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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

gamera009 posted:

Haha as soon as I get in town I am off to shelf road. :v:

Which is Friday afternoon.

Nice, enjoy that man. Still need to get down there at some point.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

At the central rock gym and giving this a whirl! I guess I'll see how monochrome setting works for my lame rear end.

I guess if any goons come by I am the fat Asian guy?

edit:// CRG was pretty cool! Unfortunately, they were setting for a comp, but the bouldering wasn't bad. The next time I go, I should bring by lead gear.

gamera009 fucked around with this message at 01:40 on May 1, 2014

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

I've heard that in some forms of strength training it's bad to do the same activity multiple days in a row because it prevents the muscles from repairing or something and it's best to switch parts of the body over different days(I probably have no idea what I'm talking about). Does this apply to climbing? I want to climb every day but I'm curious if that will actually hinder me as opposed to helping me. I'm mostly bouldering right now if that makes a difference.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Are you climbing to build muscles or improve technique?
Muscles need rest days to rebuild (how do you not know this, it's high-school phys ed), but if you're not sore in the morning, you probably didn't work then hard enough to need one.

Climb two rest one is a safe compromise if you're too eager to go easy. A lot of more experienced climbers will climb five, rest one. But they have the technique and endurance to do so.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Speleothing posted:

Are you climbing to build muscles or improve technique?
Muscles need rest days to rebuild (how do you not know this, it's high-school phys ed), but if you're not sore in the morning, you probably didn't work then hard enough to need one.

Climb two rest one is a safe compromise if you're too eager to go easy. A lot of more experienced climbers will climb five, rest one. But they have the technique and endurance to do so.

I'm climbing for both those reasons, I've been climbing three days a week for about a year now and was just curious if going more would be a huge issue. I guess I did know muscles needed rest days, but wasn't sure if it was standard to take 3-4 rest days or if some people took less. I think I'll add one more day to my routine and see how different I feel. Thanks!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
This would hold true if you were climbing the same route...every time you climb. Each route or problem has different movement. Yea your still working out arms and core and whatever but you use specific muscle groups for each climb.

That being said if your really worried about it climb every other day. I train about 5-6 days a week but the days that take the most energy are spaced every other day.

skudmunky
Apr 28, 2010

Claes Oldenburger posted:

I've heard that in some forms of strength training it's bad to do the same activity multiple days in a row because it prevents the muscles from repairing or something and it's best to switch parts of the body over different days(I probably have no idea what I'm talking about). Does this apply to climbing? I want to climb every day but I'm curious if that will actually hinder me as opposed to helping me. I'm mostly bouldering right now if that makes a difference.

Every time I go hard back to back days I regret it. I'm pretty comfortable on an every other day schedule, I generally go 3 or 4 days a week and avoid going 2 days in a row.

If you boulder hard three days in a row as a beginner you will most likely hurt yourself. Tendon pain in your arms is incredibly painful if you try to power through it, listen to your body.

Urethane
Dec 21, 2004

Claes Oldenburger posted:

I'm climbing for both those reasons, I've been climbing three days a week for about a year now and was just curious if going more would be a huge issue. I guess I did know muscles needed rest days, but wasn't sure if it was standard to take 3-4 rest days or if some people took less. I think I'll add one more day to my routine and see how different I feel. Thanks!

Yeah just don't push it really hard if you want to climb every day, especially towards the beginning. It's easy to get really excited and starting doing lots of training every day thinking it's all good, then end up in physical therapy for joint pain a month later. I'm not saying this will happen to you, but be careful.

Resting is also nice sometimes. The muscles get stronger between climbing days during the week, but longer rests give them even more time to strengthen up based on the climbing you've been doing. Sometimes you'll find that when you rest for a whole week and come back, that one project you were trying over and over has become easy.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Caddrel posted:

Resting is also nice sometimes. The muscles get stronger between climbing days during the week, but longer rests give them even more time to strengthen up based on the climbing you've been doing. Sometimes you'll find that when you rest for a whole week and come back, that one project you were trying over and over has become easy.

I have actually noticed that a few times. Alternatively I guess I could just go for longer the times I do go, keeping rest days the same but just trying to go for longer each session. I can see that working out more positively in the long run with less chance of injury.

