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Yup my 92 chevy s-10 is extended cab (referred to as "sierra cab" at that time). It has two tiny, fold-out, sideways-facing jump seats behind the front two seats, but they're dangerous and not really useable by full-sized adults. But the extended cab is super-useful for doing things like putting groceries that you don't want exposed to the weather, or having stuff locked in the car while you're away. It also has a long bed, so I can carry more poo poo. This is not my truck but it's pretty close:  That might be the short-bed, though, hard to tell with the perspective. Mine has a bed a little over 6 feet long. I'd totally buy a new truck if it were possible to buy a light, extended-cab, full-bed pickup with a v6 and 2 wheel drive in America today, but it isn't. 
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Mar 4, 2014 18:59
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Care to explain why someone in Oklahoma City needs 4wd?
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Mar 4, 2014 21:55
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I'm thinking about trading in my minivan when I go to buy. I've seen here a few times not to even mention the tradein until after negotiations. What is the reason for that? Also what are the chances of getting what I want for it? Part of the reason I want to trade it in is i don't want it sitting in my yard, I don't want to deal with tire kickers and low ballers, and it has some issues and I don't want whoever buys it coming knocking on my door when something breaks. And I don't want to put the money into it to pass inspection or register and insure it. I only want about what the kbb fair condition trade in value is (about 2000) not the private retail (3500) or dealer retail (5500) it's a 2002 Windstar SEL with Almost all the options (leather capts chairs power doors etc) plus an added remote starter w 140kish miles. The problems with it are the CEL is on (i was told it was the intake manifold part that uses vacuum to change from short to long runners for better mileage) the drivers window stopped working and the power mirrors stopped working as well. Other than the cel it runs and drives fine ,the body is pretty solid not must rust underneath and last year i had the recalls for the rear axle and front subframe done which were the only things it failed inspection for last year.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:13
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BJA posted:I'm thinking about trading in my minivan when I go to buy. I've seen here a few times not to even mention the tradein until after negotiations. What is the reason for that? There are many components to a vehicle purchase transaction, but focusing on one at a time you can pay more attention to what is going on. People still get taken advantage of though. You can spend 3 weeks emailing dealers to save that last 300 dollars on a car, but then you walk into a dealer that charges a 499 doc fee instead of the other guys 199 doc fee and you don't even notice. In the end you paid the same price, spent 3 weeks of your life haggling only to not pay attention to the doc fee at the end. Same thing for auto butler paint protection, extended warranties, whatever. Dealers are there to make money and they are very very very good at it. Make sure you negotiate the Out The Door (OTD) or driveoff price. I personally tend to look at the overall deal to be honest. The last few cars I've bought came from Dealer J. Dealer J sells cars at invoice all day every day, but they don't give you poo poo for your trade. They laugh at NADA and KBB and give less than actual cash value on their trades. Their exact words when I tried to negotiate the trade price was "that number is what it is, it's not changing". They might only make a few bucks on the new retail transaction, but they'll make it up on the trade in. My most recent car purchase at Dealer B the dealer didn't really move off the posted price of the car, but were more than happy to offer me much more than my trade in was actually worth at auction. Some people react to different negotiation tactics differently. Someone who thinks highly of their trade in car will be insulted by a low ball trade offer and see it as disrespectful. Others pride themselves on 'sticking it to the dealer' and getting the car for invoice or less while letting themselves get abused on their trade in value. At my most recent car purchase I just told the guy to 'find me another 500 dollars off and I'll sign the papers right now'. I didn't care if they gave me another 500 on the trade, came down on the price of the car 500, I just wanted another 500 off to seal the deal. Back to the actual transaction. By breaking things down step by step you can pay more attention to the details. Step 1: Negotiate the price of the car you want to buy Step 2: Negotiate trade value (to be honest you have no power in this negotiation right now, that dealer doesn't want that car at all, it's going to cost them money to get rid of probably) Step 3: Negotiate fees, add ons, etc. Everything is negotiable. Extended warranties are marked up over 100%, as are everything else you can add on to the transaction. Step 4: Negotiate financing rates Now the key to negotiation is you have to be in the power position to really get what you want. If you don't have the upper hand in the transaction, you won't have the best outcome. You can still get a very favorable outcome, just not the best. You also need to do your homework. You should be 100% informed on things like: - Your credit score and history - Average selling price of the car from some service like Edmunds or True Car - Any manufacturer rebates and incentives on the car - Extended warranties. I'm most familiar with Ford, but you don't have to buy your warranty when you first buy