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My wife wants to buy me a Harbor Freight special Flux-Core welder. Super cheap, gas free, and I know NOTHING about welding. Thoughts? I'm trying to find different tools I need to complete my "garage," and I'm running out of ideas.
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Jun 9, 2014 19:10
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Frustrating garbage and you'll probably regret buying it once you buy real equipment. Probably work fine for small non-structural odd jobs. Also I wouldn't buy a welder without a grinder.
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Jun 9, 2014 21:49
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itsrobbiej posted:My wife wants to buy me a Harbor Freight special Flux-Core welder. Super cheap, gas free, and I know NOTHING about welding. Thoughts? I'm trying to find different tools I need to complete my "garage," and I'm running out of ideas. The duty cycle is very very short and it starts to violently spit sparks as you approach that limit.
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Jun 9, 2014 21:59
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If you don't have a need for a welder, I would get a fuckoff huge 240V compressor and build a small closet around it to contain the noise. Would probably get a lot more use out of some serious air tools instead of a welder.
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Jun 9, 2014 22:20
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Are there any good places to get Deutsch connectors (or something similar - waterproof, quick disconnect) for 10AWG wire? Everything I'm finding for quick disconnects goes down to about 12-14AWG and won't work for the 10AWG wire I want to run to my light bar. Ideally I'm looking for a 2pin connector, but that's less of an issue than running the right size. Even Mcmaster doesn't seem to. Edit: Ok, maybe I found it on ebay: Female: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUTSCH-DTP-2-PIN-FEMALE-CONNECTOR-KIT-WITH-LOCK-AND-10-12-AWG-TERMINAL-DTP04-2P-/221138245508 Male: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUTSCH-DTP...=item338d5346ff Those should work together, right? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 11, 2014 22:32
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Krakkles posted:Are there any good places to get Deutsch connectors (or something similar - waterproof, quick disconnect) for 10AWG wire? This is where I source mine. http://www.deutschconnector.com/
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Jun 11, 2014 22:43
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Killer. It kind of sucks that each connector is ... like $17 (by the time you buy both sides), but I guess it's the price of doing it right. Thank you! Edit: Best named tool ever: http://www.gerbergear.com/Military/Gear/Ding-Dong_30-000790 Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 11, 2014 22:49
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Krakkles posted:Edit: Best named tool ever: http://www.gerbergear.com/Military/Gear/Ding-Dong_30-000790 I do believe that award goes to this http://www.amazon.com/Dead-On-AN18-Annihilator-Wrecking/dp/B001SEQH1I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1402527362&sr=8-7&keywords=stanley+fubar The Annihilator.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:56
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Am I missing a joke there or something? It annihilates things, it's called the Annihilator ... it's a cool name, but it's not really in my mind clever. "Ding Dong" is a noise we all associate with doorbells, which signify someone wanting to enter through the door ... the breaching ram/hammer/prybar is called the "Ding Dong". Nope, sorry, this is better. Edit: Plus it's a "big, black, ding dong". ....
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Jun 12, 2014 00:01
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Rhyno posted:I do believe that award goes to this 
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Jun 12, 2014 00:24
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I have the FuBar. I honestly use my regular old 36" wrecking bars more, they're better suited to most jobs unless you just need to absolutely, indiscriminately wreck poo poo. The FuBar is great when you have to twist slightly warped framing lumber into position with one hand while nailing it, though. Usually the shorter FuBar (yeah, I have both) is enough to make it comfortable, but occasionally the larger one works better.
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Jun 12, 2014 00:30
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So do Rhino ramps suck or something? There's a whole bunch of reports of them cracking and failing on Amazon reviews, should I get the stronger ones? I've been wanting them to ease oil changes and they would've been fantastic during the exhaust installation. Comedy option? http://www.harborfreight.com/solid-steel-auto-ramp-set-68365.html
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Jun 12, 2014 02:03
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I've got a pair of the 16,000 lb ones and they seem pretty sturdy. Of course I bought the bigger set when I still had my Impala (with plans to get a truck). Now that I've got a Fit they're too big so the air dam thing scrapes going up them and I don't really have enough low end torque to drive up them in a controlled fashion. Jack and jack stands are my preferred vehicle elevation system. At least until I get a house and install a lift in the garage.
