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Are you planning on using the gopro wifi link to get an idea of your shot or equipping some fpv gear? I'd be tempted into DJI's lightbridge and a 3d camera joystick on the ground if photography was my thing. Though I suspect even with altitude and heading hold you would still need a second person to effectively operate the camera controller.
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Mar 2, 2014 19:05
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No I don't have any plans for the GP wifi. I will be using 2.3ghz video and have a switch to change between the flight camera and the GoPro's live feed. I've seen some impressive single-man filming done with this combo. I also want to be able to have decent long range capability and will be using my Rangelink UHF. My friend is building a hex and I think that's a better candidate for the two-man filming setup. It would need a 3-axis gimbal and retracting landing gear for starters, not that that would be impossible to add to this quad or anything.
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Mar 2, 2014 19:38
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How do you get a live feed from the GoPro without the wifi? I didn't know that was possible.
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Mar 2, 2014 20:33
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Gopro has analog video out and you simply plug it into a FPV video transmitter. You can run two cameras by having an RC switch like this : https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29651__Hobbyking_3_Channel_FPV_Video_Switcher.html It's useful if you want to see how your shot looks on a Gimballed Gopro but still be able to pilot the ship FPV w/ a fixed camera. ease fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Mar 2, 2014 |
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Mar 2, 2014 20:34
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Yep that's what I'll be doing. The Tarot gimbal has an accessory plug that lets you get video signal out as well as charge the GoPro in flight from your flight pack. My gf got me a GoPro 3+ Black for my birthday, my drat APM needs to get here so I can finally use this stuff! I also ordered a couple zoom lenses for the FPV cams like this one: http://www.securitycamera2000.com/products/1%7B47%7D3%27%27-2.8mm%252d12mm-MTV-Manual-Zoom-Manual-Focal-LENS.html I'm hoping I can make a servo setup that will control both zoom and focus the lens. I will also probably have to build a custom gimbal for it.
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Mar 3, 2014 22:09
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Vitamin J posted:Here's my latest toy, a Tarot 650. Building this to try and do some professional photo work, filming, and sightseeing. Just waiting on my APM 2.5 to come on it's way from Hobbyking. Some people have been getting insane flight times on this frame. I am hoping to get some really good times of at least 30 mins of normal flight (not hover) on these T-Motor 3110 470kv with 16x5 props and 2x 5000mah 4S. I bought the GoPro3 gimbal...but I don't have a GP3 yet lol. I like this frame because it looks high tech and professional (won't get the hairy eyeball from potential customers as if I pulled out a home-build quad) and it folds up small enough to fit in the trunk of my Miata! It's also large enough to take a DSLR in the future. Thats a cool frame. I'm pretty much planning a do over on my quad so I'm keen to see how you go. Any reason why you didn't go for a hex when you are building something that big already? I finally received my TBS groundstation that had been missing in the post for a couple of weeks. It looks like a solid product. I modded my dvr to have an RJ45 cable on it so its a single cable connection. I just need to rig something a bit less ghetto for the antenna. I'll probably print a bracket with a swivel in it so I can point the antenna independently from the screen.  
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Mar 4, 2014 01:53
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I went with the quad mainly for price, less parts. Also I got everything at a discount and I would have had to pay full price for a hex frame. You're flying from the screen? You will definitely want it independent from the antenna for sure. You will have to position the screen mainly in regards to the sun's glare which doesn't always line up with the direction of flight.
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Mar 4, 2014 15:55
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Vitamin J posted:I went with the quad mainly for price, less parts. Also I got everything at a discount and I would have had to pay full price for a hex frame. No the screen is only a backup / bystander screen. I have dominators that plug in with the black RJ45 in the photo. The screen on this is big enough to use as a backup but I wouldn't want to fly only with it. It is a crazy bright LCD compared to my RMRC 8" monitor so It probably could handle a fair bit of direct sunlight?
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Mar 4, 2014 16:33
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I've been flying with my 1.3 rx wired to a 5.8 tx so my goggles are still wireless. It's kind of a pain when you are flying with other people but it's doable.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:47
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ease posted:I've been flying with my 1.3 rx wired to a 5.8 tx so my goggles are still wireless. It's kind of a pain when you are flying with other people but it's doable. I've thought about doing a 5.8 relay to my goggles. The TBS groundstation has plug and play port for a 5.8 vtx so it would be super easy. I haven't bought a 5.8 goggle rx module yet though. Wireless would be nice for launching when I'm by myself.
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Mar 4, 2014 18:05
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I've recently fallen back down into a multicopter hole, so I've been rebuilding everything and trying to get back up to speed.... Does anyone know how the Arducopter software is looking nowadays? I was annoyed with it for a while after one of my copters lost it's poo poo and crashed pretty badly, and then more so after digging into the terrible source code. I have an older APM 2.0, which I might try to upgrade by removing the original magnetometer and hacking on an external one...but it might be easier just to buy the ArduFlyer clone from rctimer (since then everything is connected with nice and neat connectors). Anyone tried one of these?
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Mar 4, 2014 20:43
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Slanderer posted:I've recently fallen back down into a multicopter hole, so I've been rebuilding everything and trying to get back up to speed.... Its pretty good these days. I'm using an rctimer apm 2.5 with onbord magentometer. I'm thinking of getting the cn06 plus gps with magentometer board which is supposed to give a pretty big improvement.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:05
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mashed_penguin posted:Its pretty good these days. I'm using an rctimer apm 2.5 with onbord magentometer. I'm thinking of getting the cn06 plus gps with magentometer board which is supposed to give a pretty big improvement. Cool, thanks. I guess I can risk taking another chance with it. Also, I got around to rebuilding my tricopter from way back. I thought it had originally shook itself to pieces in the air because of badly balanced propellers or issues with the KK2.0 controller, but after putting it back together again I figured out that one of the motors was actually defective. It was an annoying failure mode---the motor spins up just fine without a propeller, and doesn't seem to make any weird noises that could go along with a bad bearing. But once you put a propeller on it, the motor takes a bit more throttle to get spinning, and then once it does it stops spinning and starts jerking around once the throttle gets above a certain point. I never tried this test on the ground (not with props on), as I didn't want to get another 12 stitches in my fingers. But once it gets in the air and I increase the throttle / the flight controller increases the throttle, poo poo gets hosed. After ruling out the ESC and replacing the motor, it flew with the default PID controller settings on the KK2. I still need to actually tune it, but just increasing the P gain was enough to get it stable enough to fly around the park.  bonus pic: BATTLE MODE TRICOPTER 
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Mar 4, 2014 21:25
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Slanderer posted:It was an annoying failure mode---the motor spins up just fine without a propeller, and doesn't seem to make any weird noises that could go along with a bad bearing. But once you put a propeller on it, the motor takes a bit more throttle to get spinning, and then once it does it stops spinning and starts jerking around once the throttle gets above a certain point. This symptom describes what happened to my motor after it overheated. The resin that holds the windings starts to melt, allowing arcs between the windings once it reaches a high enough voltage (high enough throttle position). This shorts out windings in bad places causing lurching. This was complimented by a strong smell of blue smoke and it threw sparks. It definitely seems like defective manufacturing could give you the same symptoms if the windings weren't done right.
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Mar 5, 2014 03:37
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You might try re-winding the stator.
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Mar 5, 2014 04:36
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Slanderer posted:It was an annoying failure mode---the motor spins up just fine without a propeller, and doesn't seem to make any weird noises that could go along with a bad bearing. But once you put a propeller on it, the motor takes a bit more throttle to get spinning, and then once it does it stops spinning and starts jerking around once the throttle gets above a certain point. It could also be a faulty or intermittent motor connection. Make sure those are secure and re-sweat the bullet solder joints if necessary.
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Mar 5, 2014 04:55
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darknrgy posted:This symptom describes what happened to my motor after it overheated. The resin that holds the windings starts to melt, allowing arcs between the windings once it reaches a high enough voltage (high enough throttle position). This shorts out windings in bad places causing lurching. This was complimented by a strong smell of blue smoke and it threw sparks. It definitely seems like defective manufacturing could give you the same symptoms if the windings weren't done right. There would have to be some other failure to cause that--the "enamel" coating on the stator wire should have a much higher dielectric breakdown voltage. The fact that it only malfunctions when a propeller is attached means something, but I'm not sure what. CrazyLittle posted:You might try re-winding the stator. I might try that one weekend when I'm bored, but one of the good things about getting such cheap motors is that the cost of a replacement is way less than the value of my time to repair it. Specifically, I'm using: http://www.rctimer.com/product_123.html I got 6 of them on a whim at one point (really not sure why...maybe as part of a package deal?). When I got my tricopter kit, I chose those only because I didn't have the hardware to mount the DT-750 motors I also have around. They seem to work well enough, despite the quality issues.
