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So I am aware of what happens when yeast is fermenting at hotter then normal range temps, but what exactly happens when i am below ? Simply a stalled ferment ? The crazy weather on the east coast has my expected temps from 60 going to 55 and pushing 20 outside. This should make my current 55 temps go even lower. I'm using Danstar Nottingham Ale Yeast for a oatmeal stout, which claims to go 57°-70° F
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Mar 25, 2014 14:10
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Thanks for all the Porter Pointers you guys! I've merged the ideas here with what I had in my head and come up with this. Go ahead and rip it apart: http://brewtoad.com/recipes/homebrewers-pantry-porter My goal is to go pretty big as I already have a cake of Burton sitting at the bottom of an English IPA I did, and I figure that's going to be the best way to get poo poo done as fast as possible. The reason I included things like carapils/oats/wheat is because I hate homebrew porters that feel really thin, so I wanted to create at least the illusion of body (but hopefully the real thing). Columbus and Chinook just because I love that combo and it worked really well in my gf's recent stout ... and also  e: 3 gal because I'm not planning on drinking a whole lot of this and we're tight on bottles as it is. 2xe: VVV I'll pump up the roast. I was trying to keep the color away from black just to make it a little more interesting but I think that would probably cause more harm than good. fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 14:13
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edit: ^^ Seems a little low on roast to me but that will probably make it drinkable faster. If you weren't in a crunch I'd probably double the chocolate malt but other than that it looks good. It also might help to shoot for the lower end of the style but I've never used that yeast strain so I don't know how fast it works. Roundboy posted:So I am aware of what happens when yeast is fermenting at hotter then normal range temps, but what exactly happens when i am below ? Simply a stalled ferment ? You can get diacetyl, phenols, or just a really bland flavor from being too clean depending on the yeast and the beer. I've never taken Nottingham that low but I can tell you that BRY-97 should not be fermented too cool. internet celebrity fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 14:17
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Angry Grimace posted:Sounds good. Porter isn't too difficult. Plus side you don't have to wait for clarity or anything. Do you mean Biofine? If so, that's good to know; I have some vegan friends that like beer and while I like clear beer, I also don't like putting ingredients in that would ruin their ability to drink the beer.
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Mar 25, 2014 15:19
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Its more expensive than gelatin for sure, but it seems to work better and require less effort.
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Has anyone screwed around with making a peach wine? It sounds really tasty. Coming from mead making, I pretty much know I'm not super keen on adding pounds and pounds of extra sugar; But all the recipes I see call for it. I'm thinking why not just use a fuckload of peaches? \/ \/ \/ I only plan on doing this for a 1 gallon batch \/ \/ \/ 10 Lbs Peaches sliced Bourbon soaked oak in secondary Since 10 lbs of peaches is probably leaving 0 space left for actual wine. I'm going to cook the peaches in water. I did this for a strawberry mead where I boiled all the juice out of the strawberries and fermented that. I'll have mixed the peach slices up with a fair amount of pectic enzyme to aid in final product clarity and juice extraction. Then I'm going to pour the sugar peach water into my fermenter (straining out the peaches), and then boil them in some more water until I have the full gallon volume. I'm aiming for a starting gravity of 1.125 and a final ABV of 15.5% (1.005 FG)
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Mar 25, 2014 15:44
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crazyfish posted:Do you mean Biofine? If so, that's good to know; I have some vegan friends that like beer and while I like clear beer, I also don't like putting ingredients in that would ruin their ability to drink the beer. I was gonna say... isn't putting bromine in your beer a very bad idea? Reminds me of when my brother accidentally said he'd been purging his beers with CO religiously.
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Mar 25, 2014 16:54
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Whoo, finally getting to bottle those bitters I brewed over a month ago! I apparently had a six pack of bottles that hadn't gotten rinsed out when they were emptied...whoops! That's always a fun discovery  E: poo poo, make that like a case...I usually rinse them out as soon as I empty them, unless I'm drunk and forget... One is otherwise clean, but has a dead ant in it! We haven't had ants around here in like six months! 