the car. You can add it on later and there are lots of dealers that sell extended warranties at a big discount online. Arm yourself with this information. Step 1: Negotiate the price of the car. If the car is in hot demand, the dealer isn't going to sell it to you at invoice when they can make an MSRP sale on the car tomorrow. If the car has been on the lot 90+ days, they're more inclined to sell it for less profit and move on to something else. Do your homework. Here in Texas cars get inspected when they hit the lot and have a sticker with the month and year on them. You can figure out how old a car is and how long it's been around by this sticker. My inspection sticker was 11/2014 which means the car has been on the lot since November. It's March. It's been around a while and they were more motivated to get it off the lot. Do your homework, I like to start the negotiations when I buy a car. When I bought my last new car I knew they were selling for invoice and had a 2000 dollar rebate on them, so that's where I started. "I like this car, I'll offer you 2X,XXX (invoice price minus 2000) for the car" and the process started. Once you agree to the price of the vehicle, move on to step 2. Step 2: Your trade value. If you were aggressive in step one, expect a low trade value in step 2. KBB and NADA are nice, but they're not as accurate as the auction data dealers have access to and we don't. They can see that the last 10 2009 Acura TL's at auction sold for an average of 21,000 dollars so that's where they want to be on your trade even though KBB, NADA, valueyourcar.net and everyone else says it's worth 23K. The best thing you can do is have an offer from somewhere else like CarMax, another dealer, webuyyourcar.net or whatever to counter that with or be prepared to sell private party. I never bother selling private party. It's a pain in the rear end and you save a bit on sales tax when you trade the car in. Your goal here is to get a fair deal. They're either going to sell your car at a wholesale auto auction for a wholesale price, or recondition it and try to sell it as a used car. Either way aim for a fair deal here, it's unreasonable to expect private party value or high book trade in unless the car is in high demand. Step 3: Fees and add ons. Every dealer on the planet is going to have a doc fee if they can legally get away with it. Some states regulate how much it can be. The doc fee covers all the middle aged ladies in the back office you never see that do all the paperwork and poo poo for the dealer. You can try to argue this, but it probably won't work. You won't be able to negotiate things like sales tax or any state registration/title/inspection fees, but anything else that pops up, feel free to question. I once had a dealer try to charge a 'make ready' fee which they said covered a full tank of gas and the initial detail for when the car was delivered. They struck it out pretty quickly when questioned about it. As for Add-On's, once again do your homework. If they want to sell you window tint for 299, know how much a good shop charges for it. I get my windows tinted at a nice local business and they charge me a little less than the dealer. The dealer would have matched it, but I finance my vehicles and it's loving retarded to finance a 270 dollar window tint charge and I prefer to support a locally owned business that does good work. Same thing for extended warranties, prepaid maintenance plans, road hazard, etc. You can get all that poo poo somewhere else cheaper if you want. Step 4: Financing. In a perfect world you should come ready for this part. My credit union gives me approved amounts at set interest rates to use. When you go to finance and they say great news! We got you approved at 5% interest, that's a great rate, you can tell them to gently caress off because you scored 2.65% from your credit union. Finance is one of the last places dealers have the chance to make big money off a customer and very few people even realize whats happening. Know your credit, come prepared with an independent source of financing and get the best deal possible. Interest rates are commonly 'bought up' by dealers and can give them large residual income streams from your transaction. If your credit is less than perfect though you might be at their mercy to get a deal done. I like financing, money is cheap as poo poo to borrow right now. Sub 3% is very common without factory/captive financing incentives. Try to avoid financing anything above the actual cost of the car though. I always put down at least enough to cover fees and taxes on my transactions. Situations vary though, and I've had good times and bad in my life so I won't judge if you have to finance that stuff, but try to avoid it. Why pay interest on taxes and fees? The best time to buy a car is when you DON'T need a car. You can walk away really easy from a deal you aren't happy with. I loved my last car, thought it was great, but I was in a small window where I had the opportunity to get out of it with some equity and move into something I wanted more if the right deal came along on the car I wanted. If the right deal didn't come along I was more than happy to keep driving the car I already had.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:40
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MrKatharsis posted:Care to explain why someone in Oklahoma City needs 4wd? Well, someone might want 4WD in OKC because 1) they need it for work 2) they prefer 4WD when dealing with inclement weather 3) they like the look 4) they need the additional clearance a lifted truck provides 5) they travel on non paved roads 6) prefer it with towing 7) they move frequently and want a vehicle that's capable no matter where they go 8) future proofing any of the above etc But I don't understand why you're asking me this because I don't live in Oklahoma City.
