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Slandible
Apr 30, 2008

Finished up the first troll bearer, started a second, and finished him tonight. Still need to figure out troll eyes though.





Such a relief to not be painting space armor.

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Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

WhiteOutMouse posted:

http://www.decalpaper.com/default.asp

I saw this linked before and I have added it to my long list of bookmarked pages. They seem to have Inkjet versions and Laser versions with some adorably Ma & Pa how-to videos.

I may eventually buy laser pages if I ever decide to deal something since I have banned printers from my home. I can't stand printers anymore, garbage software/support and expensive ink. I'll just print an armylist at work when no one is looking (12a-9a shift, oh yeah) or go to a copy-shop and spend a buck.

Thanks, but I'm in the UK :) I'm sure I'll find some. Printing at work is a good idea though, I could use their fancy laserjet. Now, would I be better off with white or clear paper for that green Marine I posted?

Iris of Ether
Sep 29, 2005

Valkyrie is not amused

Fureil posted:

So I somehow need to acquire a bass guitar, mic stand with a mic, and an amp that would be of the appropriate scale for a 40k mini. Any ideas, or is my best bet going to be green stuff and foamcore? I need this for reasons that I promise to post pictures of once its completed.

You can at a minimum get the guitar and microphone bits from here.

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang

Lungboy posted:

Thanks, but I'm in the UK :) I'm sure I'll find some. Printing at work is a good idea though, I could use their fancy laserjet. Now, would I be better off with white or clear paper for that green Marine I posted?

I'd go with transparent personally. White will mean needing much closer cropping when you cut the decal off of the sheet.

Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Apr 26, 2014

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Lungboy posted:

Thanks, but I'm in the UK :) I'm sure I'll find some. Printing at work is a good idea though, I could use their fancy laserjet. Now, would I be better off with white or clear paper for that green Marine I posted?

I use 'Experts Choice Decal Film'. Not sure about the UK thing though.

Get clear paper. White is a pain in the rear end to work with unless your shapes are easy to cut out exactly with a hobby knife.

Pacheeco
Feb 26, 2004

The Sisko posted:

So I finally decided to airbrush a model today for the first time and yeah, it didnt work out so well. For reference I am using the Badger Patriot 105 and the Nebula Red Minitaire paint. The paint came out very runny and for lack of a better word sticky.



If the paint came out tacky you definitely put on too much at a time and didn't give it enough time to dry. A good airbrushed coat of paint will dry incredibly quickly, like, in a matter of minutes quickly.

You're probably airbrushing far too close. I can't really give you a concrete distance as it all depends on the paint quality and PSI settings so just play around with it until you can get paint on the model that lands with a slightly damp sheen but doesn't pool up instantly.

Your PSI is probably way too high. Drop it down to 20 and stay there until you get really good at base coating then you can start playing with going higher for busting out base coats really fast or going lower to do detail work.

You're drenching your model in paint. Do lighter coats and learn some trigger control. Down for air, back and forth for volume. You really shouldn't ever be pulling the trigger all the way back unless you're basecoating like, a Land Raider or doing some terrain and even then it's probably still too much. You want your paint coats to just look like slightly damp layers. If you can see the paint pooling in crevices you've sprayed way too much.

You probably didn't mix your paint enough. Even if it looks mixed, mix it some more. Some color separate like crazy into 3 layers, others *look* well mixed all the time but always stir/roll your paints to mix them up before you start using them. I HIGHLY suggest getting some kind of battery powered paint stirrer as Minitaire paint doesn't like being shaken up. Failing that, throw some inert mixing agitators (lava rock, glass beads, etc.) into your paint bottles. Minitaire paint needs to be really well mixed for best results.

Also, and this is definitely not the "root" cause of your problems, your primer might have lost some of its "tooth; either from over priming or handling wear.


VolatileSky posted:

So apparently I'm just powering that poo poo onto my model so far since I usually set it to around 28-30 psi.

Lower psi ranges give a finer spray diameter though, right?

I will basecoat at 25-30 PSI to save time (it wastes paint though) but you gotta know just how far away to be when you're working with high PSI otherwise you end up with bad pooling or spider webbing.