BLARGHLE fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 19:25
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crazyfish posted:Do you mean Biofine? If so, that's good to know; I have some vegan friends that like beer and while I like clear beer, I also don't like putting ingredients in that would ruin their ability to drink the beer. Yeah, I typed that on my W8 tablet and its really stubborn about proper name correction. Its Biofine. What I really liked (outside of the quick clearing) was that it was so easy to use. I just dumped ~1/2 the bottle into the top of the keg, and then forced carbed it with a little shaking (to get the Biofine mixed up) and it was running very clear in 24 hours after I poured off the sediment-y pint of beer. The actual shaking may have been important - a lot of people who don't have luck with Biofine apparently have issues due to getting it properly mixed in with the beer. I have a sachet of Polyclar VT too, if you're interested in hearing about it, I'll give it a shot on my next pale beer. Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 20:03
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Hey Blarghile, did you ever get around to making that 30 day mead (form your secret santa)? I'm always wondering how it came out.
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Mar 25, 2014 20:04
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Hey Blarghile, did you ever get around to making that 30 day mead (form your secret santa)? I'm always wondering how it came out. I've been wanting to, but I never have time! My plan has been to do it some evening while I'm making dinner, but I'm always working. I'm definitely going to make time in the next week, though, now that all of my fermenters are empty.
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Mar 25, 2014 20:21
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A guy from the neighborhood dropped this off at the homebrew shop my wife works at:
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Mar 25, 2014 22:30
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Brewing a no-boil Berlinerweiss this weekend. I'm wary of doing a sour mash this time so I'll be pitching a healthy starter of lacto and a kolsch yeast. I do like a bit of complexity to Berliners, have any of you experimented with adding dregs to yours? If so, how did they turn out? Which dregs did you add?
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Mar 25, 2014 23:16
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Marshmallow Blue posted:10 lbs of peaches What is stopping you from just letting them macerate in sugared water for a couple days? It doesn't have to be syrup. Just a thought experiment. I remember as kids my mother would slice a massive bowl of strawberries and toss them in some sugar, and by the time we finished them the bottom of the bowl would be the most wonderful mushy strawberry goo. I'm sure it could work for peaches too. My own question: I'm doing a test batch of session skeeter pee for a friend's wedding. Any tips from those whom have done it? Or is it straight forward? He's looking for a 'lightly fermented (2-3%) strawberry lemonade'. My thought process is do skeeter pee and add strawberries post ferment (maybe even sorbate/capden it). Sound about right?
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Mar 26, 2014 03:53
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hellfaucet posted:Brewing a no-boil Berlinerweiss this weekend. I'm wary of doing a sour mash this time so I'll be pitching a healthy starter of lacto and a kolsch yeast. I do like a bit of complexity to Berliners, have any of you experimented with adding dregs to yours? I'm interested in trying this at some point. Would you be able to post notes/recipe/etc. as you go along? The only sour mash I've done so far came out awful. Literally tastes like 
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Mar 26, 2014 04:32
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Okay. I think I'm going to make some sours/lambics/Berliners. Where do I go/what should I read that gets me started?
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Mar 26, 2014 04:52
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LaserWash posted:Okay. I think I'm going to make some sours/lambics/Berliners. Where do I go/what should I read that gets me started? http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2009/11/brewing-sour-beer-at-home.html http://www.amazon.com/Wild-Brews-Culture-Craftsmanship-Tradition/dp/0937381861 Lesser blogs include: http://ryanbrews.blogspot.com/ http://www.funkfactorygeuzeria.com/ http://embracethefunk.com/ Cointelprofessional fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Mar 26, 2014 |
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Mar 26, 2014 05:39
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Jacobey000 posted:What is stopping you from just letting them macerate in sugared water for a couple days? It doesn't have to be syrup. Just a thought experiment. I remember as kids my mother would slice a massive bowl of strawberries and toss them in some sugar, and by the time we finished them the bottom of the bowl would be the most wonderful mushy strawberry goo. I'm sure it could work for peaches too. Good idea, I'll macerate the peaches with sugar + pectic enzyme, then continue with my planned process the next day. I just won't be adding whole peach chunks into the fermenter because I want at least three 750ml wine bottles by the end of it.
