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Reminds me, I need to figure out where to get whatever parts my new-to-me 6hp 60 gallon CH compressor needs. The electrical side of things is definitely somewhat, ummm, "modified." I bet ereplacementparts has em, but is there a better place?
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Jun 13, 2014 18:54
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At some point, I need to sort out making something with the compressor I got off ebay. It turned out it was a Tamrotor E6 screw compressor. It's rated at 158cfm max. I have absolutely no idea what I'm going to do with it.
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Jun 13, 2014 19:08
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InitialDave posted:At some point, I need to sort out making something with the compressor I got off ebay. Holy poo poo. You'll need a hell of a motor to push that thing to 158 CFM. Those are very nice and very expensive pumps.
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Jun 13, 2014 21:01
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Cost me about £90, including an oil separator/cooler assembly and a drive gearbox - it was off some kind of utility truck, so there's a gearbox that went inline with the propshaft to give a PTO drive to it. I was looking for a PTO compressor to fit Land Rovers! Didn't realise what it was until I got it home and cleaned it up. I'm thinking a small diesel engine may be my best bet for running it. A friend of mine used to design compressed air systems for factories etc, I'll see if I can rope him in to help - going to be at the tail end of my current project list, though, I don't actively need it. I'm not even sure if I may not be better to give it a clean up and sell it on - but who the hell to?
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Jun 13, 2014 21:21
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Power it with a Mini engine.
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Jun 13, 2014 21:28
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kastein posted:Reminds me, I need to figure out where to get whatever parts my new-to-me 6hp 60 gallon CH compressor needs. The electrical side of things is definitely somewhat, ummm, "modified." http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/search/air-compressor-accessories_facet I think they have everything, I don't know if they are more or less in price.
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Jun 13, 2014 21:28
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jammyozzy posted:Power it with a Mini engine. Then build yourself a composed air powered car and charge it at home with this thing 
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Jun 13, 2014 21:33
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jammyozzy posted:Power it with a Mini engine. Not sure how best to make it cut in/out when it hits the required pressure, things like that. I guess that's the downside of using a combustion engine rather than an electric motor. Cakefool posted:Then build yourself a composed air powered car and charge it at home with this thing
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Jun 13, 2014 21:41
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Gas power compressors use a valve that opens to release the pressure from the pump side so the engine only has to maintain idle once the tank is full. I can't remember the name. Dump valve maybe?
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Jun 13, 2014 21:50
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Hmm, ok, I'll see if it's fitted with one. With it having the PTO gearbox, I wasn't sure if it used that to engage/disengage the drive.
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Jun 13, 2014 21:52
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So what are you guys using for cutting fluid? I've got about a quarter inch of lame steel to put a few holes in and my bit is... not great. No access to a press either, unfortunately.
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Jun 14, 2014 03:47
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:So what are you guys using for cutting fluid? I've got about a quarter inch of lame steel to put a few holes in and my bit is... not great. No access to a press either, unfortunately. Rapid Tap or what ever lowes sells as cutting fluid for $10/quart.
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Jun 14, 2014 04:02
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:So what are you guys using for cutting fluid? I've got about a quarter inch of lame steel to put a few holes in and my bit is... not great. No access to a press either, unfortunately. Rapid Tap. Or, a Rapid Tap bottle filled with hydraulic oil because nobody can be bothered to order more. ATF works pretty good too. And I've used 10W30 with no issues before too. I can't say I've noticed too much of a difference, so I usually just grab whatever's close by.
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Jun 14, 2014 05:22
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Ironically enough, we broke our sawzall cutting a miata chassis in half. I was going to buy a new one, but I grabbed a older Milwaukee off craigslist. It let me to wonder though, what are you guys using? Milwaukee, Porter Cable, Makita?