When you drop to lower PSI the paint will come out, like, very wet and loose; it's hard to explain but it just feels like the paint is coming out slow (which it is) and it's hitting the model more wet than if you were spraying at 20 or 30 PSI and the spray fill isn't very good (which isn't a bad thing if you're trying to get in close) and the paint particles kind of feel "bigger". This is just my personal experience though, I like my "airbrushing process" to go faster so I end to go with higher PSI. Some people prefer higher PSI and some prefer lower. Different airbrushes can also behave differently; a large needle airbrush might make a huge mess if you drop the PSI too low but a small needle airbrush isn't going to cover as much area even if you crank the PSI way up.


Basically, the lesson here is you gotta airbrush A LOT before you really get the hang of it. At one point I was airbrushing 5 or 6 days a week using it for anything I could find an excuse to use it for just to get the practice in and I still consider myself "just alright" with them.

Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 10:01 on Apr 26, 2014

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP
To my shame, I've had an airbrush for years and have never plucked up the courage to use it :(

Ratflinger
Jul 1, 2010
I made a visit to the local hobby store and picked up some cork and matte varnish in order to make some rock for bases/terrain. I have never done this before, but seen some people giving cork a coat of glue before painting. With varnish, I guess I would first shape, prime and paint the cork and then apply varnish?

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Ratflinger posted:

I made a visit to the local hobby store and picked up some cork and matte varnish in order to make some rock for bases/terrain. I have never done this before, but seen some people giving cork a coat of glue before painting. With varnish, I guess I would first shape, prime and paint the cork and then apply varnish?

When I use cork I just glue it down, apply primer and paint; no extra steps really.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Shokk Attack Gun incoming:





signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting
Welp I just became a full-on Minitaire convert. I tried em out with airbrush and tried em out with regular brush, and drat if they don't work great both without needing to thin them and also providing ridiculous color saturation per coat. Now I just need to save up to buy that set on Amazon.

Pacheeco
Feb 26, 2004

signalnoise posted:

Welp I just became a full-on Minitaire convert. I tried em out with airbrush and tried em out with regular brush, and drat if they don't work great both without needing to thin them and also providing ridiculous color saturation per coat. Now I just need to save up to buy that set on Amazon.

Some of the paints, like Werewolf Grey, really like to separate on the model weather you airbrush them or paint them on (at least on the primer I use). Other than that, and that they dry glossy so it's sometimes a pain to brush on additional layers, they're really good paints and I hope they expand their color line eventually.

Indolent Bastard posted:

When I use cork I just glue it down, apply primer and paint; no extra steps really.

I don't even bother priming my cork bases but my base color is gray anyways. Cork definitely doesn't need much help getting paint to adhere to it.

Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Apr 26, 2014

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting

Pacheeco posted:

Some of the paints, like Werewolf Grey, really like to separate on the model weather you airbrush them or paint them on (at least on the primer I use). Other than that, and that they dry glossy so it's sometimes a pain to brush on additional layers, they're really good paints and I hope they expand their color line eventually.

What primer do you use?

Pacheeco
Feb 26, 2004

signalnoise posted:

What primer do you use?

I've been using Rustoleum 2x Ultra Cover Flat White which is absolutely great otherwise. So far I've only had problems with Werewolf Gray on it. I'll spray it (or brush it) on but that specific color has a really hard time binding to edges (even more rounded ones like on Tyranid carapaces) and sometimes it will just "move" away from certain spots on the model, even flat surfaces, as if there's like oil or something in that particular spot that is stopping the paint from binding to the primer. It's definitely not a mixing issue and the primer coat is spotless clean, I rarely ever handle the painted surfaces of my models. It's really weird. I've tried hitting the primer with a matte varnish to increase the "tooth" before laying down that color and it seems to help a little but I didn't get to test it multiple times though.

Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Apr 26, 2014

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer

Skarsnik posted:

Shokk Attack Gun incoming:







This owns, you own, everything owns.

Bavius
Jun 4, 2010

Smurfs don't lay eggs! I won't tell you this again! Papa Smurf has a fucking beard! They're mammals!
Loving the Shokk attack gun, that model sold me on orks to be honest.

I wish I had some ork photos to share, but I'm just stopping by to post my latest squad. There's alot I don't like about these, but I really need to just finish an army so I'm calling them done. I can come back and pick out details that I missed if I feel like it.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Fyrbrand posted:

This owns, you own, everything owns.

Thanks! :)

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Bavius posted:

Loving the Shokk attack gun, that model sold me on orks to be honest.