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Mar 26, 2014 13:53
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Jacobey000 posted:What is stopping you from just letting them macerate in sugared water for a couple days? It doesn't have to be syrup. Just a thought experiment. I remember as kids my mother would slice a massive bowl of strawberries and toss them in some sugar, and by the time we finished them the bottom of the bowl would be the most wonderful mushy strawberry goo. I'm sure it could work for peaches too. Usually SP is ~8-10%, but otherwise sounds like a plan. Some HBT people just get Strawberry lemonade frozen juice concentrate (or raspberry, limeade, etc.) and mix it with water and ferment that out. Someone on these forums suggested adding a little DME instead of pure sugar to give it some body, and that worked well in my only batch.
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Mar 26, 2014 14:18
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Has anyone got any advice on kegging at higher than recommended temperatures? I have a couple of kegs with beer in at the moment that are force carbonating and the ambient temperature in the room is about 20C, from reading the charts of recommended carbing pressure I've been pushing about 22psi of CO2 but everywhere seems to recommend actually serving at about 10-12psi. Am I going to want to let it carb up and release some gas and then serve, or should I be ok to just serve it still connected up to the 22psi? Unfortunately I'm currently in temporary accommodation so putting it all in my kegerator isn't an option at the moment.
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Mar 26, 2014 14:44
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Fluo posted:Basics Jo3sh posted:I like something like this (Best Bitter rather than OB, but delightful anyhow): Bottled both of these yesterday. I did 3 gallons of each, and then took the remaining 1.5 gallons of both and blended them together. When I had transferred them to secondary a couple of weeks ago(they had already been done fermenting for at least a week), Jo3sh's had been very flavorful and nutty, but as thin as water(I'm thinking I need a thermapen or something for my mash temps), whereas Fluo's had been thicker and malty, but too clouded with sediment to do much tasting. I had a half a bottle of the blend leftover when I was done, and it was definitely a combination of those two things- nice mouthfeel, and nutty flavor. Just a big old mouthful of nuts! So, now I'm curious to see how all of them end up once they've had some time to carbonate. Also, what the hell am I going to brew next? I'm thinking california common or cream ale, but my girlfriend wants me to try to replicate Samuel Smith's Banana Bread Beer. Most of the recipes I found for banana bread beers online seem...questionable. BLARGHLE fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Mar 26, 2014 |
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Mar 26, 2014 14:55
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Second No-Chill Trip Report 8 days into bottle conditioning my Smash Pale (Maris Otter/Northern Brewer), this is the head. I'm hoping I didn't overcarb. Taste: A little thinner than I would've liked. My mash temps trended lower than anticipated, so that's a procedural flaw. No off-flavors that I noticed. No DMS. I prepared a bit better for the longer time and great isomerization during cooling and it showed. No harsh bitterness, only smoothness. Similar to FWH. The Northern Brewer didn't do as well dry-hopping as I had hoped. It smelled fantastic, but didn't translate well to the beer. Oh well. Sessionable pale thats a little thin but very refreshing. Pretty psyched. I can somewhat conclude that No Chill done properly doesn't really create any hosed up off flavors on its own. I don't know about long term flavor stability yet, but early returns are fantastic. I will be doing a pilsner-heavy patersbier soon (with a longer boil, at least 90), so I guess that'll be the true DMS test.
