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It doesn't look like it has a CD changer/aux input. If you want to put an AUX input on it, you will probably have to get an FM modulator or directly solder the wires to the analog output of the CD player, inside the radio. Both options are crap.
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Feb 8, 2014 20:15
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KozmoNaut posted:It doesn't look like it has a CD changer/aux input. It's got an 8 pin DIN changer port on it, but I'm not sure how much work it would take to make it think it's hooked up to a Genuine Nissan CD changer. If it's anything like Delco stuff I know I'm hooped but given that it's a clarion unit it's probably not as proprietary... I don't know.
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Feb 8, 2014 23:49
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Tommychu posted:It's got an 8 pin DIN changer port on it, but I'm not sure how much work it would take to make it think it's hooked up to a Genuine Nissan CD changer. If it's anything like Delco stuff I know I'm hooped but given that it's a clarion unit it's probably not as proprietary... I don't know. This seems to be your only option. The owner of that company is on the Nissanclub forums, and apparently manufactures the adapter himself. Though to be honest, between trying to hack a Nissan OEM stereo into your Kia, and the expense of the plug, you may be better off picking up a low end aftermarket stereo with an aux input.
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Feb 9, 2014 06:47
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I might have a DOA head unit or bad wiring harness... My Crutchfield order came in, and I installed it today. Reconnected the battery, went to power up, nothing happens. Head unit and Axxess wheel control thing both are doing nothing. I plugged the factory unit back in, and it works, so I don't think it's a fuse in the car. I don't think it's the fuse in the new head unit, as the Axxess didn't work either. I emailed Crutchfield and will probably talk with them tomorrow. I'll need to pick up a multimeter or something also.
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Feb 9, 2014 07:07
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A lot of factory harnesses don't include a ground wire; is everything grounded properly?
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Feb 9, 2014 07:36
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some texas redneck posted:This seems to be your only option. The owner of that company is on the Nissanclub forums, and apparently manufactures the adapter himself. Junkyard charged me $20 for the HU, I tested it with a trailer breakaway battery and some super lovely 8 ohm bookshelf speakers yesterday and it's in good order (and it came with a copy of Ænima in it to boot, the real deal not even a burnt one woo!). My local audio shop will throw in the female pigtail to make a harness adapter for free if I buy a set of speakers (which I'd be doing anyway), and I just have to drill one hole in the Kia bracket to bolt this thing in. So even if I pick up that harness I'm still in it for roughly half of the cheapest aux-in Pioneer on the shelf. Plus I live in the 'hood and frequently forget to rip the faceplate off (all but one aftermarket stereo I've ever owned has gone missing and taken a window's structural integrity with it), and I'm just one of those guys who doesn't like aftermarket headunits (for all the usual reasons). Thanks for finding that though, I must suck at Google or something because that never came up for me.
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Feb 9, 2014 17:47
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some texas redneck posted:A lot of factory harnesses don't include a ground wire; is everything grounded properly? It's got a ground wire, so it "should" be grounded. I'll know more once I get my hands on a DMM and remember how to use it. If I am checking constant or switched 12v, I should put the leads on the hot wire and ground, correct?
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Feb 9, 2014 18:12
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Two questions about replacing the factory head unit in my '04 Civic: 1) Some of the head unit reviews I've seen have suggested I also replace my front speakers to reduce/prevent pops or other issues that can occur when upgrading equipment. Is this necessary, or just nice? 2) What is the verdict on HD Radio? Is it worth the dozen or so extra bucks to include in the new head unit? Crunchfield has got some good deals but I want to be certain before I invest. I've replaced head units in cars before so I have a vague idea of what I'm doing; I'm assuming Crunchfield will suggest/include everything I need (harnesses, ground wires, etc).
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Feb 9, 2014 20:20
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A friend of mine has put a new head unit in his '99 A3, and the rear speakers are really quiet. Apparently it's to do with how the factory rear amp setup works? He's planning on redoing everything in the near future, but for the time being, is there a way to easily improve it?
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Feb 9, 2014 20:28
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Tommychu posted:So I grabbed a Nissan/Clarion CY028 from an '01 Altima in the junkyard to replace the lovely blown factory stereo in the Kia. Is it possible to hack inputs into these things? Also looking for cheap speakers to pair with it that don't sound too lovely since the PO went apeshit with Walmart-grade gear on this thing. Crutchfield says I'm looking for 4"/6.5". What do you mean by "inputs"?
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Feb 10, 2014 22:49
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I meant aux-in, don't know why I didn't just say that. Wasn't thinking. Anyway I already ordered that cable STR linked so I'm good now.
