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the spyder posted:I am so sick of my loving lawn mowers. I have three of the bastards and every one of them is broken in some terrible manner. (Mainly transmissions, bad starter, and blown bearings.) It's our fault for trying to use homeowner class mowers on ~2.5 acers of hilly lawn. I decided to junk two of them and I'm buying this tomorrow. http://www.hustlerturf.com/products/fastrak-sd I hope I can get at least 15 years out of it. Could you not get a used tractor and brush cutter?
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 01:16 |
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 03:58 |
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You can also get 1/2' drill bits with a smaller shank.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 01:22 |
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I've been beating on a $160 Ryobi benchtop drill press for half a decade now and it hasn't given up yet. That includes running 1" and 2.5" holesaws through 1/4" and 1" hot rolled steel plate on the lowest speed available, which is still several times what you're supposed to use for holesaws that size and I end up chattering my way through the plate instead of actually cutting. I did rattle the setscrew out of the quill pulley at one point, but loctite prevented that from happening again and it wouldn't have happened in the first place if I wasn't abusing the tool.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 01:31 |
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Christobevii3 posted:Could you not get a used tractor and brush cutter? It's finished lawn on the hill, though I am looking for a small Kubota with a front loader and tiller.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 02:08 |
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booshi posted:I've been building guitar pedals recently which means a bunch of drilling holes in aluminum enclosures. With a hand drill and a vise I can drill holes pretty well and, if I take my time, in good position. However it's a bit of a pain and making me miss having a drill press to knock these out much more quickly. I live in a condo and don't have a lot of space, so anything full size is too much. The largest hole size I cut is a 1/2", which makes it a pain to find something smaller that has a chuck to handle it. Would an adapter work okay in smaller, "desk top" drill presses? Or can someone recommend me something (max $150-200) that I could get to suit my needs? I got a desktop size 30's craftsman off CL for $150. It lives on my workbench and it is built like a tank. I'd try and get something older and used- estate sales around here (western NY) are good for old, sturdy tools.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 02:17 |
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I have one of these: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Oscillating-Drill-Press/W1667 I've only used it as a drill press, and I like it a lot. Minimum vibration, easy to change the speed. It's also super quiet, which is always nice.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 03:02 |
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I'm starting to get my home remodeling tools together. I've had a 9.6V DeWalt drill for the longest time, but that's not going to suffice for bigger jobs (namely tearing a bathroom down to the studs). Plus I want the Sawzall and the Circular Saw. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200400879_200400879 I can get this down to $450 and it has excellent reviews across the board. Anyone used it? Comments?
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 12:22 |
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Walked posted:I'm starting to get my home remodeling tools together. I've had a 9.6V DeWalt drill for the longest time, but that's not going to suffice for bigger jobs (namely tearing a bathroom down to the studs). Plus I want the Sawzall and the Circular Saw. I don't have the circular saw, but I use the rest of that kit for work and it's rock solid. I have the kit that has the impact driver, and that's pretty nice as well. My only complaint would be that the bag is obnoxiously big, butt hat is minor and easily remedied.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 14:10 |
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bengy81 posted:I don't have the circular saw, but I use the rest of that kit for work and it's rock solid. I have the kit that has the impact driver, and that's pretty nice as well. I'm agonizing between the impact driver and the hammer drill/driver piece. I think this is the way to go as I know I'll use the circular saw and can always pick up the impact driver for pretty cheap as an add-on later.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 14:25 |
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Walked posted:I'm agonizing between the impact driver and the hammer drill/driver piece. I think this is the way to go as I know I'll use the circular saw and can always pick up the impact driver for pretty cheap as an add-on later. If you can use it now, get the circular saw. I think you can buy the driver on its own for $100, or maybe get the 12v version for 80, not as powerful, but quite a bit lighter.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 14:43 |
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Gutting a bathroom? Start with a good 3 foot wrecking bar, a small prybar for pulling nails, and a beefy utility knife plus a 50 pack of blades if you don't have those already. Oh, and get yourself a box of these: http://www.demobags.com/content.aspx?page=demohome They will make your life a lot easier than the lovely 6mil black plastic bags. I can put enough demo debris (plaster, chunks of wood and lath, nails, broken glass, etc) in those bags that I can barely lift them (figure 250lbs or so) and then punt them out a second floor window into the bed of a truck without them bursting. The 110lb rating is extremely pessimistic.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 15:00 |
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kastein posted:Gutting a bathroom? Start with a good 3 foot wrecking bar, a small prybar for pulling nails, and a beefy utility knife plus a 50 pack of blades if you don't have those already. Oh I'm good on the demo tools. Just want to have the right hand tools for put it back together because most of what I've currently on hand is not quite what I want.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 15:05 |
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booshi posted:I've been building guitar pedals recently which means a bunch of drilling holes in aluminum enclosures. With a hand drill and a vise I can drill holes pretty well and, if I take my time, in good position. However it's a bit of a pain and making me miss having a drill press to knock these out much more quickly. I live in a condo and don't have a lot of space, so anything full size is too much. The largest hole size I cut is a 1/2", which makes it a pain to find something smaller that has a chuck to handle it. Would an adapter work okay in smaller, "desk top" drill presses? Or can someone recommend me something (max $150-200) that I could get to suit my needs? Whatever drill press you end up getting get a uni-bit to go with it. It'll save time in changing bits and cut cleaner holes.