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Mar 26, 2014 15:32
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Here's my article on the second generation Lambic Mead! http://hivemindmead.blogspot.com/2014/03/second-generation-lambic-mead.html Or here's the carbon copy. Storm II - 2nd Generation Lambic Mead Mead using ale yeast and bacteria Ingredients Units for 1 gallon: 1.75 pounds of Honey (I used Snowberry) ~1/4 Pound Maltodextrin Yeast : WYeast Lambic Blend: Cake and saved lees slurry Starting Gravity: 1.073 Secondary: Maltodextrin, Oak Process I pitched a new must onto the cake from my previously bottled Lambic Mead.I also pitched a saved slurry from the primary. Pitched on 3/18 8 days: Still in Lag phase/ no visible signs of fermentation. I've read that sour cakes and second (and beyond) generation bugs can sour your must in as little as 2 weeks. I also listened to a show on Sours on the The Brewing Network that said that lacto will out produce Brett in the up to 11 day lag that Brettanomyces can have. Because of this I'm going to pour a small sample and see if my must is already considerably sour.
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Mar 26, 2014 16:04
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BLARGHLE posted:Also, what the hell am I going to brew next? I'm thinking california common or cream ale, but my girlfriend wants me to try to replicate Samuel Smith's Banana Bread Beer. Most of the recipes I found for banana bread beers online seem...questionable. Do you mean Wells Banana Bread Beer? I haven't tried it as it sounds weird to me, but apparently they put real bananas in it. You might try her on a Bavarian-syle hefeweizen, which doesn't use bananas, but has a banana-clove flavor from the yeast.
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Mar 26, 2014 17:20
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A while back, someone linked to some fairly cheap food-grade high temperature pumps on eBay or otherwise; does anyone remember this and could possibly link me to them? I'm considering yet another gear upgrade, and some kind of small-scale RIMS/HERMS system might be in the cards. I want to get this pump mostly to experiment with, so I don't need something super expensive right off the bat.
crazyfish fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Mar 26, 2014 |
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Mar 26, 2014 17:22
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DJ Burette posted:Has anyone got any advice on kegging at higher than recommended temperatures? I have a couple of kegs with beer in at the moment that are force carbonating and the ambient temperature in the room is about 20C, from reading the charts of recommended carbing pressure I've been pushing about 22psi of CO2 but everywhere seems to recommend actually serving at about 10-12psi. Am I going to want to let it carb up and release some gas and then serve, or should I be ok to just serve it still connected up to the 22psi? I may be misunderstanding you, but I've had my morning coffee and feel good about taking a stab at an answer... CO2 will enter the solution faster at lower temperatures, but at room temp (20°C) it'll still only be a matter of force-carbing for ~3 days with intermittent shaking to help it along before you're at the point you'd want to either a) disconnect until serving or b) drop it to 10-12 PSI & get it to your kegerator to serve, depending on when you can get it into your fridge. You won't want to serve at 22 PSI no matter what. The golden rule is that it's always easier to carb up a beer that's not quite where you want it than to de-gas every day and deal with massive foam heads on your pints until it calms back down.
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Mar 26, 2014 18:50
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wattershed posted:I may be misunderstanding you, but I've had my morning coffee and feel good about taking a stab at an answer... Yeah, I think I've explained fairly poorly. I'm carbing at the same temperature that I will be serving it at (~20C), will it be fine to serve at the recommended psi for 20C or do I still need to drop it to serve?
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Mar 26, 2014 19:14
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Jo3sh posted:Do you mean Wells Banana Bread Beer? I haven't tried it as it sounds weird to me, but apparently they put real bananas in it. You might try her on a Bavarian-syle hefeweizen, which doesn't use bananas, but has a banana-clove flavor from the yeast. Yeah, that was exactly what I meant...don't know where Samuel Smith's came from. A couple of the recipes I found used real banana in the mash or primary, and I gather that's what Wells does as well, but it just looked gross as hell. I was kinda planning on getting some more gallon jugs to do single gallon batches of the four most legit looking recipes I found.
