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Vermintide posted:
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May 19, 2014 21:56
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A new figure in 1:56 scale. Just sort of freestyled it.    
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May 19, 2014 21:57
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Indolent Bastard posted:Does it shrink after it dries? Because that is my one complaint with the liquitex fine sand texture stuff. I almost always need to add two coats as it shrinks down during drying. Nah it doesn't really shrink at all. Just makes for a nice sandy texture cause you can glob it on as thick as you like.  Fresh application  After it dries. These are pretty thick applications too for uneven ground and stuff but you can thin it with water to get a flatter texture from it. Hard as cement too, so it doesn't flake or crumble at all, really. Pierzak posted:Where did you get that hex stencil? I need one. Haha not mine, I'm afraid. Just found the pic on the internets. Vermintide fucked around with this message at 22:05 on May 19, 2014 |
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May 19, 2014 22:03
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I use the Golden Extra Coarse pumice gel for my basing. Gives a nice rocky terrain look. The gel part dries completely leaving the "rocks" behind. Hit it with some Devlan Mud and dry brush with some gray/white and you're in business.
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May 19, 2014 22:52
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Indolent Bastard posted:Does it shrink after it dries? Because that is my one complaint with the liquitex fine sand texture stuff. I almost always need to add two coats as it shrinks down during drying. I got my lava for around 8 bux and yeah the there is some shrinkage. Also it is kinda a pain that I end up with glitter glued all over my hands when ever I use it.
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May 19, 2014 23:46
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AndyElusive posted:I don't mind the FW paintjob. The one that was shown in the 40k thread looked really boring, but this one has subtle detail that I like and reflects the HH era Death Guard pretty well. I think it's the face that is killing it for me. Like I said, I do like the bare resin though, so I know it isn't the model.
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May 20, 2014 00:48
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Thanks for the advice everyone - I found some old unpainted 40k models and was able to revive some of my GW paints, so with a set of Army Painter stuff on the way along with a few fresh models I'll hopefully have a few things done in a week or so. I'll experiment with the art paints I have on something I don't care about once I'm back in the swing of painting again.
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May 20, 2014 06:42
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NTRabbit posted:I have a Gundam Marker for when I need to do small black dots and lines, because there's not even the remotest chance my shaky hands can do anything that small with any kind of brush. Even getting a moderately long straight line with the pen is challenging enough. I've also taken to using a toothpick held in both hands at once to go for eyes, and it seems to get a dot and not a smear everywhere about 2/3 of the time which for me is a success. I hate line highlighting and get pretty frustrated with tiny detail work because of how long it takes me. Conversely, I love weathering and destroying stuff. Hixson is a boss at line highlights and I'm just a stubborn rear end in a top hat. I'll have to try the toothpick thing sometime though.
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May 20, 2014 06:59
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Pierzak posted:Where did you get that hex stencil? I need one. search online or ebay for 'hex painting stencil' or template, I have a few for airbrushing Hellbeard posted:A new figure in 1:56 scale. Just sort of freestyled it. Looks really cool! The beret is a little small to me but otherwise two thumbs up.
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May 20, 2014 10:05
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Hellbeard posted:A new figure in 1:56 scale. Just sort of freestyled it. this is awesome and you are awesome. I do a lot of figure drawing though and one small thing that's really bugging me about it is his legs are *slightly* too small proportionally for his torso (mostly visible from the rear shots, it might be his arms are a little to big...hard to say since hes got a lot of bulky gear. Also potentially camera angle). You said you freestyled it so that makes a lot of sense, but I just wanted to point it out in case you hadn't noticed. I really don't want to poo poo on your parade or anything like that, just an honest critique. A+ stuff still. treeboy fucked around with this message at 12:14 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 12:10
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krushgroove posted:
Thanks! I felt it was a bit small too but it's hard to be sure sometimes when something is a bit off or I'm just imagining it. treeboy posted:this is awesome and you are awesome. I do a lot of figure drawing though and one small thing that's really bugging me about it is his legs are *slightly* too small proportionally for his torso (mostly visible from the rear shots, it might be his arms are a little to big...hard to say since hes got a lot of bulky gear. Also potentially camera angle). You said you freestyled it so that makes a lot of sense, but I just wanted to point it out in case you hadn't noticed. Wow! Thanks so much. I'll try to keep an eye on it. It's a mistake I often make. I think I should do like a bunch of just figures with no detail but just try to nail the poses and proportions along with my practice heads.