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Mar 5, 2014 01:12
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Thanks skippdog ton of useful information. I guess if they won't even give me near what I want for my trade I'll park it out front around private party value and take offers. As far as financing i went to my credit union yesterday and got a 3% loan for more than i want to spend but the dealer is saying they can get .9% or something, is it worth trying for or will they try to write stuff into the financing? Also I'm planning on buying a cpo ford so I'm not sure what they will try to sell me as addons. BJA fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Mar 5, 2014 |
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Mar 5, 2014 01:48
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I just bought a CPO Ford last weekend. They didn't try to sell me anything but an auto butler paint protection package for 595 dollars which I politely declined. Ford Credit is doing 2.9% for 60 months right now and 3.95 for 72. The CPO warranty is pretty good so there's not much to add on really.
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Mar 5, 2014 02:35
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BJA posted:Thanks skippdog ton of useful information. I guess if they won't even give me near what I want for my trade I'll park it out front around private party value and take offers. Dealer financing is not really shady if you have good credit. .9% or something is a manufacturer promotional rate. Just read the contract and you'll be fine. If they gently caress with it, you can and should tell them to go gently caress themselves.
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Mar 5, 2014 07:18
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My uncle is the stablest of stable and got a 1% loan from his credit union to buy a Porsche 993 as a retirement toy. He's mechanically handy so depending how much he bothers he might actually make money on the drat thing since it's the last air cooled "true Porsche" Not really apropos to anything just fun bfc/ai connection.
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Mar 5, 2014 15:24
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skipdogg posted:I just bought a CPO Ford last weekend. They didn't try to sell me anything but an auto butler paint protection package for 595 dollars which I politely declined. Ford Credit is doing 2.9% for 60 months right now and 3.95 for 72. The CPO warranty is pretty good so there's not much to add on really. I've been talking to them in emails since I have been too busy at work but I'm going down tomorrow. I've looked at the Ford site and read about the cpo warranty which says its 12m/12k miles full warranty and 7y/100k limited drive train. In the email they told me that for the cpos they are extending the factory bumper to bumper warranty an additional 4yr/48k miles. Is this something the dealer is doing or ford?
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Mar 5, 2014 19:45
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BJA posted:I've been talking to them in emails since I have been too busy at work but I'm going down tomorrow. I've looked at the Ford site and read about the cpo warranty which says its 12m/12k miles full warranty and 7y/100k limited drive train. In the email they told me that for the cpos they are extending the factory bumper to bumper warranty an additional 4yr/48k miles. Is this something the dealer is doing or ford? The 12mo/12k bumper to bumper will now stack on top of the original 3yr/36 bumper to bumper for cars with under 36,000 miles and less than 3 years old. Previously it did not stack. If you buy a CPO car with more than 36K miles on it, the 12mo/12K miles still applies. I bought a 2013 with 18,000 miles on it, so I should have 4 years, 48,000 miles bumper to bumper and 7 years/100K powertrain. The car was first titled 3/2012, so I'm good until 3/2016 or 48K miles. Previously since the original factory warranty still had 12 months and 12,000 miles left on it I wouldn't have seen any extra benefit. Now if someone buys my old Fusion as a CPO vehicle that was 3.5 years old but had 69,000 miles on it they'll still get 12/12 bumper to bumper and 7/100k on the power train.
