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bung posted:I bought the harbor freight creeper and got it for about $22 with a coupon. It's the same one Advance Auto sells for $50. I haven't tried it out yet. I have one of these. Rolling over the drop-light cord and the old rug I keep under my Jeep hardly slows it down.
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May 31, 2014 07:28
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two forty posted:I should have at least used some cardboard. I spent about six hours laying on an epoxy-painted garage floor and woke up sore all over. Neck, shoulders, chest, back, stomach, and the back of my head. I wasnt even breaking stuck bolts or anything. Is this is what getting old feels like? I'm 25, what in the hell. Now I know how my dad felt when I roped him into helping me with car poo poo ten years ago.  One of my fingers recently started acting up, like there's gravel in the joint. I'm not supposed to get arthritis at 28, goddammit. Start working out, though. It helps with the muscle soreness stuff.
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May 31, 2014 09:47
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Preoptopus posted:Well I appreciate the one and only input! I have the Snap-On one. It's great. I loving hate those hose clamps, though, so every time I use the tool to take one off I replace it with a gear clamp. Also I don't remember if I said anything good about Mastercraft ratchets, but gently caress 'em. My 3/8" drive ratchet has probably a quarter of an inch of play back and forth, and the thing sounds like poo poo when it rotates. The 1/4" and 1/2" ones have more play than I'd like, but 3/8" is the worst. I've only had them for like 6 months. My plan is to use it until it breaks, warranty it and leave the new one at home, and use my Craftsman one at work until it breaks and I throw it out (because there are so few Sears around here), and then buy a set of Snap-on ones.
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Jun 1, 2014 06:57
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Hey, so, emailed Harbor Freight coupons. Do I actually have to print them out, or can I take a picture of the one I want to use with my phone and show the person that?
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Jun 1, 2014 08:45
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Safety Dance posted:Hey, so, emailed Harbor Freight coupons. Do I actually have to print them out, or can I take a picture of the one I want to use with my phone and show the person that? Whenever I go to my local harbor freight I am surprised that the cashiers can even manage to use paper coupons.
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Jun 1, 2014 15:23
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Safety Dance posted:Hey, so, emailed Harbor Freight coupons. Do I actually have to print them out, or can I take a picture of the one I want to use with my phone and show the person that? I get mine from retailmenot and they always have a numerical code at the bottom. The cashiers just punch in that number.
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Jun 1, 2014 15:41
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I always print them out, and the cashier always marks the barcodes out with a pen so I can't use them again. I wonder if they'd want to mark on my phone. The barcode and item images are separate, so just saving pictures becomes tedious collage work.
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Jun 1, 2014 15:43
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Safety Dance posted:Hey, so, emailed Harbor Freight coupons. Do I actually have to print them out, or can I take a picture of the one I want to use with my phone and show the person that? Mine's fine with scanning my phone.
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Jun 1, 2014 16:12
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:The barcode and item images are separate, so just saving pictures becomes tedious collage work. Dunno what phone you have, but most (?) have a screenshot feature. Mine (Galaxy Nexus) is holding the power and volume down buttons together for a couple of seconds. Or, Print Screen on your keyboard if your at a desktop.
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Jun 1, 2014 16:15
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The guy at Harbor Freight said that "Just This Once" (tm) he would accept a picture of a coupon on my phone. He said that normally, I should just pull up the email on my phone and he would take that. I don't know why I decided to take a photo of my email aside from the fact that I'm not the brightest bulb sometimes.
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Jun 2, 2014 00:25
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two forty posted:I guess this fits in this thread: do you guys use creepers when you work under your cars? For years I've been sliding in and out from under cars on ramps/stands, and today especially I wished a had one. I have a couple creepers, but never use them for pretty much the same reasons everyone else has mentioned. The surface I work on these days isn't smooth enough, I slide around on it annoyingly when I try to put torque on things, and the loss of clearance annoys the poo poo out of me. I use these guys these days. Kardboard krew needs to check this poo poo out. They're waterproof so you can put them over wet areas without it soaking through, automotive fluids hose off of them, and they're a poo poo ton softer / more comfortable than cardboard. Also nice because you can put them over little rocks / cracks / whatever in your work area and not have that poo poo slice up your back through the mats.
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Jun 2, 2014 02:10
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I made a thing today! I was looking for a 12 volt light with alligator clips to hook onto my battery so I can see when I inevitably have to fix something on this heap in the middle of the night on a pitch black road, and couldn't find something that fit exactly what I was looking for and also fit my budget at the same time. Bulb (recommended to me by a friend) was $18.99 shipped, the drop light was $8 but only came with a 6 foot cord so I put my own 15 footer on there, and the alligator clips I had in the drawer. No pic of the light itself while it is on, since it was completely washing out the image. The bulb I used is this one if anyone is interested. The last thing I want to do is to figure out a plastic cover to go over the bulb because it looks to be a bitch to clean if I drip something nasty on it. Light off  Light on    Closeup 
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Jun 2, 2014 02:29
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What are those sockets that engage the flats of a bolt called? I need a set to remove rusted to poo poo exhaust bolts/studs.