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# ? Mar 24, 2014 15:43 |
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Walked posted:I'm starting to get my home remodeling tools together. I've had a 9.6V DeWalt drill for the longest time, but that's not going to suffice for bigger jobs (namely tearing a bathroom down to the studs). Plus I want the Sawzall and the Circular Saw. I have the circular and the hammer drill (and the hackzall variant of the sawzall). They're great. I've been using the circular a lot lately to cut up plywood sheets that my table saw can't handle. That's not cheap for 3 tools but the high capacity batteries don't come cheap, no matter how you get them. And the circular requires the big battery. I tried to think of better ways to arrive at that combination or similar but couldn't. Seems like a decent deal. I think you might want an impact and a compact battery eventually. Note that it should have the combo charger so you could move to M12 as well. Consider ebay for any tools you add. Lots of people sell extras from their combos for good prices. booshi posted:I've been building guitar pedals recently which means a bunch of drilling holes in aluminum enclosures. With a hand drill and a vise I can drill holes pretty well and, if I take my time, in good position. However it's a bit of a pain and making me miss having a drill press to knock these out much more quickly. I live in a condo and don't have a lot of space, so anything full size is too much. The largest hole size I cut is a 1/2", which makes it a pain to find something smaller that has a chuck to handle it. Would an adapter work okay in smaller, "desk top" drill presses? Or can someone recommend me something (max $150-200) that I could get to suit my needs? I got a delta 12" for $120 on craigslist. So in that budget you should have a lot of options.
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# ? Mar 25, 2014 01:42 |
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Uncle Enzo posted:TAPECHAT: I just wanted to congratulate you on your ~YELLOW~ Craftsman tape measure. I didn't think any existed anymore.
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# ? Mar 25, 2014 03:51 |
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Well my mother went to the workshop to make a picture frame for a stained glass piece she just finished and the old 1960's craftman table saw we use just decided to crack a worm gear so the blade can't be raised or lowered. I don't think I'm going to have to crack open my wallet to get that Grizzly Polar Bear table saw like I had planned, as I just got a phone call today from her saying, Mom: "What's a good table saw? I'm sick and tired of this one always breaking." Me: "So how much are you looing at spending?" Mom: "Don't care, just need a good one!" Me: "I think I know the one."
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# ? Mar 25, 2014 04:51 |
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bengy81 posted:I don't have the circular saw, but I use the rest of that kit for work and it's rock solid. I have the kit that has the impact driver, and that's pretty nice as well. I have that saw and just finished a project with it. It's pretty great, cuts fast and the battery life is pretty awesome. I mostly was just cutting plywood, 2x4s and some pegboard, but it made a whole shelf without needing to be charged inbetween. I can also say the M12 Line kicks all kinds of rear end, I've got a pretty decent collection of them so far: I have the M18 drill as well, but I can't say it's that great over the M12 version. I got just I could get an M18 battery for a good discount, but it doesn't seem that much more powerful, and it doesn't have a hammer function. But all around the Milwaukee tools have great battery life, feel very solid, and plus they have tons of tools for each line, so you can't really go wrong. Also they make a kickass heated jacket (Which I have) so...yeah, pretty awesome line. BTW, has anyone tried the M18 3/8 impact? I love my hex M12 there, and the electric rachet but I'd love to have something a bit beefier and with an impact function, so I'm considering picking one of those up.
