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I hope you registered it on their website within 30 days of purchase because otherwise they are going to tell you to get hosed and then suck it when you try and use that warranty. I will never buy another ryobi cordless tool (and probably not the rest of their tools either) because of this.
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Feb 2, 2014 00:07
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I bought it today so it'll get registered Monday, I'm kinda anal about that sort of thing. I even update addresses for that poo poo. The attraction was running garden tools off the same batteries, I'd have got dewalt or makita otherwise.
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Feb 2, 2014 00:14
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Cakefool posted:The only downside I've discovered yet is that the included charger is 450mah, and I got a 4ah battery for it. How did you get a charger that puts out a tenth of the power but still fits that battery? 
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Feb 2, 2014 10:46
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Cakefool posted:I bought a ryobi one+ drill, 2 year warranty gives me some confidence. As they had 30% off I got the 4ah battery and the vacuum as well. Not tried the drill yet but the vacuum is incredible Chargers are not rated in mah. Perhaps you meant 450ma? At this current it would take about ~9hrs to output 4ah of energy to charge a fully depleted battery.
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Feb 2, 2014 11:42
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I've not been feeling my Ryobi poo poo lately. I spent like a hundred bucks on a lithium battery about a year ago and it's starting to go bad. The other day the light on it was green and I stuck it in my electric impact and it quit after about 3 rotations. The temperature was somewhat cold, but I expect more out of a hundred dollar battery. What sucks is that I have practically the entire Ryobi line so switching brands is basically out of the question. I hate the stupid power tool vendor lock-in cycle of abuse.
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Feb 2, 2014 16:58
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Is this the place for garage questions? A garage is a tool, right? I'm about to build one next to a house we're buying. What should I bear in mind? The foundation is 21x22, so it's just a bit too small for a double garage, but I never keep two cars in mine anyway. I'm thinking put in a single garage door so I can keep my Miata in there, and devote the rest of the space to workbenches, tool storage, and etc. The space already has a floor drain and water hookups, so I guess a sink is going in. I'm not going to wire it immediately, but when I do I'll add a 220v outlet for eventual welder/brewhouse applications. I want an overhead air hose and outlets on the roof trusses. Maybe an extractor fan for painting. Anything I need to allow for in the plans/construction?
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Feb 2, 2014 17:29
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Do you know where the drains etc run, would it be possible to have an inspection pit? Or build it tall enough for a lift? It may be worth running your garage wiring separately from the house if you can, mine is on its own consumer unit coming off the meter tails. I have what is effectively a "double" garage, but with a single door mounted centrally. I would recommend something similar for what you're after.
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Feb 2, 2014 17:40
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saint gerald posted:Is this the place for garage questions? A garage is a tool, right? Keep in mind it will be easier to wire before you fill it with your stuff - even if you do what I did and put surface mount conduit all over the drat place. Create a detailed plan with your benches and tool locations so you have the outlets where you need them, It'd put a duplex one every 24" across a bench for instance, but only need one every 8 feet on the other walls, or whatever code minimum is. Plan your lighting as well - a few troffers up high do OK, I'd put rows every 4 feet for full light and at this point you can add lighting low along the sides if you don't plan on putting storage against the wall. Those will help immensely with auto work and painting. As for the overhead air hose, I assume you mean cord reels, put outlets near those for power cord reels as well. If you're going *all out* - consider an S-Beam hoist and trolley. Hell, consider all overhead hoisting needs, if you have the strength in the structure you could put a few hooks for hoisting and positioning.
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Feb 2, 2014 17:48
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Floor drain and hoist would be my priorities. Don't you need fresh, virgin concrete to do acid washing? I'd do that, it's a really nice look.
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Feb 2, 2014 18:16
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Krakkles posted:What are good snap ring pliers? I thought I saw a post about them a week or two ago, but I'll be damned if I can find it now. Buy Knipex. They're well worth it. I got tired of breaking China-poo poo too. http://www.knipex.com/
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Feb 2, 2014 19:34
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Splizwarf posted:How did you get a charger that puts out a tenth of the power but still fits that battery? Because... peepsalot posted:Chargers are not rated in mah. Perhaps you meant 450ma? ...I had a brain fart.
