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Just a heads up to ratbert90, the D103 has been discontinued. I hope that the D101 works just as well!
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Jan 11, 2014 19:10
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 15:36 |
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Phone posted:Just a heads up to ratbert90, the D103 has been discontinued. I hope that the D101 works just as well! well poo poo! It should indeed! Just make sure you don't use it straight and you use it in a year or so. If its anything like d103 the fat will eventually separate. 
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Jan 12, 2014 18:32
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For those that aren't watching, I brought my hood back from the dead today: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3599316&pagenumber=4&perpage=40#post424345812
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Jan 12, 2014 18:38
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EVERYWHERE 
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I attacked the paint on our inherited 91 Corolla today. It is a beat-to-poo poo single stage white finish with scratches, chips, stains, and tons of oxidation. I used the Meg's Ultimate Compound and LC orange and yellow pads and it came out brilliant. Ran out of time and energy to apply polish and wax tonight, but I'll post some dazzling pictures later this week when it is done. I forgot to take "before" pictures, but the original owner (wife's granddad) used to "wash" the car with Windex and paper towels  , just to give you an idea of where I started from.
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Jan 13, 2014 03:09
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I know I saw something about Sonax first in this thread, so I'll post my first reactions here: I put an application on my Diamond White Deville. It went on and came off easy. I had it one time in the rain and it looked good... the water beaded and ran off like a windshield with a fresh coating of Rain-X. But I sold the Deville a week later. This weekend I put another application on my black STS after I cleaned up the paint from years of auto-wash abuse. So far, another good impression. We've got a ton of snow/salt around here and I had sides caked with salt. With just a quick rinse with warm water and a microfiber washing rag, it was ready to dry, no rinsing necessary -- all of the crap washed right off and left clear water ready to dry. I'm not sold on it yet, but first impressions are very good.
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Jan 28, 2014 23:39
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I'm about the choose the nuclear option for wheel cleaning: http://amzn.com/B005CDSH14
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Feb 2, 2014 19:13
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Bumming Your Scene posted:I'm about the choose the nuclear option for wheel cleaning: If you want to scratch the hell out of your wheels go ahead. That thing would be amazing for steelies though.
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Feb 2, 2014 19:17
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Don't care, I hate cleaning wheels and you aren't going to notice whatever scratches that can leave in the 10 times I'll use it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX35I0UMb9Q You're not using it at 3000 RPM or anything Longpig Bard fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Feb 2, 2014 |
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Feb 2, 2014 19:28
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Just use a paintbrush and a good wheelcleaner. You shouldn't really need to scrub, just "agitate".
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Feb 2, 2014 19:43
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I normally use whatever wash mitt I'm using and hit the wheels with that and some good cleaner. But my brake dust comes from track days every 1-2 months with big rear end Brembo brakes puking out high temp dust. Its a pretty good chore getting it off.
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Feb 2, 2014 19:49
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Just buy SONAX Full Effect and a large brush and save yourself the hassle.
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Feb 2, 2014 19:53
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Sounds like you would benefit from giving the wheels a full-on clean and clay, and using a wax/sealant on them.
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Feb 2, 2014 20:43
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Is there any negative side effect to leaving my detailing chemicals outside all winter? I just went out to the shed, and noticed that a lot of my chemicals (Sonax Polymer Net Shield, Optimum No-Rinse, etc) were half frozen. Is that okay?
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Feb 2, 2014 21:41
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BoyBlunder posted:half frozen. No. A lot of the emulsions/mixtures will break and separate.
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Feb 2, 2014 21:44
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InitialDave posted:Sounds like you would benefit from giving the wheels a full-on clean and clay, and using a wax/sealant on them. Track wheels are consumables. That and I'm not sure if wax/sealant is good for non-ambient temps (if the tires are 150F+, uh....). e: I get to see how I did on my 2 since it's not not salted and frozen over! Yay. (followed by a week long rain) e2: Please excuse the lovely exposure, it's a combo of the Nexus 5's camera plus me being lazy and not downloading Photoshop/Lightroom yet on this PC    First time I've seen it in natural light, it's a bit dusty and I need to clean the interior and glass pretty badly. Phone fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Feb 2, 2014 |
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Feb 2, 2014 21:45
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meatpimp posted:No. A lot of the emulsions/mixtures will break and separate. gently caress. This sucks.
