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foolish_fool
Jul 22, 2010
I tried out the bouldering section of the local gym today and whoa it feels so much harder than normal top-rope stuff. Probably mostly that the skillset is different and I've been pretty sporadic recently, but even the easiest grades are quite a challenge.

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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

ConspicuousEvil posted:

Are you an Albuquerque local? Not often I find Albuquerque goons, let alone those that climb.

Unfortunately not. He is traveling to San Luis Obispo, in California to put on this clinic.

modig
Aug 20, 2002

foolish_fool posted:

I tried out the bouldering section of the local gym today and whoa it feels so much harder than normal top-rope stuff. Probably mostly that the skillset is different and I've been pretty sporadic recently, but even the easiest grades are quite a challenge.

Thats expected. Boulder grades start harder and go up faster. Bouldering grades are often based on the single hardest move, whereas roped grades usually are based on some overall sense of difficulty combining hard moves and endurance (ie the single hardest move is a lot easier than the grade suggests). So its very easy to get into moves way harder than anything you've done when you start bouldering.

4R7 THi3F
Aug 8, 2005

oh... so you ARE sick....

modig posted:

Thats expected. Boulder grades start harder and go up faster. Bouldering grades are often based on the single hardest move, whereas roped grades usually are based on some overall sense of difficulty combining hard moves and endurance (ie the single hardest move is a lot easier than the grade suggests). So its very easy to get into moves way harder than anything you've done when you start bouldering.

Hmmm, so going from bouldering to top roping is actually going to be very easy? I've been incredibly intimidated by top roping, because it looks harder.

How much experienc do you need before you can start to do rock climbing outdoors? Before my gym closed, I was able to solve most V1's within 1 or 2 tries and I was getting to the point where I could even do a few V2s. Is that adequate for outdoors rockclimbing?

Papercut posted:

Is this Cliffs? I thought it closed because they didn't actually have building permits for the work and opened without getting a building inspection?

They've given about a million and one reasons for not having their permit yet, and one of them was because a light switch doesn't match the floor plan. Lol. They were a great gym, and I didn't feel like I wasn't safe, but the whole thing stinks on both ends since the DoB is dragging its heels to do approvals and The Cliffs seems a bit disorganized, and I don't think that they have been completely transparent about what's going on.

4R7 THi3F fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Feb 6, 2014

Baldbeard
Mar 26, 2011

4R7 THi3F posted:

Hmmm, so going from bouldering to top roping is actually going to be very easy? I've been incredibly intimidated by top roping, because it looks harder.

How much experienc do you need before you can start to do rock climbing outdoors? Before my gym closed, I was able to solve most V1's within 1 or 2 tries and I was getting to the point where I could even do a few V2s. Is that adequate for outdoors rockclimbing?


They've given about a million and one reasons for not having their permit yet, and one of them was because a light switch doesn't match the floor plan. Lol. They were a great gym, and I didn't feel like I wasn't safe, but the whole thing stinks on both ends since the DoB is dragging its heels to do approvals and The Cliffs seems a bit disorganized, and I don't think that they have been completely transparent about what's going on.

Bouldering and top roping emphasize different aspects of climbing technique. Bouldering routes will generally require a lot of power and more frequently use dynamic movements and more technical moves. Top Roping has a big emphasis on energy management and moving efficiently, and of course endurance since the routes are so much longer. It's pretty hard to evenly compare grades since they use different systems to represent difficulty.

When you say outdoor rockclimbing, are you talking about top roping or bouldering? Outdoor bouldering routes are generally much harder than indoors, and doubly so when you account for the safety difference when toping-out.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Start climbing outside now. It is way more fun and usually free. Even if you struggle no big deal.

Chromatic Penguin
Aug 20, 2013

Let me see your face.
Maggie Daley Park in Chicago is being renovated to include climbing areas, anyone in the Chicago area excited for this?
http://www.epusa.com/news/CHICAGO_USA_MAGGIE_DALEY_PARK_IS_BRINGING_CLIMBING_TO_EVERYONE!.html

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!
Hey all! I started climbing last summer and only just thought to check if there's a climbing thread since I haven't ventured into YLLS before.

My beginner Evolv Defys were getting worn out (the right shoe has a little hole by the big toe) so I finally upgraded and got Scarpa Vapor Vs a couple of months back. It's amazing what a difference the more defined toes make. And while the heel isn't really anything special, it's leagues better than that of the Defy. Best purchase I've made in a while! :)

Pictures from when I first got them, but they're nice and broken in now.



Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
The Vapor V is what I climb in, too. :respek:
But I've had four people try them on at the shop this week, and they all ended up liking Tenaya's Ra better. v:shobon:v

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!
Truth be told I liked the La Sportiva Miuras that I tried on a hair better than the Vapors, but the Vapors were on clearance and the difference was marginal anyway. I'm crediting the upgrade with finally managing to finish a couple of V3s ;)

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx
I've been wearing my sportiva Futuras for more than a year at this point and they are awesome. I'm thinking of getting a pair of sportiva Testarossas as an outdoor shoe for hard thin stuff, but for everything I've been doing the Futuras have been great. Anyone else climbing in these?

Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011
How do you find the lack of edge on the Futuras?

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





Finally getting lead climb certified at my gym next week so that's exciting. Now I just need to find a consistent climbing partner. Bouldering is fun, but I'm getting frustrated at my lack of progress. Granted I've only been climbing for about 2 months now. How fast did it take y'all to start climbing 5.10/V3s consistently?

Walked
Apr 14, 2003

SaltLick posted:

Finally getting lead climb certified at my gym next week so that's exciting. Now I just need to find a consistent climbing partner. Bouldering is fun, but I'm getting frustrated at my lack of progress. Granted I've only been climbing for about 2 months now. How fast did it take y'all to start climbing 5.10/V3s consistently?

I dont want to be cliche, but it doesnt matter how quickly it came to someone else. Focus on your own progress.

I found the transition from 5.9 to 5.10 far far more tedious for me than the transition from 5.10 to 5.11+

Probably due to technique being more focal and being able to just muscle through becomes more difficult. Stop stressing about your progress relative to others and just focus on being better and having fun.


edit: Leading will help immensely.

Baldbeard
Mar 26, 2011

SaltLick posted:

Finally getting lead climb certified at my gym next week so that's exciting. Now I just need to find a consistent climbing partner. Bouldering is fun, but I'm getting frustrated at my lack of progress. Granted I've only been climbing for about 2 months now. How fast did it take y'all to start climbing 5.10/V3s consistently?

Bouldering can be really frustrating like that. Well, I guess climbing in general. I often have to step back and remind myself I climb for fun, not for numerical progression.

I think it took me about 2 or 3 months to get V3s down pretty well. But it took another 6 months after that to get 4s. Another number of months until my first 5 etc....Every single time I moved up, the next grade felt 100% impossible no way in gently caress can't even start them.

Just keep at it, you will get stronger as long as you are climbing hard, and your technique will improve as long as you are watching better climbers and experimenting with their movements.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Baldbeard posted:

Bouldering can be really frustrating like that. Well, I guess climbing in general. I often have to step back and remind myself I climb for fun, not for numerical progression.

I think it took me about 2 or 3 months to get V3s down pretty well. But it took another 6 months after that to get 4s. Another number of months until my first 5 etc....Every single time I moved up, the next grade felt 100% impossible no way in fucthe party is late in the eveningk can't even start them.

Just keep at it, you will get stronger as long as you are climbing hard, and your technique will improve as long as you are watching better climbers and experimenting with their movements.

Exactly this. Numerical progression is cool because you see how you're getting better, but it's much more fun if you just use it to measure progress instead of being frustrated when you're "stuck" on a certain grade.

Now that I'm climbing a lot more I've moved up through V2s into V3s within 4 months or so, but it really is such an individual thing.

e: oops double quoted

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx

Dumbdog posted:

How do you find the lack of edge on the Futuras?

Honestly its been so long since I've climbed in an edged shoe with any downturn I don't really remember how it feels, but I have no complaints with the lack of edge. I think it took me a few sessions to get used to it, but now I love them. I feel like I can pivot my foot on holds to match body position changes better as the contact patch of the shoe isn't so location specific. I never feel like I'm going to move my heel too far one direction and pivot right off the edge of the shoe, instead I think I can feel them getting less secure until they skate off instead of just suddenly blowing. They edge well, they smear great, especially for a down turned shoe, I think they are really comfortable for how tight I sized them, and I can't tell if they have any significant wear on them after a year. As there isn't an edge to round off, they don't change how they climb as they get more worn in, which is nice. I'd recommend them to anyone who is climbing v4/5 or 5.11 or above. I think new climbers would be fine in them, I just think their main benefit is for someone who uses their feet a lot an can appreciate the change.

