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It sounds like a blank tv channel in the background, I'll be streaming music from my phone and I can hear it under the music. I don't know if it's the way bose sets up their systems but my bass and volume seem really low, I usually have it set at 30 or 40 volume. In my old protege5 I replaced the head unit and it really tightened up the sound. I'm wondering if there is anyway to boost the quality of the stock unit without breaking the bank on my 2011 mazda3.
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May 5, 2014 05:24
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I need a new 12" sub. I have your standard prebuilt box and 250ish RMS watt amp. I listen to mostly punk but I dabble in rap, techno, and pretty much everything. I don't need to rattle windows and set off car alarms but in used to poo poo blurring my vision when I kick on some easy e. The catch? I need to be a cheap rear end. There's some well reviewed stuff under fifty bucks at http://www.onlinecarstereo.com and would like to stay under that of possible. I'm prefer that retailer because they have anyways treated me right with orders in the passed. :-)
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May 5, 2014 09:56
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I'm looking at a W0 10" JL which runs about $109. Am I just paying for a name here? My goal is smallish 10" to replace a factory sub. My plan is using the factory sub signal into high level inputs on some amp. Is this a bad idea? Rest of car audio is stock so I don't have low level inputs.
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May 5, 2014 18:27
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Ignoarints posted:I'm looking at a W0 10" JL which runs about $109. Am I just paying for a name here? You may be overpaying because of where the sub will end up. How much space is in the factory enclosure? Is the enclosure plastic, easily-flexed? Since you will be using existing powered signal stepped down to line level via an amp's function, I presume that a crossover has already seen the signal on that sub line... so it could be crossed over really high (stock systems like to cross the sub up higher to help tiny corner speakers). Speaking directly to the product though, I'm a good 10 years out of the car audio scene, but back in the day I personally ran drat near every W0 chassis made either in my car, or built enclosures for other people's cars. I think the only one that escaped me was the 6W0. For a cheap, reliable sub that can sound every bit of fantastic in a proper enclosure, I swear by the W0 line. JL even has built several project cars over the years running nothing but their bottom of the line speakers, amps, and W0 subs, and they're amazing. I pretty much swear by JL on subs and amps, and I'm quite fond of their component sets as well. See avatar for full disclaimer. I personally think it will improve things, but how much... could be very debatable if you're basically amplifying a leaky, flexing enclosure crossed over up into midbass territory. I totally understand though that you work with what you have.
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May 5, 2014 22:33
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Woops, I forgot to mention a new box too. I am just taking out the old one. The enclosure for it looks very tiny and it's plastic. I've traditionally bought alpine, kicker, and infinity in the past but solely due to wholesale pricing I could get. Now I don't get that, but I always wanted JL. Glad to hear all you said about them though. I'm totally at a loss for amps though. I used to use Alpines, again soley due to cost, but now that the playing field is level I don't know what to get. Reviews seem to be along the lines of the "5 stars because it works" variety unfortunately. The factory subwoofer amp is on the firewall and I doubt I have access to any sort of crossover. Do you think there are any (fairly economical) options for this? Thanks though for the info already
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May 5, 2014 22:54
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Ignoarints posted:Woops, I forgot to mention a new box too. I am just taking out the old one. The enclosure for it looks very tiny and it's plastic. Well, it's cake to find a modern Class-D sub amp that has a crossover built into the input stage. What I would suggest, if you can do it, is hijack the inputs going into said sub amp on the firewall, since those should already be line coming from the head. However, there's a distinct possibility that even that line signal has been pre-crossed in the head as well. If so, that could be a problem waiting to happen. If it's crossed at, say, 120hz... You cross above that? No effect. You cross at that? Double cross slope, which is very jarring, as the there's no subtle hand off between speakers. You'll know this is happening if there's no sub playing and then OMG SUB SUB SUB where'd the sub go stuff happening. You cross below that point and you leave a big gaping passband of nothing in between those frequencies. Anyway, you would need some specific tools to analyze the bandwidth on the line signal directly. What's easier is if you can hijack the line in on the front of the stock sub amp, pipe that to a functioning other amp and hook various speakers to it to see if you get full range signal. Should be fairly evident, but it does require some installation overhead, and spare speakers, to troubleshoot. Something a shop is much more capable of doing. The other problem is that the stock solution could have a high-pass filter on it as well, keeping frequencies lower than what that stock