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anonumos posted:What's the best ~$50 camera, assuming you don't need obscene high def or special features. I would settle for something that I turned on manually and recorded enough resolution to see car make and model. I doubt I'll really need to make out fine detail or license plate numbers. $52 USD shipped for the G1W, figure another $20 for a 32 gig class 4 card (don't bother with class 10 cards in most of these cheap cameras, they don't play nice). 1080p, auto start/stop. Pretty crappy user interface (which you'll run into on every cheap dashcam), but the video quality is excellent. I've bought 2 from this seller (one via ebay, one via amazon, but it's the same company). Unfortunately one of them has gotten a bit moody, but the seller has promised to replace it if I can arrange to ship it back (1 year warranty).
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Jan 7, 2014 06:26
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:This guy didn't really give out any 'moron' vibes... No. loving. Blinker. I wish I still had the dashcam footage from when I was testing my then-new GoPro. A bus plowing over a curb, a guy cutting in front of me with about 2 inches between bumpers, and a lady walking INTO the side of a stopped car at a intersection. All in two drives totally less than 30 min.
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Jan 7, 2014 06:29
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My new G1W showed up today. Older firmware than the first one, but functionality seems to be the same - except you can add an 8 character identifier to the video. I'll have to pull some video from it later.
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Jan 8, 2014 08:15
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First uploaded video from the new one.  Came across the legendary 3 tired mustang in the middle of a road. Driver claimed he fell asleep and nailed the curb - the tire was a few hundred feet down the road, wheel was still attached to the car, with a nice groove dug into the road by the wheel. Dude didn't seem intoxicated, didn't smell any alcohol on him. Helped him change the tire. Wish I had something more exciting  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHGzZfILTFg
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Jan 12, 2014 10:16
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Have you guys had any luck with 'parking mode' on these things? Where they look for motion and feel for disturbances when people bump your car in lots and then record the video?
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Jan 12, 2014 18:37
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some texas redneck posted:First uploaded video from the new one. You're so kind. Also my mom would never bring me anything at 2am. Hahaha
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Jan 13, 2014 11:05
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He wound up not having a lugwrench, and getting to mine requires removing the subwoofer, followed by the spare, and finally, the jack (and I'm pretty sure mine is a different size anyway, the lug nuts on my car are a bit smaller). Someone else stopped and had a lugwrench that fit the lugs on his car though.  I got the feeling he's the destroyer of cars based on the rear end chewing he was getting.  I was pretty impressed with how well the factory alloy held up - the lip was peeled off for about 6 inches, but it didn't crack, shatter, or bend, despite the tire separating (the inside sidewall was still on the wheel).I saw someone shatter an alloy on a much newer Buick doing the same thing a few weeks ago - it was pretty impressive how badly the wheel failed, especially since the tire was still attached (and inflated, but the center section of the wheel was obliterated).
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Jan 15, 2014 08:49
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The Mustang has always been one of the better put together Fords. I guess that applies to the wheels as well.
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Jan 15, 2014 09:51
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Welp, after Monday's festivities on the way home I ordered one from that Amazon link. Wish I had playback of the truck rolling towards me in slow motion. FYI, you can get a class 4 32gb sandisk for 19 with free shipping there too. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jan 15, 2014 |
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Jan 15, 2014 20:10
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Kinda wish I had one today myself. Just watched a firetruck absolutely haul rear end through an intersection. There happened to be a cop already at the intersection waiting in traffic so the only thing I can think of is that he must've been radioing them that everyone was stopped, because they didn't lift one bit even though they were coming in on the wrong side of the road.
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Jan 15, 2014 20:31
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Opensourcepirate posted:Good news about my knee; the doctor doesn't think I need surgery, so I just need to stay off of it for a super long time. Good to hear man. Knee injuries suck rear end. I dislocated my patella on new years eve 2012/2013 whist out clubbing. I popped it back myself and (not wanting to ruin anyone's new years eve) waited by myself for my friends to finish up. Limped home with the help of a friend. Took pretty much 6 months for discomfort / pain to go away. I still haven't regained the loss of touch sensation on my lower inside leg though. Anyway, content: I really wished I had a front and back camera today. Whilst going into town I encounter a driver going 60km/h on a 90km/h road. Overly cautious, except when going into a round-about where the driver nearly crashed. Then going home I had a retard riding so far up my rear end I couldn't even see the light from his headlights, and it was dark outside.
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Jan 15, 2014 21:31
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The good thing about most rear end crashes is that the vehicle that hit you is usually going to be incapacitated and about 99% of the time whoever did the ramming is at fault.
