|
JackRabbitStorm posted:I have an 03 Explorer with a pioneer double din and bluetooth. I wonder why Crutchfield says only single will fit. Did you buy any special adapters, or just the basic one that came with it? Can you link me to the specific Pioneer that you bought?
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2014 17:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 01:05 |
|
|
Heres the headunit https://amzn.to/1dJS6CG Installation kit https://amzn.to/PlAcxN I did lose functionality of steering wheel controls (that can be fixed with an adapter) and the rear DVD player no longer works (I haven't cared enough to see why)
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2014 00:50
|
|
|
The Alpine CD changer finally died in my '99 Alfa 156, it's the OEM one so I suppose it did a reasonable job. They still sell the same unit new at a reasonable enough price, so I've opted for the simple option. Presuming it's just a case of disconnect the old one then connect the new one, I guess I'll find out soon when it starts needing weird codes, the ECU resetting or something absolutely ridiculous.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2014 01:07
|
|
|
JackRabbitStorm posted:Heres the headunit https://amzn.to/1dJS6CG Steering wheel controls and rear DVD? I just realized that I failed to specify that I have an '03 Explorer Sport. It's XLT and has cruise control, but there aren't any audio controls on the steering wheel, and I'm pretty sure there wasn't a rear DVD option. When I put in the non-Sport Explorer in Crutchfield's search options, I'm seeing all of the double-din options, so I'm guessing it's possible that the Sport's head unit slot might indeed not be big enough for a double DIN.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2014 13:48
|
|
|
Fryhtaning posted:Steering wheel controls and rear DVD? Ah yeah well I have no idea then. Check for cheap Chinese poo poo on eBay, you might get lucky.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2014 15:46
|
|
|
Looking to get a double din head unit for 2008 Tundra. Currently looking at the Pioneer SPH-DA210. Features look great...I like the ability to use my Android phone maps on the screen. Anyone actually used one? Real world impressions?
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2014 07:17
|
|
|
How accurate is Crutchfield's fit guide for speakers? I have an 05 Cavalier (yeah I know) and pretty much nothing but cheap Sony/Kenwood speakers in the 50-75 dollar range and large component speaker set ups in the 500 dollar range show up. Also, I have said cheap Sony speakers in my car currently, but they sound like absolute poo poo, as bad as the factory speakers. Could this be because I'm still using the stock head unit? Even if they are cheap, I would expect at least a little improvement over stock.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2014 11:24
|
|
|
Tahm Bwady posted:How accurate is Crutchfield's fit guide for speakers? I have an 05 Cavalier (yeah I know) and pretty much nothing but cheap Sony/Kenwood speakers in the 50-75 dollar range and large component speaker set ups in the 500 dollar range show up. Also, I have said cheap Sony speakers in my car currently, but they sound like absolute poo poo, as bad as the factory speakers. Could this be because I'm still using the stock head unit? Even if they are cheap, I would expect at least a little improvement over stock. Stock units vary in quality a lot- I swapped out the stock stereo on my mazda 626 for a reasonably priced alpine unit and was amazed by how much more I could hear (even from 11 year old stock speakers), but swapping out the stock one in my A4 (for the same alpine unit) sounded about identical quality wise, I just gained AUX and USB in and some more speaker outputs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2014 11:48
|
|
|
I don't know anything about car audio, at all. The stock subwoofer in my '00 5-series sucks. I got a Bazooka BTA6100 for free and installed it today, but it didn't help as much as I thought it would so I ended up going to Best Buy and getting a Kicker 300-watt amplifier, Kenwood 12" subwoofer and a Metra enclosure. Wiring... I tapped into the low level lines going to the stock subwoofer in the rear. Then power straight from the battery (in the rear) and the 'REM' line I connected to some unknown wire that turns on and off with the ignition. I didn't disconnect or remove the stock subwoofer because it's kind of embedded in the car and I wouldn't gain any usable space from removing it so it seemed pointless to do so? Anyway it's working fine and sounds great. But did I make any stupid decisions?
