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I need a matte varnish that wont damage my enamel based metallics. Who has a good recommendation for an acrylic matte varnish i can shoot out of my airbrush?
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 00:35 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 08:53 |
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dexefiend posted:I need a matte varnish that wont damage my enamel based metallics. I use Liquitex Matte Varnish over Future. It's very matte and I'm actually going to cut it 50/50 with Liquitex Satin Varnish as pure Matte can frost up and mess with some colors a bit if you go too heavy. I also have Testors Dull Coat Lacqure; I haven't used it yet but from what I've seen it works very well.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 02:26 |
Water effects finished drying. I might add another layer to make it deeper but it looks pretty good as is. I bought the fumaroles here http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Pc-Set-of-Fumaroles-or-Creepy-Burrows-3T-Studios-Resin-Terrain-Bits-WH-40k-/251423689074 How does this look? I feel like I need to add some tufts of grass or something but Scenic Express stuff is like $7 for one kind of grass or flowers. Do they(or a similar company) sell a variety pack or something? I want all my terrain to have a sort of wet/jungle planet theme. Also holy poo poo having a phone with a nice camera helps so much.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 02:26 |
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Jesus loving christ, MGMT and Empire Of The Sun are Harlequins. Terrific re-purposing of the vacuform crater, really great piece to represent Mysterious Terrain.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 02:35 |
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serious gaylord posted:So, this is quite possibly one of the best Phantoms I've ever seen. I have found the perfect cherry blossom
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 03:16 |
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Welp, that titan is truly the apex of awesome van painting eldar, and a real hard act to follow. I painted up these Trollkin Warders and they took for freaking ever to finish. So much detail that I completely burnt out on them in early November, after finishing the leader (the guy with the fancy shield) who I was using as a test model for the general scheme. I'm almost certainly going to go back and add tartans to their tabards, but the dumb things took so much out of me that that gets to wait until I'm done with my current array of heavy warbeasts. So far I'm done up to here with Mulg, who apparently jacked someone's nice fancy curtains as a loincloth. He still needs glow effects to be finished by airbrush (the blue runes on his back and green runes on his log are the base of those), more work put into his face, some more done to his skin (especially his gut, not pictured) which needs better highlighting (his right hand is the biggest problem area, but his belly (not pictured) is also quite uneven), and some other overall general cleanup. I don't know if I'm overall happy with the stone, I may throw some darker pigments into the crevices before I go in and do the glows.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 09:30 |
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Pyrolocutus posted:I recently picked up a Stormwall for Warmachine, and while I'm still cleaning it up, I'm going to be starting on painting it in the next month or two. My brother suggested that I use spraypaint to account for the white areas I plan to have on my Stormwall, owing to the sheer size of it. I use Krylon White for primer, but would Krylon Flat White be good over it, or is there another suggested white spraypaint? Personally, I use Krylon Flat White (or black) for priming. I find the regular paints to be a little too glossy (and obviously, the gloss is unusable.) I think Krylon Flat is pretty much the non-Army Painter spray of choice when it comes to miniature priming.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 13:15 |
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serious gaylord posted:So, this is quite possibly one of the best Phantoms I've ever seen. Pack it in, folks. We're done here.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 13:42 |
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Yeah I'd never wondered what galactic camoflage would look like but now I know
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 13:47 |
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Some assorted Trollbloods stuff I've painted over the past few months: Fennblade Kithkar: Storm Troll: Trollkin Warders:
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 16:14 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Some assorted Trollbloods stuff I've painted over the past few months: How are you doing your skin? I've tried a few different methods and there's nothing I'm really happy with, yours looks pretty neat
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 20:23 |
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serious gaylord posted:So, this is quite possibly one of the best Phantoms I've ever seen. I wish there were more shots of it like this but closer. I WANT TO BE CLOSER. *ahem* Anyway, so I'm working on a Nightscythe. Haven't attached the portal or the gently caress-off laser since my magnets are still in the mail. I want to do a little more since my scheme is all ho-hum run of the mill metal men and outside of basing and maybe adding decals I can't think of what. Anyone have any suggestions?