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Jun 12, 2014 02:30
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I have jacks and jack stands, ramps seem ideal for quicker oil changes.
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Jun 12, 2014 02:36
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I rotate my tires at every oil change so I might as well just put the car up on stands right at the start. If you don't rotate tires or do it on a different interval then might as well give it a shot. Just make sure the ramps are the right size for your vehicles.
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Jun 12, 2014 02:47
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Rhyno posted:So do Rhino ramps suck or something? There's a whole bunch of reports of them cracking and failing on Amazon reviews, should I get the stronger ones? I've been wanting them to ease oil changes and they would've been fantastic during the exhaust installation. Those HF ramps aren't really a comedy option; they're not a house brand and are actually US made.
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Jun 12, 2014 02:47
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I got mine in a tractor supply place. Nice thick metal ones.
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Jun 12, 2014 02:57
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I like my Rhino ramps. Rubber feet so they don't slide on pavement, never had a tire slip going up or down, light, stackable. The only issue I've had is that they are hard to pry apart after I used them as a seat. I fully understand I should not do this, until my knees start to hurt.
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Jun 12, 2014 03:47
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I've used mine a bunch with no problems. Of course, I stick a set of jackstands under there, too, as an added safety precaution.
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Jun 12, 2014 04:54
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itsrobbiej posted:My wife wants to buy me a Harbor Freight special Flux-Core welder. Super cheap, gas free, and I know NOTHING about welding. Thoughts? I'm trying to find different tools I need to complete my "garage," and I'm running out of ideas. Splurge on the 110v DC (NOT the AC buzzbox) arc welder and auto-dimming helmet. It's tiny and makes great looking welds, unlike the fluxcore splatter machine. It's easy to learn; you should have the hang of it halfway through a box of rods.
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Jun 12, 2014 20:55
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So it's Father's Day and the mrs wants to know what I want other than a blowie and England to win a football match. I am about to start a mini restoration. Like a resto on a mini not a little resto. Anyway I digress. I have basic spammers and sockets for the job and a half decent tool chest. What's next on the list? A set of ramps? Torque wrench? Not rebuilding the engine unless it fubared. Have a mig welder .
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Jun 12, 2014 21:51
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You have both metric and inch sockets/spanners, right? Ramps are always nice although they might not be so useful for a resto job when the wheels have to come off. Do you ahve a solid set of jack stands and a trolley jack? I'd get those first. I always forget about them but a good set of pliers is a god send, especially if you have a range of long and angled needle-nose pairs. There's a ton of jobs I've done I've slapped my forehead going back to the toolbox and remembering they were there after the fact. There's always a big loving sledge for some percussive maintenance too, and random poo poo that you'll only need once in a blue moon like beaing pullers, brake hose flaring tools (a cheap one will possibly drive you to madness).
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Jun 12, 2014 22:03
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jammyozzy posted:You have both metric and inch sockets/spanners, right? I know i have both metric and imperial sockets but might only have metric spanners and odds and sods imperial. That why I kinda want a complete toolbox kit but they are too drat expensive. Something like this suit? http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_818467_langId_-1_categoryId_165572
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Jun 12, 2014 22:13
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Echoing and adding to jammyozzy: 3 or 4 pound hammer, definitely a torque wrench (I prefer the click-type if I'm working alone), at LEAST 4 jack stands, and go get a small length of pipe that will fit over the handle of your ratchets. I've got an 18-ish inch length of copper pipe and it's a godsend. Go get a softer mallet as well. I have a dead-blow (no bounce) hammer with a soft rubber face and a harder vinyl side that I use for stuff that I don't want to trash out with my metal hammer. Also, I don't know if you can get this over there, but it's the best penetrating lubricant I've ever used: http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA Don't feel like you need to go out and drop serious money on top-shelf stuff, but pick up what you can and replace what breaks with better stuff. I've got a cheap Stanley set of sockets/wrenches that I've beat the poo poo out of and haven't broken anything. I have put the ratchets through much more abuse than they should have taken. I'm not sure how it works over there across the pond, but parts stores will usually loan more job-specific tools for a refundable deposit. Coil spring compressors, line flaring tools, steering wheel pullers, etc. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 22:23
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Don't feel like you need to go out and drop serious money on top-shelf stuff, but pick up what you can and replace what breaks with better stuff. I'm not sure how it works over there across the pond, but parts stores will usually loan tools more job-specific tools for a refundable deposit. Coil spring compressors, line flaring tools, steering wheel pullers, etc. Yeah I live in the middle of nowhere and even if I didn't no store would loan stuff out. I have a great contact with a scrap yard and workshop so specialist tool can be borrowed. I have a 3 drawer chest and was given a box of spanners and sockets. I have no idea on whats missing size wise hence the interest in a kit. Are the ratchet spanners good?
