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Fagtastic posted:Thanks for the advice, and sorry if my pleas for cheapness sounded like I wanted someone to do free work. Working in research I see that a lot and I don't like it one bit, it devalues everyone elses labour and is basically evil. If it takes a hundred bucks or more per coat to do this job, then that's totally what we'll pay. Seriously, what is the problem with a coverall like this?
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Feb 2, 2014 04:28
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Stultus Maximus posted:Seriously, what is the problem with a coverall like this? It fastens in the front which might make for a weak spot where the zipper is if there isn't a backer behind it. If that's where the spilled material is I don't think you'd want to be exposing it further to take off. Also that might bring it into more contact with clothes / flesh underneath?
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Feb 2, 2014 05:39
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So is this close to what you want; but you'd like a few tweaks? Or is it completely wrong? http://www.micronclean.co.uk/MobileDetails/Lancer-Laboratory-Coat-Knitted.aspx
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Feb 2, 2014 06:12
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Stultus Maximus posted:Seriously, what is the problem with a coverall like this? Scientists are too prideful not to wear their fancy white coats. Comrade Quack posted:So is this close to what you want; but you'd like a few tweaks? Or is it completely wrong? http://www.micronclean.co.uk/MobileDetails/Lancer-Laboratory-Coat-Knitted.aspx
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Feb 2, 2014 07:01
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Fagtastic posted:That is basically perfect, thanks guy. Now I just need to figure out how to buy from them.  Good luck. If you find it isn't perfect it will at least be a good starting point for somebody to draft another. This might be slightly easier http://www.fisher.co.uk/1/1/72334-laboratory-coat-ts-849-lancer-howie-style-nickel-free-studded-front-132cm.html They have a US web store but I can't find the equivalent. Comrade Quack fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Feb 2, 2014 |
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Feb 2, 2014 11:26
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You're looking for a Howie style coat, apparently. Here's something I found that appears to be marketed as a costume by the seller but is a proper lab coat: http://www.amazon.com/Dr-James-Unisex-Mandarin-Collar/dp/B009JXM30O Apparently according to wikipedia, these are much more common in the UK due to their health and safety standards.
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Feb 3, 2014 01:03
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Does anyone own/have experience with knitting machines? I've seen the cheap ones in craft stores, but they seem gimmicky. But maybe there are nice ones? What can you do with them? Anything beyond making custom sweater-knit fabrics? Worth it? Model recommendations?
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Feb 3, 2014 01:24
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Dr. Kloctopussy posted:Does anyone own/have experience with knitting machines? Get anything brother, they're really solid, you can get the older non-computery ones for a hundred bucks or less and the computery ones for 300 to 500, they both let you knot really cool patters, its just one uses mylar cards and one uses punch hole cards, we have one at london hackspace and knitting scarfs with QR codes in has become the new rage.
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Feb 4, 2014 02:12
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NancyPants posted:I don't think coveralls would be a good solution because there is still the goal of needing to get out of it quickly.  ) You'd have no worries about seams or necklines to let stuff splash down your front, and to remove it you can basically just hug yourself and pull.
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Feb 5, 2014 23:16
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Fagtastic posted:Scientists are too prideful not to wear their fancy white coats. If you need me to mule you something, I'll do it if you pm me, I just want some Jolly Ranchers sending as a thank you
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Feb 6, 2014 01:35
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My right needle on my serger comes unthreaded all the time. The machine still chains and serges, but I have two needles, I'd like to use them both. Any ideas?
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Feb 7, 2014 00:34
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Dr. Kloctopussy posted:Does anyone own/have experience with knitting machines?
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Feb 7, 2014 01:25
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i like nice words
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Bean posted:My right needle on my serger comes unthreaded all the time. The machine still chains and serges, but I have two needles, I'd like to use them both. Any ideas? Maybe your screw is stripped? See about getting just that part replaced. Sewing a bunch with fleece the last two weeks. It is kind of a nice break from cat ties. Adventure Time Ski Helmet Covers  Grumpy Cat Hat 
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Feb 7, 2014 06:49
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Anne Whateley posted:We have a knitting thread, and there tends to be some crossover between handknitting and machine knitting, so it's worth asking there. The cheap ones are definitely cheap and not worth it imo. The nicest ones allow for much more control, obviously, but there are still a bunch of handknitting techniques that I don't think they're able to do that would be important for a nice garment. If your goal is to crank out scarves, sure. If you want to make really custom-fitted sweaters, I think you'll still have to take shortcuts that would make it not worthwhile to me. Awesome, I'll a ask in there eventually. I definitely don't need a scarf maker, and probably not even a custom-knit-fabric maker. Here is a shirt I made a bit ago. First thing sewn entirely on the serger! 