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Mar 26, 2014 19:18
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DJ Burette posted:Yeah, I think I've explained fairly poorly. I'm carbing at the same temperature that I will be serving it at (~20C), will it be fine to serve at the recommended psi for 20C or do I still need to drop it to serve? You'll need a crapload of serving line of the smallest practical diameter you can find to provide balance. But assuming you can do that, it should pour OK and not be overcarbed or gush.
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Mar 26, 2014 19:21
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DJ Burette posted:Yeah, I think I've explained fairly poorly. I'm carbing at the same temperature that I will be serving it at (~20C), will it be fine to serve at the recommended psi for 20C or do I still need to drop it to serve? Drop it when you're serving. Raise it back when you are done. Alternative answer: comically long serving hose.
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Mar 26, 2014 19:22
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wattershed posted:I may be misunderstanding you, but I've had my morning coffee and feel good about taking a stab at an answer... Its not that CO2 will enter the solution faster at lower temperatures, its that more of it will enter solution at a lower temperature. Henry's Law and all that. Jo3sh posted:You'll need a crapload of serving line of the smallest practical diameter you can find to provide balance. But assuming you can do that, it should pour OK and not be overcarbed or gush. You could almost literally just run it through the entire roll of line, I guess. The other option is to find something to increase restriction in a shorter line (there are things people have inserted down the line to do this, but I forget where).
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Mar 26, 2014 20:01
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LeeMajors posted:I prepared a bit better for the longer time and great isomerization during cooling and it showed. No harsh bitterness, only smoothness. Similar to FWH. What did your hop schedule look like to account for this?
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Mar 26, 2014 20:14
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fullroundaction posted:What did your hop schedule look like to account for this? I don't have my notebook on me at the moment, but I moved my 60min addition back 20min (@40), halved the amount, and did the other half at 20min. Most no-chill guides recommend moving them back 20, but I wanted to space them out a little for bittering. It probably takes about 2hrs for it drop below 170F in the winpack container, so I just use the IBU calc for 100% utilization @60min. I just wanted to smooth it out so it wasn't as much of a kick in the teeth as it was in my first brew. For future lighter beers that are lighter on hops, I'll almost certainly have to drop the amounts significantly--like the aforementioned patersbier or upcoming saisons. It's certainly a work in progress.
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Mar 26, 2014 20:18
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Angry Grimace posted:You could almost literally just run it through the entire roll of line, I guess. The other option is to find something to increase restriction in a shorter line (there are things people have inserted down the line to do this, but I forget where). You could get some epoxy mixers, extract the cores, and insert those inside a serving line.
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Mar 26, 2014 20:19
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crazyfish posted:A while back, someone linked to some fairly cheap food-grade high temperature pumps on eBay or otherwise; does anyone remember this and could possibly link me to them? I'm considering yet another gear upgrade, and some kind of small-scale RIMS/HERMS system might be in the cards. I want to get this pump mostly to experiment with, so I don't need something super expensive right off the bat. I found the one I was talking about, posted by jacobey000 a few weeks ago: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-108GP...=item257a293633 It's cheap enough that picking up one of these up along with 12V adapter sits comfortably in "worthy experiment" territory, but if anyone's actually used it please do let me know.