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Mar 5, 2014 05:08
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Wojcigitty posted:It could also be a faulty or intermittent motor connection. Make sure those are secure and re-sweat the bullet solder joints if necessary. I'm pretty confident with my solder joints, but mistakes happen.. I've also had problems with the soldered connections to the stator coils a few times in the past with other motors. I might as well check all of the joints, though...thanks!
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Mar 5, 2014 05:13
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Slanderer posted:There would have to be some other failure to cause that--the "enamel" coating on the stator wire should have a much higher dielectric breakdown voltage. The fact that it only malfunctions when a propeller is attached means something, but I'm not sure what. All that stuff can melt and allow the wires to short out. There's more power and higher voltage going through the motor when the prop is on. Not trying to argue with you, I just know that is what happened to my motor. I took it apart and could visually see where it was shorting out. I didn't try mine without the prop, but I could get the motor up to about 1/4 throttle and it worked fine. Past that, it would short out internally. In any case, I'm only sharing this because I thought it was interesting. Just tossing out ideas of what might have happened to your motor. You're absolutely right that the cost of these motors makes it impractical to try and repair them in a lot of cases (other than bent shafts and whatnot).
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Mar 6, 2014 02:57
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darknrgy posted:All that stuff can melt and allow the wires to short out. There's more power and higher voltage going through the motor when the prop is on. Not trying to argue with you, I just know that is what happened to my motor. I took it apart and could visually see where it was shorting out. I didn't try mine without the prop, but I could get the motor up to about 1/4 throttle and it worked fine. Past that, it would short out internally. I will echo this, I have had motors that ran fine with no props on them but when the current went up with a prop they would short and stutter. I also had some that would short and stutter once they warmed up. These would also often have no visual signs of shorting. I have blown up a lot of motors.
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Mar 6, 2014 03:11
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Today the judge ruling in Trappy's case versus the FAA dismissed the case and the $10,000 fine totally. The judgement found that the FAA has no authority to regulate commercial use of UAVs until they release their congress-mandated rules in 2015 or later. The floodgates are open now. http://motherboard.vice.com/read/commercial-drones-are-completely-legal-a-federal-judge-ruled quote:For the moment, commercial drones are, unequivocally, legal in American skies after a federal judge has ruled that the Federal Aviation Administration has not made any legally binding rules against it.
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Mar 7, 2014 06:29
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Vitamin J posted:The floodgates are open now. 
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Mar 7, 2014 06:32
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I was right about something for once! Honestly, this might be the most exciting thing to happen in the industry in years.
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Mar 7, 2014 06:59
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Hot drat. That's awesome!
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Mar 7, 2014 08:08
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Awesome! At least there is a legal precedence to lean on (for a while anyway) now.
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Mar 7, 2014 15:24
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Yep it's pretty amazing news. I thought the case would drag out forever until they finally had rules but I'm glad the judge acted decisively. If you read the judgement, it specifically mentions that the FAA has no authority to stop anybody from flying UAVs for commercial purposes and also that the only document the FAA has related to UAV operations is the AC 91-57, the guidelines for model aircraft which are totally voluntary and non-binding.
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Mar 7, 2014 15:44
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Its pretty awesome. Hopefully the result isn't knee jerk rushed regulations that are overly restrictive. This really does make the FAA look like a bunch of bads. The tears must be flowing on RC Groups right now.
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Mar 7, 2014 16:35
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The first time a commercial photography drone falls out of the sky over a crowded stadium or concert and kills someone things will change in a bad way...
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Mar 7, 2014 17:34
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Slanderer posted:The first time a commercial photography drone falls out of the sky over a crowded stadium or concert and kills someone things will change in a bad way... They are still going to make regulations. Its not going to be a wild west for long. Now the FAA will be forced to pull its thumb out of its rear end and make regulations rather than telling everyone to wait.
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Mar 7, 2014 17:51
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Vitamin J posted:If you read the judgement, it specifically mentions that the FAA has no authority to stop anybody from flying UAVs for commercial purposes and also that the only document the FAA has related to UAV operations is the AC 91-57, the guidelines for model aircraft which are totally voluntary and non-binding. The way I read it, the judge said the FAA can't just pick and choose what they classify as a "model" (completely unregulated) or a "UAV" (special exemptions) or a "commercial aircraft" (fully regulated) arbitrarily, and that their more recent "Notice" bulletins don't carry any enforceable weight because they skipped the regular legislative process for FAA regulations. So in other words: Until the FAA passes real rules (2015) you're fine flying model craft for pay.