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Jan 15, 2014 22:20
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I'm considering buying the G1W. I'm assuming the mount is just some kind of standard suction-cup setup, is it simple enough to transfer the whole thing between vehicles? Sounds like it's easy enough to take the camera out, but I was thinking of using it across a few different cars. I read the mount can be quite fragile but that's about all I can find. For me, it'd be more for occasional hobby use than 24/7 recording (trackdays and event type things) so I wouldn't mind having the wire running into the cigarette lighter, but it's any kind of ordeal to transfer car-to-car it probably isn't worth it. It just sounds like it would beat my current setup of jamming a digital camera under the passenger head restraint and a lot cheaper than the dedicated track camera solutions I've seen. Also is it possible to disable the date/time stamp? (not exactly a deal-breaker)
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Jan 15, 2014 22:24
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MrOnBicycle posted:Anyway, content: I really wished I had a front and back camera today. Whilst going into town I encounter a driver going 60km/h on a 90km/h road. Overly cautious, except when going into a round-about where the driver nearly crashed. Then going home I had a retard riding so far up my rear end I couldn't even see the light from his headlights, and it was dark outside. I bought one because a good friend of mine was hit by another driver, who admitted fault at the time. Later, when it came to insurance claim time, the other guy suddenly found a handful of people who all 'witnessed' the accident and blamed my friend who got screwed over. For me, it is a fit and forget insurance policy.
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Jan 15, 2014 23:01
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Yes, it's just a suction cup. I've yet to break mine! And yes, it will date/timestamp the videos if you want it to. I've just ordered another G1W for a different car. They are so cheap that I figure it's worth it to not have to keep switching the camera out.
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Jan 15, 2014 23:21
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I'm waiting on my converter from Hong Kong, but this thread has inspired me to do the same and hardwire it.
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Jan 16, 2014 00:23
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How are you all wiring/concealing the camera? Can we get some more installation pictures? I am inept when it comes to modifying cars so I'm hesitant to buy one because I'll probably break something while installing it.
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Jan 16, 2014 01:43
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The easiest is probably to route it from near the fusebox up and around the A pillar, then towards the mirror for, well, virtually everything.. Haven't broken down and bought one yet, myself, but getting there.
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Jan 16, 2014 01:45
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Here's my gear: G1W: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FONBG1A/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2E2D732KBQJI9 Sandisk 32GB Class 4 MicroSD: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G7D0EG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QF16EH69HELL Fuse Tap (Mini Fuses, now this depends on what you drive but odds are pretty decent that it's mini unless it's an old time crusier): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AHADOC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 12V to 5V 2xUSB (I went ahead and got the two USB females variety because I wanted the ability to add a front and rear dashcam with only one fuse tap.): http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conve...=item20d69526c2 Total: ~$83 Additional Items: -Electrical Tape/Heat Shrink Wrap -Zip Ties -One 10A mini/micro/regular fuse With all this gear in hand, you can: use the fuse tap to tap the cigarette lighter fuse in your fuse box (you want to do this because then the USB plugs will become hot only when you turn the car on/will shut off when you turn the car off), insert the extra fuse into this to make the tap active. Then hook up the DC converter hot wire to the new line, taking care to make a good lasting connection. Hook the black wire up to a ground or to the frame. Then zip-tie the converter box and associated wires and run them however you best see fit.
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Jan 16, 2014 02:11
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I was lazy when wiring mine - I bought a female cigarette lighter socket and used the stock power adapter. I zip tied both of them inside the dash and tok power from the regular lighter. Cable goes up the A pillar and tucks around the headliner. I removed the screw for the sunvisor in the corner of the headliner and tucked the cable behind that as well. The camera is mounted with it's suction pad behind/next to the rear view mirror. Simple  I'd recommend checking that the cigarette lighter power is switched (it's not on one of my cars). If it's not, you can probably use the power switched line for the stereo.
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Jan 16, 2014 02:31
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I'd recommend checking that the cigarette lighter power is switched (it's not on one of my cars). If it's not, you can probably use the power switched line for the stereo. In my Honda, they run on the same fuse on the passenger side and are switched by ignition FWIW.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Kinda wish I had one today myself. Just watched a firetruck absolutely haul rear end through an intersection. There happened to be a cop already at the intersection waiting in traffic so the only thing I can think of is that he must've been radioing them that everyone was stopped, because they didn't lift one bit even though they were coming in on the wrong side of the road. Fire is usually just terrible at driving. I'm big and loud and I expect everyone to stop, gently caress what I learned in CEVO.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:55
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The cig lighter in my Jetta is always powered. I haven't had a chance to try too many cars, but it's something I associate with being a "German car thing."
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Jan 16, 2014 04:28
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My MK6 Golf is switched.
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Jan 16, 2014 04:30
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I'm not sure how big the 12V-5V adaptors typically are, but you might be able to power them much more conveniently by tapping into the map lights or similar. I do my radar detector that way, luckily it runs directly off 12V.
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Jan 16, 2014 04:43
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And for the folks who don't want to assemble one, here is a link to a hardwiring kit that fits GoPros and any other 5v dashcam that takes mini-usb. Speaking of which I need to hardwire my GoPro. Forgot it today and some rear end in a top hat ran a red that had been red for a while at full speed. While I was going through the intersection at 45 mph. I missed him by a nuthair thankfully or I don't think I'd be here.
