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Sistergodiva
Jan 3, 2006

I'm like you,
I have no shame.

pugnax posted:

Yeah, probably not a bad idea to try and gently bring it down a bit. What's the style? I've done a kind of half-assed pseudo-pilsner with WL060 and it was really sulphury until I cold crashed it.

Generic pale ale, in which I overshot the carapils greatly.

https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/hopthulhu-v2

My apartment is really badly insulated, it's hot as hell now that we have some good weather. I'm defying my allergies and opening the balcony door and starting a fan. I'm guessing a lot of the heat is from the fermentation. If this doesn't help, is there any other way to cool it?

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Royal W
Jun 20, 2008

Sistergodiva posted:

Generic pale ale, in which I overshot the carapils greatly.

https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/hopthulhu-v2

My apartment is really badly insulated, it's hot as hell now that we have some good weather. I'm defying my allergies and opening the balcony door and starting a fan. I'm guessing a lot of the heat is from the fermentation. If this doesn't help, is there any other way to cool it?

Wrap it up in a wet bath towel and put it in the tub. If you don't plan on using it for awhile, you can put a couple inches of cool water in there too, to keep the cooling going for longer. Evaporative cooling will bring the temp down pretty well.

BLARGHLE
Oct 2, 2013

But I want something good
to die for
To make it beautiful to live.
Yams Fan
Mead makers: Is it normal for mead to not have much/any krausen? It's definitely fermenting, but it's not being very obvious about it. Although, that's probably because it's been so cold in the basement...low 50's right now, which is a little under the recommended temp range for champagne yeast. Hopefully it warms up down here soon, but the forecast isn't looking too good.

Daedalus Esquire
Mar 30, 2008
When I used champaign yeast in a cider I never saw any visible signs of fermentation.

Sistergodiva
Jan 3, 2006

I'm like you,
I have no shame.

Royal W posted:

Wrap it up in a wet bath towel and put it in the tub. If you don't plan on using it for awhile, you can put a couple inches of cool water in there too, to keep the cooling going for longer. Evaporative cooling will bring the temp down pretty well.

No bathtub and old hardwood floors everywhere except the kitchen, which is very sunny. :/ I'll see if I can fix something for it in the bathroom, maybe just put it in the shower with a wet towel on it.

Royal W
Jun 20, 2008

Sistergodiva posted:

No bathtub and old hardwood floors everywhere except the kitchen, which is very sunny. :/ I'll see if I can fix something for it in the bathroom, maybe just put it in the shower with a wet towel on it.

You could put it on a cookie sheet, if you are making a 1 gallon batch. The towel doesn't need to be dripping wet.

Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!

BLARGHLE posted:

Mead makers: Is it normal for mead to not have much/any krausen? It's definitely fermenting, but it's not being very obvious about it. Although, that's probably because it's been so cold in the basement...low 50's right now, which is a little under the recommended temp range for champagne yeast. Hopefully it warms up down here soon, but the forecast isn't looking too good.

Yeah, a lot of the reason fermenting beer has a bunch of foam on top is because of the naturally-occurring gums and stuff that come from the grain. It's the same reason beer has a head when you pour it into a glass. Mead, even when carbonated, doesn't have much head in the glass (it may have a short-lived "mousse") because it doesn't have the same stuff in it - and it's no real surprise that it doesn't have a big krausen in the fermenter. Cider is the same way.

Marshmallow Blue
Apr 25, 2010
Yeah, no krausen, but there should be airlock activity if you have it sealed right.

Thufir
May 19, 2004

"The fucking Mayans were right."

Jo3sh posted:

I would skip the 6-row and go with good lager malt. I did 44% Pilsner malt, 44% American 2-row ale malt, and 11% flaked rice (you could easily use corn, though). I mashed at 150 to keep it crisp. I used Cascade because it was what I had on hand, but any noble hop would work well, too. OG was 1.052, FG 1.009. I also used WLP080.

