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Marshmallow Blue posted:So if I say got this Definitely, brett is yeast so it can do the job all on its own. If you really want the Brett character to come through you need to underpitch, brett is actually pretty clean when it's treated like regular yeast.
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Mar 19, 2014 17:25
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Just learned something distressing about my blackberry...apparentlyif you hold the caps button while pressing delete, it deletes everything. Good bye, post... Anyway, has anyone tried the BSG HandCraft beer kits, and if so what were your thoughts? I normally don't use kits, since you can usually find recipes and collect all of the ingredients for much cheaper yourself, but my semi-local brew shop has a bunch on sale that are in styles that I really want to brew.
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Mar 19, 2014 17:27
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Mead makers - I've done a few now, and have noticed honey add a really pronounced body, is that just me? It's made my near 1.000 braggots seemingly not 'dry', the straight meads have it too. Is it just the honey I used? Or is this normal?
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Mar 19, 2014 19:02
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Jacobey000 posted:Mead makers - I've done a few now, and have noticed honey add a really pronounced body, is that just me? It's made my near 1.000 braggots seemingly not 'dry', the straight meads have it too. Is it just the honey I used? Or is this normal? I've noticed this too, especially with some decent age on the mead. My three honey traditional has an insane body despite the gravity being fairly low.
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Mar 19, 2014 19:09
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What was your OG? Remember that the delta between your OG and FG is only apparent attenuation, not actual attenuation, because alcohol is less dense than water. So while the significant gravity may be around that of water, if it's 13 or 14% alcohol, there are still significant amounts of dissolved solids, which would add to body and mouthfeel.
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Mar 19, 2014 19:38
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Jo3sh posted:What was your OG? I've only done small meads, 6-7% and the braggot was 4%. Which is even more perplexing. Marshmallow Blue posted:I've noticed this too, especially with some decent age on the mead. My three honey traditional has an insane body despite the gravity being fairly low. That may be it. When I tasted them young it seems quite dry and now their 8 months out* and the body is there. *(save for the 1 month old braggot)
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Mar 19, 2014 20:24
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Welp, we figured out why my buddies efficiency was so low. His thermometer reads 10 degrees high. So he was mashing his IPAs at 138.
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Mar 19, 2014 20:46
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Toxx posted:I made a lower gravity oatmeal stout (.048)awhile back that I asked in this thread about adding coffee to. The stout has been in primary for 14 days. I took a gravity sample last night and it read at .009. I used safale 04 british ale yeast. My issue is the fact that my airlock is still popping occasionally (Maybe every 2-3 minutes at the most. I notice it very occasionally). This wouldn't concern me because it could be residual CO2 however the fact that I took the lid off last night to check the gravity and combined with the fact that this was a 2gl batch in a 5gl bucket makes me concerned that it's still fermenting. I wouldn't necessarily care but I have nothing to rack it into and I don't want the coffee beans to sit in there for too much longer. I'm going to take another reading tonight but .009 seems really on the low end. Given the yeast, the time it's been in primary, and the gravity I feel like it's supposed to be way done. I bottled today. It was still about .009 (Maybe a hair less?) Seemed inane to let it keep going. The quicker I get my beers bottled the easier packing for moving is going to be. And I quoted this because I'm still wondering if there are any suggestions for my 5gl cooler. Do coolers hold pressure?
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Mar 20, 2014 03:53
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Lambic mead stuff Oh man, I'm even more excited to see how mine comes out. Is there any reason I couldn't brew wort for a normal sour and reuse the yeast cake from the lambic mead? I assume the yeast/bugs would be just as happy to eat beer-type sugars as they would mead-type, right?
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Mar 20, 2014 04:06
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I'm sure it would be fine, but I think honey has mostly single molecule sugars whereas the maltose that makes up beer is two bonded sugar molecules. They may have trouble chowing down on the more complex sugar for the same reasons you don't use white sugar in a starter. :Edit: also, I never saw a confirmation you got my beers for Secret Santa, it showed up, right?
