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Really? I generally set up my 225/45-15 RS3's at like 28 cold and then dont touch them all day. They get pretty high when they get hot, like 38+ probably. I never had an issue with how they work and I seem to get the right amount of rollover. Should I be bleeding off after the first session?
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May 1, 2014 05:22
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How would you know that it is or isn't working if you have no data?
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May 1, 2014 05:23
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aventari posted:Really? I generally set up my 225/45-15 RS3's at like 28 cold and then dont touch them all day. Saying "this tire likes xx psi" is only a general gauge, a 60 ratio tire is going to need way more psi to keep sidewall flex down vs. something with a 30 ratio. Using a pyrometer to gauge tire temps is a better way of determining ideal psi.
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May 1, 2014 05:54
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Temps are also really helpful for suspension and alignment adjustments.
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May 1, 2014 05:56
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jamal posted:Temps are also really helpful for suspension and alignment adjustments. I think that really helped set what baselines for pressures and alignments on the Charade, and that thing set some blistering lap times with ~110hp.
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May 1, 2014 16:59
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My transmission went boom :-(. By boom I mean 4th gear appears to have disintegrated. I'll see if I can get the tranny rebuilder to take damage porn pics. That's what I get for using an Evo 6-speed for 30 minute sessions with only 30 minute cooldowns between sessions. Oh well. Going to have a stronger gear set installed. I'll avoid 30 minute sessions until I get a tranny cooler. Also, rotors are crazing pretty badly. Think before I up the power (running low boost right now) and traction, i need to get my ducting/cooling sorted.
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May 1, 2014 18:53
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Some of the Sheep posted:I have the same issue with the ears. It's easily fixed with a balaclava. This also helps alleviate sweating issues too - your helmet won't start to stink over time and the balaclava can just go straight in the wash. I actually assumed everyone wore nomex balaclavas anyway! But you're right, more than one balaclava is a good idea if you're doing multiple stints in a race.
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May 1, 2014 19:51
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Phone posted:How would you know that it is or isn't working if you have no data? Because I drive it and know how it feels, also lap times, also rollover, also feeling temps with my hand, also tire wear patterns.
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May 2, 2014 08:13
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XP8s should be fine for a 1200kg ish car right? Or they should at least be better than a mix of DS2500s upfront and 4 year old carbotechs on the rear. Still after two trackdays i'm not noticing any fade, even though between the two events one caliper managed to stick which got hastily replaced. Mind you the pedal went wicked long at the end it still didnt feel like i'd lost any retardation.
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May 2, 2014 11:03
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aventari posted:also feeling temps with my hand I lol'd IRL
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May 2, 2014 19:44
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I've checked brake temps with my arm. Not pleasant.
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May 2, 2014 19:58
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jamal posted:I've checked brake temps with my arm. Not pleasant. Head mechanic for a winning 25 Hours of Thunderhill team here. Nothing is hotter than used brake pads. Mechanix makes kevlar-sleeved, leather-palmed gloves that will let you pick up a 600*F brake rotor without too much trouble, but you never touch hot brake pads with anything except a screwdriver.
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May 2, 2014 20:09
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I remember doing tire changes in the rain on a Chumpcar and having the lug nuts steaming in my glove.
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May 2, 2014 22:50
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smelly cabin filter posted:XP8s should be fine for a 1200kg ish car right? Or they should at least be better than a mix of DS2500s upfront and 4 year old carbotechs on the rear. Still after two trackdays i'm not noticing any fade, even though between the two events one caliper managed to stick which got hastily replaced. Enough if you're using them on streets. My brother uses them on his Rx-8.
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May 2, 2014 23:36
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aventari posted:feeling temps with my hand Do you do this while on pcp or what?  Even changing a wheel after a cooldown lap, without gloves, that poo poo's still hot hot hot.
