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resident posted:Set aside $500/mo in a savings account and drive your Geo until it dies. Also fill out the questions from the OP. I don't agree with this. The downsides of a car as unsafe and unreliable as an old Metro are considerable. Since you do not seem to care much about the car as more than a tool, I'd recommend looking at cars that are three to five years old. You can easily snag a 50k mile Camry, Accord, Fusion or comparable car for about ten to fifteen grand. If you want to broaden your search then go buy a copy of Consumer Reports, check out the sedans, write down the ones that are most reliable and strike you fancy, and find those cars in your area.
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Feb 28, 2014 08:09
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Faceless Clock posted:I don't agree with this. The downsides of a car as unsafe and unreliable as an old Metro are considerable. On what planet can you get a 3 year old Camry/Accord for 10 grand?
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Feb 28, 2014 11:12
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Continuum Potato posted:I made a post a while back but it got buried at the bottom of the page. I think I needed to be asking different questions anyway though. Go buy a Toyota Corolla and follow the factory maintenance schedule to a T. It'll last you at least 15 years if you take care of it and you can have it paid off in your time frame. It's still the go to driving appliance in my opinion. If you want something bigger buy a Camry.
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Feb 28, 2014 16:28
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IRQ posted:On what planet can you get a 3 year old Camry/Accord for 10 grand? Man it's a good thing I didn't say that, that would have been ridiculous! I said 10 to 15k grand and 3 to 5 years old. Obviously a Camry is going to push the higher end of the range. And if Mr. Potato decides he wants a Fusion, he'll be towards the lower end of the range.
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Feb 28, 2014 17:42
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Proposed Budget: 3,000 New or Used: used Body Style: need enough room to travel from Maryland to New Hampshire with 3-4 passengers a few times a year. How will you be using the car?: Primarily for local commute, however as stated above the occasional road trip. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, Fuel-Economy, enough room for passengers. I've been without a car for about 3 years now, my last one poo poo the bed when i was a pizza delivery driver. It was a 2001 Elantra and that thing needed repairs every month, to the point where the last month i owned it about 4 things wen't wrong at the same time and I was broke, without a car, and without a job. I've finally dug myself out of the hole, and with my 3k tax return in hand I need to find a car to get out of my current lovely job (4:30am-2:30pm every Saturday Sunday, and i work from 3:15pm-12:30am on the weekdays). I've been checking KBB and cars.com daily trying to see what things cost and put together a picture of what I should be looking for. But as mentioned in the OP Toyotas and Hondas tend to be more expensive, even thought they will need regular maintenance like any other 100k+ mile vehicle. I've seen some great deals on Saturns, and am considering that as a possible option, also Chevys seem to give good price for the mileage. I've come here today to ask for advice from the Goons because I'm feeling such anxiety over this decision. Should I just find specific cars throw them up here for people to comment on, or can i get some advice to narrow my search before i start randomly throwing out car models and years in the used 3k range? (sorry for this disorganized rant im pretty tired)
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Mar 1, 2014 15:42
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Classic Saturns burn oil like hell, especially the DOHC ones (more powerful and better motor), but other than that they are pretty reliable. The interiors are tragic and fall apart, but the cars themselves hold up. Newer Saturns (Aura onward) are just reskinned Chevrolets, but anything older is totally different. The problem with classic Saturns is parts availability, though they are somewhat common in salvage yards. If you can swing staying in your job for a while and get up to the 5K range, I would do so. 3K isn't enough to be particularly choosy. You're basically going to have to get the relatively best car you can for the money, and then count on putting more money in to it.
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Mar 1, 2014 16:21
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If you can swing staying in your job for a while and get up to the 5K range, I would do so. 3K isn't enough to be particularly choosy. You're basically going to have to get the relatively best car you can for the money, and then count on putting more money in to it. Thanks for the input, I wasn't sure about Saturn as a company. The resources I'm using place all the hondas and toyotas at the 3k range for the 90's, while the saturns are all coming in at 2500 for the same millage. It seems a bit confusing to me to consider that buying a 70k mile car might be more costly than a 150k car since around 100k you can expect major repairs, where a car with more millage would already have those repairs done. Would you prioritize cars over 100k for that reason? or is that to specific of a scenario to base my research around?