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Mar 20, 2014 11:30
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Daedalus Esquire posted::Edit: also, I never saw a confirmation you got my beers for Secret Santa, it showed up, right? Nope, haven't seen anything.
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Mar 20, 2014 13:37
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Whaaaat really? I fedexed 6 beers back at the end if January. I'll go and see if I can find my fedex receipt. I may just have to send you a gift card since that was basically the last of my bottled beers.
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Mar 20, 2014 14:03
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Weird. Yeah, I never saw anything. If you want, shoot me an email at username at gmail.
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Mar 20, 2014 15:44
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http://www.homebrewtalk.com/Venturi-Aeration-Experiment.html Saw this posted today, and I am intrigued. Has anybody tried something similar or know of any proper studies that show oxygenation and whatnot? Taking twice as long to siphon is still quicker than sitting with an aquarium pump for half an hour(and seems less foamy), and the materials are way cheaper than using pure oxygen
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Mar 20, 2014 16:53
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BLARGHLE posted:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/Venturi-Aeration-Experiment.html I saw something on BYO about this, and it seems to be legit. He used a 3-way fitting instead though. Edit: Here it is http://byo.com/stories/wizard/item/2891-aeration-mr-wizard LeeMajors fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Mar 20, 2014 |
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Mar 20, 2014 16:56
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LeeMajors posted:I saw something on BYO about this, and it seems to be legit. He used a 3-way fitting instead though. Yeah, I saw a lot of people mention the T connector in the comments of the other article, and that seems like a much better way to go. Get one with a valve, and it seems like you'd have more control over the process. To the hardware store!
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Mar 20, 2014 17:06
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I use something like that to aerate my wort, although I've never checked O2 levels or anything like that. I have a piece of silicone tubing I use when I pump cooled wort into the fermenters. It has a ring of holes in it to entrain air.
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Mar 20, 2014 17:22
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ADVENTURES IN NO CHILL BREWING Okay, so I have been out of brewing for about a year and have only started again in the past month and a half. I had a working 10-15g AG brewhouse I used with friends, with all the trappings and Goldberg machinations you could imagine. After a bit of creative/personal conflicts, I split with them and started brewing on my own. I sold my whitewater kayak, and built a partial brewhouse before being distracted by career/housebuying/etc. Anyways, in this process, I decided to go 5g to start. I finished assembling my equipment, and started finalizing my process. I had been reading about no-chill brewing and the idea of pitching at my convenience really appealed to me. In spite of the logical shortcoming you would expect, I couldn't find any no-chill brewers that experienced chill-haze or DMS problems. So, I girded my loins, bought two winpack pails, and decided to give it a shot. My first batch, a dry stout, came in slightly under efficiency. The brew day was rife with typical first-batch mistakes. I didn't properly adjust hop additions and my gravity samples seemed more bitter than anticipated. I hoped it would mellow in-bottle. So, five weeks later, I finally cracked my first bottle.  Turned out fantastic. The bitterness problem is there, but is less pronounced under carbonation. No DMS or weird off-flavors in my final brew. Clarity is good, with no real haze around the rim noted. Not bad. Pretty encouraging for a simplified process to produce decent beer. I will still eventually chill in the future, but right now this does just fine.
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Mar 20, 2014 17:28
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LeeMajors posted:ADVENTURES IN NO CHILL BREWING How long did you let it sit before pitching? The epsidode of Basic Brewing where they did triangle tests on split batches that where chilled/no chilled seemed like there was no difference in taste.
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Mar 20, 2014 17:33
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Sistergodiva posted:How long did you let it sit before pitching? The epsidode of Basic Brewing where they did triangle tests on split batches that where chilled/no chilled seemed like there was no difference in taste. This batch I think I pitched US05 a little hot--maybe in the mid-70s, and that was after about 18hrs. The second batch that I'm bottling today (MO/Northern Brewer SMASH with Notty) I let sit for about 30 before pitching at perfect temps. I adjusted hop additions and did a big dry-hop addition as well and it has none of the flavor balance issues I got from the extended time above 170F.
