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signalnoise posted:Pin wash? What is a pin wash? Am I washing the whole model or just the recesses or what Rather than washing the entire model haphazardly, it's a controlled wash where you're only using a small amount along the grooves.
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May 31, 2014 17:26
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Does anyone have any tips for working with Reaper Bones minis, the sorta-rubbery white ones? I'm using Krylon Flat Black (a little Short Cuts Craft can, since I wasn't sure how great it would work) to prime things, but they seem to get really sticky afterwards. My metal minis don't have any issues (and seem to be painting up really nicely with the Krylon as a primer), but I'm worried that the spraypaint is like eating the rubbery crap. I don't think I'm using too much or anything, just going for a light coat.
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May 31, 2014 18:56
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Ryoshi posted:Does anyone have any tips for working with Reaper Bones minis, the sorta-rubbery white ones? I'm using Krylon Flat Black (a little Short Cuts Craft can, since I wasn't sure how great it would work) to prime things, but they seem to get really sticky afterwards. My metal minis don't have any issues (and seem to be painting up really nicely with the Krylon as a primer), but I'm worried that the spraypaint is like eating the rubbery crap. Check the OP of the Bones thread, all the tips you need to paint them are there. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3540876&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1 the links you want are at the bottom of the op.
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May 31, 2014 18:58
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LumberingTroll posted:Check the OP of the Bones thread, all the tips you need to paint them are there. Whoa, thanks. I had no idea there was a full thread of this stuff. It looks like they don't even need to be primed in the first place, which is nuts. Unfortunately I've got a sweetass minotaur that is all sticky and gross now and I don't know how to remove the primer without screwing up details. I was really psyched about painting him, too. Nerts. E: Also, some of the pics in that thread make me feel crazy inadequate about my painting skills. Jesus, some of you guys are incredible. Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 19:20 on May 31, 2014 |
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May 31, 2014 19:07
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Ryoshi posted:Does anyone have any tips for working with Reaper Bones minis, the sorta-rubbery white ones? I'm using Krylon Flat Black (a little Short Cuts Craft can, since I wasn't sure how great it would work) to prime things, but they seem to get really sticky afterwards. My metal minis don't have any issues (and seem to be painting up really nicely with the Krylon as a primer), but I'm worried that the spraypaint is like eating the rubbery crap. Pretty much, you don't need to prime them, and some spray primers react poorly with the plastic. Just don't thin your basecoat, and it'll go on just fine and bond to the plastic. Alternately, you can use a brush-on primer or one of the spray primers that doesn't react poorly to Bones. In either case, give them a thorough scrub first to get rid of any possible mold release agent. EDIT: Ninja'd! But yeah, use super green. It won't hurt the plastic. JackMann fucked around with this message at 19:23 on May 31, 2014 |
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May 31, 2014 19:13
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ijyt posted:Rather than washing the entire model haphazardly, it's a controlled wash where you're only using a small amount along the grooves. Well, I'm not sure if this is what you meant, but this is what I came up with 
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May 31, 2014 20:12
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signalnoise posted:Well, I'm not sure if this is what you meant, but this is what I came up with That works. Have fun tonight.
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May 31, 2014 20:30
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signalnoise posted:Well, I'm not sure if this is what you meant, but this is what I came up with Definitely tron!
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May 31, 2014 20:34
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signalnoise posted:Well, I'm not sure if this is what you meant, but this is what I came up with These minis look far better than you realize. Your goals are a bit steep: muted color minis, muted color bases. I painted several Space Marine Apothecary models early on in my commission days, they didn't feel "finished." Little did I realize, a mostly-white model with a mostly-white base is nearly impossible to differentiate. Have you tried an ice grey or ice blue?
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May 31, 2014 21:23
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I was planning on painting the bases some kind of color to represent them that wasn't white actually, once I decide what that is. They'll be going on transparent hexes that I'll be color coding front and rear arcs with clear red and blue. Also thanks! I had been getting really irritated with my ability to shade and blend, so I'm like gently caress it, flat black shadows, high contrast.
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May 31, 2014 21:36
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Goat Bouillabaise posted:Sup there fellow Warrior conversion Crusader buddy? (I think it was me, actually.) Quoting this for the new page. That generator building is awesome and you should be proud of it.