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Feb 3, 2014 08:27
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I'm looking to buy a breaker bar, and while comparing prices I stumbled across this thing advertised to "Multiply your turning torque by up to 8 times with a single hammer blow!". I figured they weren't suggesting smashing the plastic handle to pieces so I went searching for info about it worked, and eventually (after quite a bit of digging) I found that they are sold under various brands (including SP Tools) one of which had this helpful image explaining the operation: Has anyone ever used anything like this? Are they any good?
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Feb 4, 2014 05:29
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I have no experience with that particular one but my dad has had one of these types of manual impact drivers for ages and it does work. I would still get a separate breaker bar though.
Galler fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Feb 4, 2014 |
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Feb 4, 2014 05:34
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Yeah I'd still want a long breaker for those instances where clearance is too tight or you can't swing a hammer.
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Feb 4, 2014 05:43
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mod sassinator posted:Yeah I'd still want a long breaker for those instances where clearance is too tight or you can't swing a hammer. Looks like it's fantastic for driving bolts into a workbench, though. 
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Feb 4, 2014 05:48
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Someone correct me if my math is wrong: So cranking on it and smacking it with a hammer puts out about 400 newton meters. 400 NM / 1.355 = 295 Ft-LB of torque, (or pound-foots, whatever) which is the equivalent of a 73 pound person putting their weight on a 48" breaker bar. Just weight. Not even pushing on it. 400 NM isn't a lot for a breaker. The ingersoll rand air-driven impact at my shop supposedly puts out about 475 NM (350ftlb). So I guess if you have room to swing the hammer, and have room in your toolbox for both that thing and the hammer, it's p. nifty. Unless I'm misunderstanding and the torque scales up as you put more force on the handle?
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Feb 4, 2014 05:52
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MRC48B posted:So cranking on it and smacking it with a hammer puts out about 400 newton meters. Where did you find this? There wasn't anything specific in the link about output.
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Feb 4, 2014 06:11
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I want a set of British Standard Whitworth wrenches (spanners?) to use on my old English bicycles. On ebay it seems like the best I can do is $40-45 for a set of eight which seems somewhat unreasonable to me. They won't be seeing heavy use or anything, but I hate beating up the nuts with an adjustable. The fasteners on these Raleighs are  as hell, with Whitworth heads and a non-standard 26tpi so I can't just replace them with modern hardware and need to preserve them. Surely there's a factory in China churning these wrenches out for cheap, right? Or do I just pay the premium for tools for an obsolete specialty fastener gauge with negligible demand? (One of the better brands is made in England and called King Dick which amuses me greatly but a waste of money for my purposes.) Basically, WTB: cheap Whitworth wrenches. Any ideas?
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Feb 4, 2014 06:13
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 Found here for Brits. Looks like it's a bit more expensive on your side of the Atlantic, but I suppose as Stanley's an American company it's an "import" for you, even though they're likely all made the same place in China. That thing is no loving joke, Snap-on wrenches will flex open before that thing does.
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Feb 4, 2014 06:24
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saint gerald posted:Is this the place for garage questions? A garage is a tool, right? Why not just buy a narrow double door (16') so you have the option if you eve want to park two car in there in the future. Besides if you ever sell the house 'two car garage' sells me way faster than 'one car garage'. But then again I'm bonkers when it comes to garages and after I'm done with my tandem in the basement I'll start planning for a three car in my backyard.
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Feb 4, 2014 06:37
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Fuzz1111 posted:I'm looking to buy a breaker bar, and while comparing prices I stumbled across this thing advertised to "Multiply your turning torque by up to 8 times with a single hammer blow!". I figured they weren't suggesting smashing the plastic handle to pieces so I went searching for info about it worked, and eventually (after quite a bit of digging) I found that they are sold under various brands (including SP Tools) one of which had this helpful image explaining the operation: I would also recommend a regular breaker bar and a separate manual impact driver. two forty posted:I want a set of British Standard Whitworth wrenches (spanners?) to use on my old English bicycles. On ebay it seems like the best I can do is $40-45 for a set of eight which seems somewhat unreasonable to me. They won't be seeing heavy use or anything, but I hate beating up the nuts with an adjustable. The fasteners on these Raleighs are I can get a set of cheaper ones for $20-$25. If you can wait until November, I'll bring a set to the US with me and send them in the post to you from there, which should save you a bit of money - though $40 really isn't unreasonable, that's $5 per spanner.
