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berzerkmonkey posted:Or this - I picked up a few cans of the Army Painter sprays, and, while pricey, they are pretty drat awesome. Liquitex Professional spray paints are certified Good poo poo. http://www.liquitex.com/spraypaintfeatures/ http://www.liquitex.com/uploadedFiles/COL%203175.5%20Colour%20Chart%20Leaflet_Web%20version(3).pdf You can even spray this poo poo inside, no big deal. my kinda ape fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Apr 24, 2014 |
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Apr 24, 2014 06:17
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The thing that concerns me about the Liquitex (and Minitaire, for that matter) is that you don't have a matching color you can brush on when you inevitably overpaint something you shouldn't have.
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Apr 24, 2014 13:10
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In case anybody was wondering if GW's new tools were fairly priced: http://tomschadleminiatures.blogspot.com/2014/04/games-workshop-has-recently-advertised.html
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Apr 24, 2014 13:46
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Dr. Clockwork posted:In case anybody was wondering if GW's new tools were fairly priced: Hahaha that's brilliant.
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Apr 24, 2014 13:56
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Dr. Clockwork posted:In case anybody was wondering if GW's new tools were fairly priced: Its worth noting that the mold line remover doesn't have any blade to speak of. So a convex hobby knife isn't a like for like replacement. I would never pay for it because its overpriced but the GW mold line thing is pretty nice, it has no blade, just a hard edge that scrapes off mold lines. I like using it, because I know I can go at the mold lines pretty mindlessly without worrying about an exacto knife cutting into details or marking the model in some way.
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Apr 24, 2014 14:11
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Stinky Pit posted:Its worth noting that the mold line remover doesn't have any blade to speak of. So a convex hobby knife isn't a like for like replacement. Cant you just use the back of an hobby knife blade?
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Apr 24, 2014 14:16
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SRM posted:I've been chomping at the bit for Forgeworld to come out with Guilliman to see your take on him! Sorry to play the pedant, but this is a pet peeve of mine. The phrase is champing at the bit. And no I don't care that language evolves, and that chomp essentially means the same as champ; champ came first, it is the correct phrase, so there  OK, I'm good now...berzerkmonkey posted:The thing that concerns me about the Liquitex (and Minitaire, for that matter) is that you don't have a matching color you can brush on when you inevitably overpaint something you shouldn't have. Just spray into a cup for 3-5 seconds to get the tiny amount of paint you need for touch-ups. No biggie.
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Apr 24, 2014 15:08
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dexefiend posted:Cant you just use the back of an hobby knife blade? For a lot of things yes but you still have to pay attention you wont nick or mark the model, especially in tight places. I won one of the old ones at my LGS along with this little brush and while I didn't think much of it I tried it one day and found I really liked it. Its still a hilariously overpriced joke but I was just pointing out that I couldn't get the same functionality out of a convex hobby knife that I have gotten out of this thing.
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Apr 24, 2014 15:10
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Indolent Bastard posted:Sorry to play the pedant, but this is a pet peeve of mine. The phrase is champing at the bit. And no I don't care that language evolves, and that chomp essentially means the same as champ; champ came first, it is the correct phrase, so there
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Apr 24, 2014 15:37
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Testors dullcote liquid is next to impossible to find in the UK it seems, does anyone have any other recommendations for a matte varnish that can be fired through an airbrush with minimal effort?
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Apr 24, 2014 15:54
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Skarsnik posted:Testors dullcote liquid is next to impossible to find in the UK it seems, does anyone have any other recommendations for a matte varnish that can be fired through an airbrush with minimal effort? Liquitex matte varnish thinned down with matte medium seems to work well for some, I think, but I haven't tried this yet. I've tried some of the Vallejo and Badger matte varnishes and haven't gotten the same look as Dullcote yet, need to experiment a bit more.
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Apr 24, 2014 16:00
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krushgroove posted:Liquitex matte varnish thinned down with matte medium seems to work well for some, I think, but I haven't tried this yet. I've tried some of the Vallejo and Badger matte varnishes and haven't gotten the same look as Dullcote yet, need to experiment a bit more. You shouldn't need to thin Liquitex matte varnish. They say not to on their website and I haven't had to.