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Feb 7, 2014 08:28
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Bean posted:My right needle on my serger comes unthreaded all the time. The machine still chains and serges, but I have two needles, I'd like to use them both. Any ideas? I'm about to drop my Baby Lock off at a local shop, I've tried everything I can to fix it's very lazy chaining ability after watching all I could about serger repair on youtube and I can't fix it. Best 140 bucks I'll spend on it IMO.
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Feb 7, 2014 18:16
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So I don't quite sew, I'm working with latex sheeting, which is an interesting little journey. But this is the closest I can find, until I make my own latex thread. I want to attach some hook and eye closures to latex with rivets, the same way that they're attached to the cotton tape here. Does anyone know how I can go about doing this myself?
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Feb 10, 2014 08:57
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FISHMANPET posted:So I don't quite sew, I'm working with latex sheeting, which is an interesting little journey. But this is the closest I can find, until I make my own latex thread. You might be able to do it with a small 2 part eyelets. You would have to find hooks/eyes where the attachment holes were big enough for the smallest eyelet you could find. I'd put something underneath the latex to act as support for the eyelets though. Any tension could cause the latex to stretch and the eyelets would just pop right out of the hole.
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Feb 10, 2014 22:21
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Alright, here's a dumb question from a complete sewing newbie. I recently acquired an old Kenmore 158 model (c. early 1970's). I know very little about it, including what parts it originally came with. I did find a manual online, but it didn't have a pictures of the foot I posted below. My guess is this is an invisible zipper foot. If that is the case, can I sew regular zippers with it? Or should I buy a separate regular zipper foot? The specific pattern I'm sewing a "regular" zipper on is this one: http://www.noodle-head.com/2012/06/open-wide-zippered-pouch-diy-tutorial.html Here are pics of the foot: This is what (I believe) is the top:  And here's the underside:  The white foot part is opaque plastic. Thanks!
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Feb 11, 2014 20:45
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Hey sewing experts, I have done a fair amount of patchwork piecing and sewing bags (so, mostly squares and rectangles). I am doing OK, but sewing would become much more pleasant for me if I could figure out how to stop this one problem I keep having. When I sew, I measure pieces very carefully and pin them together and start to sew, but it doesn't take long before the fabrics aren't right anymore; I think the top fabric gets pulled by the machine a bit more than the bottom fabric so I end up either with the fabrics no longer touching at the bottom, or some sort of "creases", or I pull on the top fabric some and get annoyed, or all of the above. I try to let the machine and feed dogs do the work of moving the fabric rather than getting in the way, but I'm clearly doing something wrong, or maybe there's some minor feed dog setting on the machine that isn't right? Does anyone have any advice? My machine is a Kenmore 19110 which I believe is made by Janome. It's pretty new.
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Feb 12, 2014 19:44
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Etheldreda posted:Hey sewing experts, I have done a fair amount of patchwork piecing and sewing bags (so, mostly squares and rectangles). I am doing OK, but sewing would become much more pleasant for me if I could figure out how to stop this one problem I keep having. When I sew, I measure pieces very carefully and pin them together and start to sew, but it doesn't take long before the fabrics aren't right anymore; I think the top fabric gets pulled by the machine a bit more than the bottom fabric so I end up either with the fabrics no longer touching at the bottom, or some sort of "creases", or I pull on the top fabric some and get annoyed, or all of the above. Have you tried using a walking foot to help keep it all together as you go?
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Feb 12, 2014 19:50
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I do have a walking foot, but this problem is when I'm just doing piecing or regular sewing, not quilting. I generally use the 1/4" foot if I'm piecing, or a "regular" foot if I'm sewing a bag or something.
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Feb 12, 2014 19:56
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A friend wants a Lil' Bub hat. Can't decide how to lay it out.