Maha
Dec 29, 2006
sapere aude
Went to a gym with my dad today and had a blast doing top-rope. My first time other than climbing rainbow in street shoes as a kid. I sent a 5.5! :shobon: Had to try the bouldering too, but didn't stand a chance on the easiest route. We plan on making it a weekly thing!

4R7 THi3F
Aug 8, 2005

oh... so you ARE sick....
Feeling pretty good right now because I finally managed to climb the last two V1's that were eluding me at my gym. :)

What's the process of learning how to boulder on holds that don't have any grooves to sink your fingers into? Is it like mostly finger/grip strength, or is it a clever way of using tension and pushing yourself up? I tried to climb some V2's and couldn't even start them because they have harder holds :/

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

4R7 THi3F posted:

Feeling pretty good right now because I finally managed to climb the last two V1's that were eluding me at my gym. :)

What's the process of learning how to boulder on holds that don't have any grooves to sink your fingers into? Is it like mostly finger/grip strength, or is it a clever way of using tension and pushing yourself up? I tried to climb some V2's and couldn't even start them because they have harder holds :/

I just moved into these this weekend. With the tiny holds, it seems to be more about balance and technique (especially footwork) than sheer grip strength, though I was glad that my fingers and hands have really begun to harden up over the past six months or so.

AriTheDog
Jul 29, 2003
Famously tasty.

4R7 THi3F posted:

Feeling pretty good right now because I finally managed to climb the last two V1's that were eluding me at my gym. :)

What's the process of learning how to boulder on holds that don't have any grooves to sink your fingers into? Is it like mostly finger/grip strength, or is it a clever way of using tension and pushing yourself up? I tried to climb some V2's and couldn't even start them because they have harder holds :/

You generally use those for balance, keeping you from falling off of the wall, while moving upwards with your legs and attempting to keep your weight off of your hands. As always, if in doubt watch another climber or ask someone standing around bouldering.

tynam
May 14, 2007

4R7 THi3F posted:

What's the process of learning how to boulder on holds that don't have any grooves to sink your fingers into? Is it like mostly finger/grip strength, or is it a clever way of using tension and pushing yourself up? I tried to climb some V2's and couldn't even start them because they have harder holds :/

Sounds like slopers? You'd want to keep your entire hand/palm on the hold to garner as much surface area and friction as possible. Also, try to keep your arms straight and stay right under the sloper until you're ready to move up to conserve energy.

If you're talking about edges or crimps, it really is just finger strength. You can lessen the impact with good footwork, but you'll eventually need to strengthen up your finger endurance to hold on to those small holds long enough to climb up them.

dik-dik
Feb 21, 2009

Maha posted:

Went to a gym with my dad today and had a blast doing top-rope. My first time other than climbing rainbow in street shoes as a kid. I sent a 5.5! :shobon: Had to try the bouldering too, but didn't stand a chance on the easiest route. We plan on making it a weekly thing!

That's awesome! I'm always excited when I see new people at my gym starting out (I've only been climbing seriously for a few months but I'm in love with it). If you can go twice a week, you'll make even faster progress, but going once a week is a great start.

Kefit
May 16, 2006
layl

4R7 THi3F posted:

What's the process of learning how to boulder on holds that don't have any grooves to sink your fingers into? Is it like mostly finger/grip strength, or is it a clever way of using tension and pushing yourself up? I tried to climb some V2's and couldn't even start them because they have harder holds :/

Experiment with your hand placement on the hold and often you'll find a place where you can catch your hand and lock yourself in somewhat. Even on big round holds there are often places where there's a sharper crease, or where the hold hooks out a little bit, or where you can wrap your hand around part of it, etc. For a lot of holds all you need to do is find this sweet spot, especially on easier problems. On harder stuff these sweet spots won't be as good, so you'll need to pay a lot more attention to positioning your legs and body in such a way so that your body weight naturally pulls your hand directly against the hold's sweet spot, providing you with maximum grip for minimal effort.

Chris!
Dec 2, 2004

E
I lead climbed indoors for the first time today.