This cream ale recipe is from a couple pages back but I did basically the same thing last summer but with Willamette and S-05 and it was great. I'm thinking of doing a no-sparge version of it for the brewing in public thing I asked about earlier.

Toxx
Aug 25, 2002

Thufir posted:

This cream ale recipe is from a couple pages back but I did basically the same thing last summer but with Willamette and S-05 and it was great. I'm thinking of doing a no-sparge version of it for the brewing in public thing I asked about earlier.

I'm also in Nashville (Although literally moving in a day or two) I'm just curious what brewery is it that's putting this on?

Thufir
May 19, 2004

"The fucking Mayans were right."

Toxx posted:

I'm also in Nashville (Although literally moving in a day or two) I'm just curious what brewery is it that's putting this on?

Tennessee Brew Works, May 3rd http://www.tennessean.com/story/life/food/2014/04/21/beer-brewers-invited-to-compete/7986223/

BLARGHLE
Oct 2, 2013

But I want something good
to die for
To make it beautiful to live.
Yams Fan
Yeah, after posting that, I remembered that most of my ciders have behaved the same way, unless a bunch of extra stuff had been added to them. Brain fart

Toxx
Aug 25, 2002

Oh that's cool. I liked the beers of theirs I tried.

wing-wing
Jul 27, 2003
You may call me crazy, but only if I get to call you ugly.
Anyone here have a good session APA recipe, a la Founders all-day IPA? I tried my hand at one recently and it turned out a little thin, dry, and unbalanced for my taste. It's not a bad beer, but I'd like it to be a little fuller bodied and/or less bitter. Obvious solutions for next time could include higher mash temp, more crystal malts, and less hops, although that might not be a problem if I increase the body. The color came out nice though, a light orange.

Here's the recipe:
Grain Bill:
5.5 lbs 2-row Marris Otter
2.0 lbs 2-row Belgian Pilsner
0.5 lbs crystal 20

Hops:
14 grams Cascade 6.4AA (Pellet) @60 minutes
14 grams Cascade 6.4AA (Pellet) @45 minutes
14 grams Amarillo 8.7AA (Pellet) @30 minutes
14 grams Amarillo 8.7AA (Pellet) @05 minutes
14 grams Simcoe 12.2AA (Pellet) @05 minutes
30 grams Amarillo 8.7AA (Pellet) Dry-hop for 1 week

Yeast: 1 packet of US-05. No starter.
Other:
2 grams gypsum to mash water
2 grams calcium chloride to mash water

Mash Profile: 148 degrees for 60 minutes

Boil time: 75 minutes
OG: 1.046
FG: 1.008
ABV: ~5.0%

internet celebrity
Jun 23, 2006

College Slice

wing-wing posted:

Anyone here have a good session APA recipe, a la Founders all-day IPA? I tried my hand at one recently and it turned out a little thin, dry, and unbalanced for my taste. It's not a bad beer, but I'd like it to be a little fuller bodied and/or less bitter. Obvious solutions for next time could include higher mash temp, more crystal malts, and less hops, although that might not be a problem if I increase the body. The color came out nice though, a light orange.

Session IPAs are unbalanced by definition so if you're trying to avoid that you're going to have to forget everything you know about grain bills for IPAs. Looking at your recipe I would probably double or even triple the amount of crystal malt you had in there and add some body boosting adjuncts like flaked wheat or flaked barley.

For what it's worth, I made a mild a few months ago that had 18% crystal malt split between 60L and 120L and 12% flaked barley and it was still a bit dry and watery at 3.8% abv.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I've got one I've been tweaking a bit. It's a little bigger than yours, but you could probably scale it without any ill effects. The last version I did was extract:

5.5 gallons into fermenter

3.3 lbs Light LME
1 lb Crystal 20L
3.3 lbs Light LME @15
1 lb Wheat DME @15

2oz Cascade @60
1oz Citra @5
1oz Citra @0
1oz Cascade @0

Dry hopped with 2oz Citra 1oz Cascade.

