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They repaved Buttonwillow, I may actually drive up there now
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Jun 26, 2014 20:06
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Bumming Your Scene posted:They repaved Buttonwillow, I may actually drive up there now I'm as excited for that as I am for the new Thunderhill course. B-Willow needed the resurfacing really badly, the Charade was soft for a race car and still bounced around, I can't even imagine what it was like on a motorcycle or a formula car.
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Jun 26, 2014 20:11
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I always liked that about BW. "Oh, your car is slow as poo poo on those rock hard teins? Let me talk to you about suspension..."
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Jun 26, 2014 23:44
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If anyone in the Minnesota area is bored next week, there's still openings for the Slowpokes track day at BIR next Thursday. $300 for 8 hours of open track time, and you've got the 4th off work anyway. This is my first time driving with a group that isn't BIR's HPDE program.
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Jun 26, 2014 23:59
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Bumming Your Scene posted:They repaved Buttonwillow, I may actually drive up there now Oh hey, they finished a month ahead of schedule too. Gotta hit this surface before the summer heat turns things back into 405 conditions. 
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Jun 27, 2014 08:20
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 24, 2019 |
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Jun 28, 2014 15:23
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As long as the car is safe / passes tech, I think everyone would much rather teach you in a slow car, than have you be a newbie who has no idea how to handle the 500hp supercar you wrote a fat check for. Besides, at any sort of track day where you're just talking about regular guys and not actual race drivers on the track, a good driver in a slow car will often still be faster than a new driver in a much, much faster car.
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Jun 28, 2014 15:47
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How do you guys find local autocross events? I'd like to try one, but can't find any good calendars or anything to know when/where to go.
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Jun 28, 2014 16:06
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 24, 2019 |
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Jun 28, 2014 16:37
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Extra posted:I had the best luck going to http://www.motorsportreg.com/calendar/ and throwing in my zip code. 
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Jun 28, 2014 16:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:As long as the car is safe / passes tech, I think everyone would much rather teach you in a slow car, than have you be a newbie who has no idea how to handle the 500hp supercar you wrote a fat check for. This x1000 Extra posted:Thank you I appreciate the reassurance, I'm a bit self conscious when around people with expensive cars so it's probably just all in my head. There is no feeling better than getting a point-by from someone in a car that is orders of magnitude more expensive than yours. I have seen beginner run sessions where well driven Jettas pass poorly driven 911s.
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Jun 28, 2014 20:58
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Don't buy anything for your car that isn't maintenance. Especially don't buy KYB or Teins. Assuming the car is mechanically perfect, I would buy a set of aggressive brake pads as a safety item at the minimum. Something light duty like a Hawk HP+ or Carbotech AX6 should suffice for your first few events. Extreme performance summer tires (Dunlop Z2, Hankook R-S3, BFG Rival, etc) would be a great idea, but not entirely necessary. If you were to do anything suspension wise, OTS Konis if you really have money burning a hole in your pocket; keep the rest of the suspension the same. Just for an example from today at VIR, in the novice group there's a kitted out NSX with carbon fiber panels, supercharger, suspension... but no brakes or tires and he was extremely slow all day. Just drive the wheels off of something cheap and have fun.
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Jun 28, 2014 23:59
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Phone posted:Just drive the wheels off of something cheap and have fun. This times a million. I've heard it countless times, "my car isn't ready for an autox or track it needs more horsepower,coilovers, bigger rims/tires, etc." I ran a F-stock 99 mustang cobra for years (with Hawk HP+ and a good street tire a Star Spec/RS3) and when I finally moved up to a ASP classed STi I am typically in the running for RAW FