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Kraftwerk posted:What do you need to do to get a car at invoice or below? Almost every dealer Ive been to is completely transparent about the profit they make on their cars. I paid for a report on the cars I was interested in to get invoice pricing and the margins are fairly slim. Volkswagen in particular refuses to negotiate at all. The others want to split their "profit" 50/50. Again I suppose if Im buying a 2014 Mazda3 there is no chance I will get a discount. Despite this I cant even touch invoice on a Ford Focus even with Ford's X-Plan. Are you all secretly family members of auto industry employees? Where you live makes a difference. If you're in a major metro area with lots of competition, you get better deals. I currently live in San Antonio. I can easily shop most major dealers in Texas. DFW is 5 hours away, Houston 3, Austin 1. There's 6...maybe 7 Ford dealers in/around town, and that expands to over 40 if I go statewide. If you live in Topeka,KS where there is only 1 Ford dealership, not so much competition. I grew up in Topeka, and it's very common for folks there to go to Kansas City to get a good deal on a car. Different dealers have different business models as well. I remember when I lived in Phoenix, I bought my SRT-4 from Avondale Dodge. I walked in and there was no negotiation, this is the invoice price, that's what we charge, do you want the car? I haven't lived there in a long time but at the time they were a high volume dealer that made money on the back end of transactions through manufacturer bonuses, making a profit off your trade in, and financing kickbacks. Dealers can sell cars at invoice pricing all day and still make a tidy sum off the back end of the deal. The Ford dealer I bought my last 3 cars from does a pretty flat invoice + 500 pricing on most of their cars and they treat me really really well, so I buy from them.
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Feb 13, 2014 18:05
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Kraftwerk posted:What do you need to do to get a car at invoice or below? Almost every dealer Ive been to is completely transparent about the profit they make on their cars. I paid for a report on the cars I was interested in to get invoice pricing and the margins are fairly slim. Volkswagen in particular refuses to negotiate at all. The others want to split their "profit" 50/50. Again I suppose if Im buying a 2014 Mazda3 there is no chance I will get a discount. Despite this I cant even touch invoice on a Ford Focus even with Ford's X-Plan. Are you all secretly family members of auto industry employees? You'll need to shop around a bit. Look at the dealers who have the lowest prices in your area (Autotrader can be good for this, and Craigslist too). E-mail them or call them, and counter-offer with something below invoice, if the price isn't already. Do this to a few dealers, and use the fact you're shopping around as leverage (i.e. the dealer across town said they'd sell it for $18,000, but I'd like $17,000. If you do that you'll earn my business). Emphasize that you're ready to buy as soon as you find what you're looking for. Ultimately the deal you get will depends on competition in your area and how well a car is selling. Rather than just saying "I want invoice!" try Edmund's True Market Value tool. Remember that it's an average, so if you aim lower than what they say, you're getting a "good deal." But it's possible that deal will be way above invoice if your area has low competition and the car's inventory is low.
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Feb 13, 2014 18:42
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Ultimate Mango posted:The amazing thing is if you can get someone who is fully transparent about he back end stuff and can include it in the deal. I have one dealer willing to lower the price more based on financing knowing full well I won't carry the loan full term (but pay it back the third month). The sales lizard gets his commission regardless; he doesn't give a poo poo if the dealership makes anything on the financing end. Anyway, to the other guy, shop around! Especially if you're doing a trade-in, some places are way more generous than others, and some places will offer you scrap pricing. I got way more than my piece of poo poo nearly dead Camry was worth because the dealer was running some dumb program apeing Cash for Clunkers (yes, several years after that was even a thing) that only like one guy at the dealership even knew what I was talking about.