Fermented with Wyeast 1217 (Green Flash strain) at 64F. Any neutral-ish American strain will do fine.

The next one I'm doing hopefully next weekend is all-grain. My goals are to get a bit more of a malt backbone and some hop flavor rather than just aroma and bitterness. Here's what I've got so far:

7 lbs 2-Row
1 lb Munich Light
1.5 lb Wheat Malt
.5 lb Crystal 20L
.5 lb Crystal 60L

1oz Cascade @60
.5oz Cascade @20
.5oz Citra @20
1oz Citra @5
1oz Cascade @0
1oz Citra @0

Dry hop with 2oz Citra 1oz Cascade, ferment with Yeast Bay Vermont Ale (Conan, the Heady Topper strain)
Aiming for ~mid 50s IBUs, 1.053 OG @75% efficiency.

Mash at 154, single infusion.

If you're trying to make it smaller I'd also reduce the bittering addition and mash higher.

wing-wing
Jul 27, 2003
You may call me crazy, but only if I get to call you ugly.

more falafel please posted:


7 lbs 2-Row
1 lb Munich Light
1.5 lb Wheat Malt
.5 lb Crystal 20L
.5 lb Crystal 60L

1oz Cascade @60
.5oz Cascade @20
.5oz Citra @20
1oz Citra @5
1oz Cascade @0
1oz Citra @0

Dry hop with 2oz Citra 1oz Cascade, ferment with Yeast Bay Vermont Ale (Conan, the Heady Topper strain)
Aiming for ~mid 50s IBUs, 1.053 OG @75% efficiency.

Mash at 154, single infusion.

If you're trying to make it smaller I'd also reduce the bittering addition and mash higher.

Yeah, this recipe looks like it will give more of a backbone than mine right now. The funny thing about the beer I have right now is that it has a calculated 42 IBUs, but it tastes way more bitter than that. It really goes to show that hoppiness/bitterness is highly dependent on context.

internet celebrity posted:

Session IPAs are unbalanced by definition so if you're trying to avoid that you're going to have to forget everything you know about grain bills for IPAs. Looking at your recipe I would probably double or even triple the amount of crystal malt you had in there and add some body boosting adjuncts like flaked wheat or flaked barley.

For what it's worth, I made a mild a few months ago that had 18% crystal malt split between 60L and 120L and 12% flaked barley and it was still a bit dry and watery at 3.8% abv.

I will definitely up the crystal next time. What amazes me about the all-day IPA is that it's a beer with less body, but still really well balanced. That's part of the reason I'm chasing it.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS
I'm still tweaking my session hoppy beer recipe, but I'd agree with the above - specifically increasing crystal and swapping out about 1lb of the pilsner for 1lb wheat. Personally I don't do any hop additions before 20min, and I've been happy with beers that were hopped at flame-out and left to rest for 15 before cooling the wort. If I do the latter, though, I tend to err on the side of less bitterness, and it's a work in progress. It's juicy at the very least.

pugnax
Oct 10, 2012

Specialization is for insects.
Seconding that flaked barley can go a really long way in pumping up the body, although I'm not sure what it would do to the color of a lighter beer. I've always used it in milds, porters, old ales, etc.

Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!

pugnax posted:

Seconding that flaked barley can go a really long way in pumping up the body, although I'm not sure what it would do to the color of a lighter beer. I've always used it in milds, porters, old ales, etc.

It should do virtually nothing to the color of any beer, as I don't think flaked grain contributes noticeable color. When I've used flaked rice (not quite the same thing, but still...) in pale beer (that cream ale), the beer stayed pale.

pugnax
Oct 10, 2012

Specialization is for insects.