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Feb 11, 2014 02:08
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CaseFace McGee posted:I might have a DOA head unit or bad wiring harness... Turns out my 12v switched wire was only putting out ~2.3v. The factory LCD has a separate harness from the head unit, and with a DMM I was able to find a switched wire that gets 12 volts. After tapping into that, everything works  Now I just need to figure out the best way to take apart my center console to run the USB and aux cables.
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Feb 11, 2014 02:55
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So, thanks to creative translation by Pioneer and me probably overthinking it, I'm confused on installing a backup camera. The manual says to connect the switching wire to the wire "in which the voltage changes". Does that mean that I connect the power for the camera to Positive and Negative on the reverse light and then the switching wire to positive as well, or is there another wire I should be looking for? I'm installing in a 2012 Nissan Sentra if anyone knows specifics on that.
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Feb 14, 2014 11:29
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lone77wulf posted:So, thanks to creative translation by Pioneer and me probably overthinking it, I'm confused on installing a backup camera. The manual says to connect the switching wire to the wire "in which the voltage changes". Does that mean that I connect the power for the camera to Positive and Negative on the reverse light and then the switching wire to positive as well, or is there another wire I should be looking for? I'm installing in a 2012 Nissan Sentra if anyone knows specifics on that. Head unit and camera model? Back up camera sensors will burn up if they're on all the time so connect positive to positive reverse light and ground to chassis. Pioneer usually gives you the option for positive or negative trigger, just hook it up to positive to make it easier. For your car 12V reverse can be found in the drivers kick harness going to the rear, white/black stripe.
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Feb 14, 2014 17:13
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Head unit and camera model? Thanks for the info on the wire, the head unit is an AVH-X3500BHS, and the camera is an unbranded CCD from amazon.
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Feb 14, 2014 17:25
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I'd like to swap the stock stereo in my 2014 Jeep Patriot for an Android tablet. I've swapped stereos before and I'm comfortable fabricating mounts and frames but I don't know a thing about wiring. Can I buy a series of devices that would connect the vehicle's wiring harness to a) the tablet's audio port and b) the tablet's power port? I think I'd need to install an amp somewhere in there too, right? I've read a bunch on mp3car.com but I could use some specific guidance.
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Feb 15, 2014 23:57
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So I want to get a sub for my 2003 impreza with what I think are stock speakers and a Kenwood mp5043u head unit. What's a good sub that's cheap and will give me bass that doesn't make my speakers buzz? I don't need/want a massive sub in the boot, just something to give me good bass. I'm open to having a boot sub though if it will work better, I know nothing about audio except how to wire a head unit.
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Feb 16, 2014 01:06
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So I want to get a sub for my 2003 impreza with what I think are stock speakers and a Kenwood mp5043u head unit. What's a good sub that's cheap and will give me bass that doesn't make my speakers buzz? I don't need/want a massive sub in the boot, just something to give me good bass. I'm open to having a boot sub though if it will work better, I know nothing about audio except how to wire a head unit. If you just want some nice bottom-end extension to your speakers and not some bone-shaking boom car type subwoofer, Blaupunkt makes some nice all-in-one units: This one even fits under most front seats: http://www.blaupunkt.com/en/nc/products/car-multimedia/loudspeakers/products/single/5383/ And the bigger brothers: http://www.blaupunkt.com/en/nc/products/car-multimedia/loudspeakers/products/single/5374/ http://www.blaupunkt.com/en/nc/products/car-multimedia/loudspeakers/products/single/5379/ As always, the frequency ranges are rather optimistic, but I used to have the previous model of the underseat unit in my Fiat Panda, and it delivered plenty of bass for my taste with no problems at all.
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Feb 16, 2014 09:44
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So I want to get a sub for my 2003 impreza with what I think are stock speakers and a Kenwood mp5043u head unit. What's a good sub that's cheap and will give me bass that doesn't make my speakers buzz? I don't need/want a massive sub in the boot, just something to give me good bass. I'm open to having a boot sub though if it will work better, I know nothing about audio except how to wire a head unit. I have a sub mounted in a fibreglass enclosure inside my spare wheel that i'm very happy with. The whole install is completely invisible, and it plays loud with no rattling or distortion. If you have a spacesaver spare, something like this sub and a decent amp might do. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SM8e6LPyVOx/p_130TSS2501/Pioneer-TS-SW2501S4.html#customer-reviews-tab Fibreglass is a bit of a pain to work with though, and this might be a more expensive and involved process that what you had in mind. KozmoNauts suggestion is also a good one, but in m experience they eat up a bit of foot space for the rear passenger.
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Feb 16, 2014 13:26
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I'm after getting hold of a bit of discontinued kit, specifically a Kenwood KCA-S210A CD changer switching unit. If anyone has one, knows someone who does, or sees one on their local CL etc, talk to me.