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May 3, 2014 00:43
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Looking at track tires for my e46 and have been gravitating towards the Nitto NT01 in 255/40/17 square setup on my 330ci. Any thought on this or is there a better setup for a first time r-comp tire? I am looking for good heat cycle life which the NT01s seem to deliver as these will be used for HDPEs for the rest of the year.
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May 3, 2014 05:58
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Maxxis RC-1?
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May 3, 2014 06:06
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nm posted:Enough if you're using them on streets. My brother uses them on his Rx-8. I am currently, would they cope with something like an AD08R or an R1R?
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May 3, 2014 10:23
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smelly cabin filter posted:I am currently, would they cope with something like an AD08R or an R1R? Those aren't r-comps. My brother used them with star specs and RS-3s, which are similar. With real r-comps (R6s and the like), carbotech recommends going up a step generally.
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May 3, 2014 19:15
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Phone posted:Maxxis RC-1? Though I have no personal experience with r-comps, my last instructor recently switched to these from the NT01 on his 350Z and said he liked them.
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May 4, 2014 03:14
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RC1s seem to be the "new" hyped cheapish tire. I like my nt01s, and if you're in the states you can get them for pennies. Discount tire direct has them for cheap.
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May 4, 2014 13:38
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Track day cut short again by another valve stem busting a leak. Wtf? What is causing this?
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May 4, 2014 23:11
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Track day cut short again by another valve stem busting a leak. Wtf? What is causing this? Not using metal valve stems? What are people using for logging these days?
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May 5, 2014 00:51
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Real or smartphone? I switched from Trackmaster to RaceChrono and I've been happy with it. I'm looking at the AiM SoloDL in the future.
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May 5, 2014 00:55
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FatCow posted:I remember doing tire changes in the rain on a Chumpcar and having the lug nuts steaming in my glove. The kevlar/leather gloves are a little scary sometimes. They are very snug-fitting, and if you start to feel heat through them, it's because the glove is already hot enough to burn you and the heat just hasn't penetrated fully yet. It's fun to try and take them off before they start to actually hurt you. 
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May 5, 2014 00:56
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Phone posted:Real or smartphone? Real. My smartphone is pretty dumb. The SoloDL looks pretty awesome. Something linked with a camera would be even cooler, but those all seem to cost $$$$. Edit: Apparently you can hook one up. Awesome. nm fucked around with this message at 01:04 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 00:56
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nm posted:Not using metal valve stems? I didn't know those were a thing  Where do you get metal valve stems? Longpig Bard fucked around with this message at 16:44 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 01:00
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Dude at America's Tire says they don't have any because my TPMS won't accept the better ones. Maybe I'll get rid of those sensors...
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May 5, 2014 17:42
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Anybody have any experience with Endless MX72s?
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May 5, 2014 22:30
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nm posted:Real. My smartphone is pretty dumb. I have the Solo. I can confirm it's awesome and works about 1000000x better than a smartphone app. Reliable, detailed data 100% of the time.
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May 6, 2014 03:09
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SlapActionJackson posted:I have the Solo. I can confirm it's awesome and works about 1000000x better than a smartphone app. Reliable, detailed data 100% of the time. I loving hate the analysis software though. It's just....impenetrable
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May 6, 2014 04:00
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Eh, I'm used to impenetrable analysis software from work. It definitely helps to have someone knowledgeable show you the basics, but if you spend some time screwing around with real data, it begins to make sense.
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May 6, 2014 04:22
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Dude at America's Tire says they don't have any because my TPMS won't accept the better ones. Maybe I'll get rid of those sensors... I sell tire supplies to shops and most of our aftermarket tpms solutions have rubber or metal stem options. The problem with the rubber ones is at high speeds there is too much force being put on the stem itself from the sensor. High speed applications should always use a metal bolted on valve stem, tpms or not.
