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It isn't bad, it still handles like a dream; just gutless. They have their fair shake of issues, but a running 1.6L shouldn't be a ticking time bomb.
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Mar 12, 2014 05:15
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Hog Obituary posted:When the swap alone is going to cost you $9k, it doesn't really seem worthwhile unless you're truly in love with a k-series or really really hate forced induction. People have been talking up putting K series into S2000s for a bit now too
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Mar 12, 2014 05:38
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Joe Mama posted:You're forgetting trans, diff, etc. etc. You need to beef up just about everything related to the driveline. The full kit from Flyin Miata, without engine, is well into the teens give or take some stuff Either way, who cares. Putting a K series into a Miata for that kind of money is god drat stupid, just buy a loving S2000 if you want one it's a better car anyway!
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Mar 12, 2014 06:01
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Nodoze posted:People have been talking up putting K series into S2000s for a bit now too Wait what? How is this a remotely productive thing to do?
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Mar 12, 2014 07:24
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Hog Obituary posted:Wait what? How is this a remotely productive thing to do? More tuning options to make power without going to FI and cheaper to replace in the event of failure. Similar to a BP, it's tough to squeeze extra power out of an F20 without going to a turbo/SC
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Mar 12, 2014 07:57
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 I guess I know more about Hondas than I'd like to admit.So the S2000 is expensive. The F20/22C is expensive. It's impressive, but expensive. K24s on the other hand are dirt cheap because they're in Accords everywhere, also, they make significantly more torque than the F motor. They're also easy to coax more power out of either N/A or FI. So cheaper and more area under the curve, but you can't rev it up to 9k. Seems like a decent trade off to me. leica: $9k is fairly reasonable and other options for $9k include built VVT motor swaps or a turbo system that's worth a drat (inconel, bottom mount, etc).
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Mar 12, 2014 12:32
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EbolaIvory posted:Bad paint? Long as its mechanically ok I dont care if it looks like poo poo. Hell I'll rattle can it for all I care. I just need a drivetrain that runs and isnt rusted to poo poo. There are a few NA 1.6s in my extended family and I've never seen any major issues with them. The two items that do come to mind are spark wires need to be changed regularly and there's an oil return line seal that can leak (a DIY repair). These cars are super cheap to run. Outside of the mechanical stuff the drains can clog if allowed to gather junk, and dirt can also build up behind the front mud flaps, both causing rust, but most people know to look for rust free bodies.
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Mar 12, 2014 15:01
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I take comfort in the fact that running replacement 1.6s can usually be had for a 6 pack of beer if you are persistent in your search. I guess if I had an automatic I would want a 1.8. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a cheap 1.6 at all even short nose crank ones, which I own. A proper sports cars has 70hp anyway, these have much more.
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Mar 12, 2014 16:19
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If that crank nose thing would have been a real issue involving anything past poor maintenance work, it would have been mentioned a lot earlier. I think even the B3 from the Festiva and the B6 SOHC from the 323/Familia/everything have the same crank design and you don't see the millions of those sitting in yards with busted crank keyways. (I've seen a few but not many).
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Mar 12, 2014 16:26
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DJ Commie posted:If that crank nose thing would have been a real issue involving anything past poor maintenance work, it would have been mentioned a lot earlier. I think even the B3 from the Festiva and the B6 SOHC from the 323/Familia/everything have the same crank design and you don't see the millions of those sitting in yards with busted crank keyways. (I've seen a few but not many). Maybe it's because people actually give a poo poo about their little Miata friend, whereas the payday loan clients who still own 323s are driving them into the ground before replacing them with a buy-here-pay-here 2001 Cavalier? 
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Mar 12, 2014 16:35
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Phone posted:
I still don't see the cost advantage over just keeping the BP and working with that. 9k plus the cost of a Miata you're into S2000 teritorry which is a better car overall. It just doesn't make sense to me. I know I was off on the cost of an LS swap, but if I was going to swap in a different motor it sure as hell wouldn't be another 4 cylinder, if I'm going to go through the trouble it would have to be a V6 or V8. I suppose it might make sense for dedicated track cars that go through motors, but for the street or occasional track use it's pointless imo.
