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Mr. Apollo posted:My cordless tools are a bit long in the tooth so I'd like to buy some new ones. I'm not a professional, this is just for around the house type stuff. Ok and I don't mean to complain overmuch here but could we not talk about what kind of cordless tools to get here for the umpteenth time? That discussion has been gone over every other page for at least the last couple months. Just look back a couple pages and you'll see every aspect of the discussion from brands and battery types and voltages and brushless and tool-only-off-ebay Yeah please just go with either Makita or Milwaukee
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Apr 9, 2014 02:53
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I just pulled the trigger on a PCS Sawstop. On the one hand, that's a lot of furniture I could have just bought. On the other hand, holy poo poo I'm really excited about this.
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Apr 9, 2014 02:57
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Tim Thomas posted:I just pulled the trigger on a PCS Sawstop. On the one hand, that's a lot of furniture I could have just bought. On the other hand, holy poo poo I'm really excited about this. Cut a hotdog!
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Apr 9, 2014 03:15
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Tim Thomas posted:I just pulled the trigger on a PCS Sawstop. On the one hand, that's a lot of furniture I could have just bought. On the other hand, holy poo poo I'm really excited about this. I saw an in-person sawstop demo at Rockler once, the guy just used a piece of chicken from his lunch. Kind of made me want to get one.
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Apr 9, 2014 03:23
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Blistex posted:Cut a hotdog! So, do modern sawstops still require you to service them every time it trips? I heard (indirectly) that early models used a rather drastic method of stopping the blade.
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Apr 9, 2014 04:47
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MRC48B posted:So, do modern sawstops still require you to service them every time it trips? I heard (indirectly) that early models used a rather drastic method of stopping the blade. They still use a very high-tension spring that would drive the an aluminium braking pad into the saw blade, stopping it from spinning and causing it to retract into the table. It is about 50/50 stop/retract that saves your finger and yes, you need to get a new blade and braking pad every time it trips. You can replace the blade and the cartridge yourself instead of having to take them to a service centre, which I think was always the case. Found a good link on their site: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3IGPCkirdU&t=57s
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Apr 9, 2014 05:15
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We have a SawStop and it's paid for itself several times over by saving two kids' fingers already. It's really impressive...one second the saw is cutting away, then there's this loud BINNNGGGG and the blade is gone. Both people who were injured only needed band-aids for mistakes that would have otherwise resulted in losing one joint of a finger and losing the entire thumb, respectively. Blistex is right -- you can do all the replacement yourself. The cartridge is one-use-only and the blade becomes embedded in the brake block, so both are a write-off, but the whole thing pops out as a unit and you just install a new cartridge and replace the blade like you normally would. The current versions use a capacitor to explode a fuse-like wire that holds a spring in tension, and when the spring's released it pushes the brake into the blade. The remaining inertia in the blade is what pushes it into the table and locks it underneath. The original versions used an electrically-fired .45 blank cartridge to do the same 
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Apr 9, 2014 05:24
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What's the current cost? (I know, it will always be cheaper then the medical bill) Last I heard it was $350 + a new blade. EDIT* Wow it's dropped in price: http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ So who want's to help fund my new saw stop fund? Haha. I think I will be fine for years to come with the Unisaw I recently got.
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Apr 9, 2014 05:24
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I have a little compressor (Ridgid Mobile Air) and every time I am done with it I bleed off the air completely, and then open the bottom drain for storage. Is that the correct procedure, or should I be opening the bottom drain while there is still some pressure? I always assumed gravity would be enough.
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Apr 9, 2014 15:37
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Tim Thomas posted:I just pulled the trigger on a PCS Sawstop. On the one hand, that's a lot of furniture I could have just bought. On the other hand, holy poo poo I'm really excited about this. The great thing is that you're so excited to have a feature you hope you will never use. 
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Apr 9, 2014 15:56
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Slugworth posted:I have a little compressor (Ridgid Mobile Air) and every time I am done with it I bleed off the air completely, and then open the bottom drain for storage. Is that the correct procedure, or should I be opening the bottom drain while there is still some pressure? I always assumed gravity would be enough. I would leave 10-20psi in it and then use the bottom drain.
