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Krakkles posted:Is there a reason you want the 3 ton version? The one in the OP was this, which is I have a '93 Explorer XLT, gross weight of 5040 lbs, and the frame is about ten inches off the ground. I would think that half of the weight would be too close to the 1.5 ton limit of the lower end jacks, and the 14-5/8 in. max height is too small of a lift. Am I doing this wrong? Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 05:41
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Wasabi the J posted:I have a '93 Explorer XLT, gross weight of 5040 lbs, and the frame is about ten inches off the ground. I would think that half of the weight would be too close to the 1.5 ton limit of the lower end jacks, and the 14-5/8 in. max height is too small of a lift. Am I doing this wrong? No, you've got a pretty good reason to not use the compact aluminum jack. For my money, I'm drat happy with the Costco 2.5Ton steel/aluminum hybrid. I have an older 1.5T HF Aluminum and while it's great as a second jack, it makes worrying springy noises if I use it to lift something heavier than a Mazda3 by itself. The Arcan jack lifts my truck and my CR-V without the slightest complaint. It doesn't have the rapid pump feature but honestly I don't miss it that much.
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Apr 10, 2014 06:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:No, you've got a pretty good reason to not use the compact aluminum jack. I have the 3-ton all steel version of this, and besides being a huge pain to lift (e.g. into a truck bed) it's suited me great. Pretty sure it's similar to this HF one, if your Costco doesn't have them?
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Apr 10, 2014 07:50
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This isn't a tools question exactly but I'm not sure where else to ask. Do any UK goons know where a regular punter can get hold of decent nuts & bolts, e.g. grade 10.9/12.9 cap heads etc? Preferably at a retail counter if possible. I used to get them from work but since moving to aerospace everything's heat resistant in nonsense inch sizes and it's a pain putting up with my local garage's inane parts counter.
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Apr 10, 2014 09:28
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Do you have a branch of Brammer near you? I use them for hardware at work and i think their prices are fair, but i don't know what kind of discount I'm getting off list price.
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Apr 10, 2014 09:42
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Should have mentioned I'm in Coventry, so yes. There's a Fastenal nearby too, I'll give both a ring tonight and see if they have a retail counter.
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Apr 10, 2014 10:17
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All Screwed Up in Leicester can get most things, and will sell you anything down to single washers if you so wish. And yeah, aerospace fasteners aren't much use for fitting modern cars!
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Apr 10, 2014 14:22
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Raluek posted:I have the 3-ton all steel version of this, and besides being a huge pain to lift (e.g. into a truck bed) it's suited me great. Pretty sure it's similar to this HF one, if your Costco doesn't have them? That's the one I wanted to get but by the time I finally called my old jack dead, Costco stopped carrying it and replaced it with the hybrid.
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Apr 10, 2014 14:27
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I've got the 2 ton steel Pittsburgh jack from Harbor Freight. Its lifted everything I've needed to, from lowered coupes to the Ford F250 diesel I worked on yesterday. Its heavy as hell, but it just lives in the garage, and I normally only have to take it somewhere a couple times a year. Edit: or maybe its the 3 ton posted above mine. I'd have to check. Its one of the two lo-profile Pittsburgh steel ones. PitViper fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 14:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:That's the one I wanted to get but by the time I finally called my old jack dead, Costco stopped carrying it and replaced it with the hybrid. My local Costco stopped carrying them too, but I found one 100 miles away when I was down there for unrelated reasons and stopped for gas and a polish dog.
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Apr 10, 2014 23:25
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Krakkles posted:Is there a reason you want the 3 ton version? 5" of lift height makes a BIG difference. I have the 1.5 ton, but I often find that it's just a little bit too low at full extension to get a car on jackstands easily.
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Apr 11, 2014 01:03
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EVERYWHERE 
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Wasabi the J posted:I have a '93 Explorer XLT, gross weight of 5040 lbs, and the frame is about ten inches off the ground. I would think that half of the weight would be too close to the 1.5 ton limit of the lower end jacks, and the 14-5/8 in. max height is too small of a lift. Am I doing this wrong? I use the 1.5 ton jacks for my Explorer. I've never had a reason to lift the frame and just jack the axles. As long as the wheels are off the ground even slightly, there is plenty of room under the frame to do almost anything.
