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Ah, thanks for the quick answer. So having a Thunderbolt Display would preclude the need for a dock, correct? I would only be using the laptop while outside of home, where I'd be keeping the display. And the 13" rMBP would be powerful enough to do video editing, etc. while running the Thunderbolt or other external display? Would you recommend any upgrades?
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Mar 17, 2014 22:16
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barbudo posted:I would only be using the laptop while outside of home, where I'd be keeping the display. 
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Mar 17, 2014 23:55
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barbudo posted:Ah, thanks for the quick answer. So having a Thunderbolt Display would preclude the need for a dock, correct? I would only be using the laptop while outside of home, where I'd be keeping the display. And the 13" rMBP would be powerful enough to do video editing, etc. while running the Thunderbolt or other external display? Would you recommend any upgrades?
Performance-wise, the 13" rMBP has the same Iris 5100 graphics that the Air does but because the CPU has a higher TDP (and consequently more thermal headroom to play with) you'll find that under load it performs quite a bit better. The 5100 isn't quite as good as the 5200 (or 650m from the previous gen 15" rMBP) but it's still fairly powerful and if you're not editing 4K video I don't think you'll have any problems. I would strongly recommend at least the 8GB RAM/256GB SSD model and preferably 16GB of RAM if you can since it can't be upgraded later.
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Mar 18, 2014 00:16
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Mercurius posted:Sorry about the slow response, got stuck on a call at work. The Thunderbolt Display is a thunderbolt dock and it has a cable with dual Thunderbolt and Magsafe adapters on the top of it that goes into your laptop and everything else goes into the monitor. It's fairly pricey and a bit old as I mentioned previously so there's a few things you'd need to consider before buying one: That answers my question 100%. Thanks a lot!
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Mar 18, 2014 01:26
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Mercurius posted:Performance-wise, the 13" rMBP has the same Iris 5100 graphics that the Air does but because the CPU has a higher TDP (and consequently more thermal headroom to play with) you'll find that under load it performs quite a bit better. Just a nitpicky correction: the 2013 Airs come with the HD 5000 graphics, while the 13" rMBPs come with the Iris 5100 (they may well be the same chip with different thermal capacities, I honestly can't remember). Regardless, everything else seemed pretty spot-on and I'd totally recommend the rMBP too. That said, the Thunderbolt Display can be a bit pricier than necessary if you're not particularly interested in the guaranteed panel quality, fit and finish, and connection simplicity. If you don't mind having some extra cables around, you can get a Monoprice display made with the exact same panel as the Apple one for ~$400. It won't be nearly as pretty though.
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Mar 18, 2014 02:21
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Electric Bugaloo posted:Just a nitpicky correction: the 2013 Airs come with the HD 5000 graphics, while the 13" rMBPs come with the Iris 5100 (they may well be the same chip with different thermal capacities, I honestly can't remember). Regardless, everything else seemed pretty spot-on and I'd totally recommend the rMBP too. Thermal stuff I was referring to was because I thought they had the same iGPU. ULV processors like the MBA use have a lower TDP than the regular mobile processors used in the MBPs and my understanding is that while they can both turbo up to the same speed CPU wise, the higher TDP chip has more room to turbo the graphics as well. End result is that a ULV chip and a normal chip with the same graphics will be roughly the same speed for CPU stuff if they turbo to the same max speed but graphically intensive applications should perform better under load on the normal mobile CPU.
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Mar 18, 2014 02:54
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Mercurius posted:Thermal stuff I was referring to was because I thought they had the same iGPU. ULV processors like the MBA use have a lower TDP than the regular mobile processors used in the MBPs and my understanding is that while they can both turbo up to the same speed CPU wise, the higher TDP chip has more room to turbo the graphics as well. You're both right. It's the same hardware, with nearly identical minimum and maximum clocks. Average GPU real world clocks are much higher on the 28 watt version of the chip, so Intel called its GPU "Iris 5100" to distinguish it from the 15 watt version's "HD 5000". Same principle applies to the CPU cores. The max turbo clock rates are basically the same, but the 28W chips will actually stay near the rated peak CPU freq all the time, and have a much higher minimum frequency. (There are also other ULV CPUs with a physically smaller GPU named HD 4400 or 4600. Apple didn't use them in any Mac but they're by far the most common option in PC ultrabooks.)