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Apr 9, 2014 19:05
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Bad Munki posted:The great thing is that you're so excited to have a feature you hope you will never use. By all accounts, SawStops are actually pretty drat good saws as well as being incredibly cool for their safety features. I'd be excited to have one even without the knowledge that I'm less likely to lose a finger.
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Apr 9, 2014 19:21
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Ive heard the saw stops can be inadvertently triggered by wet wood or metal. True?
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Apr 10, 2014 00:00
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They say yes, if the wood is not wet enough to create a "mist" while cutting. You can also run the saw in bypass mode if you are concerned. *Edit- I have since read quite a bit with a majority of the issues involving PT and really wet soft woods (Ceder). The odd case being fresh cut Bamboo, which while dry externally, was still wet inside. http://www.sawstop.com/support/faqs It's a PITA that you have to purchase a separate DADO cartridge and change it any time you want to use a DADO blade. Honestly, I'll just stick with my Unisaw and following best practices. the spyder fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 00:19
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the spyder posted:
Can you just use the Dado cartridge all the time? It looks to just be wider than the normal cartridge.
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Apr 10, 2014 00:55
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I believe they are designed for 8" diameter blades, so no, not what from what I can find one. Apparently it's a easy swap. I missed a good deal on a lightly used Sawstop and part of me regrets not going for it. ($2200, 1yr old) *Edit: I cringe thinking about having to buy a $89 cartridge and replacing my $200 DADO stack though. I have found several reports of misfires, but they seem to be back in 2009/2010. Hopefully the software is better now.
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Apr 10, 2014 01:29
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Seems simpler to just keep your fingers away from the blade.
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Apr 10, 2014 19:41
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wormil posted:Seems simpler to just keep your fingers away from the blade. -- man missing finger
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Apr 10, 2014 19:58
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Sagebrush posted:-- man missing finger Well if the finger's not on the hand it's pretty easy to keep it far away from the blade. I mean heck, put it in a safe deposit box if you want.
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Apr 10, 2014 19:59
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I don't use dado blades as I'm concerned about kickback and I made a nice router table, so that's not a concern. I keep my fingers away from the blade as-is but for the sake of some extra money, I get some peace of mind for the case where I make a mistake.
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Apr 10, 2014 20:00
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Tim Thomas posted:I don't use dado blades as I'm concerned about kickback and I made a nice router table, so that's not a concern. I keep my fingers away from the blade as-is but for the sake of some extra money, I get some peace of mind for the case where I make a mistake. Just FYI the majority of kickbacks happen when ripping. Congrats on the saw purchase. I plan on buying one myself when I get the funds.
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Apr 10, 2014 20:50
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Not an Anthem posted:Work is buying hearing protection and wanted to know if we had any favorites. Are the electronic noise dampening ones any good for shop work out just shooting sports? I kinda wanna go nuts and get electronic cutoff ones with Bluetooth to listen to music with too. I was keen to use my Howard Leight electronic shooting earmuffs to be able to listen to podcasts while doing household chores, but I found they suffered three issues: -The speakers inside the earmuffs did not amplify the music/podcast audio enough -The sound reduction given by them is not as much compared to a cheap pair of normal (larger, thicker) earmuffs -Most importantly, the algorithm used to decide which frequencies or noises picked up by the microphone to send through to the speakers is not good enough at detecting and cutting out white noise like motors and vacuums, so it's actually making it even louder to your ears. I gave up and just use my normal earbuds underneath a set of passive earmuffs. I run the cable through my shirt which works well enough except in really hot weather obviously.