Jo3sh posted:

It should do virtually nothing to the color of any beer, as I don't think flaked grain contributes noticeable color. When I've used flaked rice (not quite the same thing, but still...) in pale beer (that cream ale), the beer stayed pale.

Yeah, I should have been more precise - I mostly meant clarity.

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004
I'm doing a session IPA right now as well.

6lb golden LME
.75lb honey
.5lb carapils

3oz of a blend of citra and galaxy dosed out every 5 min thought the boil. 1oz of that blend to dry hop.

West coast American ale yeast.

Should end up around 5% and 80 IBU.

Taking most of this to a 4 day beach camping event that I'm doing next month.

consensual poster
Sep 1, 2009

wing-wing posted:

Anyone here have a good session APA recipe, a la Founders all-day IPA? I tried my hand at one recently and it turned out a little thin, dry, and unbalanced for my taste. It's not a bad beer, but I'd like it to be a little fuller bodied and/or less bitter. Obvious solutions for next time could include higher mash temp, more crystal malts, and less hops, although that might not be a problem if I increase the body. The color came out nice though, a light orange.

Here's the recipe:
Grain Bill:
5.5 lbs 2-row Marris Otter
2.0 lbs 2-row Belgian Pilsner
0.5 lbs crystal 20

Hops:
14 grams Cascade 6.4AA (Pellet) @60 minutes
14 grams Cascade 6.4AA (Pellet) @45 minutes
14 grams Amarillo 8.7AA (Pellet) @30 minutes
14 grams Amarillo 8.7AA (Pellet) @05 minutes
14 grams Simcoe 12.2AA (Pellet) @05 minutes
30 grams Amarillo 8.7AA (Pellet) Dry-hop for 1 week

Yeast: 1 packet of US-05. No starter.
Other:
2 grams gypsum to mash water
2 grams calcium chloride to mash water

Mash Profile: 148 degrees for 60 minutes

Boil time: 75 minutes
OG: 1.046
FG: 1.008
ABV: ~5.0%

The Mad Fermentationist has a good blog about making a session IPA.

He mentions a bunch of possible ways to achieve better balance and mouthfeel: more crystal or dextrine malt, adding unmalted grains like oats or rye, more flavorful base malts, higher mash temp, less carbonation, using yeast that is less attenuative and has some character, no sparge, reducing IBUs compared to an IPA (but not less hops), etc.

My two favorite session IPAs, Fort George Suicide Squeeze and Firestone Walker Easy Jack, have really nice mouthfeel for session beers and use oats. Easy Jack also uses wheat, crystal, carapils, and Munich malts. Suicide Squeeze is fermented with London ESB yeast. Neither comes off as malty, but with so much hops used and so little gravity, they need all the help they can get.

wing-wing
Jul 27, 2003
You may call me crazy, but only if I get to call you ugly.

Perfectly Cromulent posted:

The Mad Fermentationist has a good blog about making a session IPA.

He mentions a bunch of possible ways to achieve better balance and mouthfeel: more crystal or dextrine malt, adding unmalted grains like oats or rye, more flavorful base malts, higher mash temp, less carbonation, using yeast that is less attenuative and has some character, no sparge, reducing IBUs compared to an IPA (but not less hops), etc.

My two favorite session IPAs, Fort George Suicide Squeeze and Firestone Walker Easy Jack, have really nice mouthfeel for session beers and use oats. Easy Jack also uses wheat, crystal, carapils, and Munich malts. Suicide Squeeze is fermented with London ESB yeast. Neither comes off as malty, but with so much hops used and so little gravity, they need all the help they can get.

Thanks. That post by the Mad Fermentationist seems like it was written directly to me.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS
I went through all of my carboys to check airlocks and sample as-needed. My stout is at almost 2 weeks on bourbon soaked oak cubes and when I shared my sample the immediate reply was "wow, vanilla and coffee" (neither of which are in the beer), so I'm likely going to get my cold brew together this weekend and keg next week.