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Mar 1, 2014 20:40
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On cars built in the last decade and a half 100kmi is nothing. 200k is the new 100k. At you price, condition means more than mileage or even brand. Excepting a few stinkers, I'd rather have a 150k mi car with full maintence records in nice shape than a 75k car with no records that leaks,
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Mar 1, 2014 21:28
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The reason for that is simple: Saturn was just another of many, many GM rebadge brands. At 3k$ you're buying a beater, and it's going to be a case by case thing. When you get to that range it's more important that the car is well maintained and any major defects have already gone bad and been fixed than what marque it is.
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Mar 1, 2014 21:28
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So my wife's car, a 2006 Suzuki Reno, had a catastrophic engine failure last week. My father-in-law offered to kick in $5000 for a down payment, provided we get a Toyota. He decided to co-sign for my wife since he has amazing credit, but wanted to find a late model with low miles in the 12k range. He and I searched for most of the past week and he kept sending me info on CPO Corollas that were 14k. I ended up finding a 2012 CPO Camry fully optioned out for 14k; out the door, it would've been about 16k with tax, tag, etc. The problem is that he didn't like the dealer it was at, so instead jumped on a 2011 Camry for 15,900. Total for everything, including additional warranty above the CPO warranty, was near $19500. I'm certainly happy that he offered to pony up $5000 for a down payment and will probably cover some of the payments for us until I start med school in the fall. But goddamn, I wish someone would've listened to me. But hey, I have a reliable car now.
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Mar 1, 2014 21:30
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IRQ posted:The reason for that is simple: Saturn was just another of many, many GM rebadge brands. Actually early saturn was not a rebadge brand. Plastic cars, but no rebadges until the mid 2000s.
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Mar 1, 2014 23:25
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Bloodyshinta1 posted:Thanks for the input, I wasn't sure about Saturn as a company. The resources I'm using place all the hondas and toyotas at the 3k range for the 90's, while the saturns are all coming in at 2500 for the same millage. It seems a bit confusing to me to consider that buying a 70k mile car might be more costly than a 150k car since around 100k you can expect major repairs, where a car with more millage would already have those repairs done. Would you prioritize cars over 100k for that reason? or is that to specific of a scenario to base my research around? Buy the nicest 4 cylinder Camry you can find within your budget. 90's Toyotas are leagues ahead of any Saturns of the same years, and are worth the extra money without question. I just picked up a one owner '96 Camry with 180k on it, it drives like it's new and the interior is perfect. It was well maintained however, and to find one it may take some patience but they are out there. Maintenance on these cars is nothing, parts are cheap as poo poo and they are easy to work on. For instance, I can get a complete set of struts (mounts, springs, shocks, pre assembled) for 300 on rockauto.com. The only significant job is the timing belt but even that's cheap as hell if you can do it yourself and it's only done every 60k miles. Also the automatic transmissions are bullet proof compared to most others. If you can find one in good condition and can do basic maintenance yourself a 4cyl Camry is probably the most reliable and cost effective $3k used car you can get.
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Mar 2, 2014 01:05
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leica posted:Camry That sounds pretty enticing, getting a maintenance record and a mechanic who knows what he's doing has been a very common theme in everything i've read, thanks for the recommendation. I talked to a friend earlier today and his advice was pretty much get a Camry and save up to 5k for better options/newer car. I can do some basic stuff like brake pads and what not, and in the past i've changed out radiator and calipers (with a co-worker's help and tools). USAA offered me a waranty on a car i buy that is within 10 years of age, but that is going to bump up the price quite a bit. Is it worth it? Doing the research and getting a good car upfront seems to be the advice from most sources i've looked at, but a waranty would remove the guess work out of buying a car. My friend also suggest looking at craigslist with the rational that anyone posting a car up on a used car website is going to have access to information about what their car is worth, and it won't be easy to find a good deal. Getting a 90-something Camry for 2000 when it should be 4000 sounds pretty boss to me.