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 20:25 |
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Personally I'd leave it as is, I really like the subdued, not-overly-flashy look.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 20:28 |
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Magnetizing trip report, I'm making good progress and gotten two out of five guns done. Only drawback is that I didn't have a non-electric drill available in the house so it's a bit slow work doing it by hand but the results look good. Should probably get it all done by Friday or something. Still need to figure out how to base them though.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 20:34 |
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Man I want to see a video on just how they did that titan. Here's a "as I got it" and after I fixed it up comparison of Kharn I got off ebay. I never realised his pistol arm comes off as looking really stubby. Before: After:
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 22:18 |
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You did a really awesome job on that Kharn. The one negative comment I would make is that the coloration on the hair/fur tufts is almost identical to that on the skulls, and that creates a confusing impression. I would have tried to paint them something that contrasted with both the armor and the bone.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 22:22 |
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ijyt posted:Personally I'd leave it as is, I really like the subdued, not-overly-flashy look. Me too, I think I'll do what you suggest and leave it as is and try to add a few decals without screwing it up. The last time I tried to apply a decal was in my teens and it didn't end up well. VolatileSky posted:Before: Kharn may be the Betrayer, I think he'd definitely Befriend you after this great ebay save and paintjob.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 22:46 |
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AndyElusive posted:Me too, I think I'll do what you suggest and leave it as is and try to add a few decals without screwing it up. The last time I tried to apply a decal was in my teens and it didn't end up well. The only thing I can think of is maybe some subtle OSL, and Microsol/set are your friends for decals.
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 23:01 |
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AndyElusive posted:I wish there were more shots of it like this but closer. I WANT TO BE CLOSER. Ash and ye shall receive
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# ? Apr 2, 2014 23:43 |
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Is this in a museum or gallery somewhere?
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 00:11 |
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Amazing. I'll be putting water-effects on a GW non-lipped base, what's the best way to stop the thing spilling over and to have a nice smooth edge?
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 00:11 |
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ijyt posted:Amazing. Disclaimer: I haven't actually done this, but maybe wrap masking tape around the edge and peel it away after curing?
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 00:14 |
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JerryLee posted:Disclaimer: I haven't actually done this, but maybe wrap masking tape around the edge and peel it away after curing? This seems to be what people do for the edges of terrain boards, but I don't know how well it would work with a full wrap-around on a base
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 00:16 |
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Hubis posted:This seems to be what people do for the edges of terrain boards, but I don't know how well it would work with a full wrap-around on a base Luckily it's not a full wrap, just the front half of a 120mm oval base. I'm trying to go for a canyon river bank look. I'll test out the masking tape method on a smaller base first though.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 00:21 |
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JerryLee posted:Disclaimer: I haven't actually done this, but maybe wrap masking tape around the edge and peel it away after curing? This should work just fine (in theory) as long as you can get a really good bond between the tape and the base. If it isn't pressed down really well glue will seep between the tape and the base. You could also try doing the same thing with electrical tape which is not porous and has better adhesive than masking tape
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 00:22 |
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Does the stuff usually dry quite hard? If there's a period where it's a bit like a solid jelly then I could always try carving away a bit off overspill.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 00:25 |
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enri posted:How are you doing your skin? I've tried a few different methods and there's nothing I'm really happy with, yours looks pretty neat Thanks man. It starts with a white primer. I then apply a somewhat thin basecoat of Trollblood Base, then wash it with old GW Asurmen Blue. Unfortunately that's super hard to find, though I lucked into a stash of 6 bottles awhile back. I hoard it like a miser. Anyway. I think the new GW blue wash is nice but far too dark. There are probably other suitable replacements for the Asurmen out there though. After that I reapply the basecoat. Highlights are done by adding progressively greater amounts of P3 Frostbite (not Trollblood Highlight) to the Trollblood base. If I'm going all out with highlights, I'll start adding MWH towards the end for the extreme highlights. That's the basic recipe (props to pro painter and e-celeb PaintVagrant for originally showing it to me), but I vary it to get slightly different shades. For example, infantry basecoats often start with some Frostbite already added, since I like beasts to be a bit darker than infantry. Sometimes I'll throw some Trollblood Highlight in there just to be different, but I'm not crazy about it.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 01:05 |
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Thanks, I just had such a visceral reaction of hatred to the black/purple tassles they'd attempted to paint I went the opposite direction. Thinking on it I should switch it to a grayscale rather.serious gaylord posted:Ash and ye shall receive It just doesn't compute in my head how that hexagon patterning is done. Like I can understand the nebula/lightning effects even if I can't do them myself yet. And then there's the traingular patterning on the hip. I don't even.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 02:05 |
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Hexagons are (probably) some stencil work using a mesh to mask off areas, with the triangles being subdivisions of that with a really steady hand, or a lot of very meticulous layered masking. loving spectacular job, in any case.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 02:37 |
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ijyt posted:The only thing I can think of is maybe some subtle OSL, and Microsol/set are your friends for decals. I must have been a total retard in my teens because I just put on four decals after reading a brief tutorial online and it wasn't a problem at all. serious gaylord posted:Ash and ye shall receive Now, can you get me close enough to touch it?