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Mar 12, 2014 17:15
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You were off on the LS swap by a factor of 2 or 3. The BP is awful to spin up and the peak numbers N/A using a intake manifold top off around 160-175whp depending how much money you have in it and how high you're spinning it. But spinning motors at 7k+ gets expensive fast no matter what the motor is, but the BP is awful spinning that fast.
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Mar 12, 2014 17:19
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So buy an S2000 then? I'm sorry man, I guess I just don't get it. We can agree to disagree I guess.
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Mar 12, 2014 17:48
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I'm not down on the 1.6 because that's all you could get those first few years. A Miata is better than no Miata.
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Mar 12, 2014 17:52
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leica posted:So buy an S2000 then? I'm sorry man, I guess I just don't get it. We can agree to disagree I guess. The S2K has more expensive consumables and the K24 has more area under the curve than the F20/22C? I mean, S2000 guys are swapping K24s into their cars.
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Mar 12, 2014 18:23
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leica posted:I still don't see the cost advantage over just keeping the BP and working with that. 9k plus the cost of a Miata you're into S2000 teritorry which is a better car overall. It just doesn't make sense to me. I know I was off on the cost of an LS swap, but if I was going to swap in a different motor it sure as hell wouldn't be another 4 cylinder, if I'm going to go through the trouble it would have to be a V6 or V8. I suppose it might make sense for dedicated track cars that go through motors, but for the street or occasional track use it's pointless imo. You can't do poo poo with the BP unless you turbo it. Putting a V8 into a Miata is a lot more work than a K24, and really the best swap is a rotary one lets be real  If you are starting out in a Miata the swap is a little more expensive just for the fact that you can't pull an F20 out of it and sell it for a bunch of cash to offset the money spent on the project. But the tradeoff there is spending less on the car overall to begin with, so in theory you could be spending less money still than just buying an S2000 Nodoze fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 18:46
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Maybe it's because people actually give a poo poo about their little Miata friend, whereas the payday loan clients who still own 323s are driving them into the ground before replacing them with a buy-here-pay-here 2001 Cavalier? I'd blame both the widespread knowledge of the issue as well as the improper servicing done to create the issue on Miata owners. Miata owners seem to DIY maintenance on their cars a lot, and that issue is exacerbated hugely by less than stellar control of torque on the crank bolt. Note on the 4 B6 timing belts I've done, I never changed the woodruff key nor the crank bolt. Never had an issue. I do however lock the crank, use a torque wrench, and make sure the keyway is clean and the key fits perfectly.
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Mar 12, 2014 18:49
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Phone posted:Next to zero. NBs can be had for $4k, but $2.5k is really really really pushing it. Is the Florida market this different from Texas, or are my friends buying and selling these things WAY under market? Here $2.5k gets you a decent 1.8 NA or a slightly beat NB, I got an NB in pretty good shape for $4k 5 years ago. This isn't just one transaction, one friend got a really clean NA for $2k, another a supercharged 1.6 NA for $1500, and someone got an NB with hardtop recently for $3k. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 19:25
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blk posted:I saw a couple on CL the other night. One has 500 miles or something like that on it and the dude wants 40k. Ell Oh Ell. I just Googled for this instead of searching Craigs list directly. Man, there are a lot of shady sounding websites like "craigslistpro.biz". I was too worried to even click on them. Actual car talk: I have no idea what is happening in this thread. Is there a "cars for dummies" guide somewhere?
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Mar 12, 2014 21:23
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Stolennosferatu posted:Actual car talk: I have no idea what is happening in this thread. Is there a "cars for dummies" guide somewhere? http://www.miata.net/faq/
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Mar 12, 2014 22:11
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The carpet pad is indeed toast but the carpet is fine, what's the best solution for replacement?