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Mar 2, 2014 03:28
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nwin posted:Definitely noted on the Highlander- I asked the question in AI and someone said it wouldn't be a problem to tow it, but then I asked here and started doing some research and...yeah. Quoting to update. We went and test drove a 2011 Highlander Limited and a 2012 Grand Cherokee Laredo today. My wife really liked the Highlander. Things she liked: Visibility-she said she really didn't have any blind spots power seat (her CR-V is a manual seat and she likes all the different ways to make her seat position that much better with up/down, etc.) rearview camera handsfree phone How much room the 2nd row seats have. The CR-V seats are fairly cramped in the front and the back. Things she didn't like: It was almost *too* tech saavy if that makes sense. Nothing was automatically intuitive with the electronics and she found herself looking around for a while on how to change a/c modes, etc. I didn't think it really had THAT much more cargo space than the CR-V. She disagrees. For the Jeep: She didn't like the blindspots. It definitely felt more claustrophobic than the highlander, if that makes sense. So, the Jeep is out. Some cars we are considering and will drive next time is the Ford Edge, the Explorer, maybe the expedition, and the GMC Acadia. Thoughts?
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Mar 2, 2014 03:36
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Bloodyshinta1 posted:My friend also suggest looking at craigslist with the rational that anyone posting a car up on a used car website is going to have access to information about what their car is worth, and it won't be easy to find a good deal. Getting a 90-something Camry for 2000 when it should be 4000 sounds pretty boss to me. Most people that sell Toyotas know what they have, I wouldn't hold your breath on getting an incredible deal. That being said, people that neglect their Toyotas think that they are worth the same as well maintained ones. Just do your homework, and concentrate on getting a reasonable deal. If you're not sure what you're looking at I'd suggest having a mechanic you trust giving any car you're considering a good look over. Also I'd skip a warranty.
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Mar 2, 2014 04:40
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leica posted:Buy the nicest 4 cylinder Camry you can find within your budget. 90's Toyotas are leagues ahead of any Saturns of the same years, and are worth the extra money without question. I just picked up a one owner '96 Camry with 180k on it, it drives like it's new and the interior is perfect. It was well maintained however, and to find one it may take some patience but they are out there. Sorry to back track, did you get that car from a person or a dealer? A customer i talked to today was very adamant about not getting a car though a dealer because he thought it was a rip off, do you have an opinion on this?
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Mar 2, 2014 15:02
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IRQ posted:The reason for that is simple: Saturn was just another of many, many GM rebadge brands. Saturn was actually a weird GM experiment in doing literally everything differently about cars, from the showrooms to the sales experience to the part distribution network to the vehicles themselves. A ton of cool poo poo came out of Saturn which GM eventually ruined.
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Mar 2, 2014 15:42
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Saturn was actually a weird GM experiment in doing literally everything differently about cars, from the showrooms to the sales experience to the part distribution network to the vehicles themselves. A ton of cool poo poo came out of Saturn which GM eventually ruined. Some people loved the hell out of it too. My sister would only buy Saturns and went to these Saturn owner meets and everything. They captured the sort of buzz that Prius did, way earlier, and proceeded to do poo poo all with it.
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Mar 2, 2014 18:22
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Uncle Jam posted:Some people loved the hell out of it too. My sister would only buy Saturns and went to these Saturn owner meets and everything. They captured the sort of buzz that Prius did, way earlier, and proceeded to do poo poo all with it. One of the key lessons is that although you can literally do every single other thing correctly, if your product becomes uncompetitive, you're boned.
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Mar 2, 2014 22:10
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Bloodyshinta1 posted:Sorry to back track, did you get that car from a person or a dealer? A customer i talked to today was very adamant about not getting a car though a dealer because he thought it was a rip off, do you have an opinion on this? I got it from my neighbor. I never buy used cars from dealers, if you have cash, buying a sub 5k car from a dealer is stupid.