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May 31, 2014 22:53
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I finished a thing, yay! I don't recall who I took the advice from, but using blue to shade black worked out much better!quote:
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Jun 1, 2014 00:20
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OATH COMPLATE
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Lord Hypnostache posted:Question about water effects: How do I actually use them? I got some SW water to use on a couple of bases, but I learned through trial and error that just applying it on a base doesn't magically make stuff look like puddles. So, how do I paint the puddles? There's a few tricks to this. First, you need to model a 'low ground' in the base. You can model a crater or simply avoid putting basing material where you want the puddle to be. Some people go nuts and cut a hole in the base and put another base under it, to cheat extra depth. Then paint the low area the color you want the water to look. I find green-grey to work best, but some people use red for blood pools or brown for gross water. If you're going to matte seal it, this is a good time to do that. But you can brush-on gloss finish to the water if you forget. (It's not that hard really.) It'll look like this:  The green-grey areas are where I'm going to put in the water effects. I like Vallejo, but I haven't heard bad things about any brand. Mix your water effects with some dark ink, slop it in the painted recessed area, and let it dry completely. Afterward, you'll add a second coat or third coat (mixed with ink). Here's a quick one I did for this month's oath thread:  If you apply the water effects in an uneven and patchy way, it looks much less like standing water. This is a good effect for battle or action scenes.
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Jun 1, 2014 00:25
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So, I've never been one to do freehand but I'd like to do it for my Skaven. Does anyone have an idea in regards to how I should go about doing the triangular pattern as seen here: I suppose a micropen is an option but I'd rather not have to go buy something fairly pricey. ijyt fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 00:26
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Normally I'd say  But honestly, gently caress that. You'd need to be Joe Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 01:13
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Fearless posted:Quoting this for the new page. That generator building is awesome and you should be proud of it. Thanks, buddy. I got my moments, at least.
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Jun 1, 2014 02:39
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ijyt posted:So, I've never been one to do freehand but I'd like to do it for my Skaven. Does anyone have an idea in regards to how I should go about doing the triangular pattern as seen here: Consider printing it out and painting over the thing. Heck, I've even done that with decals since the decals didn't blend in as well.
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Jun 1, 2014 02:45
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ijyt posted:So, I've never been one to do freehand but I'd like to do it for my Skaven. Does anyone have an idea in regards to how I should go about doing the triangular pattern as seen here: Oh, hi, I've been working on a Lamenters force for some time, lots of checkered black/white patterns, same concept as what you're looking at. Don't do it! Triangles would be even harder to do. I suggest going with the "print it out" suggestion with a slight twist: go to a fabric store and see if you can find patterned cloth. You can cut it, tatter it, then cover it in lacquer or gesso or white glue and mold it into place. Once dry, you can paint the center cream/white and paint the final army sigil.
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Jun 1, 2014 02:55
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who here plays iron warriors? bulbasaur? reveal to me your hazard stripe secrets
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Jun 1, 2014 02:59
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So who else is pulling a last minute marathon painting session to try to squeeze in before oath? I know i can't be the only one.
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Jun 1, 2014 04:59
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MisterG posted:Consider printing it out and painting over the thing. Heck, I've even done that with decals since the decals didn't blend in as well. Yeah that's definitely something you print out and weather. Don't feel like that's cheating - It's basically the same as a decal.
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Jun 1, 2014 07:55
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Accidentally put this in the main 40k threadThe Sisko posted:Did the wash on the axe like you guys said and they turned out great. Just a few small details and these guys will be done.
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Jun 1, 2014 08:52
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:who here plays iron warriors? bulbasaur? Thin Tamiya tape. It's 6mm across. If that's too thick, you can get vinyl bodylining tape 3mm or even 2mm across. Paint the yellow, varnish, tape, paint the black.
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Jun 1, 2014 10:11
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signalnoise posted:Pin wash? What is a pin wash? Am I washing the whole model or just the recesses or what Pin washes are best achieved using oil paints. I posted a thing about a while ago. SUPER NEAT TOY posted:who here plays iron warriors? bulbasaur? I use blue painters tape for large areas. For things like this guys backpack and chainsaw thing:  ... I use a micron pen and then weather it with a little bit of rubbing alcohol
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Jun 1, 2014 10:21
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Those stripes are gorgeous! Really look aged and realistic.SUPER NEAT TOY posted:who here plays iron warriors? bulbasaur? The way I do hazard stripes is to get a solid coat of yellow, then use a fine detail brush to put in the edges of the black stripes. Do one movement with enough paint on the brush and you should get a thin straight line. After that, grab a larger brush and fill in the black between the thin stripes.  Definitely more cartoony than the above method, probably slower too. The Supreme Court fucked around with this message at 10:29 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 10:26
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Thanks for the banner advice guys, I wound up finding a .svg someone made for printing out onto decal paper which has a bunch of patterns on it, so I'll probably end up using that if the paper isn't too expensive.
