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Tanks for the recommendations, will try a sepia wash... And a red wash, should go nicely with my primarily red skorne to tie the colour scheme together.
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Jun 2, 2014 23:14
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Tadhg posted:That would be cool if it's not too much trouble. I don't think my FLGS stocks P3 (Just Citadel, Tamiya, and a huge amount of both Vallejo Model and Game Color.) So picking up a pot to test it out isn't possible, and online ordering for just a pot of paint seems silly unless I know it'll be worth it. No problem, it won't be straight away as thanks to the joys of kids, most of my painting stuff is tucked away in a box in the garage and painstakingly dragged out maybe once a week for a spot of painting, but when I do get them out I'll remember to do you a comparison 
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Jun 2, 2014 23:22
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Could I get some criticism and advice on the Judicator I'm painting for a friend? I like my white, most of my sanguine. I'm not 100% on the gold (VLQ old gold + brown wash) I really don't think my OSL on the vents looks right, but can't figure out what it's missing. White in the middle?  Gallery here - http://imgur.com/a/WbLmu Harkano fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 23:50
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Harkano posted:I really don't think my OSL on the vents looks right, bit can't figure out what it's missing. White in the middle? Also, try not to highlight OSL by hue (you want darker yellow-lighter yellow, not orange->yellow, even if they're the same brightness). Next, I'd wash the poo poo out of that gold with Devlan Mud or equivalent, it could really use strong shadows in the recesses. Liquid Gold likes Devlan Mud better than sepia/flesh (unless you have the old Flesh Wash, that should work too). And touch up the edges, there are some places where paint overlaps that don't really belong on a $100 model. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 23:55
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So, I decided my collection was missing a Mat rack.. so I made one. 
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Jun 3, 2014 01:16
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I posted a month ago saying I'd finished painting my first figure (a Tyranid warrior). Feedback was really positive so I thought I'd post what I'd done since then. I've completed 3 Tyranid warriors, then to mix it up a bit picked up a Cryx Battlegroup and polished that off (except bases). Still a lot of room to improve but I'm having a great time so far.    
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Jun 3, 2014 01:54
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Weirdo posted:Sorry for repeating myself, but does anyone have any painting guides for some Abyssal Dwarves? I've got that same box and ran into the same wall a few months ago. I'm absolutely seconding this request - and just realized I've got the old WHFB Chaos Dwarf book packed in a box somewhere.
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Jun 3, 2014 02:08
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Two weird questions: 1) How do you guys deal with parts of the model that are really hard to access? I'm painting this cool dragonborn guy (03436: Dragonman Warrior from Reaper if you want to look it up) but it's drat near impossible to see what his loincloth-cape thing (loincape?) is doing between his legs and behind the shield. How am I supposed to deal with that? I'm thinking I could whip out my soldering station Helping Hand thing to hold it at the right angle and get some magnification in there but even then I don't know how to paint clean in there. I realize that since it won't get seen a whole lot it's probably a nonissue, but I'm just looking for general tips. 2) For the same model - does anyone have any tips on getting a nice metallic color? I'm doing the armor with a mix of blue and chainmail (from the Army Painter set someone recommended - it's basically Ultramarine blue and Chainmail silver from what I can tell/remember), the basecoat using a ton of the chainmail and then progressively more blue/less metal as I work up the highlighted parts. I'll probably end up doing a reaaaaally faint chainmail highlight on the edge of each armor piece when I'm done but I'm wondering if there's a "standard" way to do this since right now I'm just guessing. It's a hell of a sweet mini though and I'm having a great time with it so far. The gold-wash chat on the last page or so has been helpful too since I'm going with gold for his kneepads and armor embellishments. Thanks again for everyone that's given me advice already, too!
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Jun 3, 2014 02:22
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LumberingTroll posted:So, I decided my collection was missing a Mat rack.. so I made one. Renting an apartment makes me miss hobby rooms  Harkano posted:Could I get some criticism and advice on the Judicator I'm painting for a friend? You could try giving the brightest, crispest, edges of the gold a very bright line of silver to highlight it.
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Jun 3, 2014 02:29
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Can someone tell me how tall a P3 Paint pot is? in mm if possible.
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Jun 3, 2014 02:34
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LumberingTroll posted:Can someone tell me how tall a P3 Paint pot is? in mm if possible. Seems like 50mm exactly.
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Jun 3, 2014 02:40
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Gumdrop Larry posted:Seems like 50mm exactly. Thanks, working on a paint rack that will work for GW and PP paints. annoying little fuckers that they are.. Edit: Here is what Ive got so far, keeping in line with my dropper bottle design, it is a little taller than the other though, and it holds 48 instead of 50 as the dropper bottle one does. 
LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Jun 3, 2014 |
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Jun 3, 2014 02:46
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LumberingTroll posted:Thanks, working on a paint rack that will work for GW and PP paints. annoying little fuckers that they are.. Slightly OT lasercutter chat. Is that sketchup? How do you find it? I'm designing some lasercut necromunda-esque terrain in qcad at the moment and it's hurting my brain.
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Jun 3, 2014 03:08
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Vondizimo posted:Slightly OT lasercutter chat. Is that sketchup? How do you find it? I'm designing some lasercut necromunda-esque terrain in qcad at the moment and it's hurting my brain. Sketchup is dirt simple, and cheap, I use an addon to export the face of each part in vector into illustrator and send the sheets from there to the laser.
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Jun 3, 2014 03:15
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Ah, Illustrator! I'm doing it on a budget of nothing, sadly. The face export sounds interesting, modelling things and then breaking them down is tedious. 
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Jun 3, 2014 03:19
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Vondizimo posted:Ah, Illustrator! I'm doing it on a budget of nothing, sadly. The face export sounds interesting, modelling things and then breaking them down is tedious. You can use Inkscape. which is another vector software and its free.
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Jun 3, 2014 03:29
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I finished a Cygnar army.
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Jun 3, 2014 04:08
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LumberingTroll posted:Thanks, working on a paint rack that will work for GW and PP paints. annoying little fuckers that they are.. Have you thought of working something up for Badger's Minitaire/Golden's Fluid Acrylics?
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Jun 3, 2014 04:13
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Karnegal posted:Have you thought of working something up for Badger's Minitaire/Golden's Fluid Acrylics? Yeah, its on my list, I am also doing one for the generic craft paints. these two will be similar to the dropper bottle style.
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Jun 3, 2014 04:39
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crime fighting hog posted:I finished a Cygnar army. Did you use the Privateer Press Brazen brass on them? I'm looking for Chaos dwarf ideas and your black/blue and metals look really great, I'd love to hear how you achieved that look.
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Jun 3, 2014 04:42
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I don't have access to P3 paints so I have to use GW ones. The brass is actually gold washed black and just highlighted again. I used a medium and bright blue at 1:1 mix for the basecoat, did a zenith highlight with the airbrush of the lighter blue and then airbrushed Asurman blue wash over it before some edge highlights. The shoulder pads on the jacks are thunderhawk blue washed black. Really it was easy to paint, just tedious because it was the first project I've had since moving back home. Good to do though. Next up is an entire black legion army.
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Jun 3, 2014 04:46
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crime fighting hog posted:I don't have access to P3 paints so I have to use GW ones. Oh! If that's the case, I've been given a good chunk of the old GW paints, so I'm guessing you used some Nuln oil over Gehenna's gold? I've got the modern equivalent of Asurman and Thunderhawk Blue as well, so I'm curious to see how well the dark colours like on your jacks work for new black leather on my dorfs.
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Jun 3, 2014 05:53
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Decided to take a break from my space wolves today and instead I worked with my airbrush on many different little things. Most notably I worked on my little brothers Crimson Fist's which I've been using the minitaire ghost tints to great effect. I just wanted to post this WIP combat squad for your thoughts/criticisms.
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Jun 3, 2014 08:32
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Weirdo posted:Sorry for repeating myself, but does anyone have any painting guides for some Abyssal Dwarves? You should go to https://www.chaos-dwarfs.com
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Jun 3, 2014 09:24
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The Sisko posted:Decided to take a break from my space wolves today and instead I worked with my airbrush on many different little things. Most notably I worked on my little brothers Crimson Fist's which I've been using the minitaire ghost tints to great effect. I just wanted to post this WIP combat squad for your thoughts/criticisms. These are looking really cool. If you weren't going to already, I'd suggest painting the bolter casing in black to break up the blue.
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Jun 3, 2014 09:41
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Crossposting a conversion/bits-related question from the Specialist Games thread: what bits sites (preferably in the USA) do you guys recommend for getting things such as Empire bits and bobs to add character to a figure? I recently decided to get back into Mordheim, and a couple of different sites recommended using the Perry Miniatures Mercenaries box (from their War of the Roses range, I believe) as a cheap way to get some Empire-style figures (I'm splitting the cost with someone so we'll both get enough guys to do up a couple of human/Empire warbands apiece). I also saw some pics online where someone used a few GW Empire bits on the Perry figures that didn't look like they were suffering from encephalitis or anything, which also sold me on buying those figures.  So, having not been all that hardcore into the hobby since 2010 or so, what bits sites do you guys recommend (again, preferably in the USA)? I have used Hoard O' Bits previously, but it's been a while since I investigated using any others. I have seen places like Bits Barn and Bitzbox, but never used them, so I figured I'd see what sites you good people recommend.