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Jun 14, 2014 05:24
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I have a milwaukee corded for abusing things with. It has put up with an astonishing amount of abuse and still works, though the torque limiter is stripping out I think. The thing will drat near give a grown rear end man shaken baby syndrome if it jams in a unibody at full throttle and you have a good grip on it, be careful. For cutting oil I use the stuff HD sells in the plumbing aisle as 1qt bottles of pipe thread cutting oil. If I can't find the bottle, I use anything from wd40 to gl5 75w140. If the bit is already spanked it can only do so much, though.
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Jun 14, 2014 05:42
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oxbrain posted:Gas power compressors use a valve that opens to release the pressure from the pump side so the engine only has to maintain idle once the tank is full. I can't remember the name. Dump valve maybe? Unloader.
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Jun 14, 2014 06:40
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InitialDave posted:That has the benefit that the female side of the swivel joint is on the drive side, not the handle - if it's going to go, it's most likely to be one of those ears tearing, and the drive component is cheaper to replace. Yeah, that's the plan. The pin through is the designed weak point and new ones were available separately 
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Jun 14, 2014 09:00
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kastein posted:If the bit is already spanked it can only do so much, though. Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. I'm probably going to hit up HD today and pick up a new bit and some fluid. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
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Jun 14, 2014 13:18
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I have this chuck, fits up to 13mm drills, that I bought for nothing in the hope I could mount it to my cordless drill, as it only accepts drills up to 10mm. Unfortunately, it needs a "B16" tapered "mating" or whatever it's called. Can I get a B16 to 8mm hex or something adaptor?
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Jun 14, 2014 13:25
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the spyder posted:Ironically enough, we broke our sawzall cutting a miata chassis in half. I was going to buy a new one, but I grabbed a older Milwaukee off craigslist. It let me to wonder though, what are you guys using? Milwaukee, Porter Cable, Makita? DeWalt, but not the new stuff. Some of it seems pretty flimsy.
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Jun 14, 2014 16:59
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the spyder posted:I swear I post the same thing every few months. My girlfriend is getting her garage redone, and she and her landlord came to me for any quick ideas to make the garage a more usable space (  ) I suggested air compressor shop lines/outlets run through the studs before the drywall went in. The contractors thought it was a great idea and once I explained you could, in fact, "fill up your tires" with this mod, the landlord thought it was neat too. They nixed my hydraulic lift suggestion as too expensive, but I'm waiting to hear on a 240v line and power outlets in the rafters.Anyway, it was a spur of the moment idea and now I'm wondering what gallon size compressor I should get for it? My only immediate usage plans are an impact wrench for an upcoming axle swap/suspension upgrade and assorted vehicle maintenance duty. I suppose I'd like to be able to paint a body panel with it someday when the occasion calls. Going by your list, I want a ~7 CFM 5+HP at 60gal or under? It's a two-car garage, but it's from the 1940s so it doesn't have a lot of extra space - I'd like to avoid something too massive. I wanted to run a line through the wall and put it outside, but the neighbors are like ten feet away and kind of pissy.
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Jun 15, 2014 01:47
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I'm thinking of taking the hood of the Civic down to bare metal to fix all the tiny dents. Science (the internet) tells me a good orbital sander is what I need. Affordable options?
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Jun 15, 2014 07:36
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Buy a can of something called "aircraft remover", daub it on with a lovely wood-and-actual-hair paintbrush, and wait 20 minutes. Swab off with paper towels, scrub with solvent. You need wood and hair brushes because that poo poo will eat a plastic paintbrush between the moment you dip it in the can and the moment you try and swab it on the hood. I am not sure, but it should remove any and all body filler done by previous owners as well so you get a fresh start at bare metal. And it won't grind into the metal if you go too deep by accident. E: this stuff http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Rust-Oleum-32-oz-aircraft-remover/_/N-25uj?id=660022 Don't use it near anything painted/polymer/plastic that you want to keep. kastein fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Jun 15, 2014 12:26
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InitialDave posted:Ratcheting spanners are brilliant in certain situations, but I wouldn't put them first-tier on your shopping list, there are other tools more useful. Also, annoyingly, only metric ones seem to be available in the UK. I'm goign to try and get some imperial sizes when I visit the US. Machine Mart have a set - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro40-5-pce-angle-head-ratchet-set I've got them for my old Land Rovers, not as good as my Halfords Pro metric set, but perfectly usable none the less.