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May 6, 2014 19:33
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I bounced between the Traqmate and the Aim Solo. I ended up with the Traqmate mainly because of the software and camera control. It makes doing video overlays super easy and will automatically start recording video when it starts recording data. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3xntwthB_I
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May 7, 2014 00:32
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Modus Man posted:I sell tire supplies to shops and most of our aftermarket tpms solutions have rubber or metal stem options. The problem with the rubber ones is at high speeds there is too much force being put on the stem itself from the sensor. High speed applications should always use a metal bolted on valve stem, tpms or not. Is this what I'm looking for? http://www.americanmuscle.com/tpms-fullkit-2010.html Or just ask them if they have metal clamp-in stems and lose the TPMS for many bucks cheaper?
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May 7, 2014 04:49
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Is this what I'm looking for? I'm not familiar with that brand but that is the correct type of valve stem, metal and it bolts on. If you don't mind the tpms dash light you can use something like a TV575HP or a H523MS valve stem. Sorry I don't have links for you I'm on my phone. There are many manufacturers and different styles of metal valve stems that will all work, those are just 2 examples.
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May 7, 2014 18:20
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I've got an HPDE coming up at the end of May with my Z4. This will be my fourth HPDE, and third with this car. I just called a reputable shop to schedule an alignment, and also asked them to do a tech inspection. I did this for a couple reasons. One, I haven't had an alignment for the car ever; I bought it in early 2012, so I have no idea where the alignment is at. Two, it was in a pretty bad accident while parked in March 2012, and I'd like another shop to double-check the repair work that was done back then, plus one of the track days requires a tech inspection anyway. And finally, I think I'd like a slightly more aggressive alignment for the 2-4 track days I expect to do this year and in the coming years. I expect the shop will be able to give me some advice specific to the car, but just so I'm not going in completely clueless, does anyone have broad advice for a mostly-street-but-also-track alignment? Based off this short page, I expect I'm looking around -1 or -2 degrees camber and 0 toe on all four corners. Does this sound about right? Anything else I should have them do for the suspension or inspection while they've got it? I'm doing oil, brake fluid, and coolant myself this month, and I've already got a set of track pads and rotors. Am I wasting my money on the alignment (around $150), and should just have them do the inspection (around $50 alone or free with the alignment)?
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May 7, 2014 22:06
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Make sure the shop knows about removing the alignment pins up front to get extra camber. Don't run 0 rear toe on a BMW. I suggest 1/8" total toe in on the rear, zero in the front. If you're OK with zero front toe on the street, run as much negative front camber as you can reasonably get. You'll probably hit -2 in the front if you're lucky. BMWs front suspension really favours lots of static negative camber to counteract camber loss during roll. For the rear I'd probably shoot for -1 to -1.5. I'm not super familar with Z4 alignments, I'm basing these of my knowledge of e36 suspension. Your best bet would be to google "Z4 track alignment" and do some reading.
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May 7, 2014 22:41
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Dropped my personal best by 1.256 seconds at the roval. I think mostly due to higher speed in the oval portion, for some reason I was going too drat slow in the turns, shouldn't get below 40 and I was nearing 30. We'll see in August what some camber bolts do for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bauwU0whvis
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May 8, 2014 19:23
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Dropped my personal best by 1.256 seconds at the roval. I think mostly due to higher speed in the oval portion, for some reason I was going too drat slow in the turns, shouldn't get below 40 and I was nearing 30. We'll see in August what some camber bolts do for me. Your steering is smooth and deliberate but a bit slow for tighter stuff. Tire grip vs. weight transfer plateaus at the edge of grip so you want to turn in a really tiny amount to get weight transfer started a fraction of a second before you would normally turn in. So basically it would be like giving a wee bit of turn in at ~1:09.5 in you lap and then doing full turn in at 1:10s instead of just turning in at 1:10. Long autocrosses (big stadiums/airfields) are a good place to learn about bossing the front around without upsetting the rear in the tighter stuff 
Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 02:27 on May 9, 2014 |
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May 9, 2014 02:06
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