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Feb 2, 2014 23:24
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BoyBlunder posted:gently caress. This sucks. Sorry, you may be able to save some of them, but you're probably going to shake some of them up and have a bubbly mix come out. Pure guess, but I'd say you'll have better luck with the aerosols than the liquid products. Nothing looks better than a clean and polished black car in the Winter. Nothing gets dirty quicker than a clean black car. Such is life.
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Feb 3, 2014 00:00
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Is there a small DA polisher option other than Griot's 3"? http://www.autogeek.net/griots-3inch-orbital-machine.html Actually, nevermind. As I was looking for that link, I saw that Autogeek has a 20% off sale going on and it takes this kit under $90. I've run into a few places where I really need a smaller polisher and this looks like it would fit the bill. Trip report after I use it. Edit: scratch that, after getting ready to check out, their "20% off" doesn't apply to either the polisher or the case of Stoners stuff that I wanted to buy. gently caress autogeek. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Feb 8, 2014 |
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Feb 8, 2014 18:09
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Don't care, I hate cleaning wheels and you aren't going to notice whatever scratches that can leave in the 10 times I'll use it. See, but this is the Detailing Thread, not the Nonspecific Thread: Let's talk about spraying cars with hoses once a year 
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Feb 8, 2014 19:30
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Scrubbing bubbles was mentioned a few pages back as an engine / engine bay cleaner. Any other suggestions? I'm leery of using something like that, given all the rubber surfaces.
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Feb 8, 2014 22:55
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Folderol posted:Scrubbing bubbles was mentioned a few pages back as an engine / engine bay cleaner. Any other suggestions? I'm leery of using something like that, given all the rubber surfaces. I just tried Zymol's Strik. It looks like just a concentrated citrus degreaser, but mixed 1:1 with water in a spray bottle, it did fantastically well on my MR2 motor (which literally hadn't been touched in more than 12 years). Sprayed it on, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then gave it a quick brush with a long, thin spoke-type brush. After a rinse, it looked nearly new. I wouldn't recommend paying their prices, but I'd think that Orange Blast or something similar would give you the same result.
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Feb 8, 2014 23:22
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Folderol posted:Scrubbing bubbles was mentioned a few pages back as an engine / engine bay cleaner. Any other suggestions? I'm leery of using something like that, given all the rubber surfaces. I think I might have been the one who mentioned it... Only use it on cars you don't care about and when you can get it cheap (like at the dollar store). Otherwise you might as well just spring for something legit since it leaves surfaces a bit shiny. I've used it on cars that I flipped for quick results.
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Feb 9, 2014 00:40
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Muc-Off works well, and Meguiar's and others do specific engine bay detailing products.
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Feb 9, 2014 17:01
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Thanks to everyone for the suggestions! I've indulged my OCD with reckless abandon in all other areas of my car, and look forward to doing the same in the engine bay.
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Feb 9, 2014 17:46
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Question for the rinseless experts: I see alot of people pre-rinsing each panel before going at it with their wash media, to help lubricate and suspend dirt. Is this best done with the rinseless wash diluted at QD strength, or can I just funnel a bit of my rinseless mix into a spray bottle? For what it's worth, I'm using Duragloss 931, with the single bucket + multiple micro towels method.
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Feb 9, 2014 20:31
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I have a bit of an odd one here, there does not seem to be much info about saving paint from the 80s that is oversprayed and looking pretty terrible.   I would really like to avoid having to repaint the entire thing, as I am already having to go that route with the rest of the ancient, cracked bodywork. Ideally, I would like to get the black dots (overspray from spraypaint the PO said) off and lessen the ugly scratch in the last picture. I'm not going for 10/10 museum quality. The decals were cleared over for the factory paint, how would that effect cleaning this up?
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Mar 4, 2014 09:36
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Try a claybar on the overspray first. My dad spray-painted a table in the garage and got a bunch of overspray on my mom's car, and I got it off with a claybar and some elbow grease. Those splotches look pretty big though, so clay may not do the trick. If clay doesn't work, try using a rubbing compound like Meguire's Ultimate Compound. If that doesn't work, the next step would be wet sanding. If that doesn't work, it's time to repaint.