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Mar 18, 2014 03:30
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Just had something odd happen to my 2 month old rMBP. It wouldn't play any sound through the speakers, either from Audacity, youtube or itunes, even after a reboot. I plugged in my headphones and it worked in them, and when I unplugged them the speakers started working again. Very strange. This is one of many little quirks the computer has displayed, and I'm beginning to wonder if all the little unreproducible problems are symptoms of something bigger going on.
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Mar 18, 2014 19:11
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Colonel J posted:Just had something odd happen to my 2 month old rMBP. It wouldn't play any sound through the speakers, either from Audacity, youtube or itunes, even after a reboot. I plugged in my headphones and it worked in them, and when I unplugged them the speakers started working again. Very strange. There is a tiny, physical switch inside the headphone jack that determines where the system will output audio (I'm assuming this is still true on the RMBP). It got stuck and you unstuck it by sticking the headphones in.
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Mar 18, 2014 19:23
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So, it looks like the 13" rMBP is my best bet - and thanks for all the input - regardless of the display solution. I don't need it right away - from a little googling it seems like a 2014 rMBP release is expected. Would it be sensible to just wait until that release is announced? ^^^FWIW, I've had the above problem with speakers and headphones on both my MBP and various iPhones. I think it might just be a quirk - I wouldn't worry.
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Mar 18, 2014 19:34
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barbudo posted:So, it looks like the 13" rMBP is my best bet - and thanks for all the input - regardless of the display solution. I don't need it right away - from a little googling it seems like a 2014 rMBP release is expected. Would it be sensible to just wait until that release is announced?
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Mar 18, 2014 19:35
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Yeah, it's like it says in the OP:pokeyman posted:
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Mar 18, 2014 19:56
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The USB 3.0 section in the OP should be upgraded to this statement: -- USB 3.0 Apple has been shipping laptops and desktops with USB 3.0 installed as an integral feature since June 2012. The models that ship with USB 3.0 include the following: iMac (Late 2012 and later, all models) Mac Mini, Mac Mini Server (Late 2012, all models) MacBook Air (Mid 2012, Mid 2013, all models) MacBook Pro 13-inch and 15-inch (Mid 2012) MacBook Pro Retina (Mid 2012, Early 2013, Late 2013, all models) Regarding USB 3.0 on Mac Pros (and possibly Hackintoshes) If you have a Mac Pro 3,1 or later and are running Mac OS X v.10.8.5 or better, there now exists a painless, turnkey way to add USB 3.0 to your machine. The Inateck KT4004 PCI card available from Amazon (about $26) will go into any PCI slot on your Mac Pro 3,1 or later and give you full, hack-free USB 3.0 connectivity. It uses the same Fresco Logic USB controller chipset included by Apple in some Macs. It requires no special drivers as it uses the built in USB 3.0 drivers present in OS X 10.8.5 and 10.9.x. It needs no hacks such as a power cable extended from the optical drives to run it, it gets all its power from the PCI Express bus. It accepts all devices such hubs, dongles, and flash keys as well as USB 3.0 hard drives. It has also been tested to work with earlier Mac Pros (1,1 and 2,1) if they have been set up with Mac OS X 10.8.5 or 10.9.x using the SFOTT / Tiamo replacement boot.efi method detailed here. Of particular note is that OS X 10.8.5 itself supports UASP (USB Attached SCSI Protocol) devices, and if you have a USB 3.0 device that supports UASP you will find transfer rates with such devices to be competitive with Thunderbolt devices. Also, some have reported that plugging in items such as Bluetooth and RF dongles work perfectly with this card, whereas if plugged directly into some USB 3.0 capable Macs there is considerable interference preventing the devices from working properly. -- Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2014 20:16
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I don't find that USB 3.0 question asked frequently enough, and most of the OP needs gutting anyway. Matte vs. glossy is a moot point anymore, like many of the OP's considerations at this time.