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Feb 12, 2014 21:18
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Etheldreda posted:Hey sewing experts, I have done a fair amount of patchwork piecing and sewing bags (so, mostly squares and rectangles). I am doing OK, but sewing would become much more pleasant for me if I could figure out how to stop this one problem I keep having. When I sew, I measure pieces very carefully and pin them together and start to sew, but it doesn't take long before the fabrics aren't right anymore; I think the top fabric gets pulled by the machine a bit more than the bottom fabric so I end up either with the fabrics no longer touching at the bottom, or some sort of "creases", or I pull on the top fabric some and get annoyed, or all of the above. This is actually the same problem I'm having, but I chalked it up to being new to sewing. Sounds like it may be something else too. It does seem no matter how carefully I cut, measure, and pin that it still happens. Drives me up a wall. I did just order a walking foot, but I've heard they can damage your machine (and I'm using an old Featherweight so I want to be especially careful with it) so I don't want to use it for everything. I also notice it happens mostly with 1/4 seams. 1/2 are much better, but it still occurs a bit.
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Feb 12, 2014 21:18
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Etheldreda posted:Hey sewing experts, I have done a fair amount of patchwork piecing and sewing bags (so, mostly squares and rectangles). I am doing OK, but sewing would become much more pleasant for me if I could figure out how to stop this one problem I keep having. When I sew, I measure pieces very carefully and pin them together and start to sew, but it doesn't take long before the fabrics aren't right anymore; I think the top fabric gets pulled by the machine a bit more than the bottom fabric so I end up either with the fabrics no longer touching at the bottom, or some sort of "creases", or I pull on the top fabric some and get annoyed, or all of the above. What type of fabric are you using? It could be simply that it stretches more in one direction that the other and your pieces aren't oriented the same direction. It could also be a really stretchy fabric or a loosely woven one that will do that no matter what. Adjusting the pressure on the foot might help (usually there is a button you push down on somewhere on top the machine). Alternately, you can try stay-stitching the pieces before sewing, gluing them together with fabric glue, or fusing the pieces with Stitch Witchery. I'm not an expert, but that's what immediately springs to mind.
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Feb 12, 2014 23:38
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I was going to suggest spray starch. Might that make the pieces stick to each other enough to keep them sliding around?
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Feb 13, 2014 03:26
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Thanks for the suggestions! I'm just piecing quilting cotton so I assume it's something I'm doing that's making the fabric get out of alignment. A light spray of adhesive does sound like a great idea when I need precision.
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Feb 13, 2014 07:40
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I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for magnetic snaps - specifically pretty weak ones. I bought some nice Dritz 3/4-inch magnetic snaps, but they're just a bit strong. I'd like something for a bag flap closure that comes apart with very little effort. Has anyone run across any like this?
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Feb 17, 2014 22:08
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Goldfinch posted:I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for magnetic snaps - specifically pretty weak ones. I bought some nice Dritz 3/4-inch magnetic snaps, but they're just a bit strong. I'd like something for a bag flap closure that comes apart with very little effort. Has anyone run across any like this? Maybe cover one of them to lessen it's strength.
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Feb 17, 2014 22:20
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Funhilde posted:Maybe cover one of them to lessen it's strength. Ooh, I like that... it could look really cool! I'll have to try it. Thanks!
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Feb 18, 2014 19:00
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Ok, as a dumb sewing novice, I have a couple questions about a pattern I'm following: http://www.noodle-head.com/2011/03/once-upon-thread-tale-of-peter-rabbit.html The pattern is really good, but like I said, dumb newbie, so: I'm at the part right after the pintucks (somehow I actually managed to make them look...ok) and I'm at the part where I need to take the exterior flap piece and and line it up with the flap lining piece. However, the exterior flap piece is about an inch wider than the lining. I know because of the pintucks there is going to be some difference, but I didn't expect this much. I assume they should be the same size, but since I'm new to this I can't quite tell, and reading the rest of the pattern isn't helping me there, because I can't quite visualize things yet. Before I trim it to match, I wanted to double-check because I also fussy-cut the exterior lining piece and not sure I have enough fabric to get the same cut again. I'd also like to add a mild magnetic closure to the bag, I guess where both magnets are covered by fabric so its not an overly strong close. Where/how the heck do I put those in? I'm guessing pretty early on, and likely right after the step I'm asking about above. Sorry for the stupid questions 
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Feb 20, 2014 22:52
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The lil bub hat is so  !
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Feb 21, 2014 02:52
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A.s.P. posted:The lil bub hat is so Thanks! Also thanks to either this thread or the plush thread for helping me sort out a little issue. I hadn't been using stabilizer or any iron on stuff to do the appliques and it was really messing me up. Sometimes it takes a mess up to sort out the right way to do something.