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Apr 11, 2014 04:31
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Wasabi the J posted:I have a '93 Explorer XLT, gross weight of 5040 lbs, and the frame is about ten inches off the ground. I would think that half of the weight would be too close to the 1.5 ton limit of the lower end jacks, and the 14-5/8 in. max height is too small of a lift. Am I doing this wrong? Lift the back by the Diff. Should save a few inches. Then jack stand the frame.
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Apr 11, 2014 05:18
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:I use the 1.5 ton jacks for my Explorer. I've never had a reason to lift the frame and just jack the axles. As long as the wheels are off the ground even slightly, there is plenty of room under the frame to do almost anything. Preoptopus posted:Lift the back by the Diff. Should save a few inches. Then jack stand the frame. There's nothing about the weight I should be worried about? I don't mean to be a wuss, but "pinned by truck" doesn't sound fun.
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Apr 11, 2014 05:25
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Simply put, your vehicle weighs less than you think it does. Also, if you're real set on it, the 3-ton is on sale for $179. It's not a bad thing to use a bigger jack than you need, but you don't need a 3 ton jack to lift an explorer.
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Apr 11, 2014 05:27
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Krakkles posted:Simply put, your vehicle weighs less than you think it does. Or the big heavy steel one I linked above for $90.
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Apr 11, 2014 05:29
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Krakkles posted:Simply put, your vehicle weighs less than you think it does. Ohhhhh... gently caress thank you. Didn't realize that I wasn't looking at the right weight.  3923 Pounds (lb) = 1.77944 Tonne (ton) There's a HF in my town, so I can just go there tomorrow and pick one up. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Apr 11, 2014 |
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Apr 11, 2014 05:30
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Don't people put 4"x4" lumber on their jack pads anymore? (or the equivalent metric measurement)
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Apr 11, 2014 05:40
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wallaka posted:Don't people put 4"x4" lumber on their jack pads anymore? (or the equivalent metric measurement) 
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Apr 11, 2014 05:45
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wallaka posted:Don't people put 4"x4" lumber on their jack pads anymore? (or the equivalent metric measurement)  After straining my wrists a couple weeks back trying to get out a very, very tightened down oil filter I got one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-3-jaw-adjustable-oil-filter-wrench-69021.html Used it last night with a little stubby wrench handle I also picked up at HF and it got an oil filter loose immediately with no fuss. ed: $1.50 hockey puck + 2 seconds of cutting = $17 jack pad. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-Vulca...e_Tools&vxp=mtr Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 13:09 on Apr 11, 2014 |
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Apr 11, 2014 12:32
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Wasabi the J posted:There's nothing about the weight I should be worried about? I don't mean to be a wuss, but "pinned by truck" doesn't sound fun. I've never had the slightest problem lifting my Explorer or my Wagoneer. I also only put enough of me under the truck to slide jackstands below an axle, just in case. Some printable coupons for your trip to the store. Aluminum 3 ton jack for $180 Steel 3 ton jack for $70 Aluminum 1.5 ton jack for $70 Steel 6 ton jackstands for $30 Steel 3 ton jackstands for $20 Aluminum 3 ton jackstands for $30
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Apr 12, 2014 04:25
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Some racecars/4x4s have a bit of chain in the wheel well that is just long enough to hook to a lug on the axle when sitting; stow it for suspension travel, clip it to the axle to get the tire off the ground quicker when jacking the frame. Or just put the jack under the pumpkin or A-arm. On my roommate's Civic, using the designated jack points on the frame isn't that bad. On my cop car or my late Wagoneer, on the other hand, the low-profile jack that fits under the Honda barely unloads the springs at max height on the frame.
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Apr 12, 2014 13:27
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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How do people feel about integrated bottle-jack jackstands? They look really good for all the cars where the jack points are also the only good place to put a stand ( ), and take up less storage than a trolley.
