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SRM posted:Baking soda yellows with time. Not if you mix in white paint and a drop of blue ink.
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Jan 16, 2014 10:40
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Fearless posted:Does anyone have some spare Epic orks or space marines that they'd be willing to part with? I have some 40k flyers that I want to base, but as a twist I want to do some forced perspective firefight dioramas with little explosions and whatnot. JerryLee posted:That's... a really cool idea and helps fix the problem of 'why is my air support lower to the ground than some medium buildings.' Granted it still relies on some degree of abstraction when you put it on the table with everything else. Using Epic (or any 6mm sci-fi figures) is a great idea! I did something similar, putting a sort-of scratchbuilt cathedral on the base of my Heldrake:  (I added some smoke effect to the building after I took this pic) but didn't think about using smaller figures, which is a great idea. I might have to do this for future flyers, but I'm wondering if 6mm is the right scale. Maybe 10mm or 15mm sci-fi models would be a better fit? The best way to fudge proportions that I've found is to look at the size of the Ectoplasma cannons on the Heldrake and Forgefiend models - it's the same exact weapon but the cannon on the Heldrake is about 3x the size of the Forgefiend's cannon...so models on the base of a flyer model ought to be around 1/3rd the size - that puts the size at about 10mm if you want to have a model like the Heldrake holding a Space Marine in its claws or whatever. For a Bomba or Valkyrie it's a bit different because they have a 'full size' model in the flyer, but you can force perspective for different purposes with various-sized models.
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Jan 16, 2014 11:19
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I want to get a lovely Tau flyer just to do that now, what a fantastic idea. e: Would it be dumb of me to start painting a model in the evening, if it was primed in the morning of the same day? I've usually given models 24-48 hours after priming, but it always seems to dry much faster than 24 hours. ijyt fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 11:44
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These days for Ice world bases I use white beach glass drybrushed with white paint and then affixed to a base with GW water effects and GF9 snow.
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Jan 16, 2014 13:18
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I messed up... Having previous experience with Orks, I washed some of my Tau mans with blue wash. Washes work great on Orks as there's lots of contours. Tau, not so much, now they just look dirty because of all the flat areas.  I'm considering giving them a dry brush to attempt to remove the dirty look. Any other suggestions? Also how do you guys do the lining, my hands are not the stablest hands on the planet.
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Jan 16, 2014 13:22
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ijyt posted:I want to get a lovely Tau flyer just to do that now, what a fantastic idea. Depends on your primer and how thick you laid it on but generally it will dry enough to be painted within 30 minutes to an hour. You'll be fine.
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Jan 16, 2014 13:27
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Iron Crowned posted:I messed up... Fire Warriors: I wash the entire model, then just paint in between the panel lines with the original colour. Suits/tanks: Just wash the crevices, and wipe away excess. A little clean up and you're on to highlighting/weathering.
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Jan 16, 2014 13:50
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JerryLee posted:That's... a really cool idea and helps fix the problem of 'why is my air support lower to the ground than some medium buildings.' Granted it still relies on some degree of abstraction when you put it on the table with everything else. True, but on the shelf they'll still look awesome.
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Jan 16, 2014 13:55
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Iron Crowned posted:I messed up... 
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Jan 16, 2014 14:26
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So, I bought the large Ex-Illis starter set and thought, hey I should just prime these on the sprues! It went nicely enough, except for one little catch. While GW's starter sets have flat mating surfaces, Ex-Illis had these curved twisting surfaces that look more like a roller-coaster layout than half a mini. So, my initial plan of just scraping the mating surface clean with a scalpel would have taken forever. Fortunately, i found the perfect tool - look in your local dollar store for a "Profesional (sic) rotary nail tool". I found the low-speed 2AA motor with the conical grinder perfect for removing the primer off the odd surfaces. for $2 you really have nothing to lose, and the crappy 500rpm motor won't melt plastic. You'll still probably scuff it up a little, but that should even out with the plastic cement.