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Feb 16, 2014 19:40
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Thanks for the replies. I don't mind doing work, thats half the fun. I'll do some reading about those ones. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281263728781?ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Before I do though, the guy who posted that also put it on a facebook sales page for $50, I know you pay for what you get but is this even worth considering ignoring price? It's going to cost me $70 all up including fuel and tolls to get them. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 11:44 on Feb 17, 2014 |
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Feb 17, 2014 11:42
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Stormtrooper posted:I'd like to swap the stock stereo in my 2014 Jeep Patriot for an Android tablet. I've swapped stereos before and I'm comfortable fabricating mounts and frames but I don't know a thing about wiring. Can I buy a series of devices that would connect the vehicle's wiring harness to a) the tablet's audio port and b) the tablet's power port? I think I'd need to install an amp somewhere in there too, right? I've read a bunch on mp3car.com but I could use some specific guidance. You'll need a DC power supply for the tablet or a converter. You'll probably want to tap that in to the switched power for the existing stereo so it turns on with the key, or connect it to constant power if you're going to be pulling it out whenever you stop. For audio, you can probably get a headphone->stereo RCA adapter, that'll give you feeds that you can then patch in to an amplifier. You might be better off finding an android-based carputer though.
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Feb 17, 2014 23:46
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Thanks for the replies. I don't mind doing work, thats half the fun. I'll do some reading about those ones. Sonys xplod stuff hasn't got the best of reputations. At the other hand, for complementing stock speakers, it's probably good enough. At that point i wouldn't suggest putting a ton of effort into a fibreglass enclosure, and just go for a simple trunk mdf box. If you are interested, my box build was similar to this http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-i-c-e/38915-diy-fiberglass-spare-sub-box-56k-beware-tons-pics.html I used a full size spare, twice the fibreglass layers, this sub http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p2d2-8 and didn't cut a hole in the boot floor.
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Feb 17, 2014 23:50
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If those sony ones are crap, I'd rather not get them. I'm all for cheap stuff, as long as it's actually decent. I'll check the other subs out though. E: That rockford sub is apparently RRP 139 AUD, although their site sucks to find a shop in Australia, they are listed alphabetically by suburb and not organised by state. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Feb 18, 2014 |
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Feb 18, 2014 00:54
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I'm about to install these (http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/CompareTo.aspx?compareItems=01%7C107DB651&compareItems=01%7C107DB6501&g=400) in my '13 Impreza Wagon and am curious how important the spacers are that I've seen recommended from here (http://www.subaruaudio.net/subaru-speaker-spacers/pricing/) are.
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Feb 27, 2014 14:26
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InitialDave posted:A friend of mine has put a new head unit in his '99 A3, and the rear speakers are really quiet. Apparently it's to do with how the factory rear amp setup works? He's planning on redoing everything in the near future, but for the time being, is there a way to easily improve it? I ran into this issue installing a new headunit in my A4- for the rear sub/speakers on some models there was another amp in the boot that got a weak signal from the OEM headunit, which gave me weird sound levels on the first harness I tried, but the second one did it about fine volume wise BUT the sub in the boot isn't as distinctive as it used to be. Apparently I can rewire the harness so it uses the new headunit's subwoofer out but I'm just going to throw in an underseat sub to complement instead. As a bonus, I can sell the OEM "concert II" for more on Ebay than I paid for the replacement headunit!
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Mar 2, 2014 20:09
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I have an '03 Explorer that I'm giving a small facelift to so that I don't resent driving it for another 3 years, when my wife's car will be paid off. So, I want to get the technology upgraded to at least have BT voice calls and audio streaming from my Droid or iPod nano. The speakers in the car are decent and the stereo is pretty straightforward, so the info given in the OP was very helpful in sending me to the right site, Crutchfield, where a good 30 or so models look to fit the bill. I have a bit of an unusual question regarding Bluetooth calling, though. My hearing isn't the greatest - I use Polycom conference phones every day at work with no problem, but when the sound quality drops to that of a smartphone's speaker phone, I start having trouble. What makes me skeptical about standalone BT units is that all the ones I've experienced, even with luxury cars, have terrible quality, especially with the microphone's sensitivity. And these are built-in stock units in expensive cars, let alone after-market. Are any brands better known for the "speakerphone" part of their technology, or is the technology as a whole just really lovely? And in either case, are there any specs or part numbers to look out for that would be related? Accessories to further improve?
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Mar 3, 2014 02:19
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Fryhtaning posted:I have an '03 Explorer that I'm giving a small facelift to so that I don't resent driving it for another 3 years, when my wife's car will be paid off. So, I want to get the technology upgraded to at least have BT voice calls and audio streaming from my Droid or iPod nano. The speakers in the car are decent and the stereo is pretty straightforward, so the info given in the OP was very helpful in sending me to the right site, Crutchfield, where a good 30 or so models look to fit the bill. Well, the main challenge is dealing with road noise. A lot of factory units put the microphone up in the a-pillar which likely isn't the best location for this, plus it's probably not in direct path for voice that way unless you're turning your head in that direction. I've got a Pioneer in my car, with the microphone mounted on the steering column. It seemed to work pretty well for the most part, I only got a few complaints about people having difficulty hearing me.