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Apr 14, 2014 17:18
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I've never used one. I've also n ever had a bottle jack small enough to get under my car.
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Apr 14, 2014 18:11
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Time to get my Honda walk-behind ready for the year. Hey, carburetors for these are only $18 each! I'll get one just for PM! ... ... except I have an oddball with some auto-choke variant that is $52 instead. I just hope with the new carb it runs better than last year.
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Apr 14, 2014 23:19
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I have a dumb tool question. My uncle and I put an air compressor setup in my Jeep, and I want to get an airline and blower nozzle to keep in it. I'm thinking about 20-25' and would like to find a good brand recommendation, for both the hose and blower. (One thought on blower nozzles - compact is probably better. I've seen different styles that range from little tiny nozzle with a button on the side to gun, and because it will be staying in the jeep, the former would be better.) Here's the problem/dumb question: I know from previous experience (basically, his friends giving him crap) that there are different types of fittings / chuck sizes/styles that these things have. How can I tell which one is which, and what are they called so I can find the correct one? If it helps at all, his friend who gives him the most crap about this uses Harbor Freight air gear nearly exclusively, and all of his fittings are difficult to use, leak, and seem lovely. The fittings my uncles uses (and what we put in the Jeep) are much more solid feeling, engage better, and seem higher quality. The fitting that I need to hook into is (to my eye, at least) an extremely typical fitting (chuck) you'd find on an air compressor or at the end of the air line connected to such.
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Apr 15, 2014 01:49
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Use a high quality universal Dixon or Lincoln 5862 style quick disconnect. copy/paste code:
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Apr 15, 2014 02:59
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I'm pretty sure that Dixon coupler is the one on the truck. It looks exactly like it, anyway. So ... good hose to plug into that?
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Apr 15, 2014 03:18
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Most of the commercial fittings I've worked with are Milton brand.
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Apr 15, 2014 03:25
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Krakkles posted:I'm pretty sure that Dixon coupler is the one on the truck. It looks exactly like it, anyway. quote:So ... good hose to plug into that? Buy a brand name really. Kuriyama makes really good industrial hoses for a good price and you can get air hose in 25' and 50' lengths. You'll find most quality industrial hoses won't come with couplers on them, just an MNPT thread so you can adapt whatever you want to it to fit your system. They make some excellent cold weather hoses if that floats your boat. If you mean the ends it shouldn't make much of a difference since the universal couplings will take the majority of male ends as long as it isn't some sort of chinese unicorn. Any really good industrial supply store that deals with hydraulic hoses and fittings usually have a few good high quality air hoses as well. If you want a specific name of store, try Motion Industries. They might do wholesale only but generally have shops in semi-decent sized towns/cities so they'd be a good bet. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 04:59
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slidebite posted:A disconnect looks like a disconnect to most people. If it's a Dixon it will say so and should have a model number on it too. If it isn't, who knows.
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Apr 15, 2014 14:28
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Does anybody have or have used a Bluetooth OBD2 reader and software for Android? If so, 2 questions. 1: How well does it work? 2: can you also read airbag fault codes or is that even an option with the BT modules?
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Apr 15, 2014 16:39
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I've heard great things about Torque as an application. Haven't personally used it, but I have used some crap Windows software so anything with a half decent interface like Torque should be a huge improvement. As far as reading airbag fault codes, I wouldn't hold your breath about getting that data from OBD2. Most cars use a CAN bus for their accessories and communication these days. OBD2 is really only used for emission equipment where it's mandated. Even if you have access to the CAN bus, none of the auto manufacturers release information on their protocols unless you pay tens of thousands of dollars to license it.  Best bet is probably to find a cheap independent mechanic who has the diagnostic computer specific to your car make/model.
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Apr 15, 2014 18:25
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mod sassinator posted:I've heard great things about Torque as an application. Haven't personally used it, but I have used some crap Windows software so anything with a half decent interface like Torque should be a huge improvement. The OBD2 port actually carries multiple bus lines including the CAN bus on vehicles that support it. There is a specification KWP2000 that while vehicle manufacturers do not follow the spec 100%, basic functionality like reading codes over CAN should work.