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Mar 13, 2014 00:58
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 Were seats like this ever an option on the NC? blk fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Mar 13, 2014 |
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Mar 13, 2014 03:48
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blk posted:http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4370957073.html They look like katzkins. No NC had factory two tone seats.
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Mar 13, 2014 03:58
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Goober Peas posted:They look like katzkins. No NC had factory two tone seats. I'm not familiar with those - how's quality, support/bolstering, etc compared to OEM?
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Mar 13, 2014 04:02
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It's a seat cover.
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Mar 13, 2014 04:13
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FatCow posted:It's a seat cover. That was my guess, full replacement covers.
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Mar 13, 2014 04:29
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Katskins are leather covers for people that have cloth and want leather, apparently they are decent quality. I'd take them off and sell them because it doesn't look right.
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Mar 13, 2014 05:50
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blk posted:I'm not familiar with those - how's quality, support/bolstering, etc compared to OEM? Quality wise, they are as good as mainstream aftermarket gets. They tend to be a little thicker than OEM. The quality of install is equally important. If installed right there should be no difference in support/bolstering/wear.
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Mar 13, 2014 13:14
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So I maybe keeping my miata. If I do it's getting boost. I have the opportunity for a used hot side mp62 set up with inter cooler and "5th injector". My other plan would be a complete DIY turbo set up. Mig or tig exhaust manifold. Would probably use the a spare td04 my dad has for his wrx. The idea is track/street/autocross in that order. If I go turbo I was fast spool and good throttle response. My fear with the mp62 is too much power and high cost (the guy wants 3.2k, I only want to spend 2.5).
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Mar 13, 2014 17:31
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Hello again Miata thread, it's been a while. I'm about to change my Trans and Diff fluid in my 95M for the first time. I checked them both when I bought it and the dealer had changed them both, so it's just now that time. I've got Redline MTL for the trans, and plan to pick up some Mobil 1 gear oil for the Torsen. Is there anything special I should know about the process, or anything in particular that I need to watch out for?
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Mar 13, 2014 17:33
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Undo the fill plugs before you undo the drain plugs. If they have been done that recently though it's likely not going to be an issue. You'll have metal dust in the oil so don't freak out when you see it.
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Mar 13, 2014 18:20
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I also have a 95M and those same fluids in my trans and diff. My only added info would be get an oil pump from harbor freight or something. It will make your life much easier.
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Mar 14, 2014 03:51
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I got one for $4 when I ordered the redline from Amazon. I've done manual trans fluid changes without a pump before, and gently caress threading small rubber hose down around the engine.
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Mar 14, 2014 04:48
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The manual pumps suck when you gotta drain and fill everything under a 4WD Cherokee Maybe I just need to work out more 
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Mar 14, 2014 05:21
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I have had luck in the past using the icing-bag method (fill a ziploc with fluid, then cut a corner off and squeeze the fluid into the diff like you're icing a cake) but that usually relies on being present in a Canadian winter where the viscosity of the whale semen that you're injecting into the diff is just slightly more liquid than galvanized roofing nails.
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Mar 14, 2014 05:34
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Stolennosferatu posted:Anyone here own a 2006 velocity red limited edition mx5? Send me a message! Mazda wants to borrow your car! I've still got mine. I don't have pms, but you can e-mail me at ldr135 at gmail dot com.
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Mar 14, 2014 19:28
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I just clean a soap dispenser nozzle and pump it in that way.
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Mar 14, 2014 20:30
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60k on the NC is just fluids and filters, right?
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Mar 15, 2014 00:00
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MrLogan posted:I've still got mine. I don't have pms, but you can e-mail me at ldr135 at gmail dot com. It's almost 4:30 over here and PR is gone, so I don't think they'll be able to arrange that in time. Thanks though!
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Mar 15, 2014 00:21
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blk posted:60k on the NC is just fluids and filters, right? Yep - I was wrong in our earlier discussion http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/pdf/maint_schedules/06_MX5_MS.pdf I'm scheduled to inspect it at 10am tomorrow.
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Mar 15, 2014 04:02
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