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Mar 3, 2014 00:54
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I ended up buying the Taurus SHO I was looking at this Saturday. I got a deal on it I couldn't refuse and I've wanted one since they came out. I've been looking for the last 4 months or so for a color/package that I wanted and this is one of the few that popped up. I got them down to 28,495 on the car. A CPO 2013 SHO with 18,000 miles on it and an original MSRP of 47K. These things don't hold their value worth a poo poo and I get the full benefit of that depreciation. The factory window sticker has the name of the guy who ordered it, and I looked him up, he's a 70 year old retired Ford Engineer who had the car a little less than 2 years and only put 18K on it. The car looks brand new inside and out so I felt good about picking this one up. They gave me 14K on my 2011 Fusion Sport which is way more than it was worth to be honest. It had 69,000 miles on it, had several chips in the windshield and was due for a front brake job. My normal dealer would have maybe given me 12K for it tops as Actual Cash Value. Combine the excellent deal with a super low rate from my credit union and I'm a very happy camper today. Just a reminder folks, if you sell your car, make sure you wipe all your data out of the infotainment system. The previous owner left all his data in there, I have his cell phone number, home address, workplace address, etc all stored in the Navigation and SYNC system. Most systems should have a master reset function you should use when you sell/trade your car.
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Mar 3, 2014 19:44
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What's the chances I can get a dealer to find a not new car for me? My wife wants a magenta camaro convertible , and if I could get it in a cpo that would be great. Or would it be better to just have the dealer order a new one (and will they?). Also a local dealer has a used car I've been wanting to look at and they just dropped the listed price by $3900 what's the chances I'll be able to get it down more? If it matters it's a 2011 cpo Mustang gt premium that just dropped to 23k from $26.9k
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Mar 3, 2014 19:53
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BJA posted:Also a local dealer has a used car I've been wanting to look at and they just dropped the listed price by $3900 what's the chances I'll be able to get it down more? If it matters it's a 2011 cpo Mustang gt premium that just dropped to 23k from $26.9k You should definitely be able to get it down more than that, new 2014 Mustang GT Premiums are $29k asking price around me. For a 3 year old one I'd want way more than $6k off.
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Mar 3, 2014 20:06
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BJA posted:What's the chances I can get a dealer to find a not new car for me? My wife wants a magenta camaro convertible , and if I could get it in a cpo that would be great. Or would it be better to just have the dealer order a new one (and will they?). To answer your first question. It's probably impossible for a dealer to find you a used car just for you. You'd have to know somebody to make that happen. The dealer stocks it's used cars from trade ins and auctions. If you could find someone that has access to the private dealer only auto auctions and you had cash for the car, AND a Magenta Camaro just so happened to be at that auction, then something might work out in your favor. A dealer will be more than happy to help you order a new one, or find one nearby and work out a dealer trade for it. I suggest setting up a CarGurus.com alert for the car you want. That's what I did. I got an email anytime a SHO went up for sale within 75 miles of my zip code and again anytime the prices changed. To answer your second question, "It depends". Online advertising for used cars is pretty cutthroat and depending on the dealer the posted 'internet' price might be as low as they want to go. A dealer close to my house will have a 'sticker' price of 26.9K but then advertise it online for 23K and won't go much lower than that. It really depends. If you can find the car on cargurus it will tell you how long it's been on the lot. If it's been there for 90 days or so they probably want to move it so they'll take a little less for it. The best time to buy a car is when you don't need a car. You can wait a few months for the right car or right deal to come along. My best car deals have come a week or so after I left the dealership after saying "call me if you can make the deal better". fake edit: Are you talking about the brand new Deep Magenta color on the 2014 Camaro? That's new for this year and you wont find it used. I just looked up paint colors on 2010 to 2013 Camaros and I don't see a Magenta anywhere listed. You want to buy new if you want that particular color with a certain package and trim.