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Feb 4, 2014 08:21
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Splizwarf posted:
I love that wrench and use it on almost everything. If there was a fire, it would be one of the things I would grab. I wish they made smaller ones too.
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Feb 4, 2014 09:06
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two forty posted:I want a set of British Standard Whitworth wrenches (spanners?) to use on my old English bicycles. On ebay it seems like the best I can do is $40-45 for a set of eight which seems somewhat unreasonable to me. They won't be seeing heavy use or anything, but I hate beating up the nuts with an adjustable. The fasteners on these Raleighs are Ugh never mind, thought you were in the UK. Who let Whitworth out?! Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Feb 4, 2014 |
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Feb 4, 2014 17:17
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Oh, my bad. I thought you were British yourself. Herp derp.
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Feb 4, 2014 18:45
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two forty posted:I want a set of British Standard Whitworth wrenches (spanners?) to use on my old English bicycles. On ebay it seems like the best I can do is $40-45 for a set of eight which seems somewhat unreasonable to me. They won't be seeing heavy use or anything, but I hate beating up the nuts with an adjustable. The fasteners on these Raleighs are
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Feb 4, 2014 18:47
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InitialDave posted:Do you know where the drains etc run, would it be possible to have an inspection pit? Or build it tall enough for a lift? An inspection pit would be nice, but I don't really want to start tearing up the foundation. Plus it might just fill with water, I'm not sure how far down I am able to go. InitialDave posted:It may be worth running your garage wiring separately from the house if you can, mine is on its own consumer unit coming off the meter tails. Whatever building used to be on the pad may well have been wired -- there's conduit running from right by the meter on the wall of the house. I'm not actually sure where it comes out, but I'm betting it used to hold a run to a sub-panel on the building. A separate install would be nice, but if the infrastructure is there already it might be a lot cheaper to make do.
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Feb 4, 2014 20:23
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revmoo posted:Floor drain and hoist would be my priorities. I would like to plan a hoist, but I think I'd be nervous about hanging an engine off a roof truss, especially when a Harbor Freight floor-standing hoist costs just a few hundred bucks. It's not exactly fresh concrete -- it's been sitting in the elements at least since August, maybe longer. I like acid washing too, but we have a well/septic tank and I would probably worry about the runoff.
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Feb 4, 2014 20:26
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I don't know where you live, but floor drains in a garage are now a no no where I live. Something about draining your oil right into the drain makes people go bonkers. (Thanks grandpa for ruining it for the rest of us.) If you have a good conduit then pulling wire for a sub panel should be easy. I had a separate meter installed on mine and it costs me an extra 10 bucks a month to the electric company, but I didn't have to pay $2,000 to run conduit and wire, so in 16 years I get screwed 10 bucks a month.
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Feb 4, 2014 20:30
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Mat_Drinks posted:Why not just buy a narrow double door (16') so you have the option if you eve want to park two car in there in the future. Besides if you ever sell the house 'two car garage' sells me way faster than 'one car garage'. Actually resale value is an excellent point, I hadn't thought of that. What I think I might do is put a 16' door on one side, and a 9' door centered on the opposite site. There's actually quite a quantity of gravel hard-standing on the other side of the garage, and I can definitely see it being useful to drive straight through the garage to store stuff (boat, trailers, whatever) on the far side.
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Feb 4, 2014 20:31
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Elephanthead posted:I don't know where you live, but floor drains in a garage are now a no no where I live. Something about draining your oil right into the drain makes people go bonkers. (Thanks grandpa for ruining it for the rest of us.) I'm in rural WV. Environmental regulation is not really what we do. Besides, that floor drain either dumps into the ground (and subsequently my drinking water) or into my septic tank. Putting oil down there ain't going to work out well for me either way. From the few clues that are left from the original building, I think it was designed for cleaning deer or maybe taxidermy.