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Mar 18, 2014 20:32
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Quick question: if a Mavericks boot drive (MBP 12,1 w flash) is encrypted with FileVault and there is only one user on the machine, there is absolutely no way short of an FBI crime lab getting to the data, right? No genius bars, no local shops, no magic software. It requires my password to boot up, unlock from screen saver, the whole deal. I just want to make sure that even if someone took it to Apple that it couldn't be decrypted without my password or key, in any scenario. Are these correct assumptions? Furthermore, has anyone ever actually used 'find my phone' to wipe a Mac? Gracias, compadres.
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Mar 19, 2014 00:59
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No magic software afaik, but if you let apple store the key with your appleID in case you forget it, it's obviously only as secure as your appleID, and probably within reach of a court order. E: this should answer your remote wiping questions, but it's a bit redundant with encryption. http://www.macobserver.com/tmo/article/how_to_wipe_a_mac_remotely_with_icloud_and_get_the_data_back My PIN is 4826 fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 01:45
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Your three FileVault security questions are purportedly used to encrypt the recovery key, so it should be more secure than your AppleID alone, and theoretically safe from Apple receiving a court order. But courts are still hashing out the legality of compelling you to provide the security answers. So if you're paranoid, I guess set up FileVault, don't store the key with Apple, and don't keep the key yourself.
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Mar 19, 2014 02:20
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Oh no - something awful happened.
pipebomb fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 14:52
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Not entirely sure if this is the right thread, point me to a better one if that's a problem. I've a 2008 MacPro with 300Gb hard drive in it that has a 60GB Windows boot camped on it. If I wanted to add a SSD to the system, the somewhat smart way to do it would be: 1. Stick SSD into an empty hd slot, download Mavericks installer and install a fresh version on SSD 2. Make the SSD default boot disk somehow 3. Move user files from HD to SSD 4. Reformat the HD 5. Bootcamp install the windows on SSD 6. Move the user files in OSX onto HD while keeping the system files on SSD or is there a better way to set this up?
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Mar 19, 2014 15:52
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That will work. If you want, there are ways to completely clone your HD onto the SSD and have it work just the same, as long as there is enough room on the SSD. You can also just restore from Time Machine if you don't want to bring your Boot Camp with you. What you are suggesting will work though. As to how to "somehow" make it the default boot disk? Well, you hold Option at startup to boot from it, then the Startup Disk is selectable in System Preferences. You will need to create a bootable USB if you want to do a fresh install of Mavericks I believe, but I am not 100% on that. Instructions should be available online.
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Mar 19, 2014 15:56
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Cloning might work, I don't have time machine anyways, hopefully windows won't mind being moved. Are there any advantages in loving around with the distribution of files on HD/SSD ?
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Mar 19, 2014 16:08
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I looked through the OP and the last couple pages and didn't see anything. I got a shiny new rMBP with an SSD at work and am totally in love with it. At this point however it's probably wiser financially to extend the life of my late 2011 MBP 8,2 and I'm thinking a new SSD might be the best bang for the buck for pepping up the performance. Is there a significant difference between Crucial and Samsung SSDs? Samsung seems slightly higher price wise but I'm not sure if there is something that might make that worthwhile. Also, I could upgrade to 16gb ram from 8 but I think getting rid of my fairly old mechanical drive would do more for me. Now I just have try not to long for the retina display when I fire up my home machine. 
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Mar 19, 2014 16:13
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iv46vi posted:Are there any advantages in loving around with the distribution of files on HD/SSD ? What do you mean? Putting certain things on the spinning platter and other things on the SSD? It depends on what kind of work you're doing. Personally I'm a software developer. I put IDEs and codebases and servers and stuff on the SSD just for quality-of-life reasons, it's makes things a lot faster. I put things like video games, movies, TV shows etc unrelated to work on the spinning platter. I also do photography and I keep all my RAW files on the SSD, even though they are large, again for quality-of-life reasons. Your own personal mix will depend on you - and how big your SSD is.