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Mar 3, 2014 20:11
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leica posted:I got it from my neighbor. I never buy used cars from dealers, if you have cash, buying a sub 5k car from a dealer is stupid. I just did a bluebook comparison and sure enough, the dealer is asking about 1,500 more than the car is worth. The add: http://www.cars.com/go/search/detai...onal&listType=1 The Bluebook price: http://www.kbb.com/toyota/camry/199...ricetype=retail And Carfax suggested price: http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?vin=4T1BG12K2TU650966&partner=CDM_U I suppose i could try to talk this place down on it, but I really have no idea how to go about doing that.
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Mar 3, 2014 20:29
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Bloodyshinta1 posted:I just did a bluebook comparison and sure enough, the dealer is asking about 1,500 more than the car is worth. I've posted about negotiating a lot, but basically the way it works is you show up, point at the car, and say "can you work with me on that price?" They will immediately try to pressure you about whether you'll be financing and whether you have a trade in. Do not agree to a payment method until the price is agreed-upon (and there is no discount for paying in cash - quite the opposite, the dealer would almost always rather you finance). If you don't have a trade in it's fine to say that, but if you do, don't admit it until the price is settled. At that point you can negotiate the value of your trade-in, and if you're not happy with that number, just sell your old car privately instead because holy poo poo do people get ripped off on trade-ins all the time. When I last shopped for cars, I went to at least a dozen new and used car dealerships, asked about two or three dozen cars, and was only once told that they couldn't budge on the sticker - and that was for a car that was parked on a platform on the lawn with balloons on it, so it was some kind of advertised price I guess. It always varies how much they'll come down on a given car, but the best time to negotiate is in the winter (people stay inside instead of shopping), in terrible weather (same reason), and at the end of the month (when salespeople are trying to hit a quota in order to win incentives from their bosses, and dealerships are trying to hit numbers to win incentives from the factory). Always, and I do mean always, be willing to walk away no matter what. I personally think it's better to walk way every time; tell them you'll consider their best price, after you do some comparison shopping and check with the wife/figure out some budgeting/mow the lawn/whatever. They'll be more likely to drop the price a little more if they realize you're not going to buy today, unless tomorrow is literally the first of the month. So to answer your specific question: don't tell the dealer exactly what the bluebook is, because they'll just get into an argument with you about the accuracy of bluebook numbers. Instead, ask if they'll work with you on price, and then when you're ready to negotiate, your opening bid should be something like 20% off their sticker. I'd expect to get talked up to maybe 10% off, maybe 15% off, depending. Nail down a price you're happy with, and then (and only then) discuss payment options.
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Mar 3, 2014 21:09
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I was in this thread a few weeks ago trying to decide between a Subaru Legacy, Mazda 6, and a Ford Fusion. I had let slip that I had always wanted a Subaru, and then everyone jumped on that and told me to buy one because I'll just do it in a year or two anyhow... Well, once I had test driven all 3 cars, I immediately tossed out the Fusion. Compared to the other two, there was no competition...the screen/infotainment system was cool, but other than that it was pretty blah and almost annoying to drive. Plus, the way the center console was designed it just felt cramped, like I was encased in plastic. But as much as I tried to like the Legacy, I ended up buying a 2014 Mazda 6 last Friday, complete with Grand Touring trim and radar cruise control option. As far as driving it, I liked it a lot more. It felt much more connected to the road, and the acceleration was better. The infotainment system was a little nicer than the Legacy, as well. Part of it was the CVT...I didn't really like the way it felt. I understand that it's more efficient, but something about it just didn't sit well with me. The only things missing over a decked out Legacy is the AWD and the crash-avoidance system. I don't need AWD where I live right now, and from what I can tell it'll be a few more years until the crash-avoidance systems are mature enough to be truly useful (at least, at this price point). Out the door I paid a hair less than $30k, and that includes tax/title/fees. I REALLY wanted to like the Legacy, but after driving them both I had to go with the Mazda. Time will tell if I regret my decision, but I think I would have immediately regretted not getting the Mazda. For now, after having driven it for a few days, I'm pretty drat happy with the decision.