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Jan 16, 2014 15:01
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MidnightPhoenix posted:So, I bought the large Ex-Illis starter set and thought, hey I should just prime these on the sprues! It went nicely enough, except for one little catch. While GW's starter sets have flat mating surfaces, Ex-Illis had these curved twisting surfaces that look more like a roller-coaster layout than half a mini. So, my initial plan of just scraping the mating surface clean with a scalpel would have taken forever. Fortunately, i found the perfect tool - look in your local dollar store for a "Profesional (sic) rotary nail tool". I found the low-speed 2AA motor with the conical grinder perfect for removing the primer off the odd surfaces. for $2 you really have nothing to lose, and the crappy 500rpm motor won't melt plastic. You'll still probably scuff it up a little, but that should even out with the plastic cement. In future mask these surfaces with blu-tac/poster tack and then you can skip the grinding all together. But good suggestion generally. Do what with this now?
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Jan 16, 2014 15:51
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Indolent Bastard posted:In future mask these surfaces with blu-tac/poster tack and then you can skip the grinding all together. But good suggestion generally. Has anyone tried using, like, margarine as a mask? It seems like it's be easier to paint on? It should wash off afterwards... modelling clay and i don't make good friends Indolent Bastard posted:Do what with this now? Future floor polish; a drop of that is supposed to break up the surface tension in thinned washes so they work better. Never tried it myself though. I'm told it makes the wash go where you tell it to rather than clinging to whatever it wants to and pooling there. Should make it work better with fine details, lines, etc. MidnightPhoenix fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 16:01
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MidnightPhoenix posted:Has anyone tried using, like, margarine as a mask? It seems like it's be easier to paint on? It should wash off afterwards... modelling clay and i don't make good friends Don't use modelling clay, use blu-tac / poster putty like Indolent Bastard said, they're literally no trouble whatsoever :P Failing that, there are some brush on masking fluids you can buy but never tried any myself. Lastly, margarine? Hell no, perfect way to start introducing grease to your painting surface. Seriously, blu-tac / poster putty is the way forward. You literally cannot go wrong with them.
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Jan 16, 2014 16:26
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Indolent Bastard posted:In future mask these surfaces with blu-tac/poster tack and then you can skip the grinding all together. But good suggestion generally. The picture is a video link. Basically if you're having issues with pools and tide marks, you need to reduce surface tension on your inks and/or washes. Pledge Future is an acrylic gloss medium, basically an ink without any coloring in it, which allows you to thin down your inks while reducing surface tension. It dries shiny so you need to matte varnish over it.
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Jan 16, 2014 16:36
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El Estrago Bonito posted:The picture is a video link. I wouldn't have thought it was a video link; that is cool. Thanks for the info. E: Would using pledge future shine followed by liquitex matte sealer be a good way to protect minis? If I do this I won't need mineral spirits to clean out the Testors stuff I could use in my airbrush and I will be totally free of rattle cans. Good idea? Bad idea? Should I avoid pledge future shine for sealing and just use a liquitex gloss followed by matte? For a spray booth, would a box fan with furnace filters attached to a large cardboard box work well if I have no easy way to vent outside? I will still wear a mask, but I don't want the over-spray wrecking my room, do you think the booth I'm proposing deal with that issue? Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 17:13
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http://products.scriblab.de/paintmyminis/ Anyone tried this? It looks amazing (and exactly the kindof thing I super love) but I don't have an iphone. krushgroove posted:Just be glad he didn't somehow spray anything into his ear! I am a lady goon.  Also I have turned down the psi on my airbrush. And wear ear covers.
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Jan 16, 2014 18:23
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Lethemonster posted:http://products.scriblab.de/paintmyminis/ I have; but when I did it, it was call a note book and a pencil.  It is a cool concept, but a simple solution also exists.
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Jan 16, 2014 18:43
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Painted up another one of the 1989 captains for use in my Ultramarines - I figure in games where I want to use someone cheaper than Sicarius and use that cool relic bolter, he'll be a good model:       And some detail shots:    I thought I'd try doing up a sergeant banner, but I'm not crazy about it: 
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Jan 16, 2014 19:17
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Indolent Bastard posted:I wouldn't have thought it was a video link; that is cool. Future makes a great super hard gloss varnish. Also if you spray/paint down your models with Future BEFORE washing them the wash tends to flow off the models easier which leaves less pooling. Then, since you have a gloss coat over your paint you can take a q-tip, SLIGHTLY damp with mineral spirits and clean the excess wash off instead of painting over it. My airbrush booth is a box fan sandwiched between two furnace filters and encased in a cardboard box. It works very well in combination with the mask although I'm in an apartment and not confined to a room. If you were spraying Future I'd keep windows and doors open as well. It has a kinda noxious fruity smell. Also you can just brush on Future; it's so thin it's like painting a miniature with water. You would have to try REALLY hard to screw up brushing on Future although it does tend to make certain paints and washes bleed a little.