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 02:53 |
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Jeez, that just makes me feel terrible for my poor Orks and the painting atrocity that is going to befall them soon. That paint job is just demoralizingly amazing. I just... drat.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 03:05 |
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If were just going to be drooling over large scale miniatures, historicals is where its at: http://www.coolminiornot.com/241171?browseid=8708207 http://www.coolminiornot.com/273422?browseid=8708207 http://www.coolminiornot.com/309660?browseid=8708207
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 03:10 |
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Finished up a squad of Devastators! The transfers were kind of a pain in the rear end, but I like how they came out for the most part. I also added some variation to kneepads and some extra honorifics to the models to differentiate them a little from other rank and file dudes. The freehand on the heavy weapons was wicked fun too: I also laid everything out to get a look at the whole army on the field together:
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 03:14 |
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Holy poo poo.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 03:29 |
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WhiteWolf123 posted:Holy poo poo. That guy is pretty amazing. http://www.coolminiornot.com/319256?browseid=8709193 The freehand on this pretty much makes me lose my poo poo everytime I see it: http://www.coolminiornot.com/313390?browseid=8709193
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 05:36 |
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Iguazzu, Piqui, Arsies, and the rest of the incredibly talented Cursed Monkey Corp Spanish painting collective are great. They recently did a smallish print run of a pretty great book full of pictures of their stuff and a bunch of step-by-step painting and sculpting things, and are apparently working on producing a second print run for people who missed out on the initial one. If you're into awesome models, interesting advice on creating them, and supporting some of the most talented people in the hobby, I highly recommend checking it out. They've also got a Youtube channel with some tutorials, and Iguazzu (Alex Varela) did a great set of videos on painting metals for miniature mentor if you feel like dropping $25 on a few hours of pretty excellent information on the topic.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 05:59 |
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El Estrago Bonito posted:The freehand on this pretty much makes me lose my poo poo everytime I see it: That's not a mini that's a CGI poster you can gently caress right off
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 08:12 |
How does this minefield look? I think I should put something in that open space opposite the tree stump but I'm not sure what. The stump and base are from the Battlefield in a Box large pine wood set and the mines are from Forgeworld(discontinued).
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 09:18 |
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ghetto wormhole posted:How does this minefield look? I think I should put something in that open space opposite the tree stump but I'm not sure what. It looks pretty, if a bit sparse.
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# ? Apr 3, 2014 09:22 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 08:53 |
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I think it would look a little better if you had less mines and maybe some debris or tiny craters to show where people tried to run across but didn't quite make it. Maybe also some green stuff to hide some mines or partially cover them? If you're looking for something to put opposite the stump, you could put a sign warning people of the mines. edit: If you don't like the grimdark idea then I'd add some rocks/grass/etc. It could use a little color Business Gorillas fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Apr 3, 2014 |
# ? Apr 3, 2014 09:31 |