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Jun 12, 2014 22:26
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Ratcheting spanners are brilliant in certain situations, but I wouldn't put them first-tier on your shopping list, there are other tools more useful. Also, annoyingly, only metric ones seem to be available in the UK. I'm goign to try and get some imperial sizes when I visit the US. Now, for socket sets, if you're going to buy something from Halfords, get one of their "professional" kits, like this: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_862463_langId_-1_categoryId_255215 They are very good, come with both metric and imperial sockets, and represent excellent value when they are on one of the regular half-price-or-less deals that float around. I know it seems like a big chunk of change, but it's really a one-time purchase, and well worth it. This 90pc one is down to £55, and comes with a freebie of their screwdriver set, which are themselves decent: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_862455_langId_-1_categoryId_255215 Sign up for Machine Mart's emails etc, you will occasionally get offers of 15% off Clarke branded kit, 10% off name brands. Their stuff is perfectly serviceable, and a good balance of price vs performance. Get a basic impact driver like this to go with your lump hammer: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht101-1-2in-drive-impact-screwdriver-se?da=1&TC=SRC-impact%20driver They work well on nuts and bolts, but their party trick is letting you actually remove corroded cross-head screws without having to start cutting things. If a phillips screw even looks at me funny, I pull this out rather than attempt to use a screwdriver and trashing it anyway. Yes, you should get a torque wrench for rebuilding stuff, but right now you'll be mainly stripping stuff, so I say prioritise getting the beefiest breaker bar you can find. Get some wire brushes - not the traditional wooden ones, they never seem to fit where you want them, I prefer the narrow ones like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steel-Wir...=item2eccbc7cb3 And some penetrating oil/fluid. I like Plusgas because it's good value (available as pure liquid, not an aerosol), but anything that's specifically a penetrating oil for loosening nuts etc is way better than WD40 and the like. To clean oily/greasy things up, Gunk is good, but gets expensive if you use a lot of it. I prefer to use something like paraffin to get the worst off with my initial scrubbing, then use Gunk for a final pass to get off any remaining oiliness. Gloves: My preference is cheap disposable vinyl gloves worn under a pair of mechanic's gloves (I find the fabric of the latter still lets oil through). My preferred outer gloves are the Gorilla Grip brand that Landie specialist Paddocks sell, as they're cheap and you still have reasonable feel through them: http://www.paddockspares.com/land-rover-tools-diagnostics/gorilla-grip-gloves.html To further the "fighting chance of your woman letting you touch her after you've been working on the car" cause, good hand cleaner - obviously there's Swarfega, which is good, but (if they still sell it), Lidl's "W5" brand stuff is the best I've ever used. thegasman2000 posted:I am about to start a mini restoration. Like a resto on a mini not a little resto. Boaz MacPhereson posted:Coil spring compressors  .
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Jun 12, 2014 23:03
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awesome help thanks! Project thread starting soon!
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Jun 12, 2014 23:09
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InitialDave posted:Yes, you should get a torque wrench for rebuilding stuff, but right now you'll be mainly stripping stuff, so I say prioritise getting the beefiest breaker bar you can find. I've got this Sealey one http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000O619PA and it's been really really good so far. Also seconding the Halfords Professional range of stuff. Impressed.
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Jun 12, 2014 23:12
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meltie posted:I've got this Sealey one http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000O619PA and it's been really really good so far. Also seconding the Halfords Professional range of stuff. Impressed.