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Apr 11, 2014 05:12
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dwoloz posted:Ive heard the saw stops can be inadvertently triggered by wet wood or metal. True? I've seen a video of a guy literally cutting through a nail with one, so no, that part at least isn't (caveat: unless you're actually touching the metal at the time). And yeah, you can turn off the safety module if you're worried.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:42
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The detection circuit is essentially just a GFCI. If the machine detects that the amount of current flowing out of the blade is less than the amount flowing in, it must be going somewhere else (ie into you) so it triggers the brake. Anything with a high enough capacitance to temporarily disrupt the flow of current will do the same thing. I've seen it happen with wet wood and with the metallic film on a sheet of mirrored acrylic. I would think that a nail would be large enough to trigger the GFCI, though, so it's possible that he was running the saw in bypass mode (which is something you can do temporarily if you have to cut something like damp wood or mirrored acrylic).
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Apr 11, 2014 19:21
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~Coxy posted:-Most importantly, the algorithm used to decide which frequencies or noises picked up by the microphone to send through to the speakers is not good enough at detecting and cutting out white noise like motors and vacuums, so it's actually making it even louder to your ears. I have the exact problem with my Leights. They're still comfortable and better than no ear protection but I can't use the electronic bits in the shop as it just amplifies motors, dust collectors, etc. Come to think of it I haven't even used them on the range yet.
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Apr 11, 2014 20:05
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Jonny Quest posted:I have the exact problem with my Leights. They're still comfortable and better than no ear protection but I can't use the electronic bits in the shop as it just amplifies motors, dust collectors, etc. Come to think of it I haven't even used them on the range yet. I've had that problem with mine as well as other ones from cheap to expensive. Twin cylinder commercial mower? No problem. Angle grinder? Amplifies it until I start grinding. The only time I turn on my actives is when they're plugged into my iphone or if I'm on the range with a bunch of people.
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Apr 11, 2014 20:49
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Sagebrush posted:The detection circuit is essentially just a GFCI. If the machine detects that the amount of current flowing out of the blade is less than the amount flowing in, it must be going somewhere else (ie into you) so it triggers the brake. Anything with a high enough capacitance to temporarily disrupt the flow of current will do the same thing. I've seen it happen with wet wood and with the metallic film on a sheet of mirrored acrylic. I would think that a nail would be large enough to trigger the GFCI, though, so it's possible that he was running the saw in bypass mode (which is something you can do temporarily if you have to cut something like damp wood or mirrored acrylic). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnlTGndRi38 Judge for yourself. It looks like an honest review to me. E: the key point as I understand it is not hitting something conductive on its own, it's hitting something conductive *that conducts into the person or earth* - cut that mirrored acrylic or wet wood whilst holding it with something insulated, it shouldn't trigger.
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Apr 11, 2014 21:01
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Sagebrush posted:The detection circuit is essentially just a GFCI. If the machine detects that the amount of current flowing out of the blade is less than the amount flowing in, it must be going somewhere else (ie into you) so it triggers the brake. Anything with a high enough capacitance to temporarily disrupt the flow of current will do the same thing. I've seen it happen with wet wood and with the metallic film on a sheet of mirrored acrylic. I would think that a nail would be large enough to trigger the GFCI, though, so it's possible that he was running the saw in bypass mode (which is something you can do temporarily if you have to cut something like damp wood or mirrored acrylic). That doesn't quite check out. GFCI is intended to detect actual current flow (electrical shock). But you can be touching something with voltage without necessarily creating resistive current path (shoes should generally be a good insulator). So I would think it's more akin to the capacitive touchscreen of your phone than a GFCI.
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Apr 11, 2014 21:27
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asdf32 posted:But you can be touching something with voltage without necessarily creating resistive current path (shoes should generally be a good insulator). See the high school science class demo of the whole class holding hands, person at one end puts their hand on the Van de Graaff ball, everybody's hair stands up, and then the teacher tells the person at the other end to grab a faucet. I was the only one that knew what was going to happen, and I was in the middle. I said "Don't do it, you'll ground uUURGH". Nowadays I wear lineman boots, rated to 14kV, because they're comfy and don't track mud in like the logger boots. Kinda want to go lick a mains power line just because I can. The electrical boots make up for their lack of tread by having super-sticky rubber; they're like race tires or rock-climbing shoes, as opposed to the logger boots with spiky hard-rubber soles. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 12:56 on Apr 12, 2014 |
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Apr 12, 2014 12:51
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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asdf32 posted:That doesn't quite check out. GFCI is intended to detect actual current flow (electrical shock). But you can be touching something with voltage without necessarily creating resistive current path (shoes should generally be a good insulator). So I would think it's more akin to the capacitive touchscreen of your phone than a GFCI. Agreed. It sounds more like a capacitive touch sensor or oscillator/resonance based touch sensor than a GFCI/current leakage system. Anyone got a used-up cartridge they don't care about? I will give reverse engineering it a shot and find out which it is.
