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Does anyone have any tips for painting a scar on someone, particularly their flesh?
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May 8, 2014 00:38
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Tuxedo Jack posted:Popping in one more time to ask the same question, if no one responds, I'll assume no one has an answer. I remember someone doing bases and such with quartz crystal that might give you an effect similar to what you want. But then there's actually finding it, and the possible side effects from smashing rocks with a hammer till they're the size you want.
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May 8, 2014 01:24
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Hi folks! I've been out of the hobby for a couple years while I finished school and got a job, but I decided now was the time to get back into modeling and painting (before the next inevitable GW price increase). This thread has been a real boon for me while I relearn my painting skills and rebuild my army. I wasn't very good or very patient when I last tried painting, and I basically committed most of my old Marines to the Super Clean soak. Great stuff, by the by. In the meantime, here's two of the WIP Tactical Squad I've spent most of the last month painting (awful cell phone cam ahead): I don't know or care how much time I'm putting into these ten dudes; for me, my motivation is having something I can do to take my mind off work. Fortunately, with all the minis I have left to scour and repaint, I shouldn't have to drop cash on a new model for quite some time. Also I have way the hell more jump-pack Assault troops than any Salamanders player has any business owning, Jesus Christ.
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May 8, 2014 01:50
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Tuxedo Jack posted:Popping in one more time to ask the same question, if no one responds, I'll assume no one has an answer. Woodland Scenics has a video that might help. Check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWKuKOd7Npw (Ice stuff starts at about 5:10)
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May 8, 2014 01:59
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TyrantSabre posted:Hi folks! I've been out of the hobby for a couple years while I finished school and got a job, but I decided now was the time to get back into modeling and painting (before the next inevitable GW price increase). This thread has been a real boon for me while I relearn my painting skills and rebuild my army. I wasn't very good or very patient when I last tried painting, and I basically committed most of my old Marines to the Super Clean soak. Great stuff, by the by. In the meantime, here's two of the WIP Tactical Squad I've spent most of the last month painting (awful cell phone cam ahead): Paint the ASM red and now you have Blood Angels allies. I'm pretty sure that's the first time anybody has ever said "Blood Angels allies" ever.
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May 8, 2014 02:00
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jadebullet posted:Does anyone have any tips for painting a scar on someone, particularly their flesh? Use the same progression of tones you use for the normal skin only stop about one or two steps before you do normally. So if you do like, for instance: Dark Brown base, Suntan Flesh, Suntan Flesh+Maiden Flesh, Maiden Flesh+Suntan Flesh, Maiden Flesh. As your normal progression then stop at Maidenflesh+Suntan Flesh. Also mix in either a little bit of maroon or purple into your colors. An easier method is also to paint the scar super duper over highlighted with really bright highs and dark lows and then wash with a red wash (GW's Carroburg Crimson for example). This is of course for Caucasian skin, anything else you'll need to change it up a bit. Darker skinned people tend to scar pink or really dark brown (depending on the age of the scar) and asian people are all over the map depending on where the person is from (Koreans will be pretty much the same as a random American but a Cambodian or Thai person would be different).
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May 8, 2014 02:01
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AndyElusive posted:WIP Catacomb Command Barge with a magnetized Anraykr the Traveller. I have edge highlighting and decals left and I haven't even painted the teslas yet for when I want it to run it as an Annihilation Barge.,, He looks right at home on that Barge and that is an understatement.
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May 8, 2014 03:01
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Yay or nay? Want dreads, but i like scratch building. So I thought I'd try playing with the scale of dreads to be more in line with the art, not sure if I went overboard or not. drat things dedicatedly turned out wider than I'd envisioned, and now the cleaning up phase is starting. I also don't have one for reference so I've been going by comparing sizes on a screen so go figure the sizes are a little wonky. Somewhere on the Daemon world Nehctik Retnuoc, unknown dreadnaught heard screaming "GO GET'EM LIL BUDDIES"
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May 8, 2014 07:16
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My first reaction was that they're far too large, but that was wrong. Mangle a Space Marine into a ball, toss him into an armored hull. Add more size because there is emprah knows how much machinery inside to keep Gimp Marine alive. Add more for the power plant, wiring harness, servos, internal frame, then still more for ablative armor, nominal life support (different than gimp-life-support), then add cooling systems and insulation. Yeah, that's the right size. The 40k rules are sadly underwhelming for vehicles that are this size, since they're underpowered leaving the player with a gigantic target, but gently caress that. You just saved about $80 and have awesome looking dreads. How do you plant to base and detail them?