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Mar 20, 2014 17:40
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Speaking of oxygenation, what size tubing do you guys use with a 3/8" OD racking cane? I got some replacement tubing and the guy at the homebrew shop recommended the 3/8" ID stuff, but I feel like I was getting a lot of air in there while kegging unless I held it in a certain way and tightened it pretty good with a hose clamp. This batch is a pretty simple pale ale so it'll probably be gone before I have to worry too much about oxidation, but I think unless I hear otherwise I'll be grabbing some 1/4" ID tubing.
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Mar 20, 2014 17:54
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I think mine is 5/16" ID.
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Mar 20, 2014 18:08
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Does anyone know about shipping homebrew out of the US? I know it's technically illegal to ship it USPS in the first place but am I going to get arrested trying to FedEx a 6-pack to Mexico?
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Mar 20, 2014 18:50
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I finally grabbed a copy of Brewing Classic Styles because ... it's probably the only book I don't have at this point that's worth reading. That and I can't get enough of Jamil's extreme  6 smackpacks of yeast for 1 five gallon batch? Of course, Jamil!
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Mar 20, 2014 21:59
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fullroundaction posted:Of course, Jamil! And if you do it any other way, you're wrong and your beer will suck.
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Mar 20, 2014 22:41
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fullroundaction posted:I finally grabbed a copy of Brewing Classic Styles because ... it's probably the only book I don't have at this point that's worth reading. I have like 30 beer and brewing books and Brewing Classic Styles is one of my least favorite. It's really not my kind of book since I rarely make others' recipes but I got it back when I did and never really enjoyed anything out of it. Plus it's geared towards extract brewers which is fine but I wish I would have known that before I bought it.
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Mar 20, 2014 23:14
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Josh Wow posted:I have like 30 beer and brewing books and Brewing Classic Styles is one of my least favorite. It's really not my kind of book since I rarely make others' recipes but I got it back when I did and never really enjoyed anything out of it. Plus it's geared towards extract brewers which is fine but I wish I would have known that before I bought it. Brewing Classic Styles series I think the only one I have is smoked beers because it goes into detail and science wise abit more about smoking your own malt and such. Aswell as the history etc, it also gave me the idea of doing stuff like homesmoking my malt with coconut shells! The others I haven't touched and don't plan on, however I have ran out of books to read and there is two books I think I got stung on. Hops / Water are two books I want to get (got Yeast), read the farmhouse and wildbrew books, radical brewing, ofcourse first two were how to brew and joy of homebrewing. Got a couple others and such but it feels I've hit a gap where I can't find any new good books (apart from Hops/Water). Be great sometime to do a database of goon rated homebrew books like we did with the yeast database! Edit: Ah got Brewing Classic Styles book mixed up with the Classic Styles series, never read Brewing Classic Styles. Fluo fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Mar 20, 2014 |
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Mar 20, 2014 23:24
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Josh Wow posted:I have like 30 beer and brewing books and Brewing Classic Styles is one of my least favorite. It's really not my kind of book since I rarely make others' recipes but I got it back when I did and never really enjoyed anything out of it. Plus it's geared towards extract brewers which is fine but I wish I would have known that before I bought it. It's really easy to convert the recipes though since he gives %s for each. I like to look at his recipes and read his explanations for each style. I've built some beers around his recipes, altering them a bit to my liking, and they've come out great. I highly recommend it myself.
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Mar 21, 2014 00:03
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Yeah it's a good kicking off point if you've never made a certain style, and I do like his TLDR on what the keys to success on each one are. That said, I totally get why people wouldn't like it. Basically all the world needs is a couple "how to brew" pages added to the front of Radical Brewing and we can take all the other books out of circulation.