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Jan 16, 2014 20:02
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I tried osl on this guy, can anyone tell me if it looks good? 
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Jan 16, 2014 20:52
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Iron Crowned posted:I messed up... Like others have said, if you are tinting your larger models with a wash (covering everything, not just the recesses) then add gloss varnish or a bunch of flow improver into your washes. This breaks up the surface tension to prevent streaking.
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Jan 16, 2014 21:18
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Lord Humongus posted:I tried osl on this guy, can anyone tell me if it looks good? The photos are getting washed out by the reflection from the paper towel and getting like an orange tint to them so it's a bit difficult to see where the OSL is hitting the model. It looks pretty good for a start but if the OSL reaches all the way to his face (it looks like it's hitting his face?) it should also at least hit his trigger hand and maybe some more on his chest. Iron Crowned posted:Also how do you guys do the lining, my hands are not the stablest hands on the planet. When you're ready to do the lining on Tau models hit them with a good coat of gloss varnish and let it dry. Then get an appropriate size brush with your liner wash and just start dipping it into the crevices. The gloss coat should make the wash spread via capillary action like no other. Then you can just clean up any wash overflow spots with some mineral spirits or windex and a q-tip. Look up Pin Washing on YouTube. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 22:30
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Pacheeco posted:Future makes a great super hard gloss varnish. Also if you spray/paint down your models with Future BEFORE washing them the wash tends to flow off the models easier which leaves less pooling. Then, since you have a gloss coat over your paint you can take a q-tip, SLIGHTLY damp with mineral spirits and clean the excess wash off instead of painting over it. My airbrush booth is a box fan sandwiched between two furnace filters and encased in a cardboard box. It works very well in combination with the mask although I'm in an apartment and not confined to a room. If you were spraying Future I'd keep windows and doors open as well. It has a kinda noxious fruity smell. Also you can just brush on Future; it's so thin it's like painting a miniature with water. You would have to try REALLY hard to screw up brushing on Future although it does tend to make certain paints and washes bleed a little. Awesome, thanks!
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Jan 16, 2014 22:46
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NTRabbit posted:I've been using Secret Weapon hollow bases painted glacier blue, and Vallejo water effects gel lightly sculpted and dry brushed white, to try and make it look like space elves standing on glaciers or frozen lakes, for something different. Still working on getting them just right. This sounds really cool. Post some pictures when you're finished! SRM posted:Painted up another one of the 1989 captains for use in my Ultramarines - I figure in games where I want to use someone cheaper than Sicarius and use that cool relic bolter, he'll be a good model: Old school marines looking sick as usual SRM
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Jan 16, 2014 22:57
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Indolent Bastard posted:I have; but when I did it, it was call a note book and a pencil. I do this and then promptly lose the scraps of paper I write it all down on at a later date. To keep this on topic, I've tried Vallejo's undercoat stuff tonight, waiting to see how that goes but I might be a convert from sprays to airbrush undercoating if it works well.
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Jan 17, 2014 00:33
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SRM posted:Painted up another one of the 1989 captains for use in my Ultramarines - I figure in games where I want to use someone cheaper than Sicarius and use that cool relic bolter, he'll be a good model: These own, you own, everything owns.
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Jan 17, 2014 00:59
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enri posted:I do this and then promptly lose the scraps of paper I write it all down on at a later date. Vallejo Surface Primer? It's fantastic primer. I switch between rattle can primer and VSP depending on the model. If I have to prime 20 models or prime white I'll just rattle can it because it's faster. White Surface Primer is a little thin so it becomes a chore doing multiple passes over tons of models. But if I'm priming a small batch or really high detail miniature I'll use VSP. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jan 17, 2014 |
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Jan 17, 2014 01:10
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The grey surface primer is so light grey it's practically white, and covers a lot better. I only realize its grey when I put it next to actual white primed minis.