sub can handle from ever reaching it. That would cut the bottom end off of any after-market sub solution. This, also something a shop could figure out for you. Integrating aftermarket into a stock setup is a tricky beast. Basically, over the last 10 years or so, auto manufacturers have done their damnedest to keep people from doing it, and this "stock sub" thing is part of it. You used to just be able to grab a bleed off of any stereo line level or stepped-down powered and do what you wanted to because you knew it was full range. Now... maybe? Probably not. This is the whole point of modern integration hardware (like JL's CleanSweep or other similar products). Anyway, I know it's totally not the question you asked, but there be dragons here. I'd be remiss if I didn't bring them up. As for amps... Historically I've tried to find what's bulletproof. Back in the fledgling days of car audio for me (and lord this dates me), that was the black death hockey puck Rockford Fosgate Punch Series, of which I had a 40 and 60. This was circa 1991 and they are indeed still functioning in the car of a gentleman I sold them to last year (I had them on a shelf for ages). When I pulled those RF amps many years ago, I replaced them with JL "Slash" amps, a 300/4 and a 250/1. I loved the RF amps, I was stunned by the JL's. So clean. So very clean. I did several cars for friends using the lower tier JX lines and I have to say I was just as impressed. This is one thing that I am totally fanboy about. I don't care the price point, all other things being equal I go with the JL product when it comes to amps, subs or systems integration. I've also installed various Evolution line speakers for friends and have been very pleased with the results (but I kept my old MB Quarts between vehicles for probably a decade).
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May 5, 2014 23:27
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EbolaIvory posted:I need a new 12" sub. I have your standard prebuilt box and 250ish RMS watt amp. http://www.cowboom.com - they frequently have name brand open box subs (Cowboom is owned by Best Buy). I snagged my Polk DXi 12" single coil cub from them years ago for under $30. They charge extra if you do a local pickup though, jerks.  (one of their big warehouses is 30 min from me)e: looking today, they're not nearly as cheap (some stuff is more expensive than brand new), but if you know what's worth what, you can still find some bargains. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:42 on May 6, 2014 |
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May 6, 2014 07:39
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A friend of mine recently purchased a new sound system for his 2000 Subaru Outback and was planning on replacing the two front speakers (Powered by the deck) and installing an amp that powers the sub. After taking it CarToys to get it installed, they called him and said after turning the newly installed system on, it worked for a few second but then the deck started smoking. The new deck and amp are fried. They reinstalled the old deck and left all the wiring / sub installed. His equipment that he purchased: Alpine CDE-141 Stereo - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DFsFZqeYoa6/p_500CDE141/Alpine-CDE-141.html Infinity Reference 1262W (300W 12" Reference Series Dual 4 ohm Subwoofer) - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18918_Infinity-Reference-1262W.html Infinity Reference 6030cs (6.5" 2-Way Reference Series Component Car Audio Speaker System) - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18913_Infinity-Reference-6030cs.html Precision Power PPI P900.4 (900W Phantom Series Class D Full Range 4-Channel Amplifier) - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38338_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4.html Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Wiring Kit with 2-Channel RCA Interconnects (CCA Wiring) - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45056_Belva-BAK42.html The guy who installed it is claiming that it was a faulty product, I personally think he must have crossed wires somewhere because I just find it hard to believe that it was a faulty product. What do you guys think?
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May 6, 2014 17:36
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Busy Bee posted:A friend of mine recently purchased a new sound system for his 2000 Subaru Outback and was planning on replacing the two front speakers (Powered by the deck) and installing an amp that powers the sub. After taking it CarToys to get it installed, they called him and said after turning the newly installed system on, it worked for a few second but then the deck started smoking. The new deck and amp are fried. They reinstalled the old deck and left all the wiring / sub installed. Worst I've ever seen a shop do is reverse the switched and constant 12v... which under most circumstances just causes odd behavior until fixed, not an electrical fire. Hell, though... I've even seen those mislabeled in color AND in the manual from the manufacturer before, so there's that. I'm not sure exactly how far they would have to wander away from the normal modern color coding to cause them to be the source of the issue, so under normal circumstances I would say it isn't the shop's fault, but then... I've only ever worked with small shops (with several IASCA and USACi-awarded installers on staff), so... YMMV. But still... it took out the amp? Like, they've verified the amp is dead on their bench? The only thing I could imagine doing that is if somehow the head had some bizzaro short in it that sent 12v DC full across the line to the amp.