I wish I had some ork photos to share, but I'm just stopping by to post my latest squad. There's alot I don't like about these, but I really need to just finish an army so I'm calling them done. I can come back and pick out details that I missed if I feel like it.



If you add some thin, sharp white highlights to the edges of those power weapons you'll like the result!

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
Do people usually base pre-model or after you're done with it? It's a bit annoying having to scrape sections of the base clean to glue but I still find I prefer doing bases separate.

Serotonin
Jul 14, 2001

The history of all hitherto existing society is the history of *blank*

Pacheeco posted:




Basically, the lesson here is you gotta airbrush A LOT before you really get the hang of it. At one point I was airbrushing 5 or 6 days a week using it for anything I could find an excuse to use it for just to get the practice in and I still consider myself "just alright" with them.

On airbrushing front Ive discovered a fantastic product for cleaning them- Muc Off.

http://muc-off.com/
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_160859_langId_-1_categoryId_228374

Its sold in the UK in MTB shops (although I got mine from Halfords) and is a mountain bike cleaning product, but it works amazingly well for cleaning airbrushes. Just finished up airbrushing, blasted some of this through followed by clean water and then some alcohol and everything's come up shiny and new looking!
Its not a cheap product but compared to dedicated airbrush cleaners it looks good value.

VolatileSky
May 5, 2007
i'm gay thx

SUPER NEAT TOY posted:

Do people usually base pre-model or after you're done with it? It's a bit annoying having to scrape sections of the base clean to glue but I still find I prefer doing bases separate.

If I'm using a brush, I'll base it all at once so everythings primed at the same time as well. For airbrushing I'm doing the models on a cork/rod-into-the-foot, then basing them. But usually it just depends how much crap is on the base/in the way, and whatever makes painting the actual model easier.

Like painting the base is simple, and it's easy to force the look of a shadow if you can't quite reach a spot under the model on the base.

The Sex Cannon
Nov 22, 2004

Eh. I'm pretty content with my current logo.
Finished my flamer-toting guardsmen today:

They're converted from the Steel Legion plasma gunner. If you remember, I've also done melta gunners, and here's all three side by side:

I'm quite happy with how my conversions have panned out.

Bonus picture of my helper:


She's the main reason I always empty my brush water whenever I get up to do anything.

Pacheeco
Feb 26, 2004

Serotonin posted:

On airbrushing front Ive discovered a fantastic product for cleaning them- Muc Off.

http://muc-off.com/
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_160859_langId_-1_categoryId_228374

Its sold in the UK in MTB shops (although I got mine from Halfords) and is a mountain bike cleaning product, but it works amazingly well for cleaning airbrushes. Just finished up airbrushing, blasted some of this through followed by clean water and then some alcohol and everything's come up shiny and new looking!
Its not a cheap product but compared to dedicated airbrush cleaners it looks good value.

I wouldn't be surprised if this was pretty close in composition to Castrol Super Clean which is concentrated cleaning fluid that you can use to de-grease engines and strip paint of miniatures. I have a squirt bottle filled with Windex I use to flush my airbrushes out while I'm using them and then when I need to deep clean I give them a few cycles in a cheap ultrasonic jewelry cleaner filled with Windex.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

edit: wrong thread

AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Apr 27, 2014

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Tadhg posted:

Does anybody have recommendations on forest themed resin bases? I make a lot of my own bases, but for my Wood Elf characters I'm looking for something a little more scenic than I usually do. Most of the forest bases that I've seen are little more than a sand texture with a few roots showing through; I'd like something flashier.

So far the closest that I've found are Micro Art Studio forest bases, which have a lot of nice 3D on them, but many of them are a bit too busy. I especially like the idea of their 40mmx40mm flying base, but I'd rather not have the naked tree dryad popping out of a every tree in a unit of warhawk riders.

I came upon this article that might be useful for making your own vegetation, I think it'd especially compliment the basius pad reliefs.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look

signalnoise posted:

Welp I just became a full-on Minitaire convert. I tried em out with airbrush and tried em out with regular brush, and drat if they don't work great both without needing to thin them and also providing ridiculous color saturation per coat. Now I just need to save up to buy that set on Amazon.