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Feb 13, 2014 20:57
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Kraftwerk posted:What do you need to do to get a car at invoice or below? Almost every dealer Ive been to is completely transparent about the profit they make on their cars. I paid for a report on the cars I was interested in to get invoice pricing and the margins are fairly slim. Volkswagen in particular refuses to negotiate at all. The others want to split their "profit" 50/50. Again I suppose if Im buying a 2014 Mazda3 there is no chance I will get a discount. Despite this I cant even touch invoice on a Ford Focus even with Ford's X-Plan. Are you all secretly family members of auto industry employees? A lot of it comes down to what they're going to make indirectly from the manufacturer for incentives or other things you don't care about but that they desperately do. If selling one more car that day makes them like $50,000 for hitting their numbers this month then congratulations because they'll practically pay you to buy it. A salesman might be close to some accelerator or bonus and will push to get you a good deal so you'll buy the car he get his big check. Or things like if the car has sat on the lot for whatever number of days are long enough for them to move it over to the "just get it out of here" category. You really can't control or know those things so doing what everyone is suggesting and hitting multiple dealers and being patient are your best bet.
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Feb 13, 2014 21:12
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Update on my fun negotiations. Looks like the guy who went $1200 below invoice wants to lowball the trade in. Finally got to the GM at the local dealer and he was willing to do invoice minus current incentives (1500) but gave a MUCH better offer to take my existing car off my hands (better than I thought I'd get). I think the place I bought my last few cars is $800 below invoice and maybe a little less on the trade. So all the deals end up looking pretty similar in the end. I really wanted to like the $1200 below invoice guy because that price is great but something seems 'off' like the deal is too good and then it changes when the car gets in. Of course I am probably looked at funny because I am negotiating every $100 on a $75k car.
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Feb 13, 2014 21:58
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So im looking for C6 corvettes. I want a 2008 Z51 with at least 2LT package. I found one with in a days drive, 2008, Z51, 3LT, glass roof, corsa exhaust, 55 k miles with 1 year left and 5k miles on gm warranty and he wants $27k. Should I be all over this? It seems below market price to me.
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Feb 13, 2014 22:39
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Ultimate Mango posted:Update on my fun negotiations. Looks like the guy who went $1200 below invoice wants to lowball the trade in. Finally got to the GM at the local dealer and he was willing to do invoice minus current incentives (1500) but gave a MUCH better offer to take my existing car off my hands (better than I thought I'd get). Take the invoice -$1200 and then sell your old car private-party?
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Feb 13, 2014 23:21
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My wife wants to get rid of her 2008 Mazda6 and get into an SUV/CUV. I guess it's not big enough for her and the kid (I can attest to that...my 6'4" frame does not fit into the front seat when the car seat is behind me) and all the baby gear, plus she wants to get something with AWD since she's considered an essential employee and needs to get to work. I found a 2010 Nissan Murano with 31,000 miles on it for around $17k which seems like a really good deal for something that size with AWD. The problem is I know gently caress all about Nissan. When I go to check this thing out, what in specific should I be checking out? I know the normal things like brakes, tires, fluids at normal levels...but is there anything specific to Nissan (and especially the Murano) that tends to have problems? Also, I notice it has a CVT, how reliable are those things? I've heard they suck to drive but I don't know much about reliability. Given everything checks out, is the Murano a decent buy at that price? Other cars I've been cross shopping are the Ford Edge, Chevy Equinox (and promptly rejected that one...), Dodge Journey (also nixed), and Toyota Venza. I haven't seen anything with this low mileage for that sort of price though which instantly makes me a bit suspect.
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Feb 14, 2014 00:52
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Leperflesh posted:Take the invoice -$1200 and then sell your old car private-party? 2008 750Li, 75k miles, not exactly a hot car that flies off lots or craigslist. They tend to sit around and not move. Private party I'd be lucky to get $22k, and then hope the buyer can just pay cash. This is one car where doing the trade in deal and letting it eventually go to auction might be beneficial. I was hoping to order a car today but I ended up asking for a non standard option and they emailed BMW Germany to see if they would allow it to be built.
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Feb 14, 2014 01:52
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Swing it by Carmax, see what they'll give you.
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Feb 14, 2014 22:18
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I've been window shopping cpo Mustangs, challengers, and genesis coupes, and I noticed on my local dodge dealer site that they have a new 2014 Chrysler 200 limited super s package with every possible option for like 23k. Are they really that bad? I watched a review on YouTube and the only complaint was a somewhat soft suspension, but the Super s package is supposed to have a better suspension. Has anyone test driven or owned one of these?
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Feb 14, 2014 23:10
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If you are looking at the cars you listed, do not buy that 200. I get them as rentals all the time. The car is actually a decent value if you want power with the V6, but the interior is a cheap, dreary and rather noisy place. There's no really compelling reason to buy one other than price and the V6.
