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Probably dumb, but why does my A4 turn on the AC when I select auto given that it's winter? I obviously don't need cooling.
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Mar 17, 2014 00:45
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 22:04 |
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Doing some work on my friend's A3 (1999 1.9 TDi), and the rear calipers had to come off - bled the system afterwards, seemed fine, but the pedal drops like a stone if the engine's running. I'm suspecting we got air into the ABS block maybe, though we made a point of clamping off hoses when undoing them, and it didn't seem to need much fluid when bled through engine-off. Some googling shows it's possible we need to run an ABS bleeding cycle using VAG-com, which he has, or would simply doing a normal bleed only with the engine running (and thus the ABS on) achieve the same end?
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Mar 17, 2014 00:51
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actionjackson posted:Probably dumb, but why does my A4 turn on the AC when I select auto given that it's winter? I obviously don't need cooling. I dont think most cars factor in the outside temp so it all runs with the compressor on.
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Mar 17, 2014 01:12
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Air conditioning also removes moisture from the air, so lots of people in humid areas find it more comfortable to leave it on even when it's cold outside.
Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Mar 17, 2014 |
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Mar 17, 2014 02:01
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actionjackson posted:Probably dumb, but why does my A4 turn on the AC when I select auto given that it's winter? I obviously don't need cooling. Defrost. It's humidity control.
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Mar 17, 2014 02:13
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Okay. Just wondering in what situations I should turn it off, assuming it is always activated when auto is turned on.
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Mar 17, 2014 03:19
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I just got this and I love it so much. 2006 Audi A3. Two owners, sport pack, service records, and it drives like a new car.    No immediate plans to do anything to it except some maintenance items and maybe the dogbone mount bushing insert thing.
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Mar 17, 2014 03:42
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actionjackson posted:Okay. Just wondering in what situations I should turn it off, assuming it is always activated when auto is turned on. None. Your car is probably programmed by people smarter than you in this respect.
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Mar 17, 2014 03:45
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Obviously, "auto" doesn't mean "always on". If it's colder inside than the desired temperature, it surely won't cool it more. If the temperature has been reached, it throttles the ventilation. There's several temperature sensors and at least an air quality one (for automatic circulation) in your car.
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Mar 17, 2014 11:53
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If I recall, newer cars don't even have an AC clutch anymore and are always running to some degree. It's just not enough to significantly affect economy when "off".
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Mar 17, 2014 14:39
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Okay, thanks!
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Mar 17, 2014 14:46
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Fart Pipe posted:Its the chains, they weren't done or weren't done correctly. They are right behind the coil on that engine and I bet at least 2 things are broken, the plastic guide for the upper chain and the guide up against the oil tensioner is worn through and leaking oil pressure, causing slack. Boo, I had a feeling. Considering the other crap I've found hidden behind hastily clad flannel upholstery, this does not surprise me. I'm game for chain job any day though. It seems someone was in there since that side cover was sloppily sealed and leaking a little bit. I'm guessing they did the chain and tensioner and left all the guides alone. Can this be done.... Answered my own question. Upper is done with intake and valve cover off, trans, clutch and flywheel need to be removed to do lower. Edit: found this link, http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1264409-DIY-Replacing-timing-chains-tensioners-and-guides-on-a-12v-VR6%5C described it to a T. Don't immediately want to do the lower, upper chain, guides and tensioner look like a breeze though! interwhat fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Mar 17, 2014 |
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Mar 17, 2014 15:18
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You can do it in the car but the trans has to come out and the clutch/flywheel too. When I do chains I usually do them, a new clutch and new head gasket at the same time. I think 98 still has the fiber head gasket and its worth switching over to the MK4 steel one. If its already steel Id leave it alone. Sounds like the previous owner might have just changed the tensioner or something. The trans has to come out to do the chains so if it doesnt look like the trans has been out recently then they were never done and they were fibbing you. e: yea thats the how-to I used the first time I did them. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Mar 17, 2014 |
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Mar 17, 2014 15:54
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Well an indication that the work has been done is the poorly sealed covers and the cover that goes over the bottom part of the clutch(half moon shaped plate). I'll probably end up doing the whole job for the experience and yea probably new clutch, plate, flywheel maybe. In the mean time since funding and time is tight, I'm just gonna do the upper chain, guides and tensioner bolt just because I'm almost sure it's that guide that broke, so I at least don't have to worry about the chain jumping time.