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Jun 1, 2014 10:30
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I think I've found my color scheme for my Tyranids: Hive Fleet Eviscera (I feel like 14-year old me coming up with that name!)    commander's-eye view from the tabletop Definitely going for the Aliens color of dark green and the flesh color came out nice. I could do highlights and more but in the end these guys will be shoveled off the table in droves so I wanted something that was quick and easy. The airbrushing took no time at all, the brushwork (carapace and then the flesh wash) took about 2.5 minutes per model. I could drybrush highlights but meh. I’ll put more work into the big models though! And I've got a ton of them to do... step-by-step on my painting blog and also in the Oath Thread, it's all Badger, from the primers (Stynylrez works really nicely!), base coats (Minitaire Ancient Bone) to candy colors (Ghost Tint Oil Discharge & Green for the carapace, Magenta for the details). Flesh wash is Lester Burley's recipe.
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Jun 1, 2014 10:33
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:who here plays iron warriors? bulbasaur? Base coat white/yellow, paint them stripes. Br prepared to make touchups.
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Jun 1, 2014 14:31
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So this Inquisitor 28 thing is really fun to build models for.   Pictures taken a couple minutes before priming, and I'm really looking forward to slapping some paint on these.
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Jun 1, 2014 19:11
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BirdieBedtime posted:So this Inquisitor 28 thing is really fun to build models for. I really like the Iron Hands legs on the Iron Warrior torso. Looks pimp. So pimp, in fact, that you just persuaded me to get a few sets for my future apothecaries
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Jun 1, 2014 20:24
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Crossposting:Forums Terrorist posted:At platoon level an armoured car is an excellent bit of support. Also if it's German early war, then the Panzer 38(t) or the Panzer III Ausf. F would be good tanks to look for.
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Jun 1, 2014 20:31
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Taking a short break from painting Steel Legion to dick around with possible allies like maybe some Blood Angels and some Armageddon Ork hunters. The hunters are basically made of the left overs from cultist and catachan kits but I'm trying to think of a way to model some like ork trophies or whatever. 
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Jun 1, 2014 21:28
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Any of you guys got any extra bits for the High Elf skycutter eagle? Or know where I can buy that sprue from the skycutter box? Not a viking fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 22:24
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BirdieBedtime posted:So this Inquisitor 28 thing is really fun to build models for. Woah where can I read more about this? Also those look excellent.
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Jun 1, 2014 22:31
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moths posted:Woah where can I read more about this? Also those look excellent. I assume he's talking about this: Blog http://inq28.blogspot.co.uk/ Forums http://s3.zetaboards.com/The_Ammobunker/forum/3012277/ Files http://www.mediafire.com/MarcoSkoll#kntyjpqsccv3a Inquisitor using 40k scale models. Looks pretty rad.
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Jun 1, 2014 23:23
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Not a viking posted:Any of you guys got any extra bits for the High Elf skycutter eagle? I'm in Canada and have ordered a few things from Bitzbarn in the last year and they're still around. On a different note, can anyone link me to or post pictures of cool chaos dwarf colours or paint schemes? They don't have to be Chaos DwarvesTM, since I've got a small army of Mantic Abyssal Dwarves to paint.
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Jun 1, 2014 23:35
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BirdieBedtime posted:So this Inquisitor 28 thing is really fun to build models for. God drat are those nice models. Makes a world of difference to not have "hero" scale weapons and some empty hands to make them come alive more. When Inquistor came out my brother and I immediately decided we would just play with 40k minis. We never even got the book, eventually downloaded it when GW put the .pdf up for free.
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Jun 2, 2014 01:14
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Thanks for the comments! Moola was spot-on; in fact, I hadn't noticed that INQ28 had started to update again. I've mostly been following these three or four blogs. Honestly I've found this not even skirmish-scale gaming to be very liberating for my modeling. I've always been very slow getting forces together because I tend to lavish attention on even line troopers when assembling them, so not having to worry about getting more than six or seven models done at a time makes me enjoy it much more. Extra content: some Alpha Legionnaires that I put together three years ago or so, to count-as an Obliterator. 
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Jun 2, 2014 02:32
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Update on my Rune Priests and my counts-as Logan Grimnar and Arjac Rockfist 
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Jun 2, 2014 02:52
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Had some time this weekend and whipped a Janissa Stonetide out and got some Whelps started. Janissa was really a joy to paint, not like any other model I've painted before.
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Jun 2, 2014 03:42
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