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May 6, 2014 23:53
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Hemming and hawing over what 4 channel amp to buy. Looking around 60-70 (or more) watts RMS per chan into 4 ohms. This amp will be driving: Front: Rockford Fosgate P165-S Rear: Rockford Fosgate P165 I'm Between these two: Rockford Fosgate R400-4D Pioneer GM-D8604 Open to other suggestions also. Budget is $200 or less, care more about SQ than anything else really. Preouts are nice to have also.
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May 7, 2014 01:18
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SynMoo posted:Hemming and hawing over what 4 channel amp to buy. The Pioneer has more dilz-rattling power, a better S/N ratio, and preouts. By the numbers, that looks better to me for what you specified.
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May 7, 2014 01:48
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Anyone make stock looking units like the old Blaupunkts? If not, any recommendations for a matte black, red illumination (or better yet, customizable color), with Bluetooth preferred otherwise aux in a must? Could be cd-player less, as I don't own any CDs anymore. Going in an old BMW, hence the colors.
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May 7, 2014 02:30
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Alleric posted:Well, it's cake to find a modern Class-D sub amp that has a crossover built into the input stage. Ah man... I'm looking into it elsewhere (I hate looking for crap on cobalt forums) and after a bunch of misinformation and people yelling at each other over the stock sub wiring (which has 2 outputs from the amp for some reason, right and left subwoofer signal...) I read some side information that the rear deck speakers are in fact full range. So perhaps it might be easiest for me to not even take out the stock sub and simply get my signal from the rear speakers wiring. Perhaps it will sound even better this way with the stock sub as well, but I have a feeling I'll be disabling it too. Last time I did this was over 10 years ago. Is it a bad idea to simply splice the wires and send that high level input into the amp? Will that affect the quality or volume of that one rear speaker as well? Thanks for all this information too
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May 7, 2014 15:49
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Ignoarints posted:Ah man... I'm looking into it elsewhere (I hate looking for crap on cobalt forums) and after a bunch of misinformation and people yelling at each other over the stock sub wiring (which has 2 outputs from the amp for some reason, right and left subwoofer signal...) I read some side information that the rear deck speakers are in fact full range. So perhaps it might be easiest for me to not even take out the stock sub and simply get my signal from the rear speakers wiring. Perhaps it will sound even better this way with the stock sub as well, but I have a feeling I'll be disabling it too. You'd have to check specs on various manufacturers as to if they'll take high-level inputs straight into the front of the amp and then step things down internally. Several modern amp lines do this, and it eliminates the need for a line level converter entirely. You know... I'd sat out the car audio threads for several years at this point, but I'll be damned if this hasn't got me thinking. I'm probably going to have my car for several more years, and I do indeed miss the sounds of my old systems. A CL441dsp under the driver's seat, an XD400/4v2 under the passenger seat, then some dynamat for the doors and 4 very full range speaks for the corners. Run sub-less. Far more simple than previous incarnations. I wouldn't have the down-to-14hz rumble of my old sub enclosures, but oh well. I don't have all that many recordings that I would listen to on the daily drive that dip down there anyway. Time to go see who makes component/coaxial systems that dip down into the 30's.
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May 7, 2014 18:15
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The amps I'm looking at will take high level inputs, I was just unsure about how crossovered-up the signal would be when it passes through the factory amp. But finding out the rears are full range is good news, now I'm just wondering if splicing that signal off a rear speaker into the amp is a good idea for that rear speaker. I mean I know I did this exact thing 10 years ago but that doesn't mean it was a great idea (I mean it worked, but, who knows I was a dumb kid) I always encourage things that make driving your car more pleasurable. You're often in it. People sometimes don't get it (when I drop 2 grand on poo poo or something), but I like to compare it to the money people spend on vacations. I'm in my car all the time - every single day - I'd rather have one that I enjoy driving more than a "normal" car. If that means a slightly larger car payment, or one with slightly more miles than I could otherwise get with my budget, it's worth every penny to me. The difference is what people actually enjoy. I happily bought a car that rode kind of lovely, had zero noise insulation, manual everything, but it was $34000 (STi), and I know that would definitely fit in the "I loving hate this" category for most people. However audio is almost universal. Always worth it in my opinion. These days factory audio is pretty kick rear end though compared to even the recent past Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 18:34 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 18:26
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The rear speaker outputs on my head unit appear to have died. I do a lot of long journeys and I think it overheats when I have it up loud for too long (it smelt funny for quite a long time beforehand). They started cutting out intermittently first and now only work for 30 seconds sometimes when I first turn the stereo on. It is a kenwood head unit and I have the factory front dash speakers/tweeters and some generic 6x9's in the back. I don't really want to just replace the head unit if I can get away with it as it is a DAB one which makes it a lot pricier than a standard one. I can't cope withot DAB now since I drive a lot and the FM stations in the UK are all poo poo! Does anybody make a small cheap amp that I could chuck into the dash behind the head unit - thus making wiring it in a lot easier? (assuming that the pre-outs are still working - I will test them first). I don't want excessive power! - just enough to run the speakers I already have without having to run more wiring and fit a big amp somewhere in the back. (This Is an aygo and I'm usually transporting servers+ misc IT stuff and my kit for a week away so space is very limited!) Since the rears went my head unit still smells very warm when it's been on loud for 4 or 5 hours straight. Does this imply that the fronts might go next?