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Feb 14, 2014 23:50
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BJA posted:I've been window shopping cpo Mustangs, challengers, and genesis coupes, and I noticed on my local dodge dealer site that they have a new 2014 Chrysler 200 limited super s package with every possible option for like 23k. The 200 is a good car in the same way almost every car sold today is a good car. It's reasonably comfortable, it's not that loud, it has enough power, it won't kill you. If it was the only car left on the planet you could make do. But it's not the only car left on the planet, is it? You'd also be very unwise to buy a loaded new car known for high depreciation. Buying any new car is shoveling some money out of a window, but buying a loaded 200? My god. Tragic Otter fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Feb 15, 2014 |
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Feb 15, 2014 04:38
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The depreciation is already priced into that car. MSRP is probably 29K on that car and they sell for much less as he found out. In would expect a fairly normal depreciation curve relative to the actual 23K purchase price. Compared to MSRP it'll be ridiculous though. I still wouldn't buy one though, not with the 2015 on the horizon. The 2015 is supposed to be a much better vehicle.
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Feb 15, 2014 05:07
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I heard somewhere recently that the ATP for the 200 is now higher than the ATP for the Camry. The existence of the convertible probably has something to do with it too but the V6 is the real big selling point, as the 4 cyl 200 really isn't a very compelling buy unless it was like $12k or something, and most people shopping in this class buy 4 cyls. The best buy at the bottom of this range is probably the 2.5l Passat. The Passat also has a horrible drivetrain that seems to excel at converting the most amount of gas into the least amount of fun but it's a pretty decent car in most other respects, and you can get it with a manual. If only the VR6 was being discounted the same way.  Proposed Budget: 27,000 - 50,000 AED (~$7k - $14k USD) if the right deal came along. New or Used: Almost certainly used. Body Style: Carry 4 people and some luggage. i.e.probably not Miatas or single cab trucks. How will you be using the car?: Getting around town Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: Mostly no with the exception of better crash safety. What aspects are most important to you: Reliability, crash safety, needs to be easily disposable in about 1 year. My dad just started a job in Abu Dhabi, capital of the United Arab Emirates, for a year and possibly more. Car prices are roughly not too different from the US, gas is $1.75/gal. Traffic can be quite aggressive so that's why safety is important. There are some models that are not found in the US. For our purposes, there are some Chinese cars, very small European market Hyundais/Kias, Peugeots/Citrones, some BOF Japanese SUVs like the old Mitsubishi Montero that were kept in production for way longer than they were sold in the US, and older Mitsubishi cars like the Lancer and Galant. You can also get a Chevy Lumina, which is a rebadged LHD Holden Commodore. Right now looking through dubizzle.com, which is sort of the local craigslist/autotrader equivalent, the majority of cars available in our price range are variants of the last generation ~2009-10 Nissan Tiida/Versa, followed by Corollas, Civics, and the such. Right now it looks like the Tiida is the best way to go, since the market is quite deep and their are pretty reliable. Unfortunately I am aware that they are rather poor at crash safety, so that kind of bugs me. We may spend a bit more and step it up to a Civic, Mazda3 or Ford Focus(these would be the C1 platform European market Focus if that matters)just on that basis alone, or maybe even an older, higher mileage Altima or Camry. However all these are available in somewhat lower numbers. Option 2: I noticed that the new Chevy Sonic/Aveo is starting to hit the market and coming down into this price range. It seems pretty ideal on paper however it seems that actually finding one is still hard, and resale-ability is a bit iffy. Option 3: An older, higher mileage Volvo. The XC90 was somewhat interesting, the safety is impressive and since the thing is going on 10 years old, every year looks the same! the third row seats will be nice too. However the reliability, especially at 5+ years, concerns me. I would not be looking at the V8s at all, but the turbo I5/I6 versions don't look very reliable to me either. Being from 2003 it also doesn't have things like a backup camera that you would sort of expect on a "luxury" 3 row truck. Maybe someone with more firsthand experience can chime in. A newer model XC60 is also under consideration, but obviously will be quite a bit more money, Parents actually like it quite a bit and can put down the cash if they can be assured that they will be able to get the money back on resale, but that's difficult to say. Option 4: A last gen Subaru Forester. Similar situation to the XC60, also quite rare on the ground and with uncertain resale-ability. I previously posted whole novellas about how I hate this car but really, Subarus are so rare that it's pretty much the only choice if you want one. Rust and poor gas mileage are basically non-issues here. Considered but found to be mostly uncompelling unless someone has a good reason: - Most Euro stuff: The cheap European stuff isn't actually that popular or common here, and..well, I guess I'm not convinced that a Golf or Passat is better than a Japanese equivalent. - CUVs/Softroaders: Mostly agnostic about the actual utility of these, plus it seems like there is a rather large jump up in price as soon as you go from, say, an Accord to a CRV. - "real" trucks and SUVs: No need for any of the capabilities and no reason to have to deal with the additional maintenance needs of huge tires, 4WD, etc. Also see above. - American stuff: Not common enough on the ground, most of the stuff that is are BOF Ford Explorers and such that aren't very interesting or good. There is little advantage in pricing vs Japanese stuff, compared to the US. Never the less if we do come across a good deal for a Cruze or Focus we would certainly be interested.