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Jan 17, 2014 01:18
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JoshTheStampede posted:The grey surface primer is so light grey it's practically white, and covers a lot better. I only realize its grey when I put it next to actual white primed minis. That's true. I actually wish the gray was a tad bit darker.
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Jan 17, 2014 01:23
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Pacheeco posted:That's true. I actually wish the gray was a tad bit darker. You can mix in a small amount of black ink to darken it.
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Jan 17, 2014 01:38
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Lethemonster posted:http://products.scriblab.de/paintmyminis/ I had run across that before when it was in development but I guess it's out now. Looks super polished and I had some credit sitting around after a gift card, so I guess my sister got me that for Christmas too.  Seems like it might be cool to play around with when I'm not painting. I'll poke around and post my impressions.
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Jan 17, 2014 02:15
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enri posted:I do this and then promptly lose the scraps of paper I write it all down on at a later date. That's why you need a note book and not a scrap of paper.
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Jan 17, 2014 02:40
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is there a "best" place to get custom bases? Or should I just go with some secret weapon ones?
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Jan 17, 2014 02:55
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w00tmonger posted:is there a "best" place to get custom bases? Or should I just go with some secret weapon ones? Secret weapon and dragonforge are both very good. Micro art studios has some nice ones too but more expensive.
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Jan 17, 2014 02:57
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JoshTheStampede posted:Secret weapon and dragonforge are both very good. Micro art studios has some nice ones too but more expensive. I love my micro art studio bases. I've got some dragonforge ones and while they're nice, I'd hesitate to recommend them. It might just because they were an oath thread prize, but I just today got the bases I won in March. Being able to order MAS bases at the warstore is fantastic, since I know they'll get shipped promptly.
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Jan 17, 2014 03:43
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Booley posted:I love my micro art studio bases. I've got some dragonforge ones and while they're nice, I'd hesitate to recommend them. It might just because they were an oath thread prize, but I just today got the bases I won in March. Being able to order MAS bases at the warstore is fantastic, since I know they'll get shipped promptly. Yeah DragonForge is literally one guy and he's better at fulfillment than MAS.
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Jan 17, 2014 04:18
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The base of that Tomb Stalker I posted yesterday is Dragonforge, it's the only one I've ever ordered but it's really nice. He takes a week or two to cast and ship them but he actively keeps track of his progress on his website so it's not like he just leaves you hanging.
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Jan 17, 2014 04:31
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Hixson posted:This sounds really cool. Post some pictures when you're finished! Here's my best attempt to date, supposed to be War Walkers going through a glacial boulder field, and because I'm terrible at scultping I used jewelry beads   Guardian squad, looks a little boring on them, so like I said it's an ongoing process trying to reach what I have in my head. Suggestions welcome.  Looks pretty cool under blacklight though    I've got a secret weapon lava base that I'm going to put under a Falcon, the plan is to paint the surface glacier blue, the lava veins ultramarine blue, and then use the water effects to fill in the gaps over the top of the lava veins, see how that turns out. Also going to attempt to use some hollow bases for my Vypers, and slowly sculpt the water effects - and the gel is good at this - into an icy wake on the surface. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Jan 17, 2014 |
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Jan 17, 2014 04:36
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Indolent Bastard posted:That's why you need a note book and not a scrap of paper. No, your phone already has an app that covers this:  And then label all your paints with those circle stickers they sell for yardsale pricetags. Only instead of $3 you write "AMERICAN TANKS" or "LASGUNS STOCKS" or whatever you use that color for most.
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Jan 17, 2014 05:16
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Still loving your old-school UM as always, SRM, even if I'll never be a fan of Goblin Green (or square) bases despite all my other retro leanings. I think having the crazy old schemes on 'modern' realistic bases really brings them to earth just enough to look like they belong in the modern game without sacrificing the retro paintjobs on the models themselves.  But whatever floats your boat! Your guys are awesome regardless. SRM posted:I thought I'd try doing up a sergeant banner, but I'm not crazy about it:  Something like those. I'm sure you can find other similar ones online.
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Jan 17, 2014 05:28
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