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Mar 17, 2014 19:49
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actionjackson posted:Probably dumb, but why does my A4 turn on the AC when I select auto given that it's winter? I obviously don't need cooling. As mentioned it's because it dries the air. It will defrost the windows quicker and keep them from fogging up on the inside if there is any moisture in the air. My AC only comes on if I have the window defrost on though, even on automatic. (2011 A4)
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Mar 18, 2014 02:04
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Snowdens Secret posted:Usually for stuff like that you use a 3/8" socket with an allen bit, and just stack extensions you've probably already got I tried stacking extensions but the bolt was right at the bottom of this run of pipes, behind the thick rubber insulation, it wasn't easy even with the allen, no way I would have fit a frankensteins monster style effort through there, I had to put a bit of pressure on the pipes to get it through as it was  And so turned out to be a pain to get to with anything but my shiny new tool. Got a nice set on sale from the same place that delivered the battery.  Job scruffily done, now to go out and fire up the quattro for a bit in the sunshine, and figure out how to reset all my clocks and the remote key. Might even wash it!
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Mar 18, 2014 15:54
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asmallrabbit posted:As mentioned it's because it dries the air. It will defrost the windows quicker and keep them from fogging up on the inside if there is any moisture in the air. My AC only comes on if I have the window defrost on though, even on automatic. (2011 A4) I have a 2011 A4 also, mine has always come on with Auto, regardless of whether I have the defrosters on.
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Mar 19, 2014 16:21
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So was handed a VAG-com today. What the hell should I do with it that I don't know about? I'm going to turn off the stupid seat belt chimes and the obnoxious hill-hold feature and that's about all I know to do with it.
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Mar 20, 2014 03:53
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Do the coding where you can roll the windows up and down with the remote.
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Mar 20, 2014 04:18
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edit: efb
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Mar 20, 2014 04:21
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Bovril Delight posted:Do the coding where you can roll the windows up and down with the remote. Lately I've been having an issue on my 06 A4 where my remote will sometimes be unable to lock/unlock the car remotely. It's happening more and more lately but I can't quite figure out any consistent repro steps, it just seems to happen randomly and if I put the key in the ignition hold it in the accesory slot and then turn the car on it will start working for a while. I thought it was the batteries on the remote but even when it won't unlock/lock remotely I still see the light flash on my key fob.
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Mar 20, 2014 16:21
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Have you put a fresh battery in the fob? I had a similar issue with my jetta and a new battery fixed it.
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Mar 20, 2014 16:56
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devmd01 posted:Have you put a fresh battery in the fob? I had a similar issue with my jetta and a new battery fixed it.
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Mar 20, 2014 17:32
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trouser chili posted:So was handed a VAG-com today. What the hell should I do with it that I don't know about? I'm going to turn off the stupid seat belt chimes and the obnoxious hill-hold feature and that's about all I know to do with it.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:38
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Combat Pretzel posted:Enable needle sweep, if your car doesn't do it by default.
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Mar 20, 2014 21:13
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I've got a cracked exhaust downpipe and broken thermostat on a 2006 A4; I got quoted $800 for the downpipe repair ($500 of which is the part), and $500 for the thermostat ($80 part, rest is labor). Looking at the steps required for the thermostat, I'm not inclined to DIY because I don't have a garage, and my A4 is my only mode of transportation right now. Looks like you have to get a good ways into service position to replace the drat thing. Re: the exhaust though, if I understand correctly, if I got an aftermarket exhaust it would replace said downpipe anyway, so I'm inclined to hold off on getting a brand-new OEM part, and going to look into the world of aftermarket exhaust. Something 'mature' if that's even possible when it comes to aftermarket exhaust (don't want to sound like a Civic).
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Mar 21, 2014 00:05
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trouser chili posted:So was handed a VAG-com today. What the hell should I do with it that I don't know about? I'm going to turn off the stupid seat belt chimes and the obnoxious hill-hold feature and that's about all I know to do with it. Send it to me so i can turn off the annoying horn honk when you lock with remote.