Baldbeard
Mar 26, 2011


I wear these too. I was afraid the arch would be too 'aggressive' for me, but I think they are super comfortable and seem to be holing up really well as far as durability goes.
The only downside I've found is that hard heel-hooks, the kind where you are leading with your heel or have your heel higher than your head, hurt like hell. I don't know if it's just my feet or what, but ouchies.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Baldbeard posted:

I wear these too. I was afraid the arch would be too 'aggressive' for me, but I think they are super comfortable and seem to be holing up really well as far as durability goes.
The only downside I've found is that hard heel-hooks, the kind where you are leading with your heel or have your heel higher than your head, hurt like hell. I don't know if it's just my feet or what, but ouchies.

Yeah I agree. Like I said earlier, the heel isn't fantastic but it's serviceable. And I love the aggressiveness of the curve after using my old Evolv Defys for so long (again, good beginner shoes but they do limit what you can do after a certain point).

Baldbeard
Mar 26, 2011

What do you folks (who boulder) usually do for a warmup before you tackle main projects? I have a bad habit of barely warming up at all, but I've heard some people will do 5 or 6+ easy routes before jumping into it. After finally recovering from a pulley injury, I feel like I need to warm up a lot more these days.

Tarnien
Jul 4, 2003
Champion of the World!!!
I usually do 3-4 0's, then 1 of each grade up to whatever I'm working on

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
30 minutes of v0-3 climbing slow resting a few minutes in between.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Tarnien posted:

I usually do 3-4 0's, then 1 of each grade up to whatever I'm working on

I do this as well.

Baldbeard
Mar 26, 2011

Yeah I'm dumb. I definitely need to warm up more. Ill try the 0s and then going up the grades tomorrow.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Tarnien posted:

I usually do 3-4 0's, then 1 of each grade up to whatever I'm working on

Yep, this is great. Do some stretches and rest a bit between routes, too. You'll get warmed up and limbered up very effectively.

Condoleezza Nice!
Jan 4, 2010

Lite som Robin Hood
fast inte
I might be moving to the US or Canada in the fall, and I just don't understand your difficulty ratings! Could any of you explain them to me like I was a retarded Scandinavian? (I am a retarded Scandinavian) Alternatively, provide me with a good link?

Climbing is my life at the moment, I need to understand.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Mountain project has many many routes. Wiki climbing grades has a comparison chart.

AriTheDog
Jul 29, 2003
Famously tasty.

Fanzay posted:

I might be moving to the US or Canada in the fall, and I just don't understand your difficulty ratings! Could any of you explain them to me like I was a retarded Scandinavian? (I am a retarded Scandinavian) Alternatively, provide me with a good link?

Climbing is my life at the moment, I need to understand.

If you Google climbing grades, the Wikipedia article has a comparison chart.

Currently taking a couple weeks off to avoid further injury, give yourself rest days people, particularly after a break.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

E

AriTheDog posted:


Currently taking a couple weeks off to avoid further injury, give yourself rest days people, particularly after a break.

Me too, I thought I had adequately warmed up but it was extra cold on Sunday and I have hurt my shoulder :(

I was leaning back on it and went for a quite dynamic move which necessitated pulling myself fast across the wall - so going from leaning out on the shoulder with my arm in front, to pushing forward and ending up with that arm outstretched to the side - and I kind of felt it go "ping".

It doesn't feel really bad or anything now, just has a soreness if I raise my arm above shoulder height, and I can feel a slight "grinding" when I do that - again, not agonising or very pronounced, so I don't think I've torn anything, but I'm really pissed off about having to have more time off :(

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Chris! posted:

Me too, I thought I had adequately warmed up but it was extra cold on Sunday and I have hurt my shoulder :(

I was leaning back on it and went for a quite dynamic move which necessitated pulling myself fast across the wall - so going from leaning out on the shoulder with my arm in front, to pushing forward and ending up with that arm outstretched to the side - and I kind of felt it go "ping".

It doesn't feel really bad or anything now, just has a soreness if I raise my arm above shoulder height, and I can feel a slight "grinding" when I do that - again, not agonising or very pronounced, so I don't think I've torn anything, but I'm really pissed off about having to have more time off :(

Holy poo poo grinding is usually a terrible indicator. :ohdear:

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience

Chris! posted:

It doesn't feel really bad or anything now, just has a soreness if I raise my arm above shoulder height, and I can feel a slight "grinding" when I do that - again, not agonising or very pronounced, so I don't think I've torn anything, but I'm really pissed off about having to have more time off :(

Maybe some swelling is causing things to rub together in a more pronounced fashion. Just go get an MRI or x-ray or whatever they'll give you so you don't climb on an unknown injury.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Anyone traveling for the ccs comps?