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Jun 2, 2014 02:36
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Snap-On calls them "Flank Drive". I don't know what other companies call it.
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Jun 2, 2014 03:11
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That's the one. Out of curiosity, is the Griptite stuff any good? I found those looking for the flank drive stuff. edit: Tekton impact sockets were the ones I was thinking of. The internet seems to love them. Griptite's apparently suck. rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 03:19
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Four drawer tool cart from Harbor Freight. Not bad for $99. The top section is just slightly too small to hold my socket set in its case. I don't want to commit to taking it out of its case yet. Excuse the cat toys and cardboard detritus -- I haven't cleaned up after assembling it yet.
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Jun 3, 2014 05:51
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Can you guys tell I'm in the middle of a really big repair? I need another recommendation. I need a chain wrench for the pulleys on engines. Is 24" the standard? Why the hell does the price vary so much? Which ones are good but not outlandishly expensive?
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Jun 4, 2014 03:02
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Safety Dance posted:Four drawer tool cart from Harbor Freight. Not bad for $99. Co worker had one It easily stands the deepest of sockets perfectly with room to spare. You will be amazed how much room you save when you stand your sockets. And honestly what person has sockets too precious not to stand in their HF cart?
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Jun 4, 2014 03:54
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rcman50166 posted:Can you guys tell I'm in the middle of a really big repair? I need another recommendation. I need a chain wrench for the pulleys on engines. Is 24" the standard? Why the hell does the price vary so much? Which ones are good but not outlandishly expensive?
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Jun 4, 2014 18:14
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InitialDave posted:Can you define what it is you're doing a bit better? If it's holding belt pulleys, you want a strap wrench, a chain will really gouge them up. You hit it on the head. I need to hold the main pulley on a '98 subaru legacy outback to get it off. Could I put a piece of leather down between a chain wrench and pulley to avoid damaging it? The Hayes manual I have shows a chain wrench.
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Jun 4, 2014 19:17
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I recommend you first get some 1/2" rope, make a loop a little larger than the pulley, then put it round and twist a breaker bar or other metal bar into the extra loop to make it really tight, and see if that works. Or yes, pad it against the chain damaging it. For doing main crank bolts when I can't lock the flywheel, there are two other techniques that may work: - drill/weld some scrap bar to make it fit onto the smaller bolts holding the pulley on and use that to brace against. - put a piston to the bottom of its compression stroke (so the valves won't open), feed rope from a coil into the cylinder until it's full, and then turn the engine so the piston presses against the mass of rope and locks it. I prefer not to do this on an engine I'm not taking apart, just in case I do something stupid and get the rope stuck in there etc.
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Jun 4, 2014 21:05
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I'm going to start working in a shop soon and I'm looking for some 1/2" air impact recommendations. I was eyeing the aircat 1150 on amazon which seems to be well regarded. Anything else I should be looking at? I don't mind spending some money if it means I'll have it for years to come.
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Jun 5, 2014 00:17
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I've had luck removing crank pulleys by wrapping the old belt around the pulley (grooved side in), then passing a metal bar through the loop that's left, under the car. The pulley should pull the belt tight and pull the bar upwards against the subframe, jamming the pulley. Edit: kinda like pictured here except not using the alternator because that seems pretty sketchy. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 00:56
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Both of those solutions are neat and I feel bad not having thought of either. Thanks.
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Jun 5, 2014 01:07
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Argenteus posted:I'm going to start working in a shop soon and I'm looking for some 1/2" air impact recommendations. I was eyeing the aircat 1150 on amazon which seems to be well regarded. Anything else I should be looking at? I don't mind spending some money if it means I'll have it for years to come. Learn from my mistakes and don't get too big of a gun. I got a Nitrocat 1200K when I started and it's way more gun than I need for just about any task, aside from maybe axle nuts? And if you need to do those that often you'll probably be making enough money to get a second gun. I really want the smaller version of the same model, but it's much harder to justify the $180 now when I already have a (twice as heavy) one that will do all the same tasks. On the other hand, regarding quality, I bought it off a recommendation in this very thread and it's doing great after a year of daily shitbeating. 
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Jun 5, 2014 01:25
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Go for the Nitro cat. I have the 3/8 and the 1/2. I use mine all the time in a lawn mower shop. 8+ hours a day in the nastiest dustiest condition, they just keep on trucking 18 months later no complaints. The 1200k is stronger than my coworkers Matco gun hands down.
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Jun 5, 2014 02:19
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Argenteus posted:I'm going to start working in a shop soon and I'm looking for some 1/2" air impact recommendations. I was eyeing the aircat 1150 on amazon which seems to be well regarded. Anything else I should be looking at? I don't mind spending some money if it means I'll have it for years to come. This is probably a bad recommendation, but I spent quite a bit of time using a (super expensive) snap-on one and it was AMAZING. Like, seriously amazing. That reminds me... I want one. edit:// I am pretty sure it's this one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDjn9GEcwzw Holy poo poo, amazing.