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Jun 15, 2014 14:21
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kastein posted:Buy a can of something called "aircraft remover", daub it on with a lovely wood-and-actual-hair paintbrush, and wait 20 minutes. Swab off with paper towels, scrub with solvent. I can tell you from experience that nitriles don't protect for poo poo against this stuff. Double-stack them with PVA or at least normal clear vinyl gloves when handling the waste or your hands and arms will be sore as poo poo for 3 days. Methylene chloride metabolizes to carbon monoxide(among other things) in the body and the CO concentrates in the muscle cells first. I've found Citri-strip to work really well on everything, you just trade a little extra wait time for the privilege of not worrying about poisoning yourself for a few days. Nitriles will stand up to it for about 30 minutes before you need to change them.
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Jun 15, 2014 14:44
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What about fuckoff-thick rubber chem gloves?
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Jun 15, 2014 17:30
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kastein posted:Buy a can of something called "aircraft remover", daub it on with a lovely wood-and-actual-hair paintbrush, and wait 20 minutes. Swab off with paper towels, scrub with solvent. Cool, is there a particular solvent I should use to scrub up so I don't create a noxious cloud of fumes? I'd rather not kill myself while doing this.
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Jun 15, 2014 17:37
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It is a chlorinated solvent, so avoid anything nitrated (ammonia is right out!) Or otherwise weird. Acetone would be a good choice, xylene might work but is way nastier than acetone. I would not use brake fluid (which is great for removing some paints and rubberized undercoating) because brake fluid and some chlorinated chemicals like bleach produce a hell of a fire.
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Jun 15, 2014 18:20
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Excellent, I have a can of acetone already.
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Jun 15, 2014 18:37
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reddeathdrinker posted:Machine Mart have a set - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro40-5-pce-angle-head-ratchet-set I've got them for my old Land Rovers, not as good as my Halfords Pro metric set, but perfectly usable none the less. 
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Jun 15, 2014 20:12
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Motronic posted:DeWalt, but not the new stuff. Some of it seems pretty flimsy. Porter Cable is the same way, their old power tools are AMAZING, and the new stuff is sort of ehh.
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Jun 16, 2014 15:17
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Any recommendations for a specific reciprocating saw? I'm building a cat scratching post this summer, and need something that will cut through large, PVC tubing.
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Jun 19, 2014 17:09
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I don't think anything is gonna struggle to cut through PVC, especially if you get the right blade. I've cut PVC with my lovely Ryobi saw and a dull metal blade no problem. I'd either get something that goes with your power tool battery collection or buy a Milwaukee depending on your budget.
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Jun 19, 2014 18:20
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melon cat posted:Any recommendations for a specific reciprocating saw? I'm building a cat scratching post this summer, and need something that will cut through large, PVC tubing. A reciprocating saw is terribly overkill and will leave the ends looking like crap without the right blade and knowing how to use it. A simple $10 hack saw will run through a piece of 4" PVC pipe in under 30 seconds.
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Jun 19, 2014 20:29
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Honestly I usually use my miter saw for PVC conduit and pipe, but I rarely have to cut any PVC over 2-3" diameter. A regular hand saw intended for wood will cut large diameter PVC just fine, then clean the ends up with a file if you care.
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Jun 19, 2014 21:18
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Motronic posted:A reciprocating saw is terribly overkill and will leave the ends looking like crap without the right blade and knowing how to use it. A simple $10 hack saw will run through a piece of 4" PVC pipe in under 30 seconds. Echoing this. Just get a decent fine-tooth blade and a cheapo hack saw will get the job done in no time.