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Mar 5, 2014 21:33
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I ended up buying a 2011 Prius last weekend, and it's pretty drat nice. FYI for anyone shopping, Penfed gave me a 5 year loan on the vehicle for 2.49% with no prepay. I have no military ties, but was able to join with a small (I think $25) donation. It took awhile for them to setup my account, send my online login info, etc. + you have to apply online to get their promotional rates. What I did was purchase the vehicle using Toyota Finance (they have no pre-pay penalty nor loan fee), drove it off the lot, and mailed out the info from Penfed to refinance it when it all came in. I have good credit, but it's a used vehicle, and the rate with Toyota was 5.25%. Over the course of 5 years I'll save just over $1,000 in interest by refinancing.
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Mar 6, 2014 23:52
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Nice! I fantasize about buying a car for a really low price but at some terrifying interest rate, so the dealership thinks they're coming out ahead then paying the entire loan off the next day.
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Mar 6, 2014 23:59
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My grandparents did that with one of their cars. Talked the dealer way down by agreeing to finance, then walked in the week after with a certified check for the balance. It was a beautiful thing.
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Mar 7, 2014 02:03
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That's loving awesome, I'd love to hear more stories about that.
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Mar 7, 2014 02:48
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The car was a Jaguar XK, which I think they ended up getting out the door for a little under 85k, and when the owner of the dealership found out about it he personally called them at home and bitched at them about it. So when they decided to trade it this year, instead of getting an F-Type like they were considering they went and got an E class cab. Funnily enough they were somehow still invited to the launch party at the dealership so they brought their new merc and almost ran the owner of the dealership down. My grandmother gives no shits.
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Mar 7, 2014 03:48
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Xguard86 posted:Nice! This is why prepayment penalties exist. Read your loan paperwork!
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Mar 7, 2014 04:08
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plester1 posted:This is why prepayment penalties exist. Read your loan paperwork! Pretty sure that's completely illegal in my state. YMMV. On my (usurious because my credit is garbage from lovely student loans that amounted to nothing useful; don't go to law school, folks) loan I could pay it off tomorrow with no penalties if I had the cash on hand.
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Mar 7, 2014 04:16
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plester1 posted:This is why prepayment penalties exist. Read your loan paperwork! Also loan fees. There was another lender I could have went with willing to loan to me in the 4% range, but they had a $200 loan fee (origination fee).
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Mar 7, 2014 13:57
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nm posted:Dealer financing is not really shady if you have good credit. .9% or something is a manufacturer promotional rate. Just read the contract and you'll be fine. If they gently caress with it, you can and should tell them to go gently caress themselves. It's worth it to keep in mind that subsidized loan rates are another form of incentive spend, so usually you'll see "0.9%/mo 60 mos or $1,200 mfr rebate" so you can either pick the subsidized rate or take the cash on the hood incentive. A lot of factors can go in to this. In general, if you plan to pay off perfectly on schedule, take the rate. If you plan to pay off early, BYO Financing and take the cash. But you should figure out what makes the most sense to you.
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Mar 7, 2014 23:00
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Proposed Budget: $5-7,000 New or Used: used Body Style: four door or wagon or 5-door hatch How will you be using the car?: Daily driver, 50 miles per day max Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? not at this price range, but an AUX or USB connection would be nice. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, MPG, and insurance costs The gf is selling her car on Monday and needs to find a new one to replace so she doesn't have to drive my car for too long. She's limited her choices down to early 2000 Civics, Corollas or a 2004-2006 Focus. I know the 2001-2002 Civics have the transmission issues, but other than that are there any issues to be aware of or cars to consider? The plan is to drive the car for 12-18 months and then buy a truck, so resale value is a factor in the decision. We live in Austin so there's a good amount of used inventory to choose from. Any thoughts on getting a Civic that has had the transmission replaced?