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Apr 12, 2014 15:39
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Is this a good a deal as it seems? M18 RED Lithium Drill/Driver and Hackzall, two batteries, and a carrying case: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...#specifications I'm sorely tempted
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Apr 13, 2014 02:02
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Any recommendation on chainsaw and/or a firewood splitter? Just looking for something to ease in the creation of seasonal firewood for a firepit---not to heat my house or anything. Cheaper the better, but I'm not exactly looking for a harbor freight chainsaw, either, though used and at a pawn store is not beneath me. Stihl the go to here? Husqy (not real pleased with a mower I've got by them)?
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Apr 13, 2014 03:31
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I have an 18" poulon I got from Home Depot a decade ago and I DID use it to heat my home, back in AK at 40 below, worked (and still works) great. I logged up a lot of trees with that thing, never had trouble. As for splitting, grab a splitting axe:  Also available at Home Depot/Lowe's. No muss, no fuss, cheap, and when you're done splitting wood, you don't even need to build a fire because you're plenty warm! As long as your wood isn't knotted to hell, an axe like that will do great with it. And if it is knotted to hell, you can usually power through with a couple extra swings as long as you keep it sharp. Worst-case scenario (or for very large-diameter logs) get a splitting wedge or two, flip the axe around, and show that log who's boss. I believe this is the splitting axe I have: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ludell-4-lbs-Log-Splitter-and-34-in-Wedge-Combo-Value-12304-K/204199678 (except mine didn't come with a wedge) And I think this is the chainsaw I have, or close enough: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Poulan-PRO-18-in-42-cc-Gas-Chainsaw-967185105/204665809?N=5yc1vZbxa8Z37e Total cost: $200 (don't forget a file to sharpen your chains), less if you have one of those 10-20% off coupons they always send out. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 13, 2014 03:39
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kastein posted:Agreed. It sounds more like a capacitive touch sensor or oscillator/resonance based touch sensor than a GFCI/current leakage system. No need. SawStop's promotional literature specifically says it's a capacitive system coupled with a signal processor to detect a charge pattern consistent with flesh contact.
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Apr 13, 2014 04:41
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ibpooks posted:a charge pattern consistent with flesh contact. Said charge pattern was contributed by countless interns.
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Apr 13, 2014 04:42
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Super Waffle posted:Is this a good a deal as it seems? M18 RED Lithium Drill/Driver and Hackzall, two batteries, and a carrying case: You will not regret getting the hackzall.
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Apr 13, 2014 05:35
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ibpooks posted:No need. SawStop's promotional literature specifically says it's a capacitive system coupled with a signal processor to detect a charge pattern consistent with flesh contact. Excellent, no reverse engineering required, I shall continue alternately working on projects and sitting on my rear end posting on the internet then. 
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Apr 13, 2014 11:30
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ibpooks posted:No need. SawStop's promotional literature specifically says it's a capacitive system coupled with a signal processor to detect a charge pattern consistent with flesh contact. What if I need to reverse the mode of operation.
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Apr 13, 2014 12:25
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Holy smokes this thing is awesome. It's not appreciably better as a saw than the mid '00s Unisaw my uncle has, but I'll be damned if I don't like the little things about it. The toolless quick change guard/riving knife/throat insert is the poo poo and might be a more important piece of equipment than the brake.
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Apr 13, 2014 13:12
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That's the one thing I wish my unisaw had, a riving knife. Glad you like it- I'm going to keep my eye out for another deal on a 3hp one.
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Apr 13, 2014 18:01
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