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May 8, 2014 09:44
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I feel like most vehicles in 40k are scaled down on purpose to help keep the tabletop manageable. Rhinos would not be able to hold 10 marines as an example but they don't want to clutter the board in giant LOSight blocking bricks who can't maneuver on a table with appropriate terrain. Dreads probably have similar scaling happening. Their stubby legs and maneuverability issues seem less problematic when they are that size. Don't need as much agility in CC when your king kong. Those guys must have been quite a lot of work, the proportions are spot on from the looks of it. Do you plan to cut more plasticard and add chaos trim of boarders and arrows? I wouldn't blame you if you didn't want to but since you made two of these monsters I suspect you actually like the activity.
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May 8, 2014 10:25
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will blow your mind.
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Use the same progression of tones you use for the normal skin only stop about one or two steps before you do normally. So if you do like, for instance: Dark Brown base, Suntan Flesh, Suntan Flesh+Maiden Flesh, Maiden Flesh+Suntan Flesh, Maiden Flesh. As your normal progression then stop at Maidenflesh+Suntan Flesh. Also mix in either a little bit of maroon or purple into your colors. Thanks. Looks like I will need to pick up some purple paint since the closest thing I have to maroon is an old pot of Scab Red. This particular model will be Caucasian but I really don't have much in the way of a method for making skin tones yet. (I painted marines before this, and tau before this so I didn't get much practice with skin tones so my IG army is going to be a new challenge) My goal is to make my army more realistic by varying the different shades of skin color since I highly doubt that in the 41st millenium, every single person is a homogeneous skin color. A quick follow up question though. What is a good paint progression, preferably citadel, for painting black skin, particularly some of the lighter shades of black skin, as well as the really dark shades. Edit: also, does anyone have any tips for how to paint stubbley hair on a bald head? Like how the old Kasrkin sergeant has where you can see where his hair was since it is starting to grow in slightly. jadebullet fucked around with this message at 13:18 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 12:29
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jadebullet posted:A quick follow up question though. What is a good paint progression, preferably citadel, for painting black skin, particularly some of the lighter shades of black skin, as well as the really dark shades. quote:Edit: also, does anyone have any tips for how to paint stubbley hair on a bald head? Like how the old Kasrkin sergeant has where you can see where his hair was since it is starting to grow in slightly.
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May 8, 2014 13:30
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Twiz posted:Woodland Scenics has a video that might help. Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. I think his icicle technique could be exactly what I'm looking for to create some small areas of ice buildup on the tops of my Leman Russes.
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May 8, 2014 13:47
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Thanks Pierzak. I just have one more question, what do you mean when you say make a glaze? Is that watering it down a lot, or is it just the act of mixing it with a bit of the grey?
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May 8, 2014 13:56
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Dreads probably have similar scaling happening. Their stubby legs and maneuverability issues seem less problematic when they are that size. Don't need as much agility in CC when your king kong. Contemptor Dreds look so much better IMO. The slightly more humanoid proportions make them look like they can actually move at a reasonable speed without falling over.
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May 8, 2014 15:00
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Had a bunch of free time yesterday and hammered out a Dire Mauler/Bomber. Still need to do the eyes and the two sets of hands, but I am happy and surprised I was able to get that much done with him in one day. 