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Feb 4, 2014 20:34
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Have any of you ever added another port to the tank on your air compressor? I need air on the other side of my garage so I'm going to run steel hard lines. Right now the only port is the one coming off the regulator. I'd like to just leave that one as is for running low pressure air tools on that side of the garage, and then have a full port ball valve coming directly off the tank so the lines hard lines will have full volume tank pressure. I'll probably put a ceiling mounted air reel off of the lines on the way and a regulator on the other end, but for now I just need to figure out a way to get another outlet on the air receptacle. I have a 135 amp mig, but I'm not sure if there is a trick to welding those in a way that they won't explode under high pressure.
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Feb 4, 2014 20:46
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Can tee it before the regulator? Welding a pressure vessel is pretty specialized and regulated pretty much everywhere as far as I know. Not that you're going to have an inspector knocking on your garage door, but if something did happen and it was because of a weld you might have issues.
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Feb 4, 2014 21:04
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I'm looking at these three cordless drills Black and Decker LDX120C http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-LDX120C-20-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B005NNF0YU - 20v - Lithium - comes with 1 battery - 3/8" chuck - 650 RPM - 3.5 lbs - 10.6 x 3.7 x 8.5 inches - $66.26 Dewalt DC970K http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DC970K-2-18-Volt-Drill-Driver/dp/B002RLR0EY - 18v - NiCAD - comes with 2 batteries - 1/2" chuck - 0-450/0-1,500 rpm - 5.2 lbs - 14.8 x 13.5 x 4.7 inches - $89.00 PORTER-CABLE PCC606LA http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCCK600LB-20-volt-2-Inch-Lithium/dp/B009JBBF0A/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top - 20v - Lithium - comes with 1 battery - 1/2" chuck - 0-400/0-1,600 RPM) - 4.3 lbs - 8.8 x 3.7 x 9.8 inches - $89.31 I'm leaning towards the Porter-Cable. Is there any reason to get the Dewalt? Does the lower price on the Black and Decker make it worth it over the other two?
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Feb 4, 2014 21:14
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 Miata for scale. I rather like the idea of having big doors on both sides -- it'd be nice in the summer to get some airflow there, good for parties, keep an eye on the kids, blow out paint fumes or sawdust...
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Feb 4, 2014 21:18
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slidebite posted:Can tee it before the regulator? Welding a pressure vessel is pretty specialized and regulated pretty much everywhere as far as I know.
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Feb 4, 2014 21:20
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Sir Cornelius posted:Buy Knipex. Hell yes, Knipex owns. I mean, they make nothing but pliers, I feel pretty confident that they know their poo poo. Also I've used a bunch of different ones and they beat most other crap.
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Feb 4, 2014 21:27
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tonedef131 posted:Yeah it's just threaded brass running to the regulator, but it's only 1/4" which isn't ideal for very long runs. I called the local specialty welders and they said they have done it a bunch, could do it for $75. $75 is cheap enough so I'd say go for it. Is it possible the bung on the tank for the regulator actually bigger than 1/4 and just reduced? I've seen that before too. The OEMs like to save a few bucks and go to 1/4 hardware.
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Feb 4, 2014 21:40
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slidebite posted:$75 is cheap enough so I'd say go for it. Is it possible the bung on the tank for the regulator actually bigger than 1/4 and just reduced? I've seen that before too. The OEMs like to save a few bucks and go to 1/4 hardware.
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Feb 4, 2014 22:05
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Don't weld your tank and don't run full pressure air in the pipes, both are dangerous and completely unnecessary. 1/4npt will flow way more than enough for what you need. You can use whatever size pipe you want, they don't have to match size. If you're having issues with flow replace the regulator.
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Feb 4, 2014 23:05
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If the compressor is so lovely and you want rid of it, why are you planning to spend money on parts and labor for it? Spend the money on a larger compressor instead.
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Feb 4, 2014 23:58
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