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Is there any way to make the HF grease gun not a flaming pile of poo poo? It keeps pulling zerks out of the fittings. Wish I didn't buy it.  http://www.harborfreight.com/lever-action-grease-gun-1703.htmlDo not buy this.
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Feb 27, 2014 01:32
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 08:34 |
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Grease guns are literally hitler. The Lucas one blows chunks too. I have a nice one at home... well, a reportedly nice one.
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Feb 27, 2014 01:33
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Sometimes I think the chances of finding a great grease gun are the same as me finding the Holy Grail.
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Feb 27, 2014 03:37
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Surely SnapOn grease guns can't be that bad. At $40, they're reasonably priced relative to some of their other tools.
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Feb 27, 2014 03:38
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Lincoln makes decent ones. When we towed a lot (and I mean 10K+ miles/year) of boat trailers, we'd go through a dozen tubes of full-size grease each year. I bought cheap Pistol-grips with hoses at AutoZone. When they broke, we tossed them. I've got a Lincoln, and its nicer, but still nothing "omg, this is the best ever". Grease guns just universally suck rear end.
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Feb 27, 2014 03:39
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Powered greese guns are the only way to go. In other news and late to the party, but just got a Powerprobe. Love it.
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Feb 27, 2014 03:54
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Safety Dance posted:Surely SnapOn grease guns can't be that bad. At $40, they're reasonably priced relative to some of their other tools. They probably doesn't even make their own, Plews makes tons of grease guns that are rebranded.
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Feb 27, 2014 04:22
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Used my ball head allen sockets from Harbor Frieght for the first time today building some 80-20 poo poo. I was really surprised to see the shaft twist and not have the ball snap off at the neck. I was on the fence about getting the torx ones but I think I will now.
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Feb 27, 2014 04:25
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I bought 2 of the metal HF wrench organizers. i like them better than the craftsman basic plastic ones. The HF organizer is $7 vs $10 for craftsman. It also gives you 14 slots, craftsman only has 2. http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-14-wrench-holder-4800.html
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Feb 27, 2014 14:47
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enkalen posted:I bought 2 of the metal HF wrench organizers. i like them better than the craftsman basic plastic ones. The HF organizer is $7 vs $10 for craftsman. It also gives you 14 slots, craftsman only has 2. Ooh, I may have to grab one of those. I've got a cheap rear end set of combo-wrenches that still live in their plastic rack/case/giant-pain-in-the-rear end.
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Feb 27, 2014 16:13
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Oh, I've never even saw the metal ones at HF. The plastic ones are horrid, btw.
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Feb 27, 2014 18:51
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kastein posted:Grease guns are literally hitler. The Lucas one blows chunks too. I've been pretty happy with my Lucas pistol-grip one so far... but I also use it very, very rarely.
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Feb 27, 2014 18:55
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Anyone used the plastic Mityvacs? Am I better off lighting $40 on fire than buying one for basic maintenance and repair purposes?
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Feb 28, 2014 04:07
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Molten Llama posted:Anyone used the plastic Mityvacs? Am I better off lighting $40 on fire than buying one for basic maintenance and repair purposes? What one are you taling about....in general they are pretty useful....but there are many sizes available.
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Feb 28, 2014 04:52
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One of the hand pumps, not the giant fuckoff evacuators. Local options are: The MV8000 that's available approximately everywhere. No pressure outlet, but I can't immediately see a need for it. Harbor Freight (surprisingly) has some older, apparently less-well-constructed model with a pressure outlet.
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Feb 28, 2014 17:13
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Molten Llama posted:One of the hand pumps, not the giant fuckoff evacuators. Local options are: I have one in that size that I use for several things. Top of the list is evacuating small fluid reservoirs (master cylinders, power steering fluid reservoirs) when swapping fluids. I suppose in a pinch I could use it to bleed brakes or a clutch, but they're poo poo at that compared to a proper pressure bleeder. And some clutches simply refuse to be vacuum bled (80's Porsches are among that list).
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Feb 28, 2014 17:20
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Did anyone see Woot on Wednesday? They had a Craftsman Rolling Tool Chest & Cabinet for $249 - by the time I figured out it was a good deal they were gone. Here's their forum link for reference: http://www.woot.com/forums/viewpost.aspx?postid=5713571&pageindex=1&replycount=62
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Feb 28, 2014 21:23
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Motronic posted:I have one in that size that I use for several things. Top of the list is evacuating small fluid reservoirs (master cylinders, power steering fluid reservoirs) when swapping fluids. I suppose in a pinch I could use it to bleed brakes or a clutch, but they're poo poo at that compared to a proper pressure bleeder. And some clutches simply refuse to be vacuum bled (80's Porsches are among that list). I used one like that for brakes, it was fine. Get some pressure, let it flow. Then I let it sink to the bottom of the toolbox on the truck where it was ruined forever and thrown away.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:05
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StormDrain posted:I used one like that for brakes, it was fine. Get some pressure, let it flow. I'm not saying they don't work "fine". They do. But I see pressure bleeding getting me a far superior pedal feel. The other issue you may run into when vacuum bleeding nasty old brakes is sucking air around the bleeder threads. I used to just seal them up with some never seez and it seemed to work OK.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:14
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Hit an Apex posted:Did anyone see Woot on Wednesday? Craftsman's tool chest sucks compared to even Harbor Freight. This guy did more research on tool boxes than I did when I bought a BMW, and the conclusion is basically buy the one from Harbor Freight or a Kobalt one from Lowes. This is the one you want. Watch for it to drop to around $300 and snap it up (with a stacking coupon if you can find one).