The sours are coming along interestingly:



Raspberry sour (brewed maybe 11/2012, raspberries added last summer, 2nd gen house culture) - super duper mega tart. Big lacto, big raspberry tartness. This is the second sour I brewed, and I'd have held off until this summer for fruit if I knew then what I knew now. I'm also thinking that I want to give sacc a bigger head start for my next year of sour brewing. I'm not getting off flavors, per se, but it still needs to mellow.


Rye Sour (brewed 9/2013, 3rd gen culture) - this is amazing right now. I'm so tempted to bottle it, but previous experience tells me that it's probably not done (and I think that I want to put at least some of it on fruit once it's warmed up outside). This was 33% rye malt, 8% flaked oats, 8% flaked rye, 8% flaked wheat, then Pilsen/wheat/pale malts to finish out the grain bill. It's got a lot of complexity, but no lack of sourness. The funk almost seems refined, if that makes sense. It's not really challenging to drink (except maybe for the level of sourness), but there's a lot going on.

Marshmallow Blue
Apr 25, 2010
Lot's of bottling to do this weekend. I'm not sure I even have enough bottles to go around!

1 Gallon Blackberry Mead
2 Gallons Saison Mead
1 Gallon Vanilla Hydromel
3 Gallons 60 Minute IPA

I may have to let the vanilla sit longer just because of a lack of bottles.

Harminoff
Oct 24, 2005

👽
Was making this recipe with a friend


Extract:
3 x 3.3lbs Pilsner Light malt extract LME
1 x 1lbs Amber DME
1 x 1.5lbs Belgian Candy
12.4 total pounds of fermentables

Hops: (IBU came out at 23 but you can range from 20 to 25)
2 oz. German Hallertau 3.8%AA 60min
1 oz. Styrian Goldings 3.4% AA 30min
1 oz. Saaz 2.8% AA 3min

Yeast:
2 x WLP500 Trappist Ale Yeast



He added the saax and goldings both at 30 by accident. At this point would it be best to dryhop some saaz or something else? How many oz should we use to dryhop?

Bobsledboy
Jan 10, 2007

burning airlines give you so much more

Harminoff posted:

He added the saax and goldings both at 30 by accident. At this point would it be best to dryhop some saaz or something else? How many oz should we use to dryhop?
It will taste fine with both at 30, maybe a little more bitter than you were expecting. I wouldn't worry about adding any extra hops if it was me.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
So I finished making a mash tun and did my first all grain this week, a London Porter kit, everything seemed to go pretty good. When I bought the kit I also bought a bunch of bulk ingredients for a few different brews. They only had centennial hops in 1lb packs so I have a tonne of centennial, I figure I'll try making a single hop centennial IPA or double IPA. Here's what I came up with in Beersmith, any critiques or recommendations for a centennial single hop??? I basically just took another IPA recipe I had and upped all the malts and added centennial everywhere.

15lbs 2 Row Malt [93.2%]
8oz Crystal 60L [3.5%]
8oz Victory Malt [3.1%]
.5oz Black Malt [0.2%]

1oz Centennial Mash
1oz Centennial First Wort
1oz Centennial Boil 60min
1.5oz Centennial Coil 10min
1oz Centennial Boil 5min
2oz Centennial Dry Hop

Yeast: Safale S-05

Estimated OG: 1.080
Estimated FG: 1.021
Estimated IBUS: 93.8
Color: 10.5srm
Estimated ABV: 7.8%

Fluo
May 25, 2007

Brewday was called off today since I woke up late, so finally got around to making my wine:

5 UK Gallons (22.7 liters)
5kg Sugar
2kg Rhubarb
2kg Summer Fruits (Black Sweet Cherries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Cranberries, Blackcurrents)
1.8k Medium Dry White Grape Juice Concentrate
100grams Rose Petals
WYeast4021 - Dry White / Sparkling (formerly Pasteur Champagne™)
(And yeast nutrients, pectinase and wine tannins)

Not checked the OG yet as still working on some bits, it was pretty much a kitchen stink wine of what I had on hand or in the garden. Never made wine before so bit worried it will turn out awful or its too watery, will have to wait till I get the OG I guess. 7 days on the 'must' right then transfer to secondary and leave for 6months? (I don't know how many people here make wine :x).