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Feb 21, 2014 03:24
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Rilae posted:Ok, as a dumb sewing novice, I have a couple questions about a pattern I'm following: The layer of batting between the inner and outer layers also takes up more room than you would expect at first, which is another reason the size disparity is so great.  Does that make sense? It's how it was explained to me originally.. You want the outside layer of fabric larger, and the inside smaller, and it depends on how much padding is stuck in-between. You could add the magnetic snaps anywhere before you finish stitching up the fourth side after turning it rightside-out, depending on how they're fastened (I'm assuming you'll be putting them between layers of fabric and sewing around them to secure them?). A lot of what you're bumping into is very much practise/organizational stuff, it's really easy to forget to do things at certain stages during a pattern, or get ahead of yourself or lose track, or as you're doing, balking because it doesn't logically LOOK like everything's correct until you've done it a couple times and ended up seeinng what happens when you DON'T do the "weird" stuff.. I am really good at managing to sew two entirely different edges of fabric together and then end up scratching my head at something that looks like it was made for a lumpy octopus.. 
coyo7e fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Feb 25, 2014 |
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Feb 25, 2014 00:46
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Thanks for all the advice! I emailed the pattern designer too, and in this case they said they should be the same size so I trimmed it - I think my pintucks must have just been too small, but they look ok to me. I actually just finished sewing the decorative buttons on the bag. It took me three tries to sew around the top correctly towards the end because it was awkward but I'm pretty pleased overall with how it turned out for someone who doesn't know what they're doing, heh. I definitely think you're right about the practice - now that I've made one, I see how certain steps affect the overall piece. When I make another one I'll do the magnets.
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Feb 25, 2014 04:49
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A buddy came over with a project for his back patio cushions, the Arizona sun is not kind to outdoor man made things. Always amazes how much dirt, dust mites, cactus, seeds and crud cushions accumulate  All the pieces and parts for the cushions are cut and corners are prepared. Those little velcro strips piled on top took me dam near half a day to cut, fold, add velcro and sew together  This is the second cushion i'm finishing, these are my first patio furniture things I've done, and as I hand sewed up the rear end end up it, turns out I don't really know how to tie a knot. I made a few attempts going through this knowing the T90 thread would eventually break so I wanted to quarter up the hand sewn areas so it didn't split in one feel swoop and belch out soft cushion innards. Anybody have any good tips for hand sewing? Literally stabbing at it in the dark. 
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Feb 27, 2014 07:53
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I scored this awesome vintage Hawaiian fabric at Value Village!!   The design is obviously designed to be framed in a certain way, so making something like a shirt is out of the question. What could I make with this besides pillows?
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Mar 9, 2014 21:28
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Trying to make a dog hat for a friend. Not sure if this looks right but I think it is close enough.  
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Mar 18, 2014 01:29
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uncloudy day posted:I scored this awesome vintage Hawaiian fabric at Value Village!! That'd make a beautiful lounge robe.
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Mar 18, 2014 01:48
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I recently received my first sewing machine as a birthday present. I'd like to get a book to help me learn how to sew. My problem is that I wear a size 16-18 in store-bought clothes (I know pattern sizing is different). Most of the "Learn How to Sew" books are based on doing different patterns to try different techniques. I haven't been able to find any books that specifically include plus-size patterns. Does anyone have any book suggestions that are flexible for larger sizes? Do I simply need to start learning how to size-up patterns? If so, is there a book you'd suggest?
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Mar 23, 2014 00:58
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Staryberry posted:I recently received my first sewing machine as a birthday present. I'd like to get a book to help me learn how to sew. My problem is that I wear a size 16-18 in store-bought clothes (I know pattern sizing is different). Most of the "Learn How to Sew" books are based on doing different patterns to try different techniques. I haven't been able to find any books that specifically include plus-size patterns. Does anyone have any book suggestions that are flexible for larger sizes? Do I simply need to start learning how to size-up patterns? If so, is there a book you'd suggest? Collete patterns has done some posts on her blog. http://www.coletterie.com/thoughts-on-sewing/grading-patterns-for-plus-sizes leads to a Craftsy class. http://www.craftsy.com/class/plus-size-pattern-fitting-and-design/133 Looks like the class teacher has a book that can help. In pattern size you are likely to fit into 20-22 but it really depends on your bust/waist/hip sizing because the patterns aren't always changed in a way that works for every type of curve.
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Mar 23, 2014 05:20
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