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Mar 1, 2014 03:03
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Motronic posted:I'm not saying they don't work "fine". They do. But I see pressure bleeding getting me a far superior pedal feel. The sucking air was a huge problem, sealing the threads helped. It seemed like I had so much air in the system that I couldn't get it bled without a little assistance to prime the lines. Somehow 2013 was the year of brake bleeding for me and I went through 4 quarts, for two vehicles.
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Mar 1, 2014 15:57
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Re: grease guns We have a pistol grip John Deere and a Lincoln Powerluber and I like both. The hose on the PowerLuber likes to get stuck on fittings that haven't been touched in forever but I think that's more my dad's fault the Lincoln's.
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Mar 2, 2014 07:28
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I guess I won the lottery in that my HF angle grinder with HF wheels hasn't shivved me yet. On the other hand, I wear a leather apron, welding gloves, long-sleeved shirt that's basically sail canvas, and eyepro ranging from welding mask to motorcycle helmet when using it, just in case.
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Mar 2, 2014 08:01
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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I use a pistol grip Lincoln grease gun at work to lube machines daily, they are just about the best I've used. I've never had a problem with them loving up, but if a zerk is sticking or grease is spilling out then I just put a new fitting on. I also wipe the fitting off after I lube it, which goes a long way in avoiding any hassles. The lever style ones suck rear end, and usually end up chucked out in the brush.
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Mar 2, 2014 08:55
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StormDrain posted:Alright, Kastein, what tools am I going to need for a rebuild of my D44 front differential? Assume I have nothing. Narrowing this question down a bit, do I need a spreader to get the carrier in, or can I limp along without?
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Mar 2, 2014 17:10
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You are going to need bearing pullers, a shop press, torque wrench, blah blah blah. High pinion or low pinion? You will need a new oil baffle if high pinion and replacing the pinion bearings, new crush sleeve if not. Sometimes the baffles are not the same thickness as the factory one so get a pinion depth shim set too. If you are going to just bearing-slap it, you don't need a mic, dial indicator, etc. If you are going to do it right, you should get a mic and dial indicator and some marking paste and make sure the backlash and pattern are correct after replacing the bearings. Do the axle seals while you are in there... they are right there and a pain in the rear end to get to otherwise. A case spreader is usually not needed, use a bigass deadblow, but it is a bastard to get in sometimes. I don't own a case spreader, just a big deadblow and some frustration. Doing it under the truck will suck without a case spreader, probably.
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Mar 2, 2014 17:51
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kastein posted:You are going to need bearing pullers, a shop press, torque wrench, blah blah blah. Definitely going to take it off the truck, clean and paint the whole thing just for kicks. The whole problem is the seals, so I'm expecting to buy a kit and replace everything. I've been thinking about a disc brake conversion while I'm at it, replace the drivers side ball joints, then take it to the spring shop for some new springs all around (one of my AI new years resolutions).
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Mar 2, 2014 18:29
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It is leaf sprung right? After pulling the axle you will be approximately four bolts from doing the springs yourself, leaf springs on full frame vehicles are incredibly easy IMO. Buy new ubolts and new shackle and eye bolts and do it yourself, I am sure you can order the leafs online. You should save quite a bit. Oh, make sure to clean the axle tubes out too. They get full of some nasty gunk unless it is a closed knuckle housing, and getting the shafts back in without loading them with grime to stuff right into your new clean seals and bearings is difficult if the tubes are filthy.
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Mar 2, 2014 19:00
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kastein posted:It is leaf sprung right? After pulling the axle you will be approximately four bolts from doing the springs yourself, leaf springs on full frame vehicles are incredibly easy IMO. Buy new ubolts and new shackle and eye bolts and do it yourself, I am sure you can order the leafs online. You should save quite a bit. Full size IH leaf springs are not very available online, and a co-worker recommended a local spring joint to get new ones, I figure I can at least chat witht hem. If it was a Chevy I'd be all about it.