Slandible fucked around with this message at 15:23 on May 8, 2014 |
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May 8, 2014 15:19
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Post 9-11 User posted:Add more for the power plant, wiring harness, servos, internal frame, then still more for ablative armor, nominal life support (different than gimp-life-support), then add cooling systems and insulation... See, that's what I thought, I mostly went by how big the "coffin" on the front was, and then out from there. The official ones from what I remember seemed way too small to hold anyone unless you've stuffed what's left of half his torso into the thing and left the 'extra bits' out. Plus unless I felt like ordering more from the magical land of china, hosed if I'm paying 60+ cad for a dread that to me feels way too tiny to justify that sorta price. Material cost so far has been about 20, a pack of 1mm sheet, various tubes for pistons/barrels, and a glue bottle. WhiteOutMouse posted:Those guys must have been quite a lot of work, the proportions are spot on from the looks of it. Do you plan to cut more plasticard and add chaos trim of boarders and arrows? I wouldn't blame you if you didn't want to but since you made two of these monsters I suspect you actually like the activity. It's a lot of comparing sizes and measuring down to the mm, but thankfully they're mostly composed of boxes. So if you can glue together a fairly even box, you too can make your own dread! Anything angled gets more difficult pretty quick to keep even on both sides, but for the most part it was just cutting several parts at once so it's consistent and looks like it's proper. I'll be adding some more trim and arrows, I'm just running low on vehicle bits after finishing off that tank last month so need to figure out what to do there. For basing I'm considering trying to find some city fight buliding to tear apart and include (also to use on some wraithguard/lord/knight bases}, the base would be on a 1/4" thick mdf circle I cut out for both of them, oversized since the 60mm bases are way too small. The rules for dreads are still kind of poo poo, but least now they have HP, think back to when the fuckers could [and did] explode constantly from a single hit. I just proxied in khador jacks since the spriggan and devastator look pretty chaosy. Thanks though for the feedback, I was worried they looked a bit "off", last night was the first time I was able to fully dry fit everything together.
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May 8, 2014 20:13
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I swear I feel like I should put down a basecoat before I clean my minis because I never see this poo poo until I'm painting already
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May 8, 2014 20:17
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Khorne Flakes posted:Had a bunch of free time yesterday and hammered out a Dire Mauler/Bomber. Still need to do the eyes and the two sets of hands, but I am happy and surprised I was able to get that much done with him in one day. He looks rad and that's great for one day, be proud of yourself! 
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May 8, 2014 20:35
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signalnoise posted:I swear I feel like I should put down a basecoat before I clean my minis because I never see this poo poo until I'm painting already 
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May 8, 2014 21:03
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jadebullet posted:Thanks Pierzak. I just have one more question, what do you mean when you say make a glaze? Is that watering it down a lot, or is it just the act of mixing it with a bit of the grey?
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May 8, 2014 23:05
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berzerkmonkey posted:Isn't that a bitch? I primed around 150 Zombicide zombies then realized that the mold lines were way more prominent than I realized. On the bright side, it's a lot easier to strip a model if it was only primed a few days ago... Honestly at this point I just don't worry if I have to finish scraping down a stray mold line after the primer coat. It might come back to bite me in the rear end someday but it hasn't so far.
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May 8, 2014 23:22
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New Trollblood mandollies: Horgle Ironstrike  Pyre Troll  More pics here if you're interested.
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May 9, 2014 03:24
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Fyrbrand posted:Pyre Troll In the Timg this looks like a troll cheerleader with pom-poms..... "2-4-6-8-who shall we eviscerate!"
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May 9, 2014 07:59
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Cross post from the Infinity thread. I'm really pleased how these turned out for such a super quick paint job. At first glance they looked incredibly intimidating being so slim and willowy but stacked with detail. In the end I airbrushed Foundry Moss over the entire lot, washed liberally with Agrax Earthshade, rehighlighted quickly then detailed.
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May 9, 2014 09:19
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JerryLee posted:Honestly at this point I just don't worry if I have to finish scraping down a stray mold line after the primer coat. It might come back to bite me in the rear end someday but it hasn't so far. Usually, you can get away with scraping them down and just putting a bit of paint over the scraped area with no problem. With Zombicide, the mold lines weren't really that noticeable until I primed, and at that point they looked pretty bad. I would have spent just as much time repriming the parts I scraped as I would stripping, scraping, and repriming.
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May 9, 2014 13:44
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Grey Hunter posted:In the Timg this looks like a troll cheerleader with pom-poms..... It could maybe do with a little more white in the centre of the hands, and definitely some more OSL.
