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Has anyone tried out the Metabo cordless tools with 5.2 Amp Hour batteries? Where I work, we recently started dealing with Metabo directly, and while we sell far more grinders, part of the deal was to bring in some cordless tools for stock. We brought in the 5.2Ah versions, since we still provide a lot of DeWalt 18V NiCad to customers, and want to be able to offer a higher end cordless tool. Anyone have thoughts on the Metabo cordless? One temptation of my job is not buying every cool thing we get in stock(like a cordless freaking mag drill), but I've been pretty fed up with my Hitachi cordless hammer drill and I can score a pretty good deal now.
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Jan 25, 2014 19:28
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 09:27 |
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Yesterday I learned that I should be careful because apparently not all circular saws have their guide fence parallel to the blade! I thought I was just lovely at using it but when I measured, sure enough it was way off, at least 1/8 inch from the front of the blade to the back. It's the lovely store brand "Haussmann" and was a on clearance at the Canadian hardware store Rona. I guess I know why it was on clearance now! Went out and got a milwaukee today. Haven't used it but I can already tell it's a million times better. Now to see if I can correct all the cuts I made on saturday. Uggh.
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Jan 27, 2014 06:38
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Ah! Giving crappy tools a German name. . . classy!
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Jan 27, 2014 15:01
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Squibbles posted:Yesterday I learned that I should be careful because apparently not all circular saws have their guide fence parallel to the blade! I thought I was just lovely at using it but when I measured, sure enough it was way off, at least 1/8 inch from the front of the blade to the back. It's the lovely store brand "Haussmann" and was a on clearance at the Canadian hardware store Rona. I guess I know why it was on clearance now! Even on a high quality tool, you'll still want to take some time to dial in the fence.
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Jan 27, 2014 15:24
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Bad Munki posted:Even on a high quality tool, you'll still want to take some time to dial in the fence. The guide on circular saws doesn't seem to be adjustable though as far as I can tell?
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Jan 27, 2014 17:54
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Okay, maybe I'm confusing you with someone else. What kind of circular saw, precisely, are you talking about? Table saw? Miter saw? Radial arm saw? Handheld? These are all circular saws. At least in the US, most people mean the handheld variety when they say circular saw. I may be confusing with another thread, but at first I thought you were talking about a miter saw, but then you just mentioned the blade being parallel to the fence, so I assumed table saw? Unless you meant perpendicular. Even so, on a miter saw, you should be able to fine tune the angle of the blade relative to the fence by adjusting the stops.
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Jan 27, 2014 18:02
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Based on his other post, I was picturing a handheld. Which, I will admit, I have never thought to check squareness on and don't know if mine is adjustable.
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Jan 27, 2014 18:53
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Are we talking about the baseplate, then? It's true, that might not be adjustable...although I suppose one could file/lap the edge down as a one-time adjustment. Honestly never considered needing to adjust that, I guess that a) mine is close enough, and b) I freehand 80% of the stuff I use mine for, anyhow, so who cares. I guess it could be a problem if you were using a rail to make a long cut, 1/8" does seem like a lot.
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Jan 27, 2014 19:04
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Yeah a handheld circular saw is what I was talking about sorry if that was unclear.
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Jan 27, 2014 19:31
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Okay. That's what I thought at first but looking back, I can't find the other posts I was thinking of, I think I was reading something about a miter saw or a table saw in the woodworking thread at the same time. Aaaaaanyhow, yeah, I doubt the baseplate is adjustable, so if it's off by that much...you could either go the hard route and shave the plate down, OR you could just mount a thin piece of material on there and have it extend past the baseplate a little on the sides, and make THAT plate's edge parallel to the blade. That'd probably be easier, and would be reversible if you screw it up. A piece of lexan or plexi or (probably your best bet) uhmw would work great. Make your mounting holes right and you'll be able to jog it side to side as needed to square things up.
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Jan 27, 2014 19:57
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Yeah I already bought another saw so I guess I'll just keep the old one around for rough work that doesn't require accuracy or whatever. Maybe I can find a way mount it upside down as a poor man's table saw or something. I dunno.
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Jan 27, 2014 20:05
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Just make that your freehand saw or whatever, I guess.  e: Or the "loaner" saw.
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Jan 27, 2014 20:06
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Bad Munki posted:Just make that your freehand saw or whatever, I guess. Haha YES! Loan out faulty tools and nobody will come asking to borrow stuff again 
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Jan 27, 2014 20:08
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I'm missing something here. So long as the sole of the plate is fixed in registration to your straightedge, it doesn't matter how far out the axis of blade rotation is. Sure, it might not be the right width, but the cut will be straight.
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Jan 27, 2014 22:01
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If you're sliding the saw along a rail as a guide for a long, straight cut, you would only be able to have one corner of the plate against the rail if the edge of the plate isn't parallel to the blade.