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Apr 24, 2014 16:01
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this stuff right? http://www.artsupplies.co.uk/item-liquitex-matte-varnish-flexible-surface.htm
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Apr 24, 2014 16:08
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If spray cans are ok for you, Tamiya do a decent spray matte varnish.
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Apr 24, 2014 16:18
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Skarsnik posted:this stuff right? Yes. Pour into your airbrush, set the correct pressure and spray.
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Apr 24, 2014 16:35
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Indolent Bastard posted:Sorry to play the pedant, but this is a pet peeve of mine. The phrase is champing at the bit. And no I don't care that language evolves, and that chomp essentially means the same as champ; champ came first, it is the correct phrase, so there 
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Apr 24, 2014 16:37
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Indolent Bastard posted:Yes. Lovely, thanks to both of you
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Apr 24, 2014 16:42
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Pierzak posted:I like how the very page you posted links "chomp" as variant Yes but it is a Johhny-come-lately bullshit variant that deserves nothing but hatred and derision.
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Apr 24, 2014 16:55
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I've been wanting to get a finer airbrush for doing stuff a little more detailed than just base coats and what not. Should I get the Krome or the patriot for that?
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Apr 24, 2014 18:03
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Indolent Bastard posted:Yes but it is a Johhny-come-lately bullshit variant that deserves nothing but hatred and derision. There are plenty of idioms to get upset about. Champing vs. chomping in an era where equestrian-centric nomenclature is all but eliminated due to practically the only people who own horses these days are throwback ranchers and rich prisses isn't necessarily some "Johnny-come-lately" thing. On-topic: Does anyone here have a recommendation for either brush-on or indoor-safe primer applications? Portland being the city that never ceases to have rain and stupid high humidity, I'd really like an option for priming models that isn't waiting on the occasional decent day to rush out and prime 50 models so I have something to paint between decent weather days.
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Apr 24, 2014 18:23
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koreban posted:On-topic: Does anyone here have a recommendation for either brush-on or indoor-safe primer applications? Portland being the city that never ceases to have rain and stupid high humidity, I'd really like an option for priming models that isn't waiting on the occasional decent day to rush out and prime 50 models so I have something to paint between decent weather days. im hardly a pro so feel free to disregard this experience, but being unable to find my spray primer I settled and tried out the Citadel Black Brush-on primer. I had picked it up originally for touchups in hard to spray areas, and it took a little getting used to (and a couple coats) but ultimately worked pretty darn well.
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Apr 24, 2014 18:26
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koreban posted:On-topic: Does anyone here have a recommendation for either brush-on or indoor-safe primer applications? Portland being the city that never ceases to have rain and stupid high humidity, I'd really like an option for priming models that isn't waiting on the occasional decent day to rush out and prime 50 models so I have something to paint between decent weather days. Airbrush primer and a spray booth. Seriously. Also the airbrush primer doubles as brush-on primer.
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Apr 24, 2014 18:31
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I've had a lot of luck with Vallejo Surface Primer, mostly with an airbrush but also as a brush-on (for example, priming a face in white and body in black). The stuff shrinks down to the model surface with negligible loss of detail; plus it comes in comparably gigantic bottles, so you'll probably never run out unless you paint whole armies in one go. It's great!
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Apr 24, 2014 18:51
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berzerkmonkey posted:The thing that concerns me about the Liquitex (and Minitaire, for that matter) is that you don't have a matching color you can brush on when you inevitably overpaint something you shouldn't have. You can with Minitaire, it's just thinned down. Need that color you just airbrushed? Put it on your palette. It was designed for that in mind.
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Apr 24, 2014 19:30
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Bavius posted:You can with Minitaire, it's just thinned down. Need that color you just airbrushed? Put it on your palette. It was designed for that in mind. That's good to know - the guy at the Badger booth at Adepticon said that you probably wouldn't get good results. Though he could have been erring on the side of "I don't want this guy coming back and raising hell because he tried to paint an army using Minitaire paints with brushes instead of an airbrush."
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Apr 24, 2014 19:54
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Yep, I use it all the time for touch-ups and sometimes paint it on straight out of the bottle.