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May 7, 2014 21:40
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A lot of factory car amps are mounted on the firewall, it shouldn't be too hard. Frankly I wouldn't count on your HU amp to last much longer, and if it were me I don't like amplifiers that smell like they are burning at all. If you consider the cost of a 4 channel amp it might be better just to buy a new HU.
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May 7, 2014 22:06
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The stock speakers in my 13 Jetta Sportwagon are junk. I'm thinking about replacing them and adding a subwoofer, as I listen to a lot of EDM. Any suggestions? I really would like to stay with the stock HU.
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May 8, 2014 16:06
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I am considering doing a amp install, I've never done a auto audio instal before. How much poo poo am I getting myself into?
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May 11, 2014 04:58
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Wokrider posted:I am considering doing a amp install, I've never done a auto audio instal before. It's not awfully hard. Run power on one side. RCA's on the other. Sometimes depends on vehicle on difficulty but mostly anyone can do it. Just get an interior panel tool or a bag or two of relevant fasteners
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May 11, 2014 06:31
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Ok, time to actually install some kind of stereo doodad in my jalopy. And it will be entirely hidden - either in/behind the glovebox, or under a seat. Here's what I'd like - something that can be controlled via my iphone, including the volume level. It would be swell if it also had a USB input for either a permanently tethered ipod or USB drive full of sweet jams. Oh, and bluetooth phone capability. I've found a number of head units that have some kind of "app" connectivity, but rarely if ever does it include the actual volume control, except this one: http://www.scosche.com/bluetooth-car-stereo-receiver-with-wireless-app-control - it's not a brand I associate with other than accessories that don't quite work, so I'm not sure it's a great choice. Any other suggestions?
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May 11, 2014 14:40
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EbolaIvory posted:It's not awfully hard. Run power on one side. RCA's on the other. Sometimes depends on vehicle on difficulty but mostly anyone can do it. Just get an interior panel tool or a bag or two of relevant fasteners How do you mount the amp to keep it from sliding around? I've heard most people tend to attach it to the back of a seat.
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May 11, 2014 16:36
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Does anyone have experience with the little JL Microsubs? Right now I have a this cheap Rockford Fosgate: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r1l-1x12 running off a RF R300-4 with two channels bridged for the sub and the other two driving JBL MS-62C components in the front. The RF sub has plenty of volume for me, but seems a little one note. Pretty well turning off the high pass crossover on my front components helped the sub integrate much better to much ears. I have no idea if a nicer sub would make this any better. Someone I talked to thought that it might hit the higher bass frequencies a little better, which is where the R1L seems to be kindof weak. It'd be nice to have something smaller regardless. It's in a hatchback if that makes a difference.
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May 11, 2014 18:20
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Wokrider posted:How do you mount the amp to keep it from sliding around? Personal preference. I've seat mounted it. I've mounted them to the sub box. I've mounted them to the floor/spare tire cover. Just depends on the vehicle and how permanently I want the amp there. A lot of the time I just mount it to the box. Makes it easier to steal but whatever.
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May 11, 2014 19:44
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I prefer mounting to the back of the seat, or to the trunk floor. I don't like mounting them to the box; there's always a chance the box can slide around and rip the wires out.
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May 11, 2014 22:35
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I'm thinking I'll attach it to my trunk cover, I drive a mazda3 hatchback. I'll probably attach some Velcro the amp and the trunk cover. in order to fit a spare you have to take the cover out so that should work. Should I use 8gauge wire?