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May 20, 2014 14:04
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Hellbeard posted:Thanks! I felt it was a bit small too but it's hard to be sure sometimes when something is a bit off or I'm just imagining it. you're really close, i had to take a good long look at it, and I think it's actually his arms (left arm at least) are a little too long which makes his legs look stumpy. His fingers reach around his knee when generally (if you're going for standard proportions which it looks like) they should end mid-thigh. If i cover up his arms his torso/legs look good. still, super great! I gave up on maquette modeling in college and stuck to drawing and animation.
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May 20, 2014 14:16
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Alright, I keep loving up my paintbrushes and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I empty my water cup when it gets a little cloudy. Should I be just using the faucet only? I dry the brushes by touching them to a paper towel after rinsing. I don't dry them on their bristles. I don't shove my brush against the miniature. I don't get paint all up in the ferrule (to my knowledge). I used brush soap and conditioner, but the tips still fray. Could someone post a quick do/do not list for making sure paintbrushes don't get hosed up? I want to use better brushes but I keep ruining them and I'm loving mystified with the care I've put into my recent batch for them to get hosed up so quickly.
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May 20, 2014 15:18
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What brushes are they? Do you store them flat or standing up? Do you ever let them stand on their bristles (please say no)? If they're cheap brushes or GW brushes don't worry about it, just get better brushes as your skill/finances improve and treat them better than what you're doing (but tbh what you're doing sounds good).
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May 20, 2014 15:22
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krushgroove posted:What brushes are they? Do you store them flat or standing up? Do you ever let them stand on their bristles (please say no)? My current brushes are an Army Painter set of 3 brushes, a couple Rembrandts, and a WN series 7. This happens with every single brush.
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May 20, 2014 15:24
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signalnoise posted:My current brushes are an Army Painter set of 3 brushes, a couple Rembrandts, and a WN series 7. This happens with every single brush. What technique do you use to rinse and clean? I used to make contact between the ferrule and bottom of my water cup and that was wearing out brushes faster. Then I started using brush soap and found that even making 45-degree contact between the ferrule and soap was enough to slightly crimp the bristles and cause them to splay faster. Pressing the ferrule against just about anything can cause the brush to fray.
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May 20, 2014 15:34
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While painting, I swirl the brush around in a water cup for a moment then kind of paint a paper towel to get the water off. Then I do it again in a second water cup and do the paper towel thing again. Usually I end up with one translucent cup and one still transparent cup. When cleaning post-paint, and this is with a pretty new set of brushes, pink soap and sometimes that Master's soap/conditioner stuff. I mean the thing to me is that these brushes are fraying after like 2 sessions. I don't know if I'm being too vigorous when swirling the brush in the water cup, or if my cup is getting too dirty and pigment is getting in the ferrule, or if my use of inks, with their low viscosity, is getting too deep in my brush. Or maybe my expectations are too high and brushes just fry after a while? I don't think that's the case though.
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May 20, 2014 15:48
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The brushes will sort of spread after a while, but not 'fray' - maybe post a picture of your brushes? If you have the cleaning soap, drag the wet bristles across the soap before you put the brushes away to help them keep their point for next time. Some people use their tongue/lips/spit to do this, others use soap and fingers. I think you're not getting actual damage, just the natural spread of a brush going through multiple painting/cleaning cycles.