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Feb 15, 2014 06:05
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Seems to me that since you're only going to use it for a year and change, then try to flip it fast, you should just go for the most popular car you can find, treat it nice, and try to get most of your money back out of it. As long as it does the job, resale is the main factor. So basically find a dirt common Toyota/Honda model in good shape and make sure the filters don't get jammed with sand. Fortunately, safety tends to correlate with such cars.
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Feb 15, 2014 15:37
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Unfortunately the Nissan Tiida is by far the most common car on the ground, and it's....not great at crashes.
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Feb 15, 2014 16:02
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Hi there, I'm trying to get a car too. I'm in the area of San Antonio. Proposed Budget: 2000$ to 4000$ New or Used: Used. Body Style: sedan. How will you be using the car?: Commuting to work (20mn-ish) and going around town. Sometimes some longer trips. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: Hell no. I want something to bring me from a point A to a point B safely. What aspects are most important to you: Reliability, cost, crash safety. What I've seen so far: 1999 Honda accord with 202k miles, for 2700$. Since it's manual gearbox (which is fine for me)I'm wondering: should I be wary of them? As in, since people in the U.S are mostly not used to them, it could have been treated roughly... How do I ensure the gearbox is in good shape? Should I be wary of old cars with relatively low mileage? (like a Corolla from 1996 with only 147k).
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Feb 15, 2014 17:14
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I'd keep the Honda and put a bit of money into it. Why would you downgrade to an older Corolla for simply lower mileage? At that price point you're getting something bound to have some issues.
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Feb 15, 2014 18:04
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Zokalwe posted:Since it's manual gearbox (which is fine for me)I'm wondering: should I be wary of them? As in, since people in the U.S are mostly not used to them, it could have been treated roughly... How do I ensure the gearbox is in good shape? As long as it wasn't a rental (and who has ever heard of a rental manual Civic?), this shouldn't really be a problem. I mean, people who don't know how to drive manuals don't buy manuals. Even if it was used to teach a few people how, I'd be more worried about the clutch. That's a wear item, and will need to be replaced at some point, regardless.
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Feb 15, 2014 18:18
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Throatwarbler posted:Unfortunately the Nissan Tiida is by far the most common car on the ground, and it's....not great at crashes. What about last gen accords and camrys? If the used market is about the same, they should be about that price, have easy flippability, and they crash well. For smaller cars, remember the corolla didn't crash well until like 2010 or so. nm fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Feb 15, 2014 |
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Feb 15, 2014 19:31
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Grumpwagon posted:As long as it wasn't a rental (and who has ever heard of a rental manual Civic?), this shouldn't really be a problem. I mean, people who don't know how to drive manuals don't buy manuals. Even if it was used to teach a few people how, I'd be more worried about the clutch. That's a wear item, and will need to be replaced at some point, regardless. It's a Accord so the rental thing is not impossible I guess. How do I know the state of the clutch if it has not been replaced "recently"? Does a worn down clutch makes itself felt when test driving? nm posted:For smaller cars, remember the corolla didn't crash well until like 2010 or so. Good to know. Given how many there are in my area, I think I'm going to focus on finding a nice Honda Accord.