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Mar 2, 2014 19:16
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A couple months ago I bought this Lincoln grease gun: http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-1134-Pistol-Grease/dp/B0002NYDZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393857755&sr=8-1&keywords=grease+gun and this coupler set: http://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-Grease-Lubrication-Aid-Kit/dp/B002RMMXG8/ref=pd_sim_auto_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0AGJPXN0SDZ9D7NWKWJM This gun is miles ahead of my old lever action grease gun which induced many bouts of rage. Maybe we can start a new AI sport: Aggravating Tool Shotput?
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Mar 3, 2014 15:59
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Heads up for those in need of some cordless tools, Milwaukee is having another one of their buy-one kit get-one free bare tool deals right now with the M12 lineup. Its good all through this month I believe, unfortunately TylerTool immediately sold out of the two tools I wanted but Toolbarn has the sale going also and most of it still seems to be in stock. Could always wait to see if Tylertool gets more in stock before the end of the month to enjoy that sweet, sweet free shipping. The combo I wanted, M12 Impact Hammer + M12 3/8" Ratchet was already $189 so I just added on some drill bits to get it over $200 for the free shipping from Toolbarn.
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Mar 6, 2014 03:12
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The Harbor Freight electric impact gun did not break or try to burn my garage down. It's listed at 230 ft pounds and there were a few times where we needed to use a breaker bar to get something broke free but then could use the gun to back everything off the rest of the way.. Lots of well rusted nuts and bolts that were installed at the factory 21 years ago we had to loosen or just grind off. The nuts holding the upper rear shocks to the mounts had rusted away into cone shaped tact wield of iron oxide. My buddy and I had a good laugh when opening the impact gun box when a packet of extra motor brushes fell out..
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Mar 6, 2014 20:35
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evilnissan posted:My buddy and I had a good laugh when opening the impact gun box when a packet of extra motor brushes fell out.. Normal. BTW I have a 700 ft/lb air impact and I run into bolts it can't break loose somewhat often. Recently a friend's wheel lugs got hammered on by a shop and it wouldn't budge them. I ended up using a breaker bar+jack handle+fence post to pop all 16. Point being, impacts, even air impacts, can't do everything.
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Mar 6, 2014 23:34
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revmoo posted:Normal. Jesus. Hopefully you took your Ultra-Cheater-Pipe contraption back to the shop and lovingly placed it up somebody's rear end.
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Mar 6, 2014 23:55
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revmoo posted:Normal. What impact gun do you have? I wrench for a living and I have literally not run into a bolt my Nitrocat 1200K couldn't break loose yet.
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Mar 7, 2014 01:04
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I have an Aircat 1150 and was fighting with a cross threaded lug nut wondering why the thing couldn't break it loose. Turned out I had the regulator turned down  Cranked up the pressure to where it was supposed to be and it happily sheared the lug stud off like it was made of chinesium.
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Mar 7, 2014 01:26
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Speaking of harbor freight this Friday-Sunday the 3 ton jack is down to $70. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68048-7788.html#.UxmwIYXwtLM
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Mar 7, 2014 12:43
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Gonna preach for a minute here, since I am a retard and should learn to follow safety procedures more. I have used angle grinders 1000s of times and know how to not maim myself, despite my lapse in judgement today. At work today, I had to do some cutting with an angle grinder, and got extremely lucky that I didn't maim myself worse. Mistake #1: After seeing that the only grinder available to me didn't have a guard, I chose to use it anyway. Mistake #2: I was wearing those thin fabric gloves with the palm dipped in rubber for grip, and they were the wrong gloves for power tool use. Mistake #3: I was/am very complacent around angle grinders since I have used them so much, and don't take much time to think about what I am doing while using one, aside from getting a good cut. I finished my cut, and was reaching with my thumb to turn off the grinder when I moved my index fingat for some reason and put it right against the blade. It cut all the way to the bone, but I am lucky that it didn't get me worse. Injury is worse than the pic shows, nms for a little blood.  http://i.imgur.com/7jKScKD.jpg Today's lesson: Don't be like me, use these tools with the utmost care.
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Mar 8, 2014 07:21
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My electrical box was getting kind of full and I wanted a place to consolodate some computer hardware. I heard about using a fishing tackle box for tools, so I picked one up. Fairly happy how it worked out. I can organize bits and cables and there is plenty of space in the bottom for my multimeter and bigger tools. I think I'm going to take a Dremel to the bottom tray and cut away some of the dividers to fit my pliers and soldering iron and such up there. I'm a little concerned about tipping, however. The stuff in the lower two trays should be secure, but I'm keeping plugs, splices, and screws in baggies in the top tray so they don't go flying all over.
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Mar 9, 2014 01:42
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 08:34 |
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Now I know what I'm doing with all my soldering and other general electronics poo poo. That's so much better than trying in vain to keep it all organized in a cardboard box. Thanks for the tip!
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Mar 9, 2014 01:45
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