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Jun 3, 2014 14:17
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Little bit of WIP - 6mm Krieg:  They're more blue than I wanted - I was going for a blue-grey, but Drakenhof Nightshade has a tendency to tint way more blue than the previous Asurmen Blue wash did. Also, FYI, Army Painter Primers are NOT primers. They are highly pigmented, well covering paints, but they are not primers. Granted these are metal models, but the slightest dings were enough to cause the basecoat to chip right off. Krylon flat has far better protection against wear than this stuff. I'm pretty bummed and hope that the paints hold up with game use (they will be varnished, of course.) Speaking of varnish, what is a good alternative to Testors Dullcote? The only local store that carries it charges $6 per can.
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Jun 3, 2014 14:21
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I just use artist's matte. Fiver for a big ol' can and works a treat since it's meant to be used on paintings so it doesn't tint.
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Jun 3, 2014 14:27
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berzerkmonkey posted:Also, FYI, Army Painter Primers are NOT primers. They are highly pigmented, well covering paints, but they are not primers. Granted these are metal models, but the slightest dings were enough to cause the basecoat to chip right off. Krylon flat has far better protection against wear than this stuff. I'm pretty bummed and hope that the paints hold up with game use (they will be varnished, of course.) Did you scrub the models with soapy water first? I've had more problems with greasy GW figures than worth bad Army Painter primer. Did you use spray or brush-only? Their brush on stuff is dicey.
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Jun 3, 2014 14:37
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It was the spray, and I did wash the models first. It just doesn't seem to have the teeth that something like Krylon does. I'm sure that it works fine for plastics, since you don't get the same type of contact you get with metal on metal. Expensive lesson learned.
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Jun 3, 2014 14:48
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Army Painter's spray has been a lifesaver for my Ultramarines, but it was rubbing off the metal of my Razorback's turret ring really badly when I was still handling it and trying to paint it. The turret itself was primed with Krylon white and chipped constantly too. I think even with primer, it'll wear off metal relatively quickly. I had to matte varnish it while I was still painting it just to keep the paint from rubbing off. 
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Jun 3, 2014 15:02
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I wonder if some colors are better than others. I've had some Army Painter colors make Bones tacky while other colors worked perfectly.
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Jun 3, 2014 15:50
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pouge posted:I've completed 3 Tyranid warriors, then to mix it up a bit picked up a Cryx Battlegroup and polished that off (except bases). Still a lot of room to improve but I'm having a great time so far. Oh hush, the Tyranids look great as usual. I'm not hot to trot about the purple on your Cryx bros, though, it's very flat and also an unfortunate shade of plum or eggplant. I'm not sure how to break it up, maybe dithering one half of it, decals.
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Jun 3, 2014 16:34
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Pimp Cryx is pretty tight. You can go two ways with it: either ultra gloss for a hotrod finish or weather it into a gross infected mess.
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Jun 3, 2014 16:50
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Not a viking posted:You should go to https://www.chaos-dwarfs.com Perfect! Also it seems the Easterlings from the LOTR line have a good colour scheme as well to get some ideas for my dwarves.
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Jun 3, 2014 17:31
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berzerkmonkey posted:
Army painter matte is pretty good, I've heard its rebranded Dullcote. Not sure of the price differential though. A tip for protecting paintjobs - varnish twice with gloss first before you apply the matte. The gloss coats tend to be tougher.
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Jun 3, 2014 19:05
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Z the IVth posted:A tip for protecting paintjobs - varnish twice with gloss first before you apply the matte. The gloss coats tend to be tougher.
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Jun 3, 2014 19:12
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berzerkmonkey posted:I'm usually cool with Dullcote - I try not to be too rough on my models. It was more of a cost issue, more than anything. Liquitex matte varnish works fine, can be bought at Michaels or Hobby Lobby (with a 40% off coupon) and sprayed through an airbrush. 
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Jun 3, 2014 19:27
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Question about panel lines and detail. I want to do up some warjacks in my Retribution army like they've got glowing green energy coming out of the panel lines, but I'm not sure how to best do that when one of the major colors is going to be a candycoat red. Normally I'd do a gloss layer of future and then just use enamels and lighter fluid to wash the lines, but green and red paint don't play well together without some sort of intermediary to keep them from muddying each other in my experience. I was thinking to do two washes, one white then one green, but I don't know how well that would work. Advice?
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Jun 3, 2014 19:50
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So I always see talk of sealing models with airbrushes. How do those of us without air brushes to about accomplishing said task?
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Jun 3, 2014 20:23
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