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Mar 19, 2014 16:20
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Doctor Zero posted:Is there a significant difference between Crucial and Samsung SSDs? Samsung seems slightly higher price wise but I'm not sure if there is something that might make that worthwhile. Go with Samsung, Crucial's done some lovely things with their SSDs of late. Samsung's been putting out solid SSDs for a god while now. After to install an SSD, be sure to enable TRIM. See the SSD megathread for more details. FWIW, I have a 256 GB Samsung 830 in my 2010 MBP and it works great.
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Mar 19, 2014 16:30
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Pivo posted:What do you mean? Putting certain things on the spinning platter and other things on the SSD? It depends on what kind of work you're doing. I have no idea how to set it up in the DIY way, but won't a fusion drive manage file storage between a SSD/HDD based on how often files are accessed?
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Mar 19, 2014 17:36
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My PIN is 4826 posted:I have no idea how to set it up in the DIY way, but won't a fusion drive manage file storage between a SSD/HDD based on how often files are accessed? If you're not able to manage it yourself, sure. Fusion would offload my photographs to the spinning platter very quickly, since I don't use old files much, but the whole reason I keep them on the SSD is so that they are quick to work with when I do.
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Mar 19, 2014 17:43
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I slapped one of these in my 2010 MBP and it definitely gave it a nice little pick me up. Startup and frequently accessed programs are much faster now. Since I was planning on getting a new computer relatively soon I didn't want to invest in a straight SSD with the capacity I needed, but for under $100 the difference this made was definitely worth it. Just cloned my old HDD onto the new one and swapped them out - the drive will 'learn' which files should go on the SSD portion as you use it.
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Mar 19, 2014 17:45
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Doctor Zero posted:Is there a significant difference between Crucial and Samsung SSDs? Samsung seems slightly higher price wise but I'm not sure if there is something that might make that worthwhile. If you have a 256 GB SSD in your rMBP, chances are very good that it's a Samsung, Apple uses them in their laptops so that should give you an idea of compatibility.
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Mar 19, 2014 18:33
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No joke, but edit the rest of that post or some goon will internet detective you at some point just to do and gently caress you over.
RusteJuxx fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Mar 20, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 19:43
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RusteJuxx posted:No joke, but edit the rest of that post or some goon will internet detective you at some point just to do and gently caress you over. Sad but true.
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Mar 19, 2014 20:54
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pipebomb posted:Sad but true. The version on the S&M album was easily the best
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Mar 19, 2014 21:22
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barbudo posted:Ah, thanks for the quick answer. So having a Thunderbolt Display would preclude the need for a dock, correct? I would only be using the laptop while outside of home, where I'd be keeping the display. And the 13" rMBP would be powerful enough to do video editing, etc. while running the Thunderbolt or other external display? Would you recommend any upgrades?  (whenever it comes out):http://www.lg.com/uk/monitors/lg-34UM95
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Mar 20, 2014 08:56
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I'm having a weird issue which I haven't really been able to find a definite answer to. I have a couple of months old Mac Mini with a LED Cinema Display (pre-thunderbolt.) I'm using the built-in speakers of the display. Issue is, when the computer has been to sleep, the sound is really, really faint. A single adjustment of the volume brings it out. It's like an amplifier isn't being turned on or something. Display is, as far as I can tell, updated to latest firmware. It started suddenly, it has worked earlier. I'm running OS X Mavericks.