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Jun 19, 2014 21:58
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kastein posted:Honestly I usually use my miter saw for PVC conduit and pipe, but I rarely have to cut any PVC over 2-3" diameter. A regular hand saw intended for wood will cut large diameter PVC just fine, then clean the ends up with a file if you care. I've cut a lot of PVC pipe this year (lots of 110mm soil pipe and 80mm guttering/downpipe) and always use my cheap compound mitre saw with its standard wood blade and a half round file to clean the swarf off afterwards. Works perfectly and you always get a proper straight cut (unlike doing it with a hand saw!)
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Jun 20, 2014 05:07
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I guess I can just go with a a hacksaw and lots of elbow grease. But I'll admit... it is very tempting to get my very first mitre saw. I just don't have much in the way of storage space. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Jun 20, 2014 |
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Jun 20, 2014 07:24
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Is HF's "Go-Thru Socket Set" any good? I'd have to use them to get off some pretty low clearance camshaft retainer bolts so it's a pretty high torque situation as well. I'm just worried because the ratchets are 12 point instead of 6. They would save me a bit of money over my high-quality option, though.
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Jun 20, 2014 13:01
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the spyder posted:Ironically enough, we broke our sawzall cutting a miata chassis in half. I was going to buy a new one, but I grabbed a older Milwaukee off craigslist. It let me to wonder though, what are you guys using? Milwaukee, Porter Cable, Makita? Seeing as how you used their brand name to describe the general idea of the thing, Milwaukee is probably the best. jailbait#3 posted:Splurge on the 110v DC (NOT the AC buzzbox) arc welder and auto-dimming helmet. It's tiny and makes great looking welds, unlike the fluxcore splatter machine. It's easy to learn; you should have the hang of it halfway through a box of rods. Is that the tiny beige one? The tiny beige one has good reviews, I almost bought one until my brother gave me a lovely Campbell Hausfeld buzzbox he got for a one-time job and later bought me (and himself) a pair of midrange Lincoln fluxcore machines for Christmas. If you're serious about welding and not just tinkering, get a 240V machine if you can power it. Much better than anything that plugs into a standard outlet, and even those trip the standard breaker at the highest setting -- every 110V circuit in your house is probably 15A, maybe 20A. The welder pulls 20A on its highest setting, and the outlet it's plugged into is probably on the same circuit as the lights. Though if you're just learning, the little 110V ones are cheap enough to give away or sell for a pittance if you decide not to upgrade, and still handy for small jobs if you do upgrade. kastein posted:I have the FuBar. I honestly use my regular old 36" wrecking bars more, they're better suited to most jobs unless you just need to absolutely, indiscriminately wreck poo poo. jammyozzy posted:There's always a big loving sledge for some percussive maintenance too Also a good buy: Stanley demo drivers. Y'know all those things you're not supposed to use screwdrivers for, like chisleing, prying, drilling, etc. but do anyway? They're built for it. Toolmonger's review sold me on them, in which they hammered one all the way through a 2x4, handle and all, with no damage other than a few scratches to the rubber grips. I've used them for prying, chiseling through small bolts (in conjunction with the 3-lb hammer), and as a non-marring hammer (hold it by the shaft and whack the thing with the handle; chews up the finish, but hey, that's just more grip) more than I've actually used them to turn screws. 4-lb hammer and Stanley Demo Drivers:  Another wonderful thing:  I have one for work, thinking of getting another one for the around-the-house tools. InitialDave posted:Yes, you should get a torque wrench for rebuilding stuff, but right now you'll be mainly stripping stuff, so I say prioritise getting the beefiest breaker bar you can find. The big hammer is good in lieu of/in spaces too tight for a breaker bar, as long as you have ratchets with a good warranty. melon cat posted:I guess I can just go with a a hacksaw and lots of elbow grease.
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Jun 20, 2014 13:18
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Bad Angus! Bad!