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d3rt posted:Cheers I'll pick up that guard. I want one of those even though it's small and I don't really even need another knife right now (although...of course I need another knife, I need all the knives). The best part of the whole thing? quote:Ships from and sold by COOL JAPAN TOKYO How could you not want to buy from them??
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Jan 29, 2014 22:47
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The Midniter posted:I want one of those even though it's small and I don't really even need another knife right now (although...of course I need another knife, I need all the knives). The best part of the whole thing? quote:View of the kitchen knife. true product that takes into account the ecology, a blade dimension therefore all uses in density wood fiberboard wisteria Jiro work of "material woody Play" (Sweden steel interrupt) handle portion (MDF) It becomes the. Even the description of the knife is Cool Japan Tokyo!
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Jan 29, 2014 22:49
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The Midniter posted:How could you not want to buy from them?? Delivery estimate after I purchased it is late February/Early March so that might be a good reason if you can't wait. I didn't realize a 170mm blade (6.6") was that small. The total length with handle is like 300mm. I thought this was the same one that everyone recommended from cehfsknivestogo. Bald Stalin fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jan 29, 2014 |
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Jan 29, 2014 23:27
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I (and most others, I assume) have the 240mm, which is almost 3" longer than that. Most people prefer to have a chef's knife of at least 8".
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Jan 30, 2014 02:47
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Oh right, you guysa re using the Gyuto or whatever. I'm digging the Santoku and it appears their biggest Tojiro DP Santoku on chefknives or amazon is 170mm.
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Jan 30, 2014 03:14
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I'm looking to place my first high end knife order, and I want to make sure that everything is kosher before I pull the trigger. I'm looking at the Moritaka 240mm Gyuto and a matching saya, along with some oil (is this necessary?). For sharpening gear, I was thinking Shapton Glass 500/1k/6k grit along with a stone holder and felt block (to remove any leftover burr between grit stages). Do I need a flattening block right away, or can that wait? I also saw the MrKnifeFanatic 3-stone set on CKTG, and that seems higher maintenance, so I was thinking I should start with the Shapton Glass set. Does anyone have any feedback on this? Should I buy the stones instead? Do I need a honing rod? Someone in IRC told me that my knife is hard enough that the edge won't flop over, and honing would be unnecessary. Is that the case? SymmetryrtemmyS fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Feb 5, 2014 |
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Feb 5, 2014 00:26
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SymmetryrtemmyS posted:I'm looking to place my first high end knife order, and I want to make sure that everything is kosher before I pull the trigger. I'll start with the knife. It's definitely a solid knife going off everything I hear though I have heard some people complaining about inconsistency in quality control. You don't need the fancy oil. Just get food grade mineral oil from the drug store for much less money. Also, you only really need to oil carbons if you're storing them without using them for longer than a few days (or if your environment is really humid I guess). One thing you might want to think about though is what kind of cutting style do you usually use? The Moritaka has a very flat profile which makes it great for push-cutting, chopping, and slicing but very ill-suited to rocking motions. So if you usually cut with a rocking motion right now, the Moritaka will require some adjustment from you in terms of how you cut and might feel awkward at first. Maybe you're fine with that maybe you're not, only you can say. Some other knives you might want to consider at a similar price point are the Kikuichi TKC, the Konosuke HD2, the Masakage Mizu, and Zakuri. They all have a little more "belly," that is to say curve, in their blade profile which makes them a little more versatile in terms of cutting actions you can use. The Kikuichi, Mizu, and Zakuri are all medium-ish weight knives, a touch heavier than Moritaka. The Konosuke HD2 is a little more expensive and is a bit lighter, putting it in the "laser" category. Some people love light/thin knives and others really don't. Tons of people can't say enough good things about it though and Konosuke is known for having immaculate fit and finish. On to the sharpening gear. I would indeed recommend having something to flatten with as soon as possible. The Shaptons are pretty well regarded and the splash and go nature of them is definitely convenient. For about the price of that set of stones though you could get the CKTG 8 pc sharpening set, which will include the stone holder, felt block, a magnifier, and a coarse DMT plate for flattening stones. The Suehiro Rika 5k stone included in that is very highly regarded and widely endorsed. There's also the Shapton 6 pc starter set which will have their 1k and 4k stones plus all that other gear. Generally speaking, honing rods aren't the best option for steels like Aogami Super (the one the Moritaka uses for its edge). Usually instead you'll want to either use a strop or give it a quick touch-up on your finest grit stone. Hope all that helps. Edit: I'll just say too, all you *really* need to start off sharpening are a medium stone, a fine stone, and something to flatten them with. Holders are nice but you can just put down a wet towel too. The felt pad's nice but you can also deburr on a wine cork or your fine stone. You can then pick up extras later on when you've got a little more practice under your belt. Thoht fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Feb 6, 2014 |
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Feb 6, 2014 20:16
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My Moritaka Gyuto arrived last week finally, I've used it a few times at work and God drat. It's a little heavier than I had expected, slightly heavier than the Wusthof I have, but as I much prefer weighty knives this isn't a bad thing. I agree with Thoht on the cutting style in regards to it. It is much more a slicer/straight cutter than a rocking motion type of knife, though mine is 28cm so I can get away with it easier because the blade is long enough to have a wide belly. Probably wouldn't work as well on a 24cm one.