This is a great time to mention to everyone that Badger's UK distributor, Barwell Body Works, is providing a full Minitaire set as a grand prize for the Oath Thread that's just finishing up, and have promised the same AGAIN (plus starter sets for quarterly prizes!) for the Oath Thread (season 5!) that starts on the 1st :)

So anyone that wants to give it a try, all you have to do is complete an Oath and you'll be in it to win it, plus many other fantastic prizes!

Crab Dad
Dec 28, 2002

behold i have tempered and refined thee, but not as silver; as CRAB


Were do you guys buy coat d'arms paints online in the states? I'm kinda striking out on google.

jodai
Mar 2, 2010

Banging with all due hardness.
I decided to try to cover the seams on my latest model with some liquid green stuff. I had always assumed it was actually liquid but it's kinda chunky and semi solid. Is that normal? I tried to apply it with a toothpick and I think it worked but now I'm worried I've got a bad batch.

Bavius
Jun 4, 2010

Smurfs don't lay eggs! I won't tell you this again! Papa Smurf has a fucking beard! They're mammals!

serious gaylord posted:

If you add some thin, sharp white highlights to the edges of those power weapons you'll like the result!

I don't think you can see it due to my phone hand being shaky but I did do a very light white/blue on the edges.

Squad Ikanos


Squad Kratos






Arcteryx Anarchist
Sep 15, 2007

Fun Shoe

jodai posted:

I decided to try to cover the seams on my latest model with some liquid green stuff. I had always assumed it was actually liquid but it's kinda chunky and semi solid. Is that normal? I tried to apply it with a toothpick and I think it worked but now I'm worried I've got a bad batch.

I always feel like with most citadel 'technical' paints and metallics you really want to make sure to shake them as much as you think you should and then shake them that amount again. It should be smooth but pretty thick, kind of like white glue IME

Takkaryx
Oct 17, 2007

Bunnies (very useful) Scientific Facts: Bunnies never close doors
Cross-post: I painted up a Crimson Hunter for an upcoming tourney. Expect lots more pics soon of more tanks (so many tanks), as I have a ton to paint by then, but lots of Game of Thrones and House of Cards to catch up on, so win/win?





The white glue on the base is still drying a bit, but I couldn't wait to take pics :v:

Apollodorus
Feb 13, 2010

TEST YOUR MIGHT
:patriot:

Bavius posted:

I don't think you can see it due to my phone hand being shaky but I did do a very light white/blue on the edges.

Squad Ikanos


Squad Kratos








Those power weapons look great!

It's a shame terminator assault squads aren't more useful in the current edition because I really want to make some maybe I will anyway

Post 9-11 User
Apr 14, 2010

Takkaryx posted:

Cross-post: I painted up a Crimson Hunter for an upcoming tourney. Expect lots more pics soon of more tanks (so many tanks), as I have a ton to paint by then, but lots of Game of Thrones and House of Cards to catch up on, so win/win?

The white glue on the base is still drying a bit, but I couldn't wait to take pics :v:

I was going to cross-post this here if you weren't.

0% edge highlights, 100% gorgeous.

VolatileSky
May 5, 2007
i'm gay thx
I'm going to guess that's a sponge dab sorta paintjob? I'm planning the same thing on some wraithguard, though I'm not exactly looking forwards to doing it on smaller things, on something large it's tough to do as it is, and that flyer looks great.

Does anyone remember this wraitharmy?



I'm thinking of doing something similar, but what would speculations be on the colours, it looks like an off-white over a grey basecoat, and brown [salt] weathering?

Apollodorus
Feb 13, 2010

TEST YOUR MIGHT
:patriot:

Takkaryx posted:

Cross-post: I painted up a Crimson Hunter for an upcoming tourney.




I complimented you on this on the 40k thread too, but I wanted to ask: how did you do the off-white parts? Just bleached bone (or equivalent) + brown wash, or something else? That's exactly the look I want for the undercarriage on my Alaitoc vehicles, though I will be using yellow for surface decoration.

Also, seconding VolatileSky, is that sponged blue for the main fuselage?

Takkaryx
Oct 17, 2007

Bunnies (very useful) Scientific Facts: Bunnies never close doors
Thanks for all the compliments, everyone! The fuselage is grey primer, Liquitex Prussian Blue 5 rattle can, then a sponge coat of GW Regal Blue, then Enchanted Blue, then Ultramarine Blue, then another Enchanted, then another Regal. The bone is several coats of Bleached Bone, then several thick coats of Griphonne Sepia. Allow the sepia to pool, but dry completely, this gives it a nice wavy rippled effect.