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May 9, 2014 18:39
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I can't handle this anymore, I've spilled my fourth, fourth, loving pot of crimson wash. I'm going to start having to glue them down to oval bases or something, this is ridiculous.  :v Oh man, I'm so glad I was wearing "around the house" trousers, this has convinced me to wear nothing but cheap rags while painting. ijyt fucked around with this message at 01:33 on May 10, 2014 |
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May 10, 2014 01:25
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ijyt posted:I can't handle this anymore, I've spilled my fourth, fourth, loving pot of crimson wash. I'm going to start having to glue them down to oval bases or something, this is ridiculous. I think I've ruined about four pairs of jeans 
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May 10, 2014 01:31
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ijyt posted:I can't handle this anymore, I've spilled my fourth, fourth, loving pot of crimson wash. I'm going to start having to glue them down to oval bases or something, this is ridiculous. I have done this with just Nuln Oil at least three times. I also paint at my computer, so whenever it happens, it runs down the top of the desk and into the cracks of my keyboard. It has only happened with that one wash though, no other paint of wash has done this to me.
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May 10, 2014 02:05
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Serotonin posted:Cross post from the Infinity thread. These are awesome. I'm also getting heavy Van Saar vibes from the dude on the far right.
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May 10, 2014 02:28
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Weirdo posted:I think I've ruined about four pairs of jeans They aren't ruined they're just "painting jeans" now.
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May 10, 2014 02:57
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Fair enough, it was time to do some shopping anyway.
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May 10, 2014 03:03
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Crossposting from the 40k thread. Well, I have finished painting up my fiance's 40k related present to me, a Kasrkin Sergeant. There was only one stipulation, and that is that he had to be named Sgt Blinky and had to have only one eye, so taking my fiance up on that challenge, I spent several hours watching videos on how to paint faces and I have to say that I am pretty happy wiht the look. Also, I forgot how much I hate pewter models, the paint rubs off of them so easily. Also I drilled the sword into my thumb while painting. Let me know what you guys think.    Edit: Man, close ups really show off the errors more than the naked eye.  
jadebullet fucked around with this message at 03:53 on May 10, 2014 |
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May 10, 2014 03:21
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Khorne Flakes posted:I have done this with just Nuln Oil at least three times. I also paint at my computer, so whenever it happens, it runs down the top of the desk and into the cracks of my keyboard. It has only happened with that one wash though, no other paint of wash has done this to me. Magnetize the bottles. Glue a washer to the bottom and get a plastic magnet strip nailed to a board. Strong enough not get knocked over accidentally. Or just not be clumsy.
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May 10, 2014 03:41
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I went a bit stupid this week and bought quite a bit of new models for my Trollbloods. I've got quite a bit in my paint queue now, but just about finished this guy up tonight doing the hands. Bombs ahoy!     Edit>> Ya some mode lines. loving PP's plastics. LingcodKilla posted:Or just not be clumsy. Impossible. Slandible fucked around with this message at 04:32 on May 10, 2014 |
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May 10, 2014 04:09
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The correct solution is to transfer the poo poo to dropper bottles, you'll lose less in the process of transfer and drop waste than you will in spilling the entire goddamn bottle.
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May 10, 2014 05:33
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signalnoise posted:The correct solution is to transfer the poo poo to dropper bottles, you'll lose less in the process of transfer and drop waste than you will in spilling the entire goddamn bottle. Do you know where to get some? I thought my local art store would have some, but nope. Khorne Flakes posted:It has only happened with that one wash though, no other paint of wash has done this to me. OK, there has to be a formula explaining this, because the same thing happens to me. Just one wash.
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May 10, 2014 12:05
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I just re-based a few of my models, and chipped the paint a little bit on one of the metal models by accident. I didn't notice until I was already done with the painting and static grass. Would Testor's Glosscote/Dullcote ruin the grass? Or do you think I might be able to put a thin layer of varnish on the model despite the grass being there.
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May 10, 2014 12:48
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ijyt posted:Do you know where to get some? I thought my local art store would have some, but nope. Amazon or ebay. I spend the big bucks and get nalgene ldpe dropper bottles for about 1.25 apiece, but you can get them much cheaper. I like the nalgene ones because the tip is harder to remove so it won't pop off if it's clogged.
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May 10, 2014 13:27
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