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Mar 7, 2014 18:16
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Slanderer posted:The first time a commercial photography drone falls out of the sky over a crowded stadium or concert and kills someone things will change in a bad way... This ruling doesn't impact state Trespassing laws, so either that stadium/concert would have to approve its use or the pilot can still be at fault for injury.
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Mar 7, 2014 19:18
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Yeah, Just because the FAA can't fine you for it doesn't mean you won't be held liable for damages/injury. I'm still a pessimist and think that the FAA's gonna pass SOME regulations that preempt a drone free-for-all. Maybe licensing or registration of some kind.
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Mar 7, 2014 21:42
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I do understand why the FAA took the position it did, the potential for these cheap UAVs to blot out the sun seems to keep advancing. I'm sure that these things will be falling out of the sky in record numbers. They already are! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8T7Ms8OI3Q
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Mar 7, 2014 21:45
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I've just bought a little quadcopter to do a play around with some video stuff. Rather than the legal worries about the FAA, I was wondering what people do in regards to light aircraft? I fly and often pootle around 500-1000 feet AGL, I imagine one could do a lot of expensive damage in an impact.
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Mar 8, 2014 00:17
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Colonel K posted:I've just bought a little quadcopter to do a play around with some video stuff. Rather than the legal worries about the FAA, I was wondering what people do in regards to light aircraft? I fly and often pootle around 500-1000 feet AGL, I imagine one could do a lot of expensive damage in an impact. First, learn how to read a sectional map : http://skyvector.com/ Never fly anywhere near an airport at any altitude higher than the treetops.
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Mar 8, 2014 00:40
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ease posted:First, learn how to read a sectional map : http://skyvector.com/ Sorry I've realised I wasn't very clear, I'm a PPL and regularly fly my aircraft around at those heights. My concern was more about others who could potentially be flying around in the same airspace. I'm not sure how easy See and avoid would be for small FPV aircraft.
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Mar 8, 2014 00:48
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.......
ease fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 8, 2014 00:57
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CrazyLittle posted:yeah, get one of these Turnigy RTF quads (where the parts are pretty good) Just purchased that. Thanks for the recommendation. Anything else I should know?
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Mar 8, 2014 01:04
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front wing flexing posted:Just purchased that. Thanks for the recommendation. Anything else I should know? The motors, props, ESCs are all decent quality, so as long as they're not broken from a crash you should be able to just move them over to a new frame if you break one of the frame's arms. The frame this RTF quad is built on is Hobbyking's "SK450" frame. The SK450 arms are really flexy compared to genuine DJI arms which are much much stiffer. The KK2.0 board is decent to get started with. Read all the manuals you can get your hands on. Since you already have a Spektrum DX6i radio, I would suggest that you get a 5-6 channel spektrum receiver and ditch the packaged one the RTF quad comes with. But that's all personal preference really. You're more than welcome to try flying with the cheap pre-packaged radio. Even if you ditch the hobbyking radio, hold onto the it and receiver because you can always make a disposable foamy plane with it later on and give it to a friend.
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Mar 8, 2014 01:47
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CrazyLittle posted:The motors, props, ESCs are all decent quality, so as long as they're not broken from a crash you should be able to just move them over to a new frame if you break one of the frame's arms. The frame this RTF quad is built on is Hobbyking's "SK450" frame. The SK450 arms are really flexy compared to genuine DJI arms which are much much stiffer. The KK2.0 board is decent to get started with. Read all the manuals you can get your hands on. Since you already have a Spektrum DX6i radio, I would suggest that you get a 5-6 channel spektrum receiver and ditch the packaged one the RTF quad comes with. But that's all personal preference really. You're more than welcome to try flying with the cheap pre-packaged radio. Even if you ditch the hobbyking radio, hold onto the it and receiver because you can always make a disposable foamy plane with it later on and give it to a friend. I bought that extra DJI clone, is that okay? This one: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__49725__Q450_V3_Glass_Fiber_Quadcopter_Frame_450mm_Integrated_PCB_Version.html Should I swap it out right away or go with the stock frame for a little while? Also, it comes with two sets of props, one smaller and one larger, whosh one should I use do you think? And overall good to learn to fly with? Thanks for the advice.
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Mar 8, 2014 02:58
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