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Jun 12, 2014 23:31
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InitialDave posted:Incoming Hey man, they just saved my bacon. Hard to compress the springs by weight alone when there's no engine in the car 
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Jun 13, 2014 04:52
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Galler posted:I rotate my tires at every oil change so I might as well just put the car up on stands right at the start. If you don't rotate tires or do it on a different interval then might as well give it a shot. Just make sure the ramps are the right size for your vehicles. I get free rotations at Tire Barn so I don't have to worry about that. metallicaeg posted:Those HF ramps aren't really a comedy option; they're not a house brand and are actually US made. Hmmm. SNiPER_Magnum posted:I like my Rhino ramps. Rubber feet so they don't slide on pavement, never had a tire slip going up or down, light, stackable. The only issue I've had is that they are hard to pry apart after I used them as a seat. I fully understand I should not do this, until my knees start to hurt. With my luck they'll shatter as I roll the car up. QuarkMartial posted:I've used mine a bunch with no problems. Of course, I stick a set of jackstands under there, too, as an added safety precaution. This was also the plan.
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Jun 13, 2014 04:59
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Hey man, they just saved my bacon. Hard to compress the springs by weight alone when there's no engine in the car Incoming 'sperg: Minis came with rubber cone suspension from birth ('59) to '64 then switching to hydrolastic, but coming back again in '69 ('70 for the 1275) for cost saving. As far as I know no production mini came with springs?
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Jun 13, 2014 07:38
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Hey man, they just saved my bacon. Hard to compress the springs by weight alone when there's no engine in the car Cakefool posted:Minis came with rubber cone suspension from birth ('59) to '64 then switching to hydrolastic, but coming back again in '69 ('70 for the 1275) for cost saving. As far as I know no production mini came with springs? Put 'em on the shelf next to the Corvair radiator 
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Jun 13, 2014 08:44
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ALRIGHT. It was an example... Sorry I'm not that knowledgeable on wacky British go-kart suspension. 
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Jun 13, 2014 15:14
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Looking to pick up an air compressor to replace our current one. This is for the shop. We do mostly air tools and the occasional spray gun 50 dollar paint job on poop cars. HF look too low power, sears looks to have some better stuff. Any recommendations?
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Jun 13, 2014 16:11
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Slow is Fast posted:Looking to pick up an air compressor to replace our current one. This is for the shop. I bought a 60-gallon from Home Depot and I've been pretty happy with it. It was only 400 bucks and does 11.5 CFM at 90psi. It leaked on day one but HD sent a guy to my house to replace the regulator. Aside from that, it's been great. Harbor Freight sells a similar model that costs more. EDIT: Just checked the Harbor freight unit is actually little more powerful. I think if you need more than 15CFM (what in the world for??) you need to look at a real unit. revmoo fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 13, 2014 |
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Jun 13, 2014 16:26
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Lowes has a nice campbell hausfeld for $800. Much nicer than any of the box store brands and easier to find parts and service. Don't buy harbor freight air compressors.
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Jun 13, 2014 17:34
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The compressor will be for a home shop so I don't really need professional grade. I think we have a 5 horse oil craftsman on a small tank cart now now. I'm really hoping to get out the door for under 300.
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Jun 13, 2014 17:50
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I swear I post the same thing every few months. 1) Go through your tools and find the one that draws the most CFM. You can now base what compressor you choose off it. Want to run air tools and paint? 5-8 CFM. Want to run a $199 harbor freight sand blaster? 10+ CFM. 2) Stay away from oil-free. I can't say this enough. 3) There's only a handful of compressor manufactures. Campbell Hausfeld is what you see at 90% of big box stores, including Home Depot, Lowes, and even Harbor Freight. They provide OEM pumps for several brands. 4) Watch out for over rating. Not only on the motors (5hp PEAK = 3.5hp running, always check the actual motor amps), but on the compressors too, I've seen some scamish "12cfm" peak bullshit the last time I was looking. I could rant more, but I will make this quick. Don't buy a compressor from Sears, you will regret it. For $300 you can find a used 60gal Husky/Campbell on craigslist that's much, much better.
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Jun 13, 2014 18:15
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Buy the biggest, best model you can afford when it comes to compressors. I have yet to ever go wrong with this logic. Unless your moving the god drat thing every week. Then I suggest a F350 with a utility box and a gas powered compressor attached to the truck.
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Jun 13, 2014 18:46
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