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Feb 15, 2014 20:34
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Nobody* rents manual transmission vehicles. so don't worry about that. If you really are worried, pull the title records. Even if it needs a clutch, if you end up replacing that, you've replaced one of the more expensive wear items on the car, and it won't need another for another 100K+ *exotics and highly specialty rental car places excepted, but none of those would rent Accords.
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Feb 17, 2014 14:04
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Seriously, I've never seen a manual for rent at a regular rental place. Hell, rental Accords at all are pretty rare (rental companies love to get domestics at whored-out prices). The flip side of manuals being unusual here is that not many people will buy them if they don't know what they're doing. It still happens, but most people who have no business with a stick will move on to the next car with a slushbox instead.
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Feb 17, 2014 17:37
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Can I get opinions on this car judging from the CList: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4334966157.html edit: How cheap of a price would this need to be to be a good deal: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ctd/4334455842.html ditto for this: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ctd/4334450322.html
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Feb 17, 2014 21:09
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an skeleton posted:Can I get opinions on this car judging from the CList: quote:Mileage: 185000 No poo poo.
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Feb 17, 2014 21:36
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IRQ posted:No poo poo. Hahahahhaha. Yeah but what if I somehow got it for like, $2000. Would that be worth considering?
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Feb 17, 2014 21:39
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Is 15k for a 2010 civic with 20k miles a ripoff?
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Feb 17, 2014 23:04
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I currently contract at Amazon through Aerotek, and as an Aerotek employee I get access to the following car discount programs: - Ford Motor Company X-Plan (discount on Ford/Lincoln/Mercury new vehicles) - GM Supplier Discount pricing - Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge Preferred Pricing (1% below Factory Invoice on select new models plus a $75 program fee, good in addition to most consumer incentives) - VW Partner Purchase Program (Dealer Invoice pricing on new VW vehicles, not good for Audi) I am (if I don't gently caress things up) likely to get a full time position with Amazon in the 50-70k a year range, and it would involve moving to Los Angeles from Seattle. I need a car if I'm going to live there, since I don't want to only rely on my motorcycle 100% of the time. I do too many martial arts and too much stunts training to rely on having a body that can safely ride my motorcycle on any given day. That and I like A/C if I'm going to be in traffic in So-cal. Could I get some guidance on which of these programs makes the most sense and which would get me the best deal? Right now the two front-runners in my mind are the 2014 Cherokee 4x4 Sport and the Golf TDI (if I fit in it, I'm 6'6" tall and might not fit in there very well). I haven't done much research on what my options are past those two models though, since I don't even know which discount program might be best for me.
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Feb 17, 2014 23:30
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Waroduce posted:Is 15k for a 2010 civic with 20k miles a ripoff? Dude there are literal websites that you can use for this purpose try this one: edmunds.com
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Feb 18, 2014 01:09
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Dude there are literal websites that you can use for this purpose try this one: edmunds.com thanks you and sorry!
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Feb 18, 2014 02:17
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DJ_Ferret posted:I currently contract at Amazon through Aerotek, and as an Aerotek employee I get access to the following car discount programs: Well those are completely different cars. Typically those programs can get you a decent deal but you can, almost always, get a better deal negotiating. What are you looking for in a car? I have a Golf TDI but the MPG is geared to highway driving so you get that benefit in traffic.
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Feb 18, 2014 03:01
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They are completely different cars that I like for completely different reasons. I tend to do a lot of driving up mountains and out into the backcountry when it's available, and having a car I definitively fit in and could tow a trailer with my motorcycle on it is very tempting. Hence the Cherokee. I would however be living in LA and doing a LOT of freeway commuting, hence the desire for a fuel efficient compact. Really I'm just curious about whether the programs are worth my time. I've been told by one source that it's not enough of a deal to counter the depreciation a new car faces just by driving off the lot, and another source is encouraging me to go new so that I can have warranty coverage and such benefits.