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# ? Mar 25, 2014 07:45 |
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Can anyone recommend babby's first sharpening stone? What type/grit should I get if it's likely to be the only stone I have? I'm not looking to be a big knife enthusiast and have the Sharpest Edges Ever (not that there's anything wrong with that), so I don't want to spend a lot on really nice stones or a set of several. I'm also not looking to sharpen totally dead rusty lovely knives, so I probably don't need anything super coarse either. Things I expect to sharpen:
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# ? Mar 25, 2014 15:22 |
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alnilam posted:Can anyone recommend babby's first sharpening stone? What type/grit should I get if it's likely to be the only stone I have? I use a set of Eze-lap diamond stones for my chisels and handplanes: coarse, fine and super fine. You'd probably be ok with just the fine stone: http://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-81F-Fine-Diamond-Stone/dp/B002RL843U
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# ? Mar 25, 2014 16:35 |
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EZ lap diamond plates are a good deal (way cheaper than DMT). You can get smaller plate sizes for less money also. Their superfine is still not fine enough for a finished edge IMO so what I use is a piece of wood coated with a paste of oil and chromium oxide powder. Does a great job and super cheap
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# ? Mar 25, 2014 20:04 |
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Thanks! Just ordered a 1x6 version of the one you linked. Could you tell me more about this CrxOy technique? I found a few things on the internet, but not much. alnilam fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 25, 2014 |
# ? Mar 25, 2014 20:16 |
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alnilam posted:Thanks! Just ordered a 1x6 version of the one you linked. I've seen it done on both wood and leather: http://youtu.be/Ki8tt-VjwqI?t=18m30s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6ykVzL2VAM I've got the bar of chromium oxide but I've haven't tried it on wood or found a piece of scrap leather for a strop yet and my tools cut well enough with the superfine. It just depends on what you're doing with them.
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# ? Mar 25, 2014 22:00 |
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I mentioned hammers in another thread, and it reminded me of a thing I've been wondering about : why is the 4-pound one-handed minisledge called an "engineer's hammer"? The stubby 3-pound drilling hammer had a clear etymology, driving star drills in tight spaces, John Henry-style. The heavier, longer-handled version seems pretty appropriate for the Isambard Kingdom Brunel school of engineering, or would be pretty handy around a train. Speaking of engineers, the TF2 Engineer has the perfect melee weapon/tool -- the L. Coes Wrench was used for hammering back in the day. Note how it's all mushroomed to hell on the back faces because apparently they hadn't invented engineer's hammers in the '20s.
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# ? Mar 28, 2014 15:08 |
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Thumposaurus posted:Whatever drill press you end up getting get a uni-bit to go with it. A few days late to the discussion as usual, but I was going to suggest this exact same thing. I cut the holes in my Hammond-style aluminum enclosures with a $15 set of auto parts store unibits and have always been pleased with the results. Center punch the location, set the depth on the press, and get perfect holes every time!
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# ? Mar 30, 2014 20:16 |
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Looking through a catalogue, and saw something interesting. A king Industrial table saw, that looks exactly like the Grizzly Polar Bear I was interested in. King Industrial Grizzly Polar bear I knew that Shop Fox/Grizzly were the same thing, (it's the same source photo for both) Can anyone tell me if the King/Grizzly/Shop Fox are the same saw? Anyone know the name of their parent company/supplier who actually manufactures it? All three are 2HP, 52" 220V saws that look identical with the exception of the plates/stickers and the King doesn't have that plastic tension nut on the two handles that control blade elevation and angle. If they are the same units, then I could get the King from a local dealer and for less than Amazon. I've tried googling and found the link between Grizzly/Shop Fox, but there has not been enough discussion on the King saw to verify. Thanks.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 01:20 |
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alnilam posted:Things I expect to sharpen: The Invisible Edge here in the UK does good hones at great prices, I have their 12k Chinese budget stone. Shipping to the US is super reasonable too. http://www.theinvisibleedge.co.uk/razorhones.html
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 11:53 |
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Blistex posted:Can anyone tell me if the King/Grizzly/Shop Fox are the same saw? Anyone know the name of their parent company/supplier who actually manufactures it? Baileigh is another company with products that look nearly identical to Grizzly. These companies are rebranding Taiwanese or Chinese made equipment which are nearly alike but usually have differences based on how much the importer wants to pay for quality control and customization. Even on Shop Fox and Grizzly, there can be differences in the internals. Grizzly is basically what Jet was in the 60's-70's, they aren't designing machinery, just customizing and reselling.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 17:55 |
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Several years ago I was told Grizzly/ShopFox, Jet, King, HF, and Baileigh all bought from the same supplier with different quality levels. Example: Harbor Freight 9x20 lathe is identical to the Grizzly 9x20, with the main difference being the quality control standards (outside of color, some knobs, ext). Let's say a batch fails QC standards for Grizzly or Jet, these become HF units. The same goes for drill presses, table saws, grinders, ect.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 20:46 |
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This is what I was thinking, as the King is 3 hundred less than the Grizzly but appears to be identical. Thanks!