Edit: OG 1.090

Fluo fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Apr 26, 2014

Jo3sh
Oct 19, 2002

Like all girls I love unicorns!
Thanks, all, for your assistance in choosing a lager yeast a few weeks ago. I've got it on diacetyl rest now, and it seems quite nice. I had a bit of bother getting hold of 34/70 (no one around here carries it, so I had to order it from morebeer, and even they were on backorder), but it seems very promising. I'll cold crash in a couple days, and then put it in kegs to lager until summer.

Fluo
May 25, 2007

Jo3sh posted:

Thanks, all, for your assistance in choosing a lager yeast a few weeks ago. I've got it on diacetyl rest now, and it seems quite nice. I had a bit of bother getting hold of 34/70 (no one around here carries it, so I had to order it from morebeer, and even they were on backorder), but it seems very promising. I'll cold crash in a couple days, and then put it in kegs to lager until summer.

Awesome! Love to see finished product photo in the summer! :D

LaserWash
Jun 28, 2006
Give me a good recipe and idea on how I do a strawberry sour. I think I'm going to take the plunge and buy ingredients this week. Thinking of using frozen, cut strawberries for the flavoring, since I can get some real cheap at Sam's Club (or if there is something better that I should be doing, let me know).

If that isn't a "go" a cherry sour would work too.

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer
I read a quote about Stone's "Enjoy By IPA"

quote:

As you can clearly tell, this beer was super hoppy even before we dry-hopped it, but then we went for it...dry-hopping with one pound per barrel EACH of New Zealand Nelson Sauvin and Australian Galaxy.

That works out to just over 5 ounces per 5 gallon batch. I've been dry hopping at 1-2oz per gallon batch, which is what I usually see in recipes. Should I be going much much higher? I have a 1.056 OG Pale Ale I brewed Saturday that was planning to get 1oz of Simcoe, but I'm thinking of jacking that way up.

bewbies
Sep 23, 2003

Fun Shoe
Brewed an APA last Sunday. Yeast was S-04, and it was done fermenting (at 62) in about 48 hours. On Thursday, I went ahead and moved to secondary and threw in dry hops. On Sunday, I cranked down the temp for cold crash. My plan is to leave it at 33 until next weekend, then keg.

Questions:

1. Should I have left it in primary for longer than 4 days?
2. When in secondary, how long should I leave it at fermentation temp versus cold conditioning temp? Does this change with dry hopping or anything?
3. How long should I wait with this style before tapping?

fullroundaction
Apr 20, 2007

Drink beer every day

CapnBry posted:

I read a quote about Stone's "Enjoy By IPA"


That works out to just over 5 ounces per 5 gallon batch. I've been dry hopping at 1-2oz per gallon batch, which is what I usually see in recipes. Should I be going much much higher? I have a 1.056 OG Pale Ale I brewed Saturday that was planning to get 1oz of Simcoe, but I'm thinking of jacking that way up.

In the book "Hops" they interview a ton of brewers and the TLDR is you hit hard diminished returns after 2-2.5oz per 5gal batch. I've done a lot of experimenting and that seems to be more or less true, but I've never tried to hit the extreme end of things like Enjoy By does.

My girlfriend recently made the hoppiest IPA that's ever come out of our house (by orders of magnitude) and it was all thanks to about 6oz of hops in the last 10 minutes of the boil. It was so hoppy and dank it didn't even need dryhopping, which totally surprised me as I've never been a believer in hopbursting over just dryhopping.