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Jan 27, 2014 22:05
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When I was running the saw along my guide rail (as Bad Munki suggested) I think it wanted to pull away. My cuts were maybe 2-3 feet long and I ended up being maybe 1/4 inch off by the far end. I kept the front corner touching the straight edge but the back kept sliding out no matter what I did. I think I bruised my hand trying to keep it in line. I'll see next weekend how the new saw handles following a straight edge. oh, also the cheap saw had a lot of resistance when sliding which turned out to be from some bumps around where the screws held the plate to the rest of the saw. I filed those ridges off last night but that was well after I had done all my sawing on saturday. Oh well.
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Jan 27, 2014 22:31
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Squibbles posted:When I was running the saw along my guide rail (as Bad Munki suggested) I think it wanted to pull away. My cuts were maybe 2-3 feet long and I ended up being maybe 1/4 inch off by the far end. I kept the front corner touching the straight edge but the back kept sliding out no matter what I did. I think I bruised my hand trying to keep it in line. I'll see next weekend how the new saw handles following a straight edge. On a related note, if you still feel lots of resistance in lightweight materials, you might consider buffing the sole with a tiny bit of paste wax, similar to waxing a table saw or bandsaw table.
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Jan 28, 2014 02:39
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Guys, I think he's talking about the ripping guide... ?
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Jan 28, 2014 07:04
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Blackjack2000 posted:Guys, I think he's talking about the ripping guide... ? No not talking about that. Though the saw does have one it is rendered useless by the base plate not being aligned to the blade.
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Jan 28, 2014 07:07
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He's talking about the shoe.
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Jan 28, 2014 09:17
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Saw in question?
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Jan 28, 2014 14:17
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Blistex posted:Saw in question? Yeah similar to that but with a silver base. Or shoe I guess? I snapped a couple of pictures last night. The Saw  Front blade measurement. You can also see where those two black screws are, they had raised lips around them that was scraping along the wood causing tons of drag.  Back blade measurement.  This is the one I replaced it with on sunday: http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-639...lwaukee+6390-21 Squibbles fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Jan 28, 2014 |
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Jan 28, 2014 17:36
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tonedef131 posted:Is it tongue and groove planks? If so I think you will really want a proper flooring nailer that you hammer to drive the pneumatics. It will save you dozens of hours and inches of gaping. Sorry, didnt mean to make it seem like I was going to do the entire job with a palm nailer >_< I have a couple of Powernail pneumatic flooring nailers that i'll be using for 90" of the job. I was just thinking that the palm nailer would be nice for the last 2-3 courses when you would otherwise have to pre drill, hand nail and then counter sink each cleat. Update:I went ahead an bought a Freeman mini palm cleat nailer. Holy poo poo that thing is awesome! I started laying planks on Sunday and every time I got close to a wall i ditched the flooring nailer and used this bad boy. No pre drilling, no hammer and nail set. This think zips cleats right in like nothing! Very cool tool.
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Jan 28, 2014 23:07
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Bad Munki posted:If you're sliding the saw along a rail as a guide for a long, straight cut, you would only be able to have one corner of the plate against the rail if the edge of the plate isn't parallel to the blade. Squibbles posted:When I was running the saw along my guide rail (as Bad Munki suggested) I think it wanted to pull away. My cuts were maybe 2-3 feet long and I ended up being maybe 1/4 inch off by the far end. I kept the front corner touching the straight edge but the back kept sliding out no matter what I did. I think I bruised my hand trying to keep it in line. I'll see next weekend how the new saw handles following a straight edge. I guess I still don't understand. Even if the blade is turned 45 degrees (think |/ instead of a ||), so long as the shoe is registered on the fence of your guide and you completely move the entirety of the blade through your cut, the cut will be straight. It's how tracksaws get away with the whole tracksaw thing; the baseplate doesn't need to be square, the guide does, and you cut through the guide to define the line of cut. Same deal with how cove cuts on a saw work. The way will try to pull away something fierce when the shoe is way out and it isn't particularly safe to have a situation like that, but I took a look at my circular saws and none of them are dead parallel between blade and shoe side. My polite suggestion would be to build a better guide that registers both sides of the shoe if you'd like to keep using it to cut. Hell, you could have the thing set up as a permanent slide saw.
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Jan 29, 2014 04:45
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Tim Thomas posted:I guess I still don't understand. Even if the blade is turned 45 degrees (think |/ instead of a ||), so long as the shoe is registered on the fence of your guide and you completely move the entirety of the blade through your cut, the cut will be straight. It's how tracksaws get away with the whole tracksaw thing; the baseplate doesn't need to be square, the guide does, and you cut through the guide to define the line of cut. Same deal with how cove cuts on a saw work. Yeah I think the blade was pointed away from the guide and so it was pulling away from the straight edge. At the time I didn't realize the blade was out of parallel so I was trying my hardest to keep the shoe lined up with the guide regardless of what the blade itself was doing. I was also being kind of dumb and just had the wood on some plastic sawhorses so the force I was exerting trying to keep the shoe parallel to the guide was trying to move the sawhorses around so I was having to use one hand to hold everything down and guide the saw with my other which wasn't all that stable. Plus I think I bruised my palm a little from pushing and twisting on the saw handle so hard. Anyway, it's all kind of a moot point because as I mentioned several posts ago, I now have a new much nicer saw. I might get to try it out Thursday now instead of having to wait for the weekend due to a planned power outage at my office so I'll be spending the day at home 
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Jan 29, 2014 05:28
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Squibbles posted:I was also being kind of dumb and just had the wood on some plastic sawhorses so the force I was exerting trying to keep the shoe parallel to the guide was trying to move the sawhorses around so I was having to use one hand to hold everything down and guide the saw with my other which wasn't all that stable. Plus I think I bruised my palm a little from pushing and twisting on the saw handle so hard. This is terrifying. Please grab a helper or take a minute to rig a stable platform in a situation like that; juggling your attention and a power saw while pushing hard on multiple things is a great way to cut off both hands, your dick, and all your legs.