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Mar 8, 2014 07:16
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Proposed Budget: $4-$8000 New or Used: Used Body Style: Coupe, Hatchback, Compact SUV or Wagon How will you be using the car?: Commuting ~40 miles daily, occasional road trips What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, driving experience, not looking like dog poo poo, possible modding Being the youngest, I inherited the family van when my parents got a new car. I got a 2000 Ford Windstar that just wouldn't die, even though all 3 kids learned how to drive in it and it has 150k on it. The thing hemorrhages oil, it just randomly dies, the transmission skips, the suspension literally snapped in half last winter and by some unholy power, it still makes my commute. That horrible beast is eating half of my paychecks in gas, which I wouldn't mind if it weren't a rolling pile rust that is about as much fun to drive as it is to look at. It has to go. If it were up to me, I would get an old Wrangler YJ or Cherokee XJ and play around with that until I got a real job and real money to buy an actually good car, but my parents are footing half of the bill, so they say it has to be a not-Jeep that is most of all, reliable. For my input, I want it to be fun to drive, like my girlfriend's 525i or my mom's Outback, have a manual transmission and not look like every other boring civic/passat/corolla/etc on the road I've been looking at Impreza hatchbacks, protoge5's, gti's, tiburons and elantras, but I'm not sure what would actually be reliable and realistically within my budget E: clarity and I'm in Chicago, if that matters The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 10, 2014 21:34
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2006-8 Mazda RX8
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Mar 11, 2014 07:42
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Throatwarbler posted:2006-8 Mazda RX8 I do love the idea of a rotary engine..... What's the maintenance on those like?
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Mar 11, 2014 07:51
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http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?listingId=118816623&searchType=94&tracktype=usedcc This is the only one in my area that isn't hilariously overpriced, and maybe a fifth of the online reviews said that they had complete engine failures
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Mar 11, 2014 16:47
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Proposed Budget: $6000-$12000 New or Used: Used Body Style: Coupe or Sedan(Preferably compact sedan, but that's not a hard limit) How will you be using the car?: Commuting to work ~8 miles round trip. The biggest usage it would ever see would be occasional trips From Akron to Cleveland for Browns games and family events, but that would be max 10 trips in a year most likely. What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, safety I'm a new driver buying my first car. It's a little bit daunting and I'd like to be able to just get it over and done with. The main models I've been exploring have been Ford Focus, Chevy Malibu, Nissan Altima, but am completely open to suggestions. My choices mainly from good experience driving 3 different Focuses and my friend's Altima and being suggested the Malibu by 2 different friends. At first I was pretty dead set on getting a newer model Focus, but I had one of my friends go nuts about it being a terrible choice and wanted to at research it/shop around more. In a perfect world, I'd like to be able to buy a vehicle cash($7000 is my absolute max in that case) and not have to worry about a car payment, but really wouldn't have a problem with up to about $200/mo in payments. I'd like to get something a bit on the small side, as my apartment and office both have annoying, cramped parking lots. wilderthanmild fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 19:33
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I had a Malibu as a rental for a week or so and it was godawful. Press on the gas pedal and nothing happens for about 3 seconds, making you look like that retard who isn't paying attention at every stoplight. God help you if you're trying to turn into traffic from a stop, you'll have to wait for a mile-long gap and make everyone behind you hate you.
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Mar 11, 2014 20:06
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Mazda 3 or Ford Focus seems most in line with what you want, you could get either up front with what you've got if you're ok with an older model. There's nothing wrong with Altimas, but they're a normal size sedan. The Focus and 3 fit small parking spaces a lot easier. As always, go drive the ones you haven't and see what you prefer.
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Mar 11, 2014 20:58
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wilderthanmild posted:Proposed Budget: $6000-$12000 Get a Focus, they should be astoundingly cheap. A coworker of mine just got a brand new 2014 automatic hatchback off the lot for under $15k, so I'd bet you can find 1 or 2 year old sedan ones for $12k.
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Mar 11, 2014 21:11
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The Door Frame posted:http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?listingId=118816623&searchType=94&tracktype=usedcc If you are looking at dealerships, the rx-8 is always hilariously overpriced. Not only that, but I would stay away from dealerships when it comes to rotary engines. You wanna meet the person and know how he's been taking care of the car. Does he change his oil every 3000 miles? Did he change out his spark plugs/wires/ignition coils every 30000 miles? Did he get the trans and diff fluid changed every 3000 miles? Those are the normal things that need to be taken care of with this car. It really boils down to if you take care of the car it won't break down on you too often. But you need to be willing to do everything yourself because a mechanic is gonna charge an arm and a leg to fix certain things.