Jacobey000
Jul 17, 2005

We will be cruising at a speed of 55mph swiftly away from the twisted wreckage of my shattered life!

LaserWash posted:

Give me a good recipe and idea on how I do a strawberry sour. I think I'm going to take the plunge and buy ingredients this week. Thinking of using frozen, cut strawberries for the flavoring, since I can get some real cheap at Sam's Club (or if there is something better that I should be doing, let me know).

If that isn't a "go" a cherry sour would work too.

Strawberries are almost ALWAYS way too delicate of a flavor to last or live in beer. I think you've got to do something like AT LEAST 2-3#/gal as opposed to 1-2#/gal for cherries (for A LOT of cherry flavor). If you are really keen on strawberry, and the 2-3+# don't get you where you want to be, you can always add extract at bottling.

If it were me, I'd brew a standard sasion grain bill and use wl670 (American Farmhouse) and add fresh or frozen pie (sour) cherries after fermentation/in secondary, throw them in whole (with seeds, as they add their own flavor) and let it sit for a couple of months before bottling. It'd be nicely sour, have some funk, a nice cherry flavor and be wonderfully quenchable.

Hoenstly though, if you want to use strawberries? Don't let me stop you.

BLARGHLE
Oct 2, 2013

But I want something good
to die for
To make it beautiful to live.
Yams Fan

Jacobey000 posted:

Strawberries are almost ALWAYS way too delicate of a flavor to last or live in beer. I think you've got to do something like AT LEAST 2-3#/gal as opposed to 1-2#/gal for cherries (for A LOT of cherry flavor). If you are really keen on strawberry, and the 2-3+# don't get you where you want to be, you can always add extract at bottling.

If it were me, I'd brew a standard sasion grain bill and use wl670 (American Farmhouse) and add fresh or frozen pie (sour) cherries after fermentation/in secondary, throw them in whole (with seeds, as they add their own flavor) and let it sit for a couple of months before bottling. It'd be nicely sour, have some funk, a nice cherry flavor and be wonderfully quenchable.

Hoenstly though, if you want to use strawberries? Don't let me stop you.

On a related note, how does mixing a couple industrial-sized cans of cherry pie filling with some water sound for a cherry wine? Costco has them for pretty cheap, and that seems like an easy place to start that isn't just buying juice concentrate or a kit.

I guess I should check to make sure they're not full of preservatives next time I'm in there...

Cpt.Wacky
Apr 17, 2005

DontAskKant posted:

Has anyone done a small beer with second runnings with BIAB?

I did one this weekend with a 10 gallon belgian wit batch and a second 5 gallon batch. I didn't do a mash out for the wit and didn't squeeze the bag much at all. I had more evaporation than expected and still ended up with an OG 8-10 points lower than I expected. I didn't double-crush the grain this time so that could have contributed too.

For the small beer I just set the grain bag aside in a bucket until we finished the first beer. Put the bag back in the kettle with 6 gallons of water and started heating. Pulled the bag out and squeezed it at 170 and proceeded as usual. I didn't get as much evaporation as expected with the second beer and ended up closer to 5.5 gallons.

I don't have my notes in front of me but I think the wit came out around 1.060 and the "small" beer was just under 1.040.

My brewing partner "designed" the small beer. The leftover wit grains (roughly half pilsner/half wheat and a little oats and munich), then added 1.5 pounds smoked rauch malt for steeping. 1 oz of homegrown whole leaf Cascade at 30 minutes and at 5 minutes he added the zest of an orange, 3 cloves and a tablespoon of whole white peppercorns. I've got another 2 oz of the cascade for a dry hop but I'm not sure how much I want to put in yet. Tentative name is "Read it and Wheat"

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zedprime
Jun 9, 2007

yospos
Has anyone tried serving beer on muddled strawberries or strawberry juice? I feel like we don't make nearly enough beer mixers as a society and strawberries seem like a gimme since most complaints are strawberry flavor falls out of beer within the week.

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