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

jackchaos posted:

Anyone traveling for the ccs comps?

I live in Tampa and go to USF so I may travel with the team to nationals in Melbourne. Too injured/weak to compete this year though. Where are you coming from?

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008

TotallyUnoriginal posted:

I live in Tampa and go to USF so I may travel with the team to nationals in Melbourne. Too injured/weak to compete this year though. Where are you coming from?

San Luis Obispo! In California. I get to set a finals problem and I'm hoping to use the atomik bomb cannon ball I just aquired.

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

Chris! posted:

Me too, I thought I had adequately warmed up but it was extra cold on Sunday and I have hurt my shoulder :(

I was leaning back on it and went for a quite dynamic move which necessitated pulling myself fast across the wall - so going from leaning out on the shoulder with my arm in front, to pushing forward and ending up with that arm outstretched to the side - and I kind of felt it go "ping".

It doesn't feel really bad or anything now, just has a soreness if I raise my arm above shoulder height, and I can feel a slight "grinding" when I do that - again, not agonising or very pronounced, so I don't think I've torn anything, but I'm really pissed off about having to have more time off :(

That is what it felt like when I almost tore my rotator cuff. It sounds mild, but definitely get it looked at. I did physical therapy instead of the surgery (because I didn't tear it all the way) and I still feel an ache if I over use it or sleep on it the wrong way. This injury happened 15 years ago.

Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target
Some friends and I were introduced to a great game/training exercise yesterday. When climbing you have to hover your hand or foot above any hold you're about to use for 3 seconds. I'm suffering today after doing that for a couple of hours.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

jackchaos posted:

San Luis Obispo! In California. I get to set a finals problem and I'm hoping to use the atomik bomb cannon ball I just aquired.

Set a dyno with it.


Or a bathang :suicide:

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

E
Thank you all for your replies and advice regarding my shoulder injury. I was going to book a doctors appointment, but the injury was on Sunday morning, it's has felt better each day and now (Wednesday evening) it feels perfectly fine - there's no grinding or soreness at all, through any range of motion.

I'm thinking of just taking 2 weeks off and as long as there are no issues in that time, just taking it easy after that. Does that sound sensible?

Eat Bum Zen
Jul 19, 2013

*mumbles*
Rated T for Teen
So I need to work some kind of finger-flicking motion because somehow tendinitis has migrated down towards my wrist. Do you all just use rubberbands or your own hang as resistance or what? I can still boulder v2/3s, but if my forearms are sore at all it translates to some terrible pain if I try to latch onto a pinch or a sloper or god forbid I slip off any kind of curved surface.

For some reason the same kind of problems don't exist when I top rope, but that could just be because the nature of the movement is a little different and my forearms are staying pretty warm throughout the climb.

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French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience

Chris! posted:

Thank you all for your replies and advice regarding my shoulder injury. I was going to book a doctors appointment, but the injury was on Sunday morning, it's has felt better each day and now (Wednesday evening) it feels perfectly fine - there's no grinding or soreness at all, through any range of motion.

I'm thinking of just taking 2 weeks off and as long as there are no issues in that time, just taking it easy after that. Does that sound sensible?

Just go to the doctor anyway if it's cheap enough co-pay. And yes, more time off is better. A month is pretty reasonable, but you might consider moderate PT exercises (that your doctor can advise upon) during this downtime.

Eat Bum Zen posted:

So I need to work some kind of finger-flicking motion because somehow tendinitis has migrated down towards my wrist. Do you all just use rubberbands or your own hang as resistance or what? I can still boulder v2/3s, but if my forearms are sore at all it translates to some terrible pain if I try to latch onto a pinch or a sloper or god forbid I slip off any kind of curved surface.

For some reason the same kind of problems don't exist when I top rope, but that could just be because the nature of the movement is a little different and my forearms are staying pretty warm throughout the climb.

The rubber band thing has worked for me. Putting it around my thumb and whatever fingers I choose and then doing open-hand motions.

You might consider one of those spinning powerballs. They're pretty nifty, too. Maybe you're not warming up enough, either?

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