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2014 05:55
|
|
|
Tahm Bwady posted:How accurate is Crutchfield's fit guide for speakers? I have an 05 Cavalier (yeah I know) and pretty much nothing but cheap Sony/Kenwood speakers in the 50-75 dollar range and large component speaker set ups in the 500 dollar range show up. Also, I have said cheap Sony speakers in my car currently, but they sound like absolute poo poo, as bad as the factory speakers. Could this be because I'm still using the stock head unit? Even if they are cheap, I would expect at least a little improvement over stock. It's more because GM was loving stupid and put 4x6 speakers up front. It's not a very common size to begin with; it's even more uncommon to find that in the front. You can probably track down some 4x6 to circular adapters somewhere. Any good car audio shop can fab something up as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2014 07:41
|
|
|
This weekend I bought a '01 Honda Civic cheap on Craigslist that had a decent headunit as well as an amp in the trunk. The guy selling it told me that they were not included, but that he would reinstall the OEM radio for me. When I picked it up after the title exchange the factory radio was back in the dash like he promised, although looking a bit worse for wear around the edges (looks like someone went after it with a screwdriver at some point). It lit up along with the rest of the dash, so I didn't check it too closely or use it on the ride home. The radio has been the last thing on my mind, as I've been way more concerned with the mechanical bits, but today I tried listening to it and no sound came out. I take a look in the trunk and lo and behold the guy just yanked out his headunit and amp, leaving the speakers still connected to a spaghetti of wires that terminate somewhere around my spare tire. At the very least it looks like the wiring job was done competently enough to be safe, even if it is a little sloppy. My initial plan before I discovered this mess was to do nothing other then drop in a cheap but decent headunit (like this one). Now I don't know if it would be easier to just get a cheap amp along with the headunit and wire it in the way it was before, or to pop open the door panels and reconnect the original speaker wiring, then coil and tuck away the new stuff that's been ran through. I'm not even sure what kind of amp I would be looking for either; are there some sample amp wiring charts that I can compare to the mess in my trunk and reason out what it was originally wired for? How easy would it be to rewire the speakers instead?
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2014 02:14
|
|
|
I drive a 2001 Subaru Outback Wagon base with 4 speakers. I am looking to just install new speakers without replacing the stock headunit. Seems like I need to get slim speakers to fit the doors correctly. Does anyone have any recommendations on which pair of speakers I should purchase for the front and rear doors? Also, seems like I have a pair of tweeters on the front doors that I should probably replace as well. I am looking to purchase a pair of speakers that do not require any modification and can install pretty easily once I take apart the door.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2014 02:41
|
|
|
[edit: working asking this in a better way]
Stormtrooper fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Apr 6, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2014 21:34
|
|
|
My fiancee has a 2002 Honda CRV with a sound system that sounds like trash. I'm not looking for miracles, my 2000 Ford Focus sounds great to me with its stock sound system. I'm not looking at some fancy system with amps and subwoofers or anything. Right now, the Honda CRV has about a $100 Sony head unit. I don't think it's the main problem as the system sounded just as bad with the old stock headunit that died. So can I get away with just replacing the speakers? And if crutchfield says all 5.25" and 6.5" speakers fit, should I automatically go for a larger size? I'm willing to spend up to $250 on speakers, but I don't want to find out that the head unit and car wiring can't put enough juice to good speakers, is that something to be concerned about? Any speaker or price point recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2014 00:45
|
|
|
Costello Jello posted:My fiancee has a 2002 Honda CRV with a sound system that sounds like trash. I'm not looking for miracles, my 2000 Ford Focus sounds great to me with its stock sound system. I'm not looking at some fancy system with amps and subwoofers or anything. Right now, the Honda CRV has about a $100 Sony head unit. I don't think it's the main problem as the system sounded just as bad with the old stock headunit that died. So can I get away with just replacing the speakers? And if crutchfield says all 5.25" and 6.5" speakers fit, should I automatically go for a larger size? Larger size generally gets a better sound when all other factors are equal; so if you're looking at two well-reviewed speakers from the same product line, you're gonna want to go for the larger ones.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2014 01:06
|
|
|