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May 20, 2014 16:02
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signalnoise posted:Could someone post a quick do/do not list for making sure paintbrushes don't get hosed up? I want to use better brushes but I keep ruining them and I'm loving mystified with the care I've put into my recent batch for them to get hosed up so quickly. + get good quality brushes. Good artist's brushes are as cheap as basic modeling ones, hold their point better, and last 10x as long. + if you have an equally fine point on two brushes and have to paint eyes or other small details, take the bigger one, it'll hold the paint better (doesn't dry as fast) and be easier to clean because you don't risk getting paint under the ferrule of your 00000000000 brush. + wash the brushes often (like. every 5 mins max). You'll be surprised how much paint dries on the brush before you wash. + use a brush cleaner soap/conditioner after a painting session. + use two water cups (one to get rid of the worst poo poo, and the second one afterwards to actually have a clean brush) + have a separate brush for every kind of paint (i.e. acrylics, alcohol based, oil wash). I haven't needed a separate brush for metallics, but some people recommend it. - never use a regular brush for drybrushing, it ruins brushes almost instantly. - don't let the brushes stand/lie on the bristles. This includes sweeping the bottom of the water cup when rinsing. - don't let the paint seep into the ferrule (the metal "bristle holder"). - don't let the paint dry on the brush, especially near the ferrule. If it cakes solid you'll have less of a brush to paint with and it'll start catching dry paint more and more often. If it happens just clean it with acetone or other paint stripper and use to drybrush or for something with less detail, like terrain. - remember the protective plastic tubes brushes come in? Good for protecting the bristles while you're not using them, right? Wrong. It's too easy to put it wrong and ruin the point. That's what I can remember offhand, there's probably more but 
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May 20, 2014 16:08
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I had the same problem - stop using hot water to wash your brushes! It melts the glue that holds the bristles in the ferrule.
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May 20, 2014 16:14
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Thanks for thiskrushgroove posted:The brushes will sort of spread after a while, but not 'fray' - maybe post a picture of your brushes? It's basically like this: V I get two or more points, which makes detail painting impossible. When dry, the bristles just separate and shoot in all directions like the before look in a shampoo commercial. MasterSlowPoke posted:I had the same problem - stop using hot water to wash your brushes! It melts the glue that holds the bristles in the ferrule. Well poo poo
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May 20, 2014 16:14
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Pierzak posted:Where did you get that hex stencil? I need one. Wargames Bakery are doing pretty extensive range of stencils via a recently completed kickstarter. I don't think they're available for sale yet though http://www.wargamesbakery.co.uk/Stencilis.html
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May 20, 2014 17:00
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signalnoise posted:Thanks for this Random tips I picked up over the years. 1. Saliva is a good conditioner for brushes (albeit disgusting). I normally lick my brushes after every session of painting prior to storage. You can lick to reform tips as well, but it's almost certainly a health hazard and I would probably get hauled up for suggesting you do so. 2. If you have paint caked into the ferrule because you overloaded the brush and it's now gone hard, washing in plastic weld/dichloromethane will get it out and *may* resuscitate your brush. 3. Contrary to what Pierzak said, those plastic tips are great for protecting your brushes unless you're a spaz and can't put them on properly. A trick is to feed the tip of the brush in at an angle, and once you've gotten the tip inside the tube, straighten out and push the whole thing in. I've been doing this for 10 years and I have yet to botch a sheathing. My brushes are more likely to get ruined because I lost the protective cap.
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May 20, 2014 17:37
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Z the IVth posted:You can lick to reform tips as well, but it's almost certainly a health hazard and I would probably get hauled up for suggesting you do so.
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May 20, 2014 18:22
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Do not lick your brushes. Non-toxic does not guarantee that your paints are not, in fact, toxic. It just means no one has proven they've made someone sick before. Spit on your fingers and use them to apply the saliva to the brush.
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May 20, 2014 18:48
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I've been licking my brushes my entire life. This does not mean its a good idea.