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Mar 26, 2014 20:28
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Decided against making the zombie dust clone as I don't have a mash tun yet, thinking about doing this recipe from homebrewtalk. Recipe Type: Extract Yeast: Wyeast 1056 Yeast Starter: No Additional Yeast or Yeast Starter: No Batch Size (Gallons): 5 Original Gravity: 1.057 Final Gravity: 1.015 IBU: 70 Boiling Time (Minutes): 60 Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 7 Additional Fermentation: Bottle Conditioned Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 7 Tasting Notes: Lots of peach and tropical notes. Light and refreshing IPA, not overly bitter. Took home 1st Place in the IPA Category at Amador County Fair. Enjoy! 3.3 lbs Extra Light LME - 60 Min Boil 3.3 lbs Extra Light LME - 30 Min Boil 1 lb Crystal 10L - Steeped at 150F for 20 Min 1 lb Carapils - Steeped at 150F for 20 Min 1 oz Citra - 60 Min Boil 1 oz Citra - 15 Min Boil 1 oz Citra - 10 Min Boil 1 oz Citra - 5 Min Boil 1 oz Citra - Flameout 3 oz Citra - DH 7 day primary, 7 day secondary with Dry Hop. However, my homebrew store just has these lme's. What shall I choose? http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/3-3lb-cans/
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Mar 27, 2014 01:53
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Harminoff posted:However, my homebrew store just has these lme's. What shall I choose? I'd use the golden light. The Pilsner extract will be paler, but it will (ought to, anyway) have a Continental flavor that's not really right for an IPA.
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Mar 27, 2014 02:23
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crazyfish posted:I found the one I was talking about, posted by jacobey000 a few weeks ago: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-108GP...=item257a293633 It's cheap enough that picking up one of these up along with 12V adapter sits comfortably in "worthy experiment" territory, but if anyone's actually used it please do let me know. In the local group buy, folks seem to like them. I've also seen a few dudes on HBT say they've used them 9 months+. I've just got to bite the bullet and buy one to see how I like it before traveling down the RIMS road. You can pretty much just look for 12 V DC food grade pumps, there are a bajillion on there. Also note: they are coming from China (some of them) so there is a bit of a wait at times.
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Mar 27, 2014 03:26
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Has anyone used these Mangrove Jack dry yeasts? I did tell gallons of a Boh Dunk and thought I'd try out the M84 because the idea of a southern style dry strain is quite appealing. I oxygenated for 2 min (1L per/min) and pitched the packs straight in at 47F. I let em rise to 50F and the other carboy with different yeast started within 36 hours as usual. I checked this morning and the M84 still hasn't started. Are they typically this slow of starters? This seems to be getting a little silly after 4 days.
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Mar 27, 2014 12:41
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Anyone have a raspberry porter recipe to recommend?
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Mar 27, 2014 21:35
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By request here's the hoppy saison I sent to LeafHouse for the BIF. This turned out really well. I had it force carbed at only 10 days and took it to a homebrew club meeting and it received good reviews (40 overall) from the certified BJCP judges there, people were shocked that I had only brewed it 10 days before. After letting it condition for two more weeks it got even more estery and delicious. Make a big 2L starter of Wyeast 3711 two days before I only get around 60% efficiency so you'll need to adjust the grain bill to match your efficiency numbers. This is a 5 gallon batch. grain bill: 11 lb. pilsner malt 2 lb, wheat malt 4 oz acid malt 1 oz roasted barley (I added it just for color but I'm not sure if it really did much) We have really soft water in CT so I adjusted the water a bit 6g gypsum 6g Calcium Chloride 4g epsom salts 4 ml 88% lactic acid added to the sparge water Mash for 75 min @ 148F target pre-boil gravity: 1.049 Boil for 70 min 1 oz. Santiam hops @ 30 min 1 oz. Santiam @ 10 min I let things steep for 15 min at the end of the boil, then cool to 185 F Add 2 oz. Galaxy hops, steep for 30 min then chill as usual target OG: 1.055 32 IBU oxygenate your wort thoroughly, chill your starter and decant extra liquid and pitch it into that badboy. I set primary fermentation @ 68F. After the krausen subsided in 2-3 days I slowly ramped up the temperature to 78 F after 10 days, then I racked it to a keg and force carbed/chilled etc. My final gravity was 1.002. Alternatively you could ramp up the temps then after 10 days return it to a normal temp and let it condition in primary for another week or two at 68-70.
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Mar 28, 2014 03:18
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