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May 11, 2014 22:40
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So I just got a 07 Cadillac CTS and I am wanting to change out the speakers as they are starting to crackle and sound lovely. At least right now and probably at least for the summer, id rather not get a sub and amp ect. The stock sub on the car still bumps pretty good and doesnt sound like poo poo. What would be some good ~cheapish~ speakers. 2 front 2 rear and the 2 tweeters I think they are called that are long the frame. I would also like to get a new head unit cd player whatever they are called that has a plug for my ipod. I know some cars can use pandora, but im sure my vehicle isnt capable of doing it, what does it take to make it work?
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May 12, 2014 02:49
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Wokrider posted:I'm thinking I'll attach it to my trunk cover, I drive a mazda3 hatchback. Just keep it out of sight, don't want anyone stealing it. 8 gauge could be overkill, or could be laughably undersized. Amp specs would help a bit.
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May 12, 2014 08:32
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some texas redneck posted:I prefer mounting to the back of the seat, or to the trunk floor. I don't like mounting them to the box; there's always a chance the box can slide around and rip the wires out. Screw the box down.
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May 12, 2014 08:57
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jhcain posted:Ok, time to actually install some kind of stereo doodad in my jalopy. And it will be entirely hidden - either in/behind the glovebox, or under a seat. Sony BT3100P and BT4100P will do volume control. There's a promo video on YouTube that demonstrates their app remote, try to play with a demo model just in case. Wokrider posted:I'm thinking I'll attach it to my trunk cover, I drive a mazda3 hatchback. Like the cargo cover? Most amps don't like to be mounted upside down. Back of the rear seats is usually a good spot. Twinkie Fat Sac posted:So I just got a 07 Cadillac CTS and I am wanting to change out the speakers as they are starting to crackle and sound lovely. At least right now and probably at least for the summer, id rather not get a sub and amp ect. The stock sub on the car still bumps pretty good and doesnt sound like poo poo. What would be some good ~cheapish~ speakers. 2 front 2 rear and the 2 tweeters I think they are called that are long the frame. I would also like to get a new head unit cd player whatever they are called that has a plug for my ipod. I know some cars can use pandora, but im sure my vehicle isnt capable of doing it, what does it take to make it work? If you have the Bose system do some research and find out what ohm the factory speakers are. If you want to put in an aftermarket head unit you'll need an interface module; which one you get depends on whether you have a Bose system or not and if you want to keep it if you do.
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May 12, 2014 14:39
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I just bought a JBL GX-A3100 for $110 due to a sale and the fact it has speaker level inputs and will match the JL 10w0 power wise. Hope it was a decent choice, but it is new and there aren't really reviews. Tentative plan is to tap the rear deck speakers because they are supposed to be full range. Do I tap both left and right? The speaker level input adapter looks like four wires
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May 12, 2014 15:22
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If you have the Bose system do some research and find out what ohm the factory speakers are. If you want to put in an aftermarket head unit you'll need an interface module; which one you get depends on whether you have a Bose system or not and if you want to keep it if you do. It is not the bose system. As awesome as I think bose speakers are, it seems the general consensus of them on various other boards are they are poo poo and way ever priced.
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May 12, 2014 20:58
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Twinkie Fat Sac posted:If you have the Bose system do some research and find out what ohm the factory speakers are. If you want to put in an aftermarket head unit you'll need an interface module; which one you get depends on whether you have a Bose system or not and if you want to keep it if you do. But they are overpriced. My experience with Bose is that they do one thing better than anyone, and that's noise cancellation; if that's what you're after, they cannot be beat. For everything else, they sound boxy, as if they are small speakers in a giant plastic tub; or WAY over processed, making all the music sound unrealistically high treble in parts where there is nothing else, but when something in the mids come back, the highs and lows get muted. I only got to experience with Bose car audio once, in a Chevy Tahoe, driving from LV to Ashland. The sound experience felt no better than stock GM sound, in my experience.
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May 14, 2014 00:35
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Ignoarints posted:Tentative plan is to tap the rear deck speakers because they are supposed to be full range. Do I tap both left and right? The speaker level input adapter looks like four wires Yes you do. Otherwise you only have bass from either the right or left channel - and a lot of bands have heard of this "stereo" stuff and may fade some instruments to one channel for part of a track. Wasabi the J posted:I only got to experience with Bose car audio once, in a Chevy Tahoe, driving from LV to Ashland. The sound experience felt no better than stock GM sound, in my experience. Don't insult GM like that.  But seriously, I've heard many Bose systems first hand, along with a few JBL systems. My car has the stock GM system (with an added amp+sub), and even before the sub, sounded better. I was honestly surprised to find out my car had actual coaxials up front from the factory. I'm used to full range everything on stock systems, even in "nice" cars. Finding coaxials in an economy car was a  moment for me.