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Mar 3, 2014 02:39
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MikeyTsi posted:Well, the main challenge is dealing with road noise. A lot of factory units put the microphone up in the a-pillar which likely isn't the best location for this, plus it's probably not in direct path for voice that way unless you're turning your head in that direction. I saw that external mic on one of the Alpines, and on the Pioneer after you mentioned it, so that should be a good solution. Somehow, this:  ... isn't big enough for a double din, either. I was hoping a GPS unit would possibly fit, but looks like I'll be sticking with the regular unit unless I want to shell out $700 for a slide-out screen.
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Mar 3, 2014 14:57
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Fryhtaning posted:I saw that external mic on one of the Alpines, and on the Pioneer after you mentioned it, so that should be a good solution. http://www.metraonline.com/part/95-5026 I usually mount microphones above the rearview mirror.
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Mar 3, 2014 18:38
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Hey guys, I'm not really a car guy and am posting on behalf of my dad, so bear with me if I say anything incredibly dumb. So my dad just bought a 2008 GMC Sierra 1500, and wants me to put a new head unit in it. I'm a bit antsy about this, as I am really not well versed on car stuff. He went to a shop and they quoted him $700 bucks to purchase and install one, which sounded kinda ridiculous. He is looking to spend around 300 on the head unit itself, and the only thing he expressly mentioned wanting is the ability to connect his phones(iPhone 5c and Samsung galaxy s2) up to it via bluetooth. So what do I need to buy? From what I've read I need a head unit, a cable kit to hook up to the speakers and stuff, and maybe a dash kit to make it match the rest of the car. Is that it? If y'all need more info I'll provide it as fast as possible.
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Mar 8, 2014 01:37
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That sounds about right unless that year GM requires a special unit to replace the chime that is embedded in the stock head unit. Check out Crutchfield: it will at least tell you the parts you need or you can pay for the installation guide. http://www.crutchfield.com/
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Mar 8, 2014 01:48
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So lets see... Pioneer AVH X4500bt OR JVC KW V20BT Axxess AX ADBOX1 factory integration thingy Speaking wiring harness Metra 95 3305 Double din dash kit
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Mar 8, 2014 02:07
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That integration box is more than I expected it to be, but I guess that truck has a digital amp that the box integrates with. Stupid GM and their integrating important crap into the head unit.
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Mar 8, 2014 04:01
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Uthor posted:Stupid GM and their integrating important crap into the head unit. They do that on purpose, you know - so they can convince you to buy their "Premium" system at the initial sale. If you decide to upgrade after that, it is going to cost you a couple grand for factory options, or you lose a few hundred trying to retain features you like to have. They could give a poo poo after the initial sale is over.
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Mar 8, 2014 04:08
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Uthor posted:That integration box is more than I expected it to be, but I guess that truck has a digital amp that the box integrates with. PAC Audio products might have a better solution, crutchfield is pretty expensive in general. What module you need depends on whether the truck has Onstar, Bose, etc. If he just wants to play music via bluetooth there are add on modules that will integrate with the factory head unit. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 00:44
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:PAC Audio products might have a better solution, crutchfield is pretty expensive in general. What module you need depends on whether the truck has Onstar, Bose, etc. It does have onstar, I'll go check real quick to see if it has a bose system. :edit: Nope, no bose. WindmillSlayer fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 00:46
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What about xmradio and steering wheel controls? I also edited my last post.
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Mar 9, 2014 00:54
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Ok, yeah, he actually dropped that he wanted it to do a bit more than I expected, so yes to steering wheel and ideally hands free calling people. And this addendum to my last parts list: Clicks into the factory integration thing to the new head unit Steering wheel control inegration XM he doesn't really care about. He had it in his old car and only used his phone for music. At this point I'm going for as much functionality as possible as he tends to simplify what he wants. Edit: Annnd he just asked about a backup camera. Sorry guys, I should have asked him more so I could have included it in my first post. Backup camera WindmillSlayer fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 01:02
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Fryhtaning posted:I saw that external mic on one of the Alpines, and on the Pioneer after you mentioned it, so that should be a good solution. I have an 03 Explorer with a pioneer double din and bluetooth. The double din fit perfectly, I have the microphone mounted on the a pillar and can talk with the window down at normal town speeds, but above 30mph the person I'm talking to can't here me unless I roll the window up. Installation was one of the easiest ones I've done.
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Mar 10, 2014 01:18
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