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Mar 3, 2014 22:09
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Congrats on the car man, those are nice. If your car puts a smile on your face you did good in my book.
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Mar 3, 2014 22:11
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Bloodyshinta1 posted:I suppose i could try to talk this place down on it, but I really have no idea how to go about doing that. No, don't bother. Start searching private party sales. Dealers are a waste of time unless you have no money and need to finance. Even then they suck donkey balls, do not ever go to a dealer willingly.
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Mar 3, 2014 23:12
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DaveSauce posted:But as much as I tried to like the Legacy, I ended up buying a 2014 Mazda 6 last Friday, complete with Grand Touring trim and radar cruise control option. I hate you so much right now...  Anyway I'm also posting an update to say that I made my final decision and will buy a Mazda 3 GT (That's the Mazda 3 S GT or whatever for Americans). I elected not to get the leather and tech packages because they really jack up the price while offering minimal utility. I figure I can do without the blind spot monitor (which is all I really wanted anyway). All in I'm getting it for 30k and change. Should have it sometime at the start of April.
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Mar 4, 2014 00:00
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Kraftwerk posted:I hate you so much right now... Holy crap....first, we're talking USD, right? But mostly: holy taxes and delivery batman. MSRP is in the ballpark, which it should be (though you have some additional options spec'd out it looks like). You're just getting reamed on the taxes/fees/delivery. Mazda's destination charge should only be $795, so if you're getting that price from a dealer you need to ask about that. But if you're not in the US, then there's probably separate stuff they're charging you for. I bought from dealer inventory, so if you're custom ordering something you may be getting hit with some extra processing/handling charges. Aside from that, sales tax on cars in my state is only 3%, so it was under $900 for me. The only fee they listed on the sheet for me was a $549 documentation fee, which I was OK with considering the price they gave me for the car on its own. I know that all the other fees were probably bundled in with the price of the car, but that just makes the price they gave me that much better. I suppose technically, I still owe property tax on my car as well, which should be another $200-300, so I guess all said and done I'll have put in a bit over $30k. I know you said you're going with a 3, but it sounds like you're ordering that from the factory? Unless you're hellbent on getting a virgin car, try searching local dealer inventory to see if they have anything close to what you're looking for. You'll get a much better deal that way, but you will probably have to sacrifice some features and make compromises on what you want.
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Mar 4, 2014 01:16
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Twerk from Home posted:You should definitely be able to get it down more than that, new 2014 Mustang GT Premiums are $29k asking price around me. For a 3 year old one I'd want way more than $6k off. Are they really going that low? This dealer has 3 gt premiums at $36k $37k $38k and a premium gt convertible for $42k. Even using the build a car option on the Ford website without adding any options and my wife's employee discount only gets it to $33K. It's a cpo with 20k miles. I looked at kbb and it listed the price at $24.5k I'll have to tell my wife that the camaro is a new color and we'll probably have to order it. Is it going to be a lot more difficult trying to bargain with a car they have to order for her?
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Mar 4, 2014 01:31
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DaveSauce posted:Well, once I had test driven all 3 cars, I immediately tossed out the Fusion. Compared to the other two, there was no competition...the screen/infotainment system was cool, but other than that it was pretty blah and almost annoying to drive. Plus, the way the center console was designed it just felt cramped, like I was encased in plastic. I recently had a 2013 Fusion SE with the 2.5L as a rental for a little over a week, and I found the acceleration very lacking. Overall the ride felt like a marshmallow, although that could just be because I'm coming from a Mazdaspeed3. What didn't you like about it specifically?