As luck would have it, my cassette->headphone adapter is dying right after I got spoiled by a rental (Prius) finally coming with bluetooth. It was awesome to have music from my phone seamlessly play and stop when the car was turned on and off! The pause/play button on the touchscreen and it taking phone calls were nice perks, but I don't care too much about that. Is there a reasonable way for me to get automatic bluetooth playback like that in my car? When googling around, all of the adapter kind of things either seemed to be a cheap piece of poo poo, had to be manually re-paired every time, or were $80+ which seems to creep towards 'may as well replace the whole drat unit' / is it going to look dumb / I'd wanna be drat sure it does what I want before dropping almost a hundo just to be a little lazy. I'm in a 2002 Maxima with the Bose in-dash 6CD changer, and I'm under the impression that knocks a handful of good options out. My tape adapter still mostly works, the cord is just breaking off at the headphone plug end. What seems to be a decent route is a BT receiver powered by USB that I could plug/solder wires to the tape adapter and hide away somewhere, but everything I'm coming across seems to be battery powered (so I have to manually turn it on and off), or has to be manually paired all the time, etc. I'd entertain the idea of a new HU if I wouldn't have to drop like $300+ for something that would work with the janky Bose poo poo and not look like all my previous cars which were ye ole' Honda with an aftermarket head shoved in the dash.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2014 20:12
|
|
|
Zohn posted:This weekend I bought a '01 Honda Civic cheap on Craigslist that had a decent headunit as well as an amp in the trunk. The guy selling it told me that they were not included, but that he would reinstall the OEM radio for me. If you want to install a new amp, find out what speakers are in the car. Look those up, find out the RMS wattage, and buy an amp that matches the RMS rating. What's going to be easier is going to depend on what the state of the factory wiring is, what happened to the aftermarket wiring, etc. You're not going to know until you crack things open, which you're going to want to do to find out what's in there anyway. I'd say at least take a look at things then decide what you'd rather do.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2014 09:29
|
|
|
Hey guys, looking for a double din receiver recommendation. I'll be installing into a 2004 Lincoln LS, and I'd like to keep steering wheel controls if possible. I'm looking for something that works well with the iphone 5, and only have 1 cable for audio and video, if that exists yet. I'm also looking to be able to use the phones GPS with google or apple maps, and not have to pay a subscription to Garmin, or pay $1,000 for a deck with built in GPS. I'm having trouble finding something that would allow me to do that. Thanks in advance for any advice. My budget is probably in the $350-500 range.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2014 20:26
|
|
|
Dustoph posted:Hey guys, looking for a double din receiver recommendation. I'll be installing into a 2004 Lincoln LS, and I'd like to keep steering wheel controls if possible. The cost for the "$1,000" unit isn't the cost of the GPS, it's going to be more the cost of the screen. I don't think you're going to find any in-dash with useable nav that isn't going to have GPS built in. This looks to be what you're looking for: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/AppRadio
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2014 21:47
|
|
|
MikeyTsi posted:The cost for the "$1,000" unit isn't the cost of the GPS, it's going to be more the cost of the screen. Nah, it's the GPS. Those three magic letters tack hundreds of dollars onto anything else. Look at (for example) Pioneer's line—they share a screen and audio board across the line. Add nav, add $400. Back when they still offered accessory nav, the add-on unit ran $500–$600. It's not quite as insulting as what the car manufacturers are charging, but it's still ridiculous. Especially given the steaming pile of poo poo you're getting for the money. Dustoph posted:I'm looking for something that works well with the iphone 5, and only have 1 cable for audio and video, if that exists yet. I'm also looking to be able to use the phones GPS with google or apple maps, and not have to pay a subscription to Garmin, or pay $1,000 for a deck with built in GPS. It does not exist yet. Alpine's just announced it's got a couple CarPlay products in the wings, so maybe hold out hope for that. Pioneer's response to Lightning has been to bring out head unit after head unit that relies on the ever-longer-discontinued analog output. You can listen to music on Pioneer units without festooning your vehicle with home theater cables and adapters, but that's about it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2014 23:04
|
|
|
Does anyone have access to pinouts for the current gen Accords? Picking up an Accord Sport and it absolutely needs to be upgraded. Considering how obtrusive the onboard DSP is, I'm going to have to spring for a Cleansweep on this build. edit: Looks like you can disable the DSP in software on the factory head unit, the option is even called 'FLAT'. Quality LOC can handle the rest. SynMoo fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Apr 16, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2014 00:48
|
|
|
I have a 2005 Buick Lesabre, I've just been using a tape adapter hooked up to my phone but now I get "Tight Tape" warnings and it spits out the adapter, can't seem to get it fixed. What are my options to cheaply get an aux-in hookup? Getting a new head unit looks like a pain in the rear end because I need to get an expensive factory integration adapter. Is there a cheap/easy way to install an aux-in to the factory headunit?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 15:14
|
|
|
Jerome Louis posted:I have a 2005 Buick Lesabre, I've just been using a tape adapter hooked up to my phone but now I get "Tight Tape" warnings and it spits out the adapter, can't seem to get it fixed. What are my options to cheaply get an aux-in hookup? Getting a new head unit looks like a pain in the rear end because I need to get an expensive factory integration adapter. Is there a cheap/easy way to install an aux-in to the factory headunit?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 16:00
|
|
|
SynMoo posted:
Wonder if this can be done to the current generation CRV. The factory EQ is not only terrible for aftermarket speakers, it also changes based on volume setting - so if you do stick a cleansweep on it you can't change the volume on the head unit anymore.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 16:09
|
|
|
While waiting to build and install my sub in the trunk, I grabbed the Dynamat door kit to try to reduce rattling and buzzing, as well as cutting down road noise in my 07 Mazda 3 sedan. So far I have only done my front driver side door, and noticed a moderate improvement. That door had the worst buzz, and it's all but disappeared unless I push the speaker hard. It looks like I will be using about 3/4 of the 12 square feet in my front doors. Where would be the best place to stick the rest of the Dynamat - trunk, rear doors or floor?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2014 18:03
|
|
|
Jerome Louis posted:I have a 2005 Buick Lesabre, I've just been using a tape adapter hooked up to my phone but now I get "Tight Tape" warnings and it spits out the adapter, can't seem to get it fixed. What are my options to cheaply get an aux-in hookup? Getting a new head unit looks like a pain in the rear end because I need to get an expensive factory integration adapter. Is there a cheap/easy way to install an aux-in to the factory headunit? This is not intended to insult your intelligence, but have you considered greasing the tape adapter?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 02:52
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:This is not intended to insult your intelligence, but have you considered greasing the tape adapter? Yeah, I know that seemed the obvious answer after reading my post so I went and did all that, even buying a new tape adapter to see if the one I was using was the problem, but at this point it seems clear to me the problem is with the tape deck itself rather than the adapters
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2014 14:18
|
|
|
I've got stock audio everything in my 2008 Pontiac G5. My audio is kinda rear end, so I want to finally invest in some decent equipment. My budget is low though. I don't really wanna spend more than $300-$400. Whereeee should I start? From what I've been reading, the wire kit in my car is weird. I listen to mostly rock. No hip hop, no rap, almost no electronic stuff either. 89 fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Apr 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 01:04
|
|
|
89 posted:I listen to mostly rock. No hip hop, no rap, almost no electronic stuff either. Found it, at under half your proposed expense. They may even throw in a copy of Escape - Journeys' BESTEST cassette.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 03:08
|
|
|
I have probably the easiest subwoofer install scenario for a stock car but I've been too lazy to do it. Until now. Back in the day I used to have a minimum of a mid grade 12" (~$200-400 for the speaker usually) but I've grown up a bit. Now size is a factor and I just want a nice ten. I don't necessarily want to spend a ton too, but if its worth it I will. My car has a factory pioneer 10" sub in the trunk. My plan, mostly due to laziness, is to simply take that out and use the high level inputs into another amp and sub that I buy. The factory amp is in a really lovely obnoxious place on the firewall and I'd rather leave it be unless there is good reason to get rid of it. My factory battery is also in the trunk however, making wiring everything so easy. If this doesn't sound like a crappy plan, can someone recommend me a good 10" that doesn't require a *lot* of volume in a box? I'm on a EDM bender of various kinds that doesn't seem to be going away as far as music goes, but I will also listen to slightly older rap, mid 90's to early 2000's alternative, and poppy crap occasionally. I prefer tighter bass, although I do find frequency fall offs annoying. But I know I'll have to make plenty of compromises with a small box 10". I'm so long out of the game I don't know what's good for the money anymore. It's a subcompact car (cobalt ss 4dr) but the trunk is otherwise completely empty so if the gains for a little more volume are totally worth it then I will. I'm probably not setup to make my own box where I'm at either, at the moment. edit: In the past I've been partial to Alpine, Infinity, and Kickers, but almost entirely due to the fact I got kick rear end deals on those brands. I'm very open. I used to always want a JL 10, but I never knew if they were really worth $250+ Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Apr 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
So we just imported an Estima and it came with one of these in the dashboard: http://pioneer.jp/press-e/index/1474 Specifically, the FH-P9900MD. It's been switched to English and the radio seems to work fine, but when I put a MiniDisc in it, sometimes it says "Reading TOC" and then "Error-19". However, I hosed around with formatting the discs and eventually got one of them to start playing and it reads the track names and everything, but it's just completely silent. So yeah there's sound coming out when it's in radio mode, but MD playback is just completely silent. There's no headphone/aux jack or anything to test it with so I'm not sure what's happening there. On top of this, I'm not sure if the CD drive is working at all. I shoved a CD in and the motors don't engage to grab the disc at all, I almost pushed the disc in so far that I wouldn't be able to get it back out with my fingers but I didn't think I'd need to go that far. Do you guys think the deck's just totally hosed? Anyone know where I might find a manual for this thing? I was super stoked when my wife brought the car home to find a MiniDisc deck in it so I'd really love to get it working, but I'm thinking maybe we'll have to just turf it.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 02:46