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Jun 5, 2014 02:32
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For chain wrenches, I like the Vise-Grip style ones. Easy to just lock in place so it stays put.
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Jun 5, 2014 02:41
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Looks like the one I have been eyeing is the Nitrocat 1375-XL. Despite the higher product number and the 'XL' on the end, it's the 2.7lb version of the 4.5lb 1200K and "only" clocks 900ft/lbs. They make it in 3/8" drive too, as the 1355-XL.
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Jun 5, 2014 02:54
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Mario posted:For chain wrenches, I like the Vise-Grip style ones. Easy to just lock in place so it stays put. I've got a pair of these. I've yet to use them, but I'm sure I'll love them when I do.
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Jun 5, 2014 04:31
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Argenteus posted:I'm going to start working in a shop soon and I'm looking for some 1/2" air impact recommendations. I was eyeing the aircat 1150 on amazon which seems to be well regarded. Anything else I should be looking at? I don't mind spending some money if it means I'll have it for years to come. I have a super quiet ingersolll rand 2132G I just bought, 600ft-lbs, 82 db. Makes sort of a clicking sound instead of a deafening racket. I really need a 3/8ths hose though, all we get at work is 1/4 inchers 
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Jun 5, 2014 05:08
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900lbft? Thanks for reminding me why a battery impact is a waste of money
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Jun 5, 2014 07:46
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Splizwarf posted:Looks like the one I have been eyeing is the Nitrocat 1375-XL. Despite the higher product number and the 'XL' on the end, it's the 2.7lb version of the 4.5lb 1200K and "only" clocks 900ft/lbs. They make it in 3/8" drive too, as the 1355-XL. It's less than that. That's the "loosening torque" rating (also called breakaway torque, or nut-busting torque). If it's, say 900 ft-lbs, then what it means is that it will loosen a bolt that has been tightened to 900 ft-lbs. That one lists a "working torque" of 100-550 ft-lbs, and you'll only get 550 in reverse. The forward torque will be less. All air impact guns are like this, and I don't know why. Manufacturers like advertising breakaway torque because it lets them put a higher number on the box. FWIW I have the Chicago Pneumatic 7748. I've used it to take off rusted on 3/4" sprocket bolts. Took about 45 seconds of leaning on it, and the only bolt it failed to take off also snapped the head off my 1/2" breaker bar (ultimately I dragged out the shop 3/4" gun and spun it off in a half second). Been beating the poo poo out of this gun for over a year now.
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Jun 5, 2014 08:06
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Cakefool posted:900lbft? Thanks for reminding me why a battery impact is a waste of money You can use a battery impact anywhere.
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Jun 5, 2014 09:44
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I use my 200ft/lb battery impact all the drat time, even when I'm in my garage with air tools next to me. Also I generally find that bolts it can't remove the air gun will also struggle with and I'll usually have to start stacking breaker bars at that point.
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Jun 5, 2014 12:39
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rcman50166 posted:You hit it on the head. I need to hold the main pulley on a '98 subaru legacy outback to get it off. Could I put a piece of leather down between a chain wrench and pulley to avoid damaging it? The Hayes manual I have shows a chain wrench. Put a breaker bar on the crank nut and a jack handle over the end of the breaker bar. Set the whole contraption against the garage floor on the driver's side and bump the starter. Pull a coil or plug wire or two to make sure the car doesn't start.
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Jun 5, 2014 14:44
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Cakefool posted:900lbft? Thanks for reminding me why a battery impact is a waste of money Ingersoll Rand has a cordless one that's rated at 780 lb/ft and 1100lb/ft "nut busting torque", whatever that means.
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Jun 5, 2014 17:44
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Ingersoll Rand has a cordless one that's rated at 780 lb/ft and 1100lb/ft "nut busting torque", whatever that means. Basically, tighten a nut with something calibrated to that torque (ie, not the gun), you should be able to remove it at that torque level. In reading a few blurbs about it, it looks like most impact guns are able to generate higher momentary levels of torque than their consistent output. So in that case, it can consistently generate 780lb-ft, but with momentary surges to 1100lb-ft. That seems consistent with how they work (striking and rotating, not just rotating). Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 17:51
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Unless it's rusted in place in which case hahahaha advertising words. 1100 foot pounds sounds like a lot, but $20 worth of steel pipe (4 feet) and my $20 3/4" breaker bar gives me a 5 foot lever arm. I can easily apply 1100 foot pounds of torque with that, and it works anywhere with no power. Requires the part to be locked in place (i.e. an axle nut is going to spin the axle unless I do this with the wheel on the ground still) but that hasn't stymied me yet.
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Jun 5, 2014 17:57
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I really just need to add a kastein to my tool box. Seems to fix every thing. 
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Jun 5, 2014 18:50
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