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Mar 11, 2014 21:19
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HolyDukeNukem posted:If you are looking at dealerships, the rx-8 is always hilariously overpriced. Not only that, but I would stay away from dealerships when it comes to rotary engines. You wanna meet the person and know how he's been taking care of the car. Does he change his oil every 3000 miles? Did he change out his spark plugs/wires/ignition coils every 30000 miles? Did he get the trans and diff fluid changed every 3000 miles? Those are the normal things that need to be taken care of with this car. It really boils down to if you take care of the car it won't break down on you too often. But you need to be willing to do everything yourself because a mechanic is gonna charge an arm and a leg to fix certain things. Yeah, the private sellers are even worse http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/4336390609.html http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/cto/4366540293.html For whatever reason, chicago is not friendly to the rotary engine Any other suggestions?
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Mar 11, 2014 21:33
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Yeah, don't buy an Rx-8.
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Mar 11, 2014 22:51
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The Door Frame posted:Proposed Budget: $4-$8000 You say "coupe", what about a Miata? You could probably get a hardtop in that budget, but a convertible with a hardtop is still nowhere near as comfortable or isolated from the environment as a coupe. Are first-gen Mazdaspeed 3s under $8k yet? They're not as reliable as Miatas though.
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Mar 11, 2014 22:56
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nwin posted:Definitely noted on the Highlander- I asked the question in AI and someone said it wouldn't be a problem to tow it, but then I asked here and started doing some research and...yeah. Just an update and looking for more info...still got a while to buy as we'll probably just sell the CR-V once we get up to where we're going, but anyways... We test drove a bunch of stuff lately. GMC Acadia, Chevy Transverse, Buick Enclave, Toyota Highlander, Acura MDX, and the Ford Explorer. Ford Explorer is the wife's favorite. It's got all the gadgets she wants, plus it's a cargo room upgrade for us, so it looks like that one is winning. We're looking at anywhere from a 2011-2013 XLT or Limited (these all have heated seats, rearview camera, bluetooth hands free phone, etc.). We're still trying to keep under 25k, but I could probably afford to go up to about 28k before taxes, etc. (I hadn't figured in tax, title, license, here in Texas prior, which is gonna be about an extra 1500-2k). Any huge things to look out for in these years?
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Mar 11, 2014 23:05
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nwin posted:Just an update and looking for more info...still got a while to buy as we'll probably just sell the CR-V once we get up to where we're going, but anyways... My wife has had 2 Explorers in the last few years. We leased a 2012 XLT with the common 202A package (leather, MFT, etc) about 3 years ago and put 25,000 miles on it. Mechanically it was problem free. To the best of my current knowledge the 3.5L Duratec engine and the 6Fxx transmission is a very solid drive train that will last a long time with factory recommended maintenance. Our biggest issue was the My Ford Touch system. Everything is controlled through it and the 3.x software had some issues that really started pissing us off. It would just crash while you're driving down the road and then you can't change any of the settings on the HVAC or Radio. Sometimes turning the car on/off again would fix it, but twice I had to disconnect the battery to correct the issue. The most recent update seems to have fixed the issues, but we traded the lease in early on a 2014 Ford Explorer Sport and hot drat is that car awesome. We've only had it 6 months but we love it so much we'll probably buy it at lease end unless there's a newer version out. I love the Ford Explorer and I only have 2 bad things to say about it. 1: The gas mileage is terrible. I never saw better than 15MPG city and 21HWY in that car. We get the same MPG or better with the twin turbo EcoBoost engine in the Sport. It's a big car and the 3.5L has to work hard around town to move that kind of mass. I personally would avoid any of the 2.0L Ecoboost Explorers. There's a reason they only sold them for a year with that power train configuration. It seemed like a good idea, but real world driving was terrible. 2: The My Ford Touch system wasn't that great in the first couple of years. I hope they've fixed the software by now, but it's a very polarizing love/hate thing. I personally like it, I have it in our both of our cars and haven't had problems. Other people hate it with a fiery passion. Make sure if you buy one the software is at the latest version. If it isn't, make the dealer do it, the upgrade process is literally "start car, stick thumbdrive in usb port, leave car running for up to 90 minutes while software updates". Let them do it on their gas not yours. The version we have is Gen2-V3.6.2 We love our Ford Explorer. It suits our needs perfectly as a family of 4 that quite a few road trips every year. My wife loves it and wouldn't even consider changing vehicles when we decided to trade the 2012 Explorer in early. I was pushing for a new Honda Odyssey Touring or a Sienna Limited, but she didn't want to drive a minivan.