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May 14, 2014 08:33
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Are there any head units out there that can handle a large-ish hard drive well? I have a DEH-X9500BHS that irritates the hell out of me - I can plug a portable hard drive into the USB port and it "works", but not in a way that I'd call acceptable. When the hard drive has 100+GB of mp3s on it, you have two options: you can just access the drive in a basic file mode, which works somewhat well, but you can't search by album or anything like that, you just have the option to scroll through the folder list. You also can't even jump by letter in this mode, so if I want to listen to an artist around the middle of the alphabet like, say, Modest Mouse, I have to twist the knob about a hundred times to get there. There are little tricks you can do to make it work a bit better such as sorting into lettered folders, but it still doesn't work that great. The other option is to turn on file indexing mode, which almost works great, but has two huge problems; it re-indexes the entire hard drive every time you turn the car on, which takes several minutes every time, and for some idiotic reason it will only sort album tracks by alphabetical order, there's no way in this mode to sort the tracks in an album into the order they should be on the album. I recently had the opportunity to borrow a friend's ipod classic, and when plugged into the usb port it worked brilliantly, did everything just the way I want. Really though, I'd much rather sell this head unit and buy one that actually works the way I want than have to spend 200+ bucks on a goddamn lovely ipod. There must be head units out there that can do what I want, right? I can't imagine there wouldn't be. I currently plan on trying out the Alpine CDE-HD149BT, primarily because Best Buy sells it, so I can buy it, bench test it, and easily return it if it doesn't work the way I want. Does anyone have any experience with any that work well? Mr. Beefhead fucked around with this message at 23:32 on May 18, 2014 |
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May 18, 2014 19:23
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Hey this might be a dumb question, but is there a recommended solution for nicely and discretely running and securing a wire in the crevices of a dash? I put a smartphone mount and bluetooth kit in my car and I was able to tuck most of the wires under various trim pieces, but I still have a little bit of dangling wires that I want to hide and tuck away into the corners and crevices of the dash. Basically what I'm thinking of is like electrical tape, but something a lot more secure and less prone to becoming a sticky melty mess. Any suggestions for something non-permanent? I've tried looking around on something like Crutchfield and Google but I don't even really know what keywords I'm looking for. Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:23 on May 19, 2014 |
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May 19, 2014 19:00
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I'm not sure what the hell happened, but something broke. Yesterday morning everything was fine, everything sounded like it should. Nine hours later, came out of work, jumped in the car and suddenly my sub is clipping badly, like the volume / bass is turned up way too loud. I haven't changed any settings or moved anything. The only thing I did recently [around six weeks ago] was change the amp, after my venerable Soundstream PCA-1500 developed movement and a dry joint on the RCA [which I hope to fix]. I dug out an old Z Audio '400W' piece of junk out of the wardrobe, hooked it up correctly and it worked fine up until now. It also seems to miss certain beats, as a I listened to it during a three bass note track, and it was missing the low note, but picking up the mid and high, albeit punching the poo poo out of them and causing the whole car to rattle. I checked the sub for any holes or cuts, but couldn't find anything and turned the amp down a third which lowered the volume, but it's still making that awful fart noise. Anyone have any idea on what might have gone wrong? Has the amp suddenly blown a cap / sub blown it's coil?
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May 20, 2014 06:12
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Working on a budget here. I just bought a pair of speakers with an RMS range of 2-30W. My head unit is pushing out 17W. I'm confused about this and I can't even explain how. I see stuff about under powering speakers and all sorts of stuff. Basically, are those speakers a good match for the head unit?
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May 24, 2014 10:15
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You're fine, it just won't get super loud with them. But chances are your existing speakers have similar efficiency anyway. But what the hell head unit do you have that puts out 17W? 
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May 24, 2014 11:28
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 00:08 |
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some texas redneck posted:You're fine, it just won't get super loud with them. But chances are your existing speakers have similar efficiency anyway. Whatever the current $100 Sony Xplod is. 52 peak, 17 RMS. I don't really know wtf I'm talking about.
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May 24, 2014 11:41
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