I usually top rope at around 6b / 6c, but leading kicked my arse - did some 5+'s which seemed like 6's, and ended on a 6a which I couldn't complete - there was an overhanging section which I kept falling off of, and ended by trying a big dyno - it was a good way to get rid of any fear about leading. Indoors at least, no idea how you'd do it outside, having to reliably place gear and all, but I want to give that a try next!

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Learning to place gear typically comes after a period of sport leading (bolted routes), and a period of cleaning up other people's gear (following) to learn skills, confidence, and correct placement.

If none of your friends lead trad, consider taking a course. And be prepared to lead two grades lower than you toprope.

Colonel J
Jan 3, 2008
On the bouldering wall, should I try to downclimb every route I do? I've been jumping a lot from the top of the walls and just realized that there are probably benefits to downclimbing which I'm missing.

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

Colonel J posted:

On the bouldering wall, should I try to downclimb every route I do? I've been jumping a lot from the top of the walls and just realized that there are probably benefits to downclimbing which I'm missing.

Coming down even part of the way before jumping will make it easier on your knees and feet.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob
And yes, it's also good for your climbing.

Kefit
May 16, 2006
layl

Colonel J posted:

On the bouldering wall, should I try to downclimb every route I do? I've been jumping a lot from the top of the walls and just realized that there are probably benefits to downclimbing which I'm missing.

Every time you jump or fall off the wall there's a chance of injury. This is especially true if you're tired and not able to concentrate as much as you should on the landing, like after sending a hard problem at your limit. All it takes is misplacing a foot and/or landing in an awkward part of the pad to roll your ankle badly enough to need to stay off the wall for a couple of weeks (or longer). It's best to down climb as much as you can to minimize this risk.

Of course, a controlled fall is generally better than an uncontrolled tumble off a botched downclimb. This is particularly true on some overhangs, where you can just extend your body vertically from the finish hold and drop straight down to the floor relatively safely.

Frown Town
Sep 10, 2009

does not even lift
SWAG SWAG SWAG YOLO

Kefit posted:

Every time you jump or fall off the wall there's a chance of injury. This is especially true if you're tired and not able to concentrate as much as you should on the landing, like after sending a hard problem at your limit. All it takes is misplacing a foot and/or landing in an awkward part of the pad to roll your ankle badly enough to need to stay off the wall for a couple of weeks (or longer). It's best to down climb as much as you can to minimize this risk.

Of course, a controlled fall is generally better than an uncontrolled tumble off a botched downclimb. This is particularly true on some overhangs, where you can just extend your body vertically from the finish hold and drop straight down to the floor relatively safely.

Seconding this. Just had a coworker dislocate a shoulder because he jumped off a problem he didn't feel like finishing rather than downclimbing (and he stuck an arm out to catch himself).

Beyond reducing injuries, down climbing the same route backwards is great practice. I like to use a slow and methodical down climb to help stretch, warm up, and practice some of the movements I suck at in slow motion.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob
Might be going outdoors for the first time this weekend. In the gym I usually just wear athletic sweatpants (think Champion, Underarmor, etc -- I tend to prefer long pants in case I want to put a knee on something). Should I want something sturdier for outdoors? What do you guys use for pants?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Prana Zion pants and shorts. The pants are awesome. Shorts are great when it is 95 out.

modig
Aug 20, 2002

spwrozek posted:

Prana Zion pants and shorts. The pants are awesome. Shorts are great when it is 95 out.

Prana Zion Capri pants. Best of both worlds. Also any random zipoff pants works pretty good too.

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009
I scored some sweet bright red Columbia capris at Good Will for $3 for sandstone climbing. No regrets.

tynam
May 14, 2007
Did my first V3 roof problem last Saturday, and another V3 today. I think I'm finally getting the hang of it now - it's so different from "normal" climbing that it feels like I'm starting all over.