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Jan 29, 2014 08:08
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all of them?!?
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Jan 29, 2014 08:14
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Well I'm buying a delta JT160 6" benchtop jointer and 31-460 6" disk / 4" belt bench top sander for $200 off craigslist. Decent buy or not? I've sort of wanted both these things so when I saw them both in one listing I broke down and put in an offer...and it was accepted.
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Jan 29, 2014 16:17
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Splizwarf posted:This is terrifying. Please grab a helper or take a minute to rig a stable platform in a situation like that; juggling your attention and a power saw while pushing hard on multiple things is a great way to cut off both hands, your dick, and all your legs. I know and I'm dumb and I won't be doing that again.
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Jan 29, 2014 18:07
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asdf32 posted:Well I'm buying a delta JT160 6" benchtop jointer and 31-460 6" disk / 4" belt bench top sander for $200 off craigslist. As far as quality goes, they're pretty much the bottom end. If you don't have either, they are good starter tools. I burnt up the motor in the same little sander- so don't load it too much.
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Jan 29, 2014 19:28
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So this is...a thing: http://www.flamingsteel.com/my-vintage-tool-collection.php Someone's vintage tool collection! There's some neat stuff he has in there for sure. But there's something...off...about the whole thing. I can't quite describe it.  "As you can see I can still lay down a nice bead like I used to years ago." 
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Jan 30, 2014 06:25
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Sagebrush posted:So this is...a thing: I'm thinking this guy was being ironic. I've got to imagine, although you never can tell on the internet
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Jan 30, 2014 06:41
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Sagebrush posted:So this is...a thing: That dude needs to stop hoarding all the vintage grinders, been looking for one for ages now.
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Jan 30, 2014 07:04
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nm.
wormil fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Jan 31, 2014 |
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Jan 30, 2014 08:51
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Blistex posted:Ah! Giving crappy tools a German name. . . classy! Hey, that always worked for beers, right? Right?
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Jan 30, 2014 20:49
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kid sinister posted:Hey, that always worked for beers, right? Right? Busch, Schlitz, Pissbrau. . . yup!
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Jan 30, 2014 21:21
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Tool bragging time, I just bought 70 Vintage NOS Picard metalworking hammers from the storeroom at my local ma-and-pa hardware shop. They retail about £27 a hammer here in europe (they're still made), I paid an awful lot less than that. Vintage NOS Picard metalworking hammers by limeyrock, on Flickr This is the set I'm keeping myself, the rest will be sold at vintage auto shows to fund my beer intake this summer.
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Jan 30, 2014 23:01
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New circular saw trip report: Milwaukee saw is awesome. Probably helps that I put a nicer blade on it too I guess. Still though, cuts straight as an arrow when following a straight edge. And cut through 3 layers of 11/16" plywood with ease, no real resistance felt at all. I really suck at free hand sawing though. I can't get the back to stay straight. I line up the notch on the front with what I want to cut but as I push the saw along the back either fishtails or my natural tendancy is to pull it slightly to one side or the other which makes the blade not line up with the cut line and also makes for wavy cuts. Is there a special technique for that or it is just practice? Oh, I also noticed something interesting, on this saw the blade can be set to extend so far down that the motor housing bumps into my straight edge guide. I have to raise it up an inch or so so that they don't interfere with each other. I guess it's good that the saw has the capacity to cut that deeply if I ever encounter something that requires such a thick cut.
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Jan 31, 2014 02:32
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Squibbles posted:New circular saw trip report: What are you focusing on when you are free handing? The mark on the front? The line? Or the blade? I was taught to set the saw lined up with the mark and keep your eye on the mark at the front. Also- framers trick- use a speed square. Lay it on the piece and butt the edge of the fence up against it and rip away. This works great for, well, however large of square you have is. I don't think anyone can freehand split a 4x8 sheet of ply though- always use a good straightedge. Also, you should never have your blade more then 1/8th deeper then the piece you are cutting. Makes a world of difference in "steering" the saw.
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Jan 31, 2014 03:19
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 09:27 |
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Do you find that Milwaukee sort of heavy and cumbersome? I think I have the same model, and while it is a great saw, I shy away from it in favor of my lighter dewalt a lot.
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Jan 31, 2014 03:29
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