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Mar 4, 2014 19:16
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bandman posted:Try a claybar on the overspray first. My dad spray-painted a table in the garage and got a bunch of overspray on my mom's car, and I got it off with a claybar and some elbow grease. Those splotches look pretty big though, so clay may not do the trick. If clay doesn't work, try using a rubbing compound like Meguire's Ultimate Compound. If that doesn't work, the next step would be wet sanding. If that doesn't work, it's time to repaint. If clay doesn't do it, I'd suggest a magic eraser before Meguiar's Ultimate. A bit more aggressive than UC, but certainly not too abrasive for something as set as that paint is. Those spots do look tough. If you know what it is, (looks like potassium stains), you may be able to find a specific chemical that removes the spots... I know potassium stains like the damned, but it can be removed with just a spray-on chemical and it simply vanishes.
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Mar 4, 2014 20:52
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What's the best way to get the smell of cigarette smoke out of an interior? It's really faint, but still somewhat present after a can of "air fresher/cleaner" stuff that you let fill the car for 10 minutes or so then air out. I've heard ozone, but what products do I use? Is it a special ozone machine I'd need to rent?
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Mar 4, 2014 21:56
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For deodorizing I usually start with one of those "air sponge" dishes in the car for a few days. It works better in the summer though. I think all the ozone deodorizing methods use a special ozone generator machine. Make sure you get the headliner if you end up doing something like a steam machine (though take care if it is steam not to ruin the headliner/glue).
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Mar 4, 2014 22:27
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I've had decent results with Ozium.
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Mar 5, 2014 01:00
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Same here, bomb a car with it, let it sit for a day closed up, and then let it sit for 16+ hours outside with all the doors open/windows rolled-down.
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Mar 5, 2014 17:09
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Is there anything I can do to get the smell of my car back? I'm coming up on the year-since and I rather miss the pervading smell of crayons (in the old car) when I'd open the door after it baked in the sun for a few hours. This one doesn't. 
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Mar 5, 2014 19:37
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West SAAB Story posted:Is there anything I can do to get the smell of my car back? I'm coming up on the year-since and I rather miss the pervading smell of crayons (in the old car) when I'd open the door after it baked in the sun for a few hours. This one doesn't. Buy a pack of crayons and stuff them under the seat or if you're feeling fancy throw them right by the cabin filter?
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Mar 5, 2014 20:09
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Bajaha posted:Buy a pack of crayons and stuff them under the seat or if you're feeling fancy throw them right by the cabin filter? Do they make crayons in metric? I won't have SAE in my automobile. 
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Mar 5, 2014 20:11
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I know most of this is in the first post, but I want someone to treat me like a baby and tell me if I'm missing anything. My 2010 car has never been detailed and it looks ok at a distance, but you can really see the swirls up close. I would rather pay someone to do this, but the people I find don't even know what a clay bar is and/or won't even tape off the windshields so wax won't get on them. So I'm going to: Dawn Wash using two bucket system and microfiber wash mitt. Clay bar Apply compound using a dual action polisher. Apply wax with the dual action polisher. Hopefully not screw up my paint. If I want to apply sealant, does it replace the wax step or is it another step entirely? If it's another step entirely, do I apply the sealant prior to the wax or after waxing? I don't have a pressure washer so I'm not getting the foam cannon suggested in the first post. I'm going to buy the Meguiar correction kit so it comes with pads for the compound and wax, but what kind of pads do I need for the sealant? Thanks in advance!
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Mar 6, 2014 23:59
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So here's an interior I did recently that I am pretty proud of: Before:  After:  2013 Dodge Journey, owned by llama farmers (I'm not kidding). Thalamus fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Mar 7, 2014 |
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Mar 7, 2014 00:50
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Thalamus posted:So here's an interior I did recently that I am pretty proud of: Very nice. Seat stay in, or come out?
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Mar 7, 2014 00:58
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That looks great, makes me feel a little better about my salt soaked interior knowing that its fixable at some point. Curious, where do you live?
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Mar 7, 2014 01:11
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meatpimp posted:Very nice. Seat stay in, or come out? Seats stayed in. I usually only take seats out when I'm working on a minivan. I live in upstate NY.
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Mar 7, 2014 01:22
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