I've been focusing on centering my weight underneath the holds so I don't swing so much when I go for the next hold... which was the biggest epiphany for me. Are there any other pointers/tips you guys have for roof problems?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

modig posted:

Prana Zion Capri pants. Best of both worlds. Also any random zipoff pants works pretty good too.
You mean the "Nemesis Knicker"?
Zipoffs are for dorks :v:

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Kefit posted:

Every time you jump or fall off the wall there's a chance of injury. This is especially true if you're tired and not able to concentrate as much as you should on the landing, like after sending a hard problem at your limit. All it takes is misplacing a foot and/or landing in an awkward part of the pad to roll your ankle badly enough to need to stay off the wall for a couple of weeks (or longer). It's best to down climb as much as you can to minimize this risk.

Of course, a controlled fall is generally better than an uncontrolled tumble off a botched downclimb. This is particularly true on some overhangs, where you can just extend your body vertically from the finish hold and drop straight down to the floor relatively safely.

The only time I've ever gotten an ankle injury is downclimbing a v0 :downsgun:

modig
Aug 20, 2002

Speleothing posted:

You mean the "Nemesis Knicker"?
Zipoffs are for dorks :v:

If wearing zipoffs is wrong, I don't want to be right.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

modig posted:

If wearing zipoffs is wrong, I don't want to be right.

Or you could go with a more stylish roll-up cuff that clips into place at the knee. :colbert:

Thom Yorke raps
Nov 2, 2004


The only appropriate outfit for climbing is spandex leggings

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009

Ranma posted:

The only appropriate outfit for climbing is neon spandex leggings

Fixed this for you.

Disco Pope
Dec 6, 2004

Top Class!
Are there any resources you guys could recommend to refresh myself on the fundamentals of climbing? I passed a learn to climb course a while back, and have been bouldering a few times since and was delighted that I finally found something physical that I get a kick out of, but I found myself in the embarrassing situation of being refused entry to a different facility that had a shared bouldering/climbing wall because I'd either forgotten everything or wasn't confident on the basics. I respect the need for them to do that, but it was kind of disheartening.

I don't really have many friends interested in climbing, and to be frank, I don't want to approach those who do until I'm confident I won't smash their skulls like eggs. Should I just save up and take the course again?

tynam
May 14, 2007

Disco Pope posted:

Are there any resources you guys could recommend to refresh myself on the fundamentals of climbing? I passed a learn to climb course a while back, and have been bouldering a few times since and was delighted that I finally found something physical that I get a kick out of, but I found myself in the embarrassing situation of being refused entry to a different facility that had a shared bouldering/climbing wall because I'd either forgotten everything or wasn't confident on the basics. I respect the need for them to do that, but it was kind of disheartening.

I don't really have many friends interested in climbing, and to be frank, I don't want to approach those who do until I'm confident I won't smash their skulls like eggs. Should I just save up and take the course again?

I'm guessing you forgot how to tie in and belay properly for toprope, since I can't imagine a situation where you'd be straight up refused entry to bouldering. You should definitely take courses again since online resources won't give you the muscle memory (or confidence) you'll need to pass belay checks and tests - let alone belay safely for someone else.

If money is an issue, just find someone who knows how to toprope belay and ask for instructions - it's ridiculously simple and takes 1 hour at most to drill it into your memory.

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





Disco Pope posted:

Are there any resources you guys could recommend to refresh myself on the fundamentals of climbing? I passed a learn to climb course a while back, and have been bouldering a few times since and was delighted that I finally found something physical that I get a kick out of, but I found myself in the embarrassing situation of being refused entry to a different facility that had a shared bouldering/climbing wall because I'd either forgotten everything or wasn't confident on the basics. I respect the need for them to do that, but it was kind of disheartening.

I don't really have many friends interested in climbing, and to be frank, I don't want to approach those who do until I'm confident I won't smash their skulls like eggs. Should I just save up and take the course again?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCUJrXSKWrw

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.
Learning to toprope belay is incredibly easy. It can be a little tricky to do it quickly, but the knots and technique are definitely something you can pick up on YouTube.

Just never ever let go of the brake side, and you'll be fine.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Where do you live? Someone on here might be close by and willing to show you the ropes again.

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Disco Pope
Dec 6, 2004

Top Class!

spwrozek posted:

Where do you live? Someone on here might be close by and willing to show you the ropes again.

North-East Scotland. I found out that a colleague I get on with is an experienced climber today and she's offered to help me get back up to speed! :)

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