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Apr 15, 2014 19:01
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peepsalot posted:The OBD2 port actually carries multiple bus lines including the CAN bus on vehicles that support it. There is a specification KWP2000 that while vehicle manufacturers do not follow the spec 100%, basic functionality like reading codes over CAN should work. OBD2 is a festering sore on the already disgusting rear end end of automotive electronics. It's literally a standard that contains all the older, mutually incompatible manufacturer standards. Basically they were going to make a nice standard, and then all the manufacturers bitched, so they threw up their hands and said "alright all of you document how you do things, sorta, and we'll jam your buses into this one connector, and the scan tool manufacturers have to support ALL of your stupid 80s pulsewidth based protocols to claim they support OBD2. Have it your way." And then they all made their buses slightly incompatible (either electrically or on a higher level) over the years so hey, your scan tool may or may not work. gently caress I hate that disaster. Oh, and the CAN implementation is poo poo layered on top of poo poo as well, it's complex almost on the level of government regulations. At least the physical layer of the CAN bus is well documented and standardized however, and Just Works (once you configure your baud rate, synch jump width, phase segment 1 and 2 quanta, propagation time segment quanta, ...) rather than literally being pulsewidth based, incredibly slow serial comms straight out of the Bad Old Days of strange early 80s fuel injection systems. Source: I have spent over $1500 on purchasing SAE, ISO, and ANSI standards documents alone just to learn how it works so I can implement it at work. If you choose to do this, make sure you have ibuprofen on your amazon prime subscription, you're gonna need it.
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Apr 15, 2014 19:11
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peepsalot posted:The OBD2 port actually carries multiple bus lines including the CAN bus on vehicles that support it. There is a specification KWP2000 that while vehicle manufacturers do not follow the spec 100%, basic functionality like reading codes over CAN should work. I still wouldn't get my hopes up. For example on my 2005 GM car, there's an OBD2 bus and two CAN buses. One CAN bus is on the OBD2 connector but doesn't have anything useful on it. The second CAN bus is where all the fun stuff is (windows, locks, HVAC, etc.) but is on a special connector and isn't documented at all.
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Apr 15, 2014 19:13
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kastein posted:ssssssstandards With the limited number of units your company is working with, couldn't they just throw it all out the window and expose a REST endpoint or something?
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Apr 15, 2014 19:14
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Not really, at least if we want to fully comply with federal regulations.mod sassinator posted:I still wouldn't get my hopes up. For example on my 2005 GM car, there's an OBD2 bus and two CAN buses. One CAN bus is on the OBD2 connector but doesn't have anything useful on it. The second CAN bus is where all the fun stuff is (windows, locks, HVAC, etc.) but is on a special connector and isn't documented at all. The only thing you need to know is which wire is CAN+ and which is CAN-. They'll be a twisted pair, you can look up the wiring diagrams somewhere and find out the color codes for + and -. Then just hook them to whatever CAN transceiver you're using. If you have CANRX and CANTX lines from your device you are trying to attach to the car's network, you need a CAN bus transceiver that will convert them to CANHIGH/CAN+ and CANLOW/CAN- to make it work. A chip like the MCP2551 will do this pretty easily.
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Apr 15, 2014 19:51
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A follow-up to a previous discussion we had about buying a drill driver. I've decided on buying a Milwaukee Magnum, but Home Depot has several models available and I don't know which one I should be choosing. I want a sturdy , general purpose drill for doing woodwork, some automotive work, and basic renos. How much RPM should I be considering? And what's the difference between a 1/2 in. and 3/8 in. drill?
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Apr 16, 2014 06:18
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Get the 1/2 in chuck and don't worry about RPM. 850-950 is plenty for a hand drill. I'm not really sure what the difference between the two $150 ones are but get one of those. e: Amazon.ca has them cheaper: 0300-20 0299-20 I've got the 0234-6 which I like a little better (cord and side handle design) but don't think it's worth $50 more. It was a lot cheaper on this side of the border. Galler fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 06:30
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