Devyl fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 04:43
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FatCow posted:Fire is usually just terrible at driving. I'm big and loud and I expect everyone to stop, gently caress what I learned in CEVO. lucky. i had to watch a dumb video about "due regard" in mine 
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Jan 16, 2014 05:38
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ijustam posted:How are you all wiring/concealing the camera? Can we get some more installation pictures? I am inept when it comes to modifying cars so I'm hesitant to buy one because I'll probably break something while installing it.  Not really "concealed", though I do remove it whenever I park for a bit. View from driver's seat:  I have the included power cable running into the head liner - right now, it drops from the head liner where the B pillar would be (if my car had one) so that it can plug into the rear lighter socket (front is always hot, rear is switched). Wickerman posted:12V to 5V 2xUSB (I went ahead and got the two USB females variety because I wanted the ability to add a front and rear dashcam with only one fuse tap.): http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Conve...=item20d69526c2 Looks like I'll be ordering that tonight - I have a second G1W that's a little too flaky to use for the main camera, but not bad enough to bother returning. Been planning on putting it in the back window eventually.
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Jan 16, 2014 05:52
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The Subaru's lighter socket is ignition switched, so I wired a second socket on a short lead into the wiring going to it (usefully, there is a 3" section that connects between the socket and the loom, so I could remove it and do it on a table) and just plugged the adaptor which came with the camera into that, tucked behind the dash.
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Jan 16, 2014 07:55
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West SAAB Story posted:The easiest is probably to route it from near the fusebox up and around the A pillar, then towards the mirror for, well, virtually everything.. Haven't broken down and bought one yet, myself, but getting there. Remember if you have an A-pillar airbag to be sure the wire is out of the way. Sounds like a dumb comment but don't want anyone's airbag to be messed up when needed! I know when I wired up my auto-dimming mirror it had instructions how to do that.
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Jan 16, 2014 08:47
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some texas redneck posted:
I put some black electrical tape over the 'flash' window and used a Sharpie on the chrome lens ring and chrome buttons. Much harder to see now
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Jan 16, 2014 13:18
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veedubfreak posted:Welp, after Monday's festivities on the way home I ordered one from that Amazon link. Wish I had playback of the truck rolling towards me in slow motion. You aren't from Tennessee, are you?
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Jan 16, 2014 17:18
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Nope, Denver.
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Jan 16, 2014 21:47
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Here's a gem - idiot on bicycle ran the red light. Looked closer in the car but glad I had a camera - I am sure this would have come in handy if there was contact.. https://vimeo.com/84528964 (while the radio talks about all the pedestrians killed over the weekend).
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Jan 19, 2014 20:32
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I can't wait until I get my rig in. Driving in the city on a college campus means there are tons of idiots like that around to enjoy for posterity/collisions.
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Jan 19, 2014 21:13
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Mine arrived and the sd card I thought I had has vanished. And my debit card is shut off due to the Target gently caress up so I can't order a new one until the new card shows up.
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Jan 19, 2014 21:15
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Hit an Apex posted:Here's a gem - idiot on bicycle ran the red light. Looked closer in the car but glad I had a camera - I am sure this would have come in handy if there was contact.. That looks like a pretty good sized gap - I see people ride through those all the time here in San Diego. Some people just don't value their safety quite as much as the rest of us.
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Jan 20, 2014 18:55
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Thought I'd throw my opinion into the ring; I, too, have purchased a G1W from seller "estore009" on eBay; it's served me well (so far) but I thought I'd make a few comments as I've had a couple of different experiences here from the norm. *I am using mine with a Class 10 Sandisk card (this card specifically) and it's given me no problems. *The suction cup is practically useless in extreme cold (0F and below inside the car) if you are applying it to the window from being put away - but if it's already on the window, it won't come off. *The screen on mine never turns off unless the device turns off - someone said something to the effect of the screen turning off after a few minutes of recording - I wish mine did this. *The firmware is so awful that you won't bother to go through the settings. Happily, you generally won't need to - but I only was able to disable audio recording by accident. Changing the setting appeared to do nothing - I only found out that the audio was disabled after reviewing the footage. The on screen display still shows a microphone icon, confusingly. *Picture quality is superb - especially for something that costs $52. *The silver trim around the camera makes it stand out as a target for thieves. It is, however, easily removable.
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Jan 21, 2014 00:38
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How well can these cameras handle cold weather? For example, the local seven day forecast shows temperatures ranging from -20 to 5°F. I assume I'll need something that is easily detachable so I can keep it indoors when not in use, any suggestions?
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Jan 21, 2014 01:17
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sarcastx posted:*The silver trim around the camera makes it stand out as a target for thieves. It is, however, easily removable. How did you remove yours? I tried pulling/levering mine off but it wouldn't budge. I didn't bother opening it up to investigate and just painted the silver in with a Sharpie.
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Jan 21, 2014 02:30
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