The base is a package of dried moss from Michaels. Seriously, that's it. The moss itself has a bright green top, but dark and light brown roots. I slathered the base with white glue, broke off the brown parts of the moss, and laid them down all over the base. Then I pooled a big pile of white glue on top, and placed the bright green moss parts standing up in the pool. Once the white glue had dried a bit, I knocked off any bits that hadn't stuck, and blasted it several times with matt varnish to stick the mass together.

I might try my hand on some water effects on other bases, but mostly I'm just trying to slam these out fast, and I'm quite pleased with how the bases are coming out just with the moss.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Weathering Part 3: Oil Filters, Pin Washes, Lead Pencils, and (more) Metallic Alcohol Paints
- - - - - -
Part 0: What the models looked like before I attacked them
Part 1: Steel wool, dental tools, and chipping fluid
Part 2: Alcohol Paints, Scratch Highlights, Glow Effects, Lenses, and Custom Decals

I wrapped up my 30k vindicator project this weekend and thought I’d share the steps it took to get there. Oil washes and pigments are some of my favorite techniques and I hope this post demystifies what they can accomplish for you with a little time investment. Note: My phone camera is poo poo and the color depth is not doing these effects any justice.






I primarily use three oil washes- rusty orange, castle black, and burnt umber. I use them a lot, so I make them myself on the cheap (part 2 has steps on how to do this). Other than the paint, you’ll need mineral spirits as a solvent, synthetic brushes (oils will kill regular brushes quickly), sponges (I prefer makeup applicators), and a good respirator (seriously oil paints will kill you).


drat son. Check out how smooth and oily that wash is. Oils are really rich, thanks in part to a really high pigment count and a solvent with better properties than water. We’ll take advantage of those properties just like alcohol base paints.


The first thing I’ll do is add a heavy filter to the plow and bottom parts of the tank. I’d expect these areas it to get lots of grime and dirt as the vindicator shoves its way through soot filled terrain. I applied burnt umber to the lower areas first and then went back over the entire area with castle black and wet blended it together where needed. Oils are criminally easy to blend and evenly cover large areas even with small brushes. Note: It takes oils a good day or more to dry. Luckily, they dry to the touch within about an hour. If you’re impatient you can varnish over the top after an hour and keep painting.


As the filters dry, I’m going to add a ‘pin wash’ to all of the cracks and recesses. This adds a high level of contrast to the model through shading. Thanks to the super low surface tension of the solvent pin washes are way easier to use than acrylics- all you have to do is to soak your brush in the wash and ‘tap’ it against an edge. Capillary action sucks the wash from the brush and fills the crevice like magic (you can see how the wash flowed straight down after I touched my brush against the edge of the plow)



Notice that the paint sticks to the porous surface of the tank. That’s because my coat of gloss varnish wasn’t very thick. If you want clean edges and less work, a heavy gloss coat will prevent this. Likewise matte varnish will magnify it.


Side by side, the effect is a cell shaded effect.


After I’ve done both tanks, it’s time to ‘take back’ some of the filter effects. I use a piece of foam for large areas, makeup applicators along edges, and a small drybrush for fine spots. Stroking in one direction I drybrush mineral spirit onto the oil filter and wipe away the excess. I’ll do this in areas I’d expect the most light to hit while keeping the filter in the shadows preserved. This technique is my absolute favorite way to add depth to bright colors like white and yellow. They really come to life with an oil filter ontop.


The effect is really obvious on the bottom of the tank.


Pin washes are a bit different. I clean them up the same way I use the ‘smudge’ tool in Photoshop. Working from the outsides of the wash I use a damp brush with spirit to smear into the recess. In the last picture, side by side, you can see how smearing adds a nice organic break to the wash while keeping most of the contrast.


Here’s the final effect on larger parts of the tank- things look dirty and there’s a lot of contrast. Best of all, all the cracks and scratches are really pronounced. Earlier on I purposely dug into the paint and resin with a dental tool to create recesses (part 1). Now they’re filled up with a dark oil color and really pop. I don’t know the name for this technique, but I call it debossing.


Last, I’ll add some grime streaks along certain areas. These are areas where rain has created algae or rust. I use AK Panzer Grey for my greys and Winter Streaking Grime for my whites, but any oil wash could work here.