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Mar 4, 2014 01:34
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BJA posted:Are they really going that low? This dealer has 3 gt premiums at $36k $37k $38k and a premium gt convertible for $42k. I've bought 2 cars from these guys, a V6 Premium for me and a Ford Focus for my wife. My coworker bought an automatic 2014 Focus hatch from them last week for $15k. No trades on any of these deals. I custom ordered my 2013 V6 Premium in mid-2012 and paid $22k, you can get a great deal ordering a specific car as long as you're willing to wait. $42k for a Premium GT Convertible is highway robbery. Premium GT: $29k: http://www.machaikford.com/new/details/1ZVBP8CF7E5277688/2014_ford_mustang_gt_premium_Houston_Texas Premium GT Convertible $33.7k: http://www.machaikford.com/new/details/1ZVBP8FF3E5280793/2014_ford_mustang_gt_premium_Houston_Texas Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 02:23
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Kraftwerk posted:I hate you so much right now... You're in Canada, right?
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Mar 4, 2014 02:41
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DaveSauce posted:Holy crap....first, we're talking USD, right? KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You're in Canada, right? Yes I do live in Canada. Those prices are in Canadian dollars which until recently have been 1:1 with USD. Over where I live Mazda 3s are rolling off the lots like crazy and there aren't that many GT models (that's the one with the 2.5L engine and Bose audio system). I initially wanted to get the Leather + Tech packages but it's pure decadence and jacks up the price to 36k OTR. Like this I can get it for 31k and drop it to 30. If I was American I'd be waiting for the Mk7 GTI. Unfortunately in Canada it would run me 41k with the options I want and unlike my Mazda dealer the VW guys tack on a ton of non negotiable dealer fees and other crap. VW has a HORRIBLE dealer network that insults the intelligence of their customers. The last time I tried to buy a Golf they flat out said all prices were final and I had to pay their stupid $400 admin fee. I told them they can gently caress right off. The only people who buy VWs are kids with rich parents, eastern bloc people who don't know any better and patriotic Germans. I think I'd rather be rational and own a car that won't stab me in the dick during normal use. Kraftwerk fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 04:12
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Proposed Budget: Approximately $25k New or Used: Used Body Style: Truck 4x4, prefer a crew cab for the longer bed. I am in a catch-22 because I like lower to the ground, but want 4x4 which makes them all taller. How will you be using the car?:Commuting, hauling motorcycles in the truck bed to various racetracks What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, MPG What's the latest and greatest amongst the big 3 Pickup Trucks, circa 2011ish? Enterprise is currently giving me a Ram 1500 Big Horn edition which I actually really like, but it's priced out of my range. Furthermore, it's really tall for loading/unloading motorcycles. I test drove a few F-150s, they were surprisingly not as as nice as expected, but still good. http://www.reedford.com/used/details/1FTFW1EF3BFD27780/2011_ford_f_150_xl_Oklahoma_City__OKC This is one of the ones I test drove, they mislabeled it - it's an XLT trim. I really liked it except it has high miles, had a shudder at 55 mph, and a belt was squeaking. Obviously it will need it's 90k service, but with the exception of high miles, it's nothing that can't be fixed with a bit of a price adjustment. I test drove a 2013 Chevy 1500, was not impressed, but it was a base model. How's the planned reliability for the late model trucks? Any ones to specifically avoid or look at? Why don't they make Crew Cabs anymore? This longer cab and shorter bed is the exact opposite of what I need in a truck. I am coming from an 02 F-150 4x4 which was so small compared to the giant behemoths of trucks they sell today, and they've made a lot of overall improvements in the 13 years of truck design.
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Mar 4, 2014 04:36
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xaarman posted:Why don't they make Crew Cabs anymore? This longer cab and shorter bed is the exact opposite of what I need in a truck. You mean regular cab? Regular cab 4x4 V8 short bed is rare but they're out there  The crew cab ones look massive but these don't look too bad. Might be able to get a new one for high 20's.
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Mar 4, 2014 06:01
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I should have mentioned that. I still need a back seat to put groceries/work equipment, etc.
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Mar 4, 2014 12:34
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xaarman posted:I should have mentioned that. I still need a back seat to put groceries/work equipment, etc. I think what you're looking for is called 'extended cab'. Regular cab has no back seats; extended cab has a smaller back seat; crew cab has full size back seats and four doors and is huge.
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Mar 4, 2014 18:48
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