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Apr 24, 2014 20:07
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Indolent Bastard posted:Just spray into a cup for 3-5 seconds to get the tiny amount of paint you need for touch-ups. No biggie. That or a lot of the Liquitex sprays are actually matches to colors in their acrylic line. The ones that aren't are color matches with black or white added to darken/lighten them.
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Apr 24, 2014 20:35
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Hellbeard posted:Another head sculpt practice. 1:56 scale. Never did I dare think that I would witness a, "I'm the guy diddling your sister" face in miniature scale, but there it is. drat, son.
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Apr 24, 2014 21:13
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koreban posted:There are plenty of idioms to get upset about. Champing vs. chomping in an era where equestrian-centric nomenclature is all but eliminated due to practically the only people who own horses these days are throwback ranchers and rich prisses isn't necessarily some "Johnny-come-lately" thing. Being another Portlander I feel your pain. I just airbrush all my models indoors instead of waiting for the rain to stop.
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Apr 24, 2014 21:35
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I recently found almost all my paints are dried out despite their lids being on tight. I'm going to reconstitute them with some kind of acrylic medium as soon as Craft Warehouse has its 50% off sale on the 2nd-4th, but it occurs to me that it will probably just dry out again in a few years at most. However, what if I store them in a vacuum pouch? Has anyone tried that, getting an airless vacuum bag and putting your box of paint in there?
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Apr 24, 2014 23:23
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big_g posted:Actually filter is a standard artistic term and they have been used on scale models for decades (usually with oil paints). I don't know why Games Workshop decided to call their filters a glaze. Filter is the term scale modelers tend to use more but mini painters and wargamers tend to talk about glazes more and be talking about acrylics rather than oils. GW didn't make that up, it's been a thing people did with paints GW and otherwise for ages.
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Apr 24, 2014 23:45
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JoshTheStampede posted:Filter is the term scale modelers tend to use more but mini painters and wargamers tend to talk about glazes more and be talking about acrylics rather than oils. GW didn't make that up, it's been a thing people did with paints GW and otherwise for ages. Thank you, that's pretty much what I should have said in response but I was having a snarky moment 
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Apr 25, 2014 00:06
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Silhouette posted:Only about 50% less than the GW offerings? poo poo, I can do better than that. Would needle files like these (or the ones listed in the original link that you replied to) be appropriate for metal minis? I've seen diamond files mentioned as well, but didn't know if one was superior than the other for cleaning up metal flash and mold lines.
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Apr 25, 2014 01:46
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Implementor posted:Would needle files like these (or the ones listed in the original link that you replied to) be appropriate for metal minis? I've seen diamond files mentioned as well, but didn't know if one was superior than the other for cleaning up metal flash and mold lines. Diamond files are terrible for soft material. The pewter just gets smeared into the diamond grit and is nigh-on unremovable giving them a short life as a modeling tool (though they do a great job on steel).
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Apr 25, 2014 02:34
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So I finally decided to airbrush a model today for the first time and yeah, it didnt work out so well. For reference I am using the Badger Patriot 105 and the Nebula Red Minitaire paint. The paint came out very runny and for lack of a better word sticky.
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Apr 25, 2014 04:13
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Your paint wasn't mixed properly, your airbrush was too close to the mini and you sprayed on too much paint at once.
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Apr 25, 2014 04:25
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Slowly getting back into Warmachine and my desire to paint is finally back. Playing a completely new game system with different models is so invigorating to hit the paints again. Grabbed some Kriel Bearer's the other day and started this blind tonight with nothing really in mind when it came to a pattern.  
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Apr 25, 2014 04:38
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Finally got around to putting together/painting the Imperial Bastion: The objectives:  And everything I've painted this month:   
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Apr 25, 2014 04:39
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Indolent Bastard posted:Diamond files are terrible for soft material. The pewter just gets smeared into the diamond grit and is nigh-on unremovable giving them a short life as a modeling tool (though they do a great job on steel). I ruined my files doing this, but I had no alternative. Eventually I went back with a razor blade and manually chiseled out every little groove filled with the pweter crap
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