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Mar 21, 2014 00:55
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Styles Bitchley posted:Send it to me so i can turn off the annoying horn honk when you lock with remote. gently caress. Me too
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Mar 21, 2014 01:18
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trouser chili posted:So was handed a VAG-com today. What the hell should I do with it that I don't know about? I'm going to turn off the stupid seat belt chimes and the obnoxious hill-hold feature and that's about all I know to do with it. I've never understood the issue with the hill hold. I've had zero issues with it. Touch the accelerator and it disengages.
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Mar 21, 2014 01:47
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fknlo posted:I've never understood the issue with the hill hold. I've had zero issues with it. Touch the accelerator and it disengages. For people who have been driving manual transmission vehicles that aren't less than a few years old for quite some time now this is not an expected behavior. It is neither necessary nor desired.
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Mar 21, 2014 02:12
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fknlo posted:I've never understood the issue with the hill hold. I've had zero issues with it. Touch the accelerator and it disengages. I could say I just don't like it, but it's a bit more than that. I've gotten kinda used to it, but then it fucks me up when I jump on my other manual transmission vehicles. Then I'm hosed up getting back in the VW. I feel for the clutch engagement point, hill hold makes that impossible.
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Mar 21, 2014 03:46
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real_scud posted:Don't think you can do that on all models though, think it was only on B8 A4's and newer
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Mar 21, 2014 04:44
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I just bought a 2005 GTI with the 1.8t engine and would like to get a vagcom device, are there any preferred models? I'd want a standalone device rather than one that plugs into a computer, but if the price difference is great enough I'd consider either.
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Mar 21, 2014 05:03
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Styles Bitchley posted:Send it to me so i can turn off the annoying horn honk when you lock with remote. You can't turn it off in the settings screen of the MFD? On my mk5 Jetta it was under the "convenience" options listed as the completely undocumented option "ATA Confirm". No more honking.
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Mar 21, 2014 05:07
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Motronic posted:For people who have been driving manual transmission vehicles that aren't less than a few years old for quite some time now this is not an expected behavior. It is neither necessary nor desired. I've driven manuals all my life and it took me all of 2 hills to get used to the hill hold. Especially out here where every cocksucker on the road feels the need to sit 2 inches from your bumper.
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Mar 21, 2014 14:25
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Styles Bitchley posted:Send it to me so i can turn off the annoying horn honk when you lock with remote. I connected a cheap dei siren and now get a nice chirp instead. Instructions: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40208 No coding is needed unless you want a double chirp for unlock as well
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Mar 21, 2014 15:01
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veedubfreak posted:I've driven manuals all my life and it took me all of 2 hills to get used to the hill hold. Especially out here where every cocksucker on the road feels the need to sit 2 inches from your bumper. I'm not saying you can't get used to it.......but it's kinda odd to me. I don't need something extra to not roll back, just a clutch that works. The first time I got into a car with hill hold I managed to stall it twice moving it around a parking lot until I realized what was going on. Then it was fine, just odd. And it continues to be odd whenever I drive something with it.
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Mar 22, 2014 16:53
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Motronic posted:I'm not saying you can't get used to it.......but it's kinda odd to me. I don't need something extra to not roll back, just a clutch that works. This is me, the hill hold has caused me to stall my car before because it "hides" the clutch point.
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Mar 22, 2014 17:42
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A habit of mine, that came from frequently switching between cars years ago, is to repeatedly and quickly tap the throttle lightly while clutching in. This keeps the torque somewhat up, preventing stalls, but without over-revving the car like an old person.
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Mar 22, 2014 18:19
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Combat Pretzel posted:A habit of mine, that came from frequently switching between cars years ago, is to repeatedly and quickly tap the throttle lightly while clutching in. This keeps the torque somewhat up, preventing stalls, but without over-revving the car like an old person. This also disengages the hill assist! I've never owned an automatic and have only stalled the car a couple of times because of it. I'm touching the throttle before I'd be rolling back 99 percent of the time anyway.
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Mar 22, 2014 23:12
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