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May 20, 2014 21:06
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I wouldn't be surprised if 95% of the people in this thread do, its a really dumb thing to worry about.
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May 20, 2014 21:31
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serious gaylord posted:I've been licking my brushes my entire life. Smoking is 100% hazardous to a person's continued well-being. It isn't "not yet proven to be harmful" it is downright deadly. Yet I bet a not insignificant proportion of this thread smokes. If you want to worry about licking brushes or wearing respirators for airbrushing, stop smoking first. Your body will thank you more for it. I generally thing we as a hobbyist group do tend to worry a lot about many of the chemicals and processes we fiddle with, usually missing the point that people who run into trouble with them are often those who are exposed to them occupationally every day for years. Unless you model warhams for a living, I doubt any of us will accrue enough incidental exposure to any specific hazard to have a statistically significant risk of harm. 
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May 20, 2014 21:46
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The washes taste the worst
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May 20, 2014 21:51
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Licking your brushes gets even less relatively risky if you DUI to the store where you buy your paints. This relative risk can be further diminished by not wearing your seatbelt.
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May 20, 2014 21:53
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We are talking about licking brushes that have been rinsed out in a water pot right? Because if you eat full strength paint off your brush, forget your health, you are just loving gross.
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May 20, 2014 21:56
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Indolent Bastard posted:We are talking about licking brushes that have been rinsed out in a water pot right? Because if you eat full strength paint off your brush, forget your health, you are just loving gross. That's just a terrible way of cleaning your brush. Or 
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May 20, 2014 22:02
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Hellbeard posted:A new figure in 1:56 scale. Just sort of freestyled it. Left arm is out of scale and his tiny beret looks like a toupee, but this is hot toads. I wish more minis had to-scale weapons instead of as-big-as-my-body pew pew makers.
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May 20, 2014 22:05
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Z the IVth posted:Smoking is 100% hazardous to a person's continued well-being. It isn't "not yet proven to be harmful" it is downright deadly. Yet I bet a not insignificant proportion of this thread smokes. This is true. I'm sure I've read multiple times about people buying respirators to assemble forge world models that dont require anything more than clipping off the sprue.
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May 20, 2014 23:13
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All of the FW models I've bought require sanding or filing as well, though, admittedly, the majority of them were Epic scale models.
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May 20, 2014 23:58
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Hellbeard posted:A new figure in 1:56 scale. Just sort of freestyled it. This is loving rad - pardon the dumb question but what's it made out of? On kind of the same page, does anyone have any good greenstuff/general sculpting tutorials? Every time I try using greenstuff it ends up looking lumpy and gross and I'm unsure how to fix that with the sculpting tools I have. I just had a couple ideas for some dumb conversions using the stuff I've found and some minor greenstuff parts but I need to figure out how to do it, first.
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May 21, 2014 00:29
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berzerkmonkey posted:All of the FW models I've bought require sanding or filing as well, though, admittedly, the majority of them were Epic scale models. I'm sure it's not 'good' but is there really enough particulate resin coming off a model you're filing to be meaningfully dangerous to a hobbyist?
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May 21, 2014 00:31
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:I'm sure it's not 'good' but is there really enough particulate resin coming off a model you're filing to be meaningfully dangerous to a hobbyist? You'd have to be sanding resin all day, every day, and inhaling that poo poo through a straw like a coke head for years before it actually caused any health problems. Resin dust is hazardous in large quantities and through constant inhalation, none of which is at all a possible threat to the majority of hobbyists.
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May 21, 2014 01:40
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Finished up some Militarum Tempestus models a while back and finally took them home to take a proper photo:  Still need to do the basing but
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May 21, 2014 02:24
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 21:27 |
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From the Oath thread: What's the problem with Wayland Games, does anyone know? Googling suggests that sometimes they take longer than usual to ship stuff. Is this correct? How bad is it? Is it actually a case of "your money will disappear for months" or are they just a little worse than the competition?
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May 21, 2014 02:39
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