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Mar 12, 2014 00:44
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skipdogg posted:My wife has had 2 Explorers in the last few years. We leased a 2012 XLT with the common 202A package (leather, MFT, etc) about 3 years ago and put 25,000 miles on it. Mechanically it was problem free. To the best of my current knowledge the 3.5L Duratec engine and the 6Fxx transmission is a very solid drive train that will last a long time with factory recommended maintenance. Great info-Thank you! I read some of the edmunds reviews and I see plenty of the 'people either love or hate My Ford Touch'. Admittedly, we didn't play with it that much save for changing the radio station and the a/c temp, but it worked fine for the few minutes we were test driving. Might go and test drive another and have the wife really try and mess with the system, though. I am glad to know that software updates are easy enough...so you're saying you can download it yourself to a thumb drive and install them when software updates come? I'll google how to check for the latest version, but I just want to make sure if we buy one, we won't have to bring the car in for every update on our dime... We are looking at the V6 and I figured as much about MPG. One thing though-I'm looking at a used 2WD to save some money/maintenance costs. We'll be living in New England and I plan on buying some decent all season tires at the least. If we get decent tires, will the 2wd hinder us at all? Keep in mind that we will never ever go off road.
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Mar 12, 2014 01:13
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Proposed Budget: Approximately $25k New or Used: Used Body Style: NEEDS to be All-Wheel Drive. I'd prefer a sedan, as I'm garaging my pick up for starting to literally guzzling gas. (18 - 20L/100 Kilometers!) How will you be using the car?: Commuting (Long hauls to remote work-sites (3 - 5 hours one way, every few days) What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability. This car will be getting a lot of miles on it. Where I live is pretty god-drat remote, so if it breaks down, I'm usually looking at a two week waiting period for parts. Gas mileage isn't even a big concern; the smaller size of vehicle will cut the fuel bill down. I'm really leaning between the Mitsubishi Raliart and the Ford Taurus. DOes anybody have any input/owner ship experiences with either of these?
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Mar 12, 2014 04:59
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Just buy a new CVT impreza
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Mar 12, 2014 05:21
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Evilpiggie posted:Proposed Budget: Approximately $25k They sold literally dozens of those Ralliarts, you'll never get parts for it ever, even if Mitsubishi doesn't pull out of the market entirely and you lived next to one of the 6 dealers they have across the country. Consider the Buick Lacrosse AWD? It's probably not substantially better than the Taurus in any way but it does have a longer warranty and GM's general build quality is marginally better than Ford's these days. If you don't need such a big car a Fusion or a Legacy can be had, and a non-turbo CVT Legacy should be pretty reliable.
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Mar 12, 2014 05:22
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IRQ posted:Mazda 3 or Ford Focus seems most in line with what you want, you could get either up front with what you've got if you're ok with an older model. Twerk from Home posted:Get a Focus, they should be astoundingly cheap. A coworker of mine just got a brand new 2014 automatic hatchback off the lot for under $15k, so I'd bet you can find 1 or 2 year old sedan ones for $12k. Aquatic Giraffe posted:I had a Malibu as a rental for a week or so and it was godawful. Press on the gas pedal and nothing happens for about 3 seconds, making you look like that retard who isn't paying attention at every stoplight. God help you if you're trying to turn into traffic from a stop, you'll have to wait for a mile-long gap and make everyone behind you hate you. wilderthanmild fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 05:39
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