The process is straight forward. Glob on paint and make it flow downward. Then, while its still wet, grab a brush with mineral spirit and smear the streak away. Not bad for a few min of work!


I do this on a few areas of the tank body as well.


Now it’s time for line highlights. Personally, I’m not a big fan of them. They take a long time, screwups are costly, and it can look out of place on weathered models. I do them quickly and don’t get fancy- 2 colors for the greens, yellows, and whites. 2 colors for the greys and blacks. The yellow pops the most afterward while highlights on greys are pretty marginal. More on this later.


With the oils cleaned up and drying, it’s time for my final coat of varnish. I give the models a good coat of glosscote followed by dullcote from my airbrush (thinned varnish:spirit about 4:1). I also brush a thick layer of gloss onto the model’s lenses, viewports, and sensor bits.


My favorite highlights are alcohol based metallic paints. It’s hard to appreciate how shiny and bright they are from my pictures, but their luster is fantastic. I save these for last because varnish removes their shiny effect entirely. Once the varnish dries, I’ll go over the areas I want to highlight with my base copper color followed by a mixture of copper and old gold (at about 3:1). There’s almost no comparison when you look at them side by side.


Silver is last and gets drybrushed all over the model including flat panels that would get exposed to direct light. In my opinion, this is both easier and more interesting for metal surfaces than line highlights. All the upper facing surfaces of the Vindicator are now a shiny silver- so shiny, in fact, that they look white under my lamp. That’s how awesome these silver highlights are (and they took me about 20min using a large drybrush). The same effect can be achieved with an acrylic silver paint, but it’s less shiny and errors are much harder to deal with.


Yes, it’s true. The humble pencil is a quick way to get subtle weathering effects on your models. You can use any kind, but softer graphite is helpful.


You can make streaks and scratches!


Or add scrapes near hatches!


My favorite way to use pencils is to add a metal sheen to raised textured surfaces like power cables, hoses, and fans. Graphite is slightly reflective so you get a very subtle metallic effect.


The last step is to apply pigments, which are basically colors in powderd form. You can rub them on, brush them on like mud using water, or create spatters by mixing them with spirits and flicking them at things. The goal of these is to tie the model into the environment. My Iron Warriors are from an arid world and all their bases use these same colors. By adding these onto my tanks, I’m literally taking part of my base and sprinkling it over areas. This should help reinforce that every model is from the same deployment.


I use a large drybrush, rubbing it into a pile of pigment on a paper towel before applying it to my models. I applied this iron color over the cannon and combi bolter barrels.


I used the rust color on areas I wanted to have extra ‘glow’ or might have corroded over time.


Finally, I hit any areas where dust might gather with yellow, followed by violet, and lastly a bit of rust. The pigment looks really dusty and vibrant when it’s dry like this. Unfortunately, it also comes off incredibly easy. Fixing it in place requires hairspray, varnish, or rubbing alcohol. All of these remove the dusty effect and mute the colors, which sucks. Alcohol is my preferred method since it seems to remove the least amount of color.


Once I’m happy with the pigments, I’ll spray the model down with a heavy coat of rubbing alcohol. Once it’s dry… that’s it! All done!



:black101:

BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Apr 28, 2014

Mango Polo
Aug 4, 2007

This is loving awesome. I actually picked up a few tubes of oil paint last week, but I couldn't find any good tutorials or explanations on how to turn them properly into washes (gently caress you nuln "oil" for messing up search results). I don't suppose you could quick cover that?

Either way, these articles are super inspiring for my mechanicus army.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Thanks dude. I learned everything I know from this thread and online tutorials. Feels good to give back.



Here's what I use to build oil washes. You can get everything except the glass bottles from dick blick:
  • Oil paint (I use classico brand)
  • Miniral spirit
  • Grumbacher Alkyd medium
  • Glass vials
  • Cork stoppers
  • Glass eye dropper
I make mine by mixing grumbacher alkyd medium, paint, and white spirit at about 1:2:5. The alkyd medium isn't needed, but it helps lower surface tension and clumps pigment in cracks (like an acrylic wash). I store mine in glass bottles with cork caps since white spirit melts/evaporates out of other containers. You can make oil washes on the fly, but with colors like rust (a combination of Indian yellow with flame red) it's not as easy to get consistent results.

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ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Well, drat, that puts my sponge weathered farsight enclave to shame.

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