|
|
|
Jerome Louis posted:I have a 2005 Buick Lesabre, I've just been using a tape adapter hooked up to my phone but now I get "Tight Tape" warnings and it spits out the adapter, can't seem to get it fixed. What are my options to cheaply get an aux-in hookup? Getting a new head unit looks like a pain in the rear end because I need to get an expensive factory integration adapter. Is there a cheap/easy way to install an aux-in to the factory headunit? You don't necessarily need the integration adapter - but not using it will get rid of all beeps, bells, etc, basically any warning sounds. It also gets rid of retained accessory power for the radio (that thing where the radio stays on for 10 minutes or until you open a door), along with losing OnStar (if you actually use it). This is what you need, and if you buy a stereo in the same purchase, you get 50% off of the adapter. Brings it down to $65, which honestly isn't that bad (the same adapter for my car is about $150.. when I can find it). And Crutchfield includes the mounting kit and antenna adapter.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 07:32
|
|
|
Would't mind a critique of my component choice for my build in about two weeks. 2014 Accord Sport Front: Rockford Fosgate P165-S Rear: Rockford Fosgate P165 Amp: Rockford Fosgate R400-4D Sub: Infinity BassLink (already have) Processor: JL Cleansweep Plus $200 in install gear, deadening, etc. Looking at about $800 total. I wish the Cleansweep weren't so drat expensive. Turns out you can't (semi-permanently) defeat the DSP in non-nav equipped Accords. The plan is to hold on to this car for quite some time, so I don't want to half-rear end anything.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 00:53
|
|
|
SynMoo posted:Would't mind a critique of my component choice for my build in about two weeks. 2014 Accord Sport You'd get better bass (lower and louder using less power) with a bigger sub box and separate amp, but you already have that one so  I am not at all familiar with that sub setup, but I would recommend running its wiring as if you were wiring up a separate amp and cabinet. By doing so, you will make it far easier to upgrade components if that dies or you want to install separate components in the future. At the very least, you will just have to spend a bit more time on that piece than you would otherwise, but you won't have to rewire it all if you change your mind in six months.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 02:54
|
|
|
Thanks for the input. I'd been using the BassLink for a few years in my previous car. I definitely won't set off car alarms, but is plenty for a reasonable listening volume and still has enough left for some modern electronic stuff. Last car was a hatchback, however. Well see how well the bass makes it up front. The rear seat composition is similar, but the deck lid has some metal in it now. Thankfully, swapping it out won't be difficult in the future if necessary. Source is coming from the pass through on the component amp and power from the dist block. E: typo SynMoo fucked around with this message at 14:00 on May 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 13:13
|
|
|
I have a Kicker L7 (08S12L74) that I'm looking to pick up an amp for. It's a 750/1500 4ohm DVC sub. The Hifonics BRX1600.1 is $200 on Amazon. Would that be a decent amp for this sub? Reviews are good and it says it'll do rated 1200w @ 2ohm.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 22:44
|
|
|
I wouldn't count on it actually doing 1200-1600 (or even 900) - Hifonics was a good brand a long time ago, but all of Maxxsonics brands are made in China these days. That said, I have a Maxxsonics amp (Crunch) that claims 1100W bridged. It's probably closer to about 200W RMS, but it's enough to rattle the entire car and annoy nearby car alarms (Polk single coil 12" sub, lovely walmart sealed box). I'd probably spend the extra  on this.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:53 on May 4, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 09:49
|
|
|
Heh. I tried that exact Kicker amp and it didn't perform well at all for me. Then again, it was a friend's amp that he had laying around, so it may have just been a poo poo sample. The one I'm using now is some laffo Soundstorm 500x2 thing.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 20:50
|
|
|
Sup goons, I recently bought a mazda3 s touring. It has the bose audio package, it sounds good but there is a lot of white noise in the background. Is there anyway to boost the audio a bit without kicking my wallet in the nuts? I have a fosgate 250 a2, it's mega old 90's era.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 23:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 01:05 |
|
|
Wokrider posted:Sup goons, I recently bought a mazda3 s touring. What do you mean by white noise? I have an 07, and it has a lot of wind and road noise. I'm slowly fixing this in my car with sound damping product - Dynamat is what I'm using. It's a bit more labor intensive compared to a new head unit, amp and speakers, from my vast experience of applying a small amount to one single car and doing just a couple simple speaker and HU swaps. If there is static or it constantly sounds like you are tuning to a station that is slightly out of range, it could be a simple fix like a loose antenna or it could be unfixable without a full system swap. It depends on what is causing it. My radio started sounding like poo poo one day, because my car wash unscrewed the antenna and put it in my back seat, and didn't reinstall it after the wash. I had the radio off, and didn't notice until I started the car the next day and no stations would come in.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 00:31
|
|