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Mar 21, 2014 00:21
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Midorka posted:It's really easy to convert the recipes though since he gives %s for each. I like to look at his recipes and read his explanations for each style. I've built some beers around his recipes, altering them a bit to my liking, and they've come out great. I work in a Homebrew store, and I recommend it to a lot of customers. Good overview of the styles and easy to understand recipes which are a great baseline for making your own changes.
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Mar 21, 2014 00:25
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fullroundaction posted:
Yea pretty much this. Haha.
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Mar 21, 2014 00:25
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Josh Wow posted:I have like 30 beer and brewing books and Brewing Classic Styles is one of my least favorite. It's really not my kind of book since I rarely make others' recipes but I got it back when I did and never really enjoyed anything out of it. Plus it's geared towards extract brewers which is fine but I wish I would have known that before I bought it. What its good for isn't "recipes," so to speak, but mostly that he explains what the beer is supposed to taste like and how to actually get it to taste that way. Midorka posted:It's really easy to convert the recipes though since he gives %s for each. I like to look at his recipes and read his explanations for each style. I've built some beers around his recipes, altering them a bit to my liking, and they've come out great. I mean, he tells you what the all-grain recipes are too. I think someone's actually put them all into Beersmith files, too.
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Mar 21, 2014 00:30
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fullroundaction posted:Yeah it's a good kicking off point if you've never made a certain style, and I do like his TLDR on what the keys to success on each one are. I like it as a first reference point, being a relatively new brewer. "Hmm, what goes into a Belgian Golden Strong, generally" -> "pils, sugar, 30 IBUs of noble hops, one of these two yeasts" is nice to have around.
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Mar 21, 2014 01:05
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I dunno, like I said I've made several of the recipes and didn't really like any of them. I'll admit I generally have different tastes than most folks but none of his recipes I've made have been a good example of the style. The worst was his 60/- with a lot of specialty malts, it tasted like a super sweet light brown ale rather than any sort of Scottish ale.
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Mar 21, 2014 01:49
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internet celebrity posted:Definitely, brett is yeast so it can do the job all on its own. If you really want the Brett character to come through you need to underpitch, brett is actually pretty clean when it's treated like regular yeast. It isn't, really. Brett just takes a long time to develop characteristic flavors. Josh Wow posted:I dunno, like I said I've made several of the recipes and didn't really like any of them. I'll admit I generally have different tastes than most folks but none of his recipes I've made have been a good example of the style. The worst was his 60/- with a lot of specialty malts, it tasted like a super sweet light brown ale rather than any sort of Scottish ale. He does say that he was trying to find a way to substitute caramelizing the wort on that one, though. I think he had a strange yeast choice on that one too, though. I would have used WLP002 or Edinburgh Ale yeast, but he went with WLP001.
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Mar 21, 2014 01:53
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I use it as a reference point. If I want to make a new style, I compare the BCS recipe with an internet "clone" recipe of my favorite beer from the style, and come up with something along that spectrum. I like every recipe I've made verbatim from it, which is admittedly only a few.
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Mar 21, 2014 02:26
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I always use my LHBS,if I was to send ingredients to someone via an online brewing store does anyone have a recommendation?
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Mar 21, 2014 02:40
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Yea pretty much this. Haha. That drat book. After my first year, it's easily the most often opened book in my beer books. iirc, there is infact a short and very brief "how to brew" section in the first chapter or two - I remember it being really pragmatic.
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Mar 21, 2014 03:24
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As goofy as the book was, Sam Calgione's "ExTrEmE Brewing" had a really good how-to-brew intro (bare minimum info, step by step instructions, no advanced theory). I'd probably recommend that over Palmer for anyone who was completely brand new. I know how stupid that sounds, don't worry.
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Mar 21, 2014 03:43
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Is Designing Great Beers book any good? I've heard mixed feelings on both extremes about it, some say its amazing and very helpful for designing beers, others talked about it giving bad habits (which is why I never got it).
Fluo fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Mar 21, 2014 |
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Mar 21, 2014 04:03
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