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Feb 18, 2014 04:34
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X-Post from AI stupid question thread: So the 2004 Honda Civic LX that I drove today (private party from Craigslist) had a pretty big dent in the front bumper (claimed his wife hit a dryer in the driveway) and also a smaller dent/scratch on the back and also has some bad alignment going on + scratches on the windshield and the rest of the car. The car drove nice though, the interior is leather and well kept, and the guy only put 7k miles on it since buying it in 2012 (it went from roughly 118k to 125k miles). He claimed to be buying a bigger car since his wife just had a kid, but you hear that all the time so who knows--the guy seemed quite "trustworthy," was patient and not at all pushy. I'm going to take it to a shop to get checked out which he was cool with. Are the dents/alignment huge red flags or can we chalk that up to 125k miles of wear and tear? His asking price is 5500, but I think with the cosmetic damage + alignment and fact that the KBB price seems to be closer to 4800 (and Edmund's lower than that) tell me that I should shoot for closer to 4000. Is offering up 4000 disrespectful or a reasonable starting place assuming no other major problems? Also a more general question, what are the things I need to do before forking over ~4-5k dollars? When is the car "mine?"
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Feb 18, 2014 06:53
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an skeleton posted:X-Post from AI stupid question thread: Specifically in Texas there is a sales form (Form 130-U) where you fill out, then the blue owners certificate is signed and dated with an odometer reading at the time of sale. You take that to the local county tax assessor, and you tell them what you paid for it, and they either tax you 6.25% on what you paid for it, or 6.25% on the Standard Presumptive Value (SPV), whichever gives them more money.
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Feb 18, 2014 18:23
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nm posted:What about last gen accords and camrys? If the used market is about the same, they should be about that price, have easy flippability, and they crash well. The used market is also similar in that Accords command a rather steep premium over even other Japanese cars, so I'm kind of turned off by it. The last gen Mazda6 and Mazda3 are very appealing though, being in fairly plentiful supply while also being a bit cheaper. Looking hard at a ~2010 Mazda3 wit the smiling grill. The Mazda6s here are made in Japan, and the wagon variant looks pretty tasty too. They're in a rental Mazda2 right now and it seems OK although they find the AC to be a bit weak(important for the climate). Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Feb 19, 2014 |
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Feb 19, 2014 01:38
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Proposed Budget: 15k New or Used: Used Body Style: SUV How will you be using the car?: Daily Driver, however, the wife will take it on a 300 miles communte monthly Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Not really What aspects are most important to you? 4WD (northeast, so this is a big one), MPG, reliability (military, so when I get deployed, I'd rather the wife NOT have to pay a shop...) Living in upstate NY, and we just got rid of a Bravada. With it's lovely loose steering and around 15 MPG, we are looking to upgrade. I really am looking for an SUV with 4WD that gets decent gas mileage and has a good reliability track record. Google only gets you so far, and I am looking for actual owner recommendations for a vehicle.
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Feb 19, 2014 03:35
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CRV/Forester/Rav4/Escape/Tribute in something like that order.
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Feb 19, 2014 03:43
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One thing to keep in mind is that the current crop of generational refreshes on the compact crossover market made some fairly significant mileage gains: The only tricky thing is that at least on the CR-V, used values are loving stupid-high.
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Feb 19, 2014 04:12
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Proposed Budget: ~AU$15000 New or Used: Realistically, probably used to get what I want Body Style: Hatch, Coupe, Small sedan How will you be using the car?: Driving mostly on weekends, usually not far. What aspects are most important to you?: Looking for something with some power, but probably 4cyl. Preferably RWD. And not super expensive to service. I know the above might be near impossible but i'll give a broader idea of what i'm trying to find here: I currently drive a 1999 MX-5 (miata) and my girlfriend has a 2003 Peugeot 206. The aim is to sell both, which should net us around $15k AUD, and buy a single, semi reasonable but still fun car. I'm going to have to make a consolation and put up with automatic so something with semi-auto would be awesome too. Again, perhaps impossible. I was briefly looking at 05 RX-8's but read too many horror stories... The only other thing I have briefly considered is an ~07 Golf GTI, but i'm a little put off by the fwd. I love the way my mx5 drives now (decent power, light, rwd, handling, etc) and don't want to stray too far while getting sensible...
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Feb 19, 2014 05:36
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