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 22:00 |
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the spyder posted:Several years ago I was told Grizzly/ShopFox, Jet, King, HF, and Baileigh all bought from the same supplier with different quality levels. Example: Harbor Freight 9x20 lathe is identical to the Grizzly 9x20, with the main difference being the quality control standards (outside of color, some knobs, ext). Let's say a batch fails QC standards for Grizzly or Jet, these become HF units. The same goes for drill presses, table saws, grinders, ect. Almost all of those brands and a lot of other powertool brands are manufactured by Chang Type Industrial Co, Ltd. in Taiwan. Here's their (pretty non-informative) website https://www.toty.com.tw Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 10:07 on Apr 4, 2014 |
# ? Apr 4, 2014 10:05 |
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http://www.toty.com.tw/english/02_our_business/02_our_clients_oem_odm_brands.html Looks like that's the source for Dewalt/B+D, Ryobi, and Craftsman. Wow.
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# ? Apr 4, 2014 21:05 |
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the spyder posted:http://www.toty.com.tw/english/02_our_business/02_our_clients_oem_odm_brands.html Dad gave me this for Christmas a few years ago: He paid too much: Edit: Wow, I only just noticed the reviews. Edit: wait, the switch is on the other side. The gently caress? They're identical in every respect except colors and the back half of the top cover is mirrored, but only the back of the top cover (well, and the $40 accessory kit). Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Apr 4, 2014 |
# ? Apr 4, 2014 21:58 |
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the spyder posted:http://www.toty.com.tw/english/02_our_business/02_our_clients_oem_odm_brands.html And Delta, they are new owners. Delivery McGee posted:Edit: wait, the switch is on the other side. The gently caress? They're identical in every respect except colors and the back half of the top cover is mirrored, but only the back of the top cover (well, and the $40 accessory kit). Same thing we were saying about saws, they might look alike but that doesn't mean they were built to the same standards. A good example is Sear's 9" band saw, it's the same base machine as HF and many others except the Sears model has upgraded and hand balanced wheels, bearings + a slightly better motor. wormil fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Apr 4, 2014 |
# ? Apr 4, 2014 22:53 |
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Delivery McGee posted:(well, and the $40 accessory kit). You also got a brad nailer out of it. That's got to be worth at least $20.
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 00:47 |
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the spyder posted:http://www.toty.com.tw/english/02_our_business/02_our_clients_oem_odm_brands.html There are plenty other brands that aren't advertised on their site. They are pretty much the mother of hobby-power-tools, but somehow they manage to stay in the shadow. I'm willing to bet that not a single person reading this doesn't own a Chang Type Industrial tool. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Apr 5, 2014 |
# ? Apr 5, 2014 01:57 |
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Sir Cornelius posted:I'm willing to bet that not a single person reading this doesn't own a Chang Type Industrial tool. I'm legit curious, know of any way to confirm it's one of theirs?
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 03:31 |
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stubblyhead posted:I'm legit curious, know of any way to confirm it's one of theirs? Nope. But they pretty much all are unless it's lower-end tools made in China.
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 09:53 |
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Sir Cornelius posted:Nope. But they pretty much all are unless it's lower-end tools made in China. Hey! Xi Jinping, Taiwan =/= China!
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 17:14 |
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Blistex posted:Hey! Xi Jinping, Taiwan =/= China! Did I state otherwise, Mr. Obvious? (Yes, I don't give a gently caress. There are two Chinas) Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Apr 5, 2014 |
# ? Apr 5, 2014 17:26 |
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 03:58 |
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I try to explain the tool quality trickle-down by comparing it to processor grading.
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# ? Apr 5, 2014 17:42 |