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Mar 20, 2014 16:11
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I have a bigass hard drive that should be repurposed, as well as an old iPhone4. Apparently I can USB the drive into the newer Airport Extreme to make a NAS Then I could use this NAS to host media and whatever else. No big deal I guess. Next step would be getting that media over to my ATV3. AFAIK, the ATV3 doesn't maintain an iTunes library, it only reads others. I think an iPhone4 could solve the problem. So the grand idea would be to have all the media on this NAS. The media would be managed and organized by whatever computer decides to connect to it. A repurposed iPhone4 would then provide library access to the NAS for the ATV3. I've got all of these things lying around, I'd only have to pick up an Airport Extreme, which I've been meaning to do so anyway. Would this crazy idea work? Also, if this works, would the ATV3 read directly from the NAS at full quality, or would the iPhone4 be a bottleneck of some sort? a_pineapple fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Mar 21, 2014 |
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Mar 21, 2014 22:02
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See that connector in the red box? That's only present on a Time Capsule and it's how you connect a hard drive. Unless a new revision of the Airport Extreme has started rolling off the assembly line that shares the same mainboard as the TC, you can't just turn an AEBS into a TC. edit: Oh you're gonna use USB. Yeah then go nuts. It still seems like a very roundabout way to do things, but I guess in theory it will work. USB on AEBS/TC has always been terribly slow for me, and I can't imagine performance will be good bouncing between that many devices. Basically the TC/AEBS isn't really designed for serving streaming media. It's meant more as a backup destination that you don't think about, and less of a general purpose NAS. Star War Sex Parrot fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 21, 2014 |
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Mar 21, 2014 22:08
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:edit: Oh you're gonna use USB. Yeah then go nuts. It still seems like a very roundabout way to do things, but I guess in theory it will work. USB on AEBS/TC has always been terribly slow for me, and I can't imagine performance will be good bouncing between that many devices. Basically the TC/AEBS isn't really designed for serving streaming media. It's meant more as a backup destination that you don't think about, and less of a general purpose NAS. I just want to avoid having to leave a computer on all the time to drive the library (Until I can find a cheap/old MM to install 10.9 Server on to do other fun server-y stuff).
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Mar 21, 2014 22:27
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:USB on AEBS/TC has always been terribly slow for me, and I can't imagine performance will be good bouncing between that many devices. The new 802.11ac AEBS is much faster at this thanks to an upgrade to a dual core Cortex-A9 router SoC. Only thing wrong with its USB disk sharing performance is that they didn't upgrade it to USB 3.0. But you don't need more than USB 2 for this, I've been able to play video from a bus powered 2.5" disk attached to my AEBS with no performance problems at all. E: have no idea whether all the other moving parts would work though, I'm just serving media to Macs rather than ATVs and iPhones. BobHoward fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Mar 21, 2014 |
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Mar 21, 2014 23:19
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My lady-friend's got a 2009-era time capsule with probably a burnt-out power supply. Is there a way we can get to the data by hooking up the HDD to a mac somehow or is it in some weird format that needs to go through the time capsule's firmware before it becomes readable?
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Mar 22, 2014 00:51
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shodanjr_gr posted:My lady-friend's got a 2009-era time capsule with probably a burnt-out power supply. Is there a way we can get to the data by hooking up the HDD to a mac somehow or is it in some weird format that needs to go through the time capsule's firmware before it becomes readable? It's a standard SATA drive. Find the iFixIt guide for that particular model and go to town. You can use a USB-SATA adapter available at any 'enthusiast' computer hardware stores to connect it to the computer. That I know for sure. The Time Machine backup should be recognized as being associated with that machine with no problems but I am only assuming that, not guaranteeing it. Any other data on the drive will definitely be fine.
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Mar 22, 2014 00:59
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vas0line posted:I have a bigass hard drive that should be repurposed, as well as an old iPhone4. Apparently I can USB the drive into the newer Airport Extreme to make a NAS Then I could use this NAS to host media and whatever else. No big deal I guess. If you mean the former then the iPhone 4 might be a bottleneck if you were just going straight from NAS->iPhone->ATV, depending on your files. Like if you had 1080P files, even with hardware decoding it's kinda pushing it with the A4, and for other codecs requiring software decoding I'm guessing 720P is out. That said if you have a computer that can be left on, you can get around that by the computer handling transcoding to whatever the iPhone can handle, i.e. NAS->computer->iPhone->ATV. I use StreamToMe but there's a crapload of apps for that type of thing.
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Mar 22, 2014 02:50
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