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Feb 7, 2014 02:01
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Thoht posted:I'll start with the knife. It's definitely a solid knife going off everything I hear though I have heard some people complaining about inconsistency in quality control. You don't need the fancy oil. Just get food grade mineral oil from the drug store for much less money. Also, you only really need to oil carbons if you're storing them without using them for longer than a few days (or if your environment is really humid I guess). Very good to know regarding the oil (or lack thereof, as the case may be). Mineral oil's super cheap, so if I do end up needing it, I'll pick some of that up. I pretty much always push cut and chop, rarely do I rock (pretty much only when I need to mince garlic or herbs). I'll look at those options as well. I'd prefer something with a pretty flat blade profile, though - for the times when I do need to rock with my knife, I have my old crappy knife which will do the job. I haven't used many super-light knives so I'm not sure if that's what I'd prefer, quite frankly. Have you used the Masakage Yuki? It's Shiro #2 rather than Aogami Super and hardened nearly as much, but it seems to be a bit more laser-like. As far as sharpening, I got some tips from people in IRC and I'm instead looking at the two-sided 1k/4k King stones, a diamond flattening plate (which can also do repair work) and a stone holder. Since the absolute best stones out there are Japanese natural stones, I figure it's a better idea to learn technique on something that's more similar in terms of how to use it - that is, a muddy stone. That's also a less expensive option, allowing me to save money for when I do buy better stones. That said, with a Moritaka, people are saying that I don't need super awesome stones, just something good. Do you agree with them?
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Feb 7, 2014 04:08
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I was wondering about cleaning the rust off of a carbon steel knife, I saw this up for sale; Sabatier-K 25cm Carbon Steel Cooks Knife They've been sitting in a warehouse for 60+ years and "...the blades have some very slight carbon corrosion marks. The handles show slight signs of corrosion around rivets" Shouldn't be a problem right?
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Feb 7, 2014 04:12
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SymmetryrtemmyS posted:Very good to know regarding the oil (or lack thereof, as the case may be). Mineral oil's super cheap, so if I do end up needing it, I'll pick some of that up. Sounds like the Moritaka would be a good fit then. You could look at the Moritaka KS too and see what you think of that shape. I have not used the Yuki before, though it looks like a fun knife and definitely fits the profile you're after. I wouldn't really call it a laser; it seems to have a decently thick spine (though it's thin behind the edge) which will keep it stiff and isn't especially light. Sounds like the Masakages come with better out of the box sharpness than Moritakas, if that's something that's important to you. Its cladding is stainless vs the reactive iron the Moritaka is clad in, meaning it'll be a bit lower maintenance in terms of preventing rusting. All else being equal, aogami steels typically hold an edge longer than shirogami while shirogami is easier to sharpen and has the potential to reach a sharper edge. That being said, a lot more variables go into edge retention and ease of sharpening that can be just as, if not more, important, e.g. the smith's skill in heat treating that steel and the geometry of the edge, so don't get *too* wrapped up in agonizing over the different steels. Also, if you're just starting out with sharpening, having a knife you get to sharpen more often isn't necessarily a bad thing since you'll be getting more practice. Anywho, that King stone or the similar one from Norton will probably work just fine. I haven't used either of those stones or sharpened a Moritaka so I can't speak to their compatibility. Thoht fucked around with this message at 09:39 on Feb 7, 2014 |
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Feb 7, 2014 09:27
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Hey knife people! I'm doing some long-term traveling and my knives have gone dull. I found a hardware store that sold a sharpening stone for $5 and I jumped on it. How do I use this thing correctly? It's very light brown and somewhat smooth, the package says it's from Italy. It's about the size of a cigarette, but in a half-cylinder shape. Kinda figured out what to do via youtube, apparently I have a ceramic pocket stone. This thing looks fragile, I think I'm going to keep it wrapped in a sock when on my bike. I'm soaking it in water for a couple minutes with no other prepwork, I assume this is fine for a couple stainless pocketknives? They turned out alright, not nearly as sharp as I was expecting but a big improvement. I think I have to work on my backhand angle, it may be too high. i say swears online fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Feb 7, 2014 |
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Feb 7, 2014 18:38
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How much belly does the Tojiro DP have compared to, say, a standard service knife that hasnt been ground down too horribly? From the pictures, it seems a lot flatter...
Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Feb 8, 2014 |
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Feb 8, 2014 19:21
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Tojiros have a bit less belly than the rental blades, but you will get used to it quite quickly. I went from Messermeisters and Shuns to Togiharus, Tojiros, and other gyutos and I can still cut with a rocking motion just as well as before. You'll notice yourself naturally compensating to prevent tipping the knife.Aliquid posted:Hey knife people! I'm doing some long-term traveling and my knives have gone dull. I found a hardware store that sold a sharpening stone for $5 and I jumped on it. How do I use this thing correctly? It's very light brown and somewhat smooth, the package says it's from Italy. It's about the size of a cigarette, but in a half-cylinder shape. That will work fine for what you have. If you can find a matchbook or something like that to set your angle, it will help you tremendously. Stones that small aren't quite as easy to use as the bigger ones.
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Feb 9, 2014 04:27
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d3rt posted:Delivery estimate after I purchased it is late February/Early March so that might be a good reason if you can't wait. It arrived yesterday, it's definitely from Japan and went through customs etc. Was much faster shipping than quoted and considerably cheaper than chefknivestogo.
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Feb 9, 2014 20:30
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d3rt posted:It arrived yesterday, it's definitely from Japan and went through customs etc. Was much faster shipping than quoted and considerably cheaper than chefknivestogo. You only saved 15bux, and cktg has free 3 day shipping.
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Feb 9, 2014 21:49
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Only saved 21%  And where do you see free 3 day shipping? They use USPS and Fedex ground which, depending on where you live, can be more than 3 days.
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Feb 10, 2014 00:13
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d3rt posted:Only saved 21% USPS Priority is never more than 3 days.
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Feb 10, 2014 00:59
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:USPS Priority is never more than 3 days. Where do they specify USPS Priority?
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Feb 10, 2014 01:21
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d3rt posted:Where do they specify USPS Priority? They may not, but I've ordered 10 knives from cktg, and all were shipped priority, with tracking.
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Feb 10, 2014 01:27
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So, I'm tired of spending $5/knife to get a pretty-okay-i-guess edge. I have a Fibrox 10", a german-style cleaver from a company that doesn't seem to exist anymore (Siguma Steel?), and a couple of paring knives. Would an Idahone 12" Ceramic, and a Shapton Pro 1000x be a good starting point for maintaining my current knives, along with any future knives I might get? Is there anything better for around the same price-point (~$80 usd) or cheaper? http://store.yahoo.com/chefknivestogo/id12cerodwna.html http://store.yahoo.com/chefknivestogo/shpro10.html
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Feb 17, 2014 03:22
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Going that fine on those soft steels is probably unnecessary, I'd just get a DMT DuoSharp and call it a day. Coarse/Fine is probably good for reprofiling/sharpening soft steels. Having a coarser side will help if you ever nick an edge. e: And a link as an example.
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Feb 20, 2014 00:07
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Just picked up the Tojiro DP 8.2" from amazon. It seems as though its about 20 bucks cheaper on Amazon than it is on CKTG, plus prime shipping. Can't wait for it to show up, just thinking of something to make on Thursday when it shows up.
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Mar 19, 2014 04:12
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This Takamura gyuto has really caught my eye. It's currently out of stock so before I jump at the next chance to get one, I was wondering if anybody had any experience with it, or with any R-2 steel knife. From what I've read so far it sounds quite promising.
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Mar 19, 2014 09:48
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Does anyone have a suggestion for a decent sharpening stone w/ angle guides for like 20-40 dollars?
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Mar 24, 2014 21:49
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Massasoit posted:Does anyone have a suggestion for a decent sharpening stone w/ angle guides for like 20-40 dollars? This is pretty much the best deal I know of. If you're dead set on angle guides you can probably find a cheap set on Amazon.
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Mar 26, 2014 07:31
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is it normal for the tojiro dp gyuto to have a ~1mm gap between the wooden handle and bolster? the one i just got on amazon had a gap like this on both sides and some black epoxy(?) jaggedly filling the gap.
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Apr 4, 2014 23:59
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Don't suppose you could post a picture?
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Apr 5, 2014 00:30
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Bronze posted:is it normal for the tojiro dp gyuto to have a ~1mm gap between the wooden handle and bolster? the one i just got on amazon had a gap like this on both sides and some black epoxy(?) jaggedly filling the gap.
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Apr 5, 2014 00:31
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This was the first 240mm i got from amazon. 3 images: http://imgur.com/ME2piM3,NFuX4cC,IcpDP1M Then I ordered a second because I have prime and wanted to compare. This one has a more even gap but it's still jagged and looks unfinished. Two images: http://imgur.com/oVIo5Ke,XxEWWNu
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Apr 5, 2014 00:53
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Bronze posted:This was the first 240mm i got from amazon. 3 images: http://imgur.com/ME2piM3,NFuX4cC,IcpDP1M that looks pretty lovely. I'd be upset.
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Apr 5, 2014 11:48
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Bronze posted:is it normal for the tojiro dp gyuto to have a ~1mm gap between the wooden handle and bolster? the one i just got on amazon had a gap like this on both sides and some black epoxy(?) jaggedly filling the gap. It's kinda common with the DP series. This is why I buy from ck2g because Mark won't send those out. Honestly though, it's not that big a deal, you can fill it in yourself, and it's still an amazing knife for the price.
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Apr 5, 2014 13:24
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:It's kinda common with the DP series. This is why I buy from ck2g because Mark won't send those out. Honestly though, it's not that big a deal, you can fill it in yourself, and it's still an amazing knife for the price. And that was my follow up question: Will ck2g be a more reliable option? I'd rather just return these two and pay a little extra to Mark to get a cleaner looking knife out the box. Now that I'm ordering from ck2g are there any other standard accessories I should add to my order? That king sharpening stone?
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Apr 5, 2014 18:00
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Any suggestions of a good bang for the buck yanagiba? Tojiro brand?
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Apr 16, 2014 22:10
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I have the Tojiro suji, and I'm pretty happy with it.
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Apr 16, 2014 23:07
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.Z. posted:Any suggestions of a good bang for the buck yanagiba? Tojiro brand? That said, in actual practice I virtually never use a yanagi, because cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver cleaver.
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Apr 17, 2014 00:34
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I've got a Moritaka cleaver already :p I'm looking for a yanagi for it's main purpose, sashimi slicing, cause I'm spergy for pretty looking cuts of fish.
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Apr 17, 2014 00:47
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.Z. posted:I've got a Moritaka cleaver already :p 
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Apr 17, 2014 01:29
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My fujiwara carbon sujihiki gets drat sharp, works very well for slicing, and was quite inexpensive. The factory edge was pretty meh but I assume you know how to sharpen if you're a knife sperg. I know, it's not quite a true yanagiba, but it's like a 70/30 bevel and the backside is pretty flat so you could probably even convert it to single bevel if you really wanted to.
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Apr 17, 2014 07:34
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Got my new knifes from ck2g. They're better than what I got from amazon but the dp petty knife's tang is not smoothly flush with the handle at the butt. Still very nice. I'm keeping them. Maybe I'll ask for that to be smoothed out when I put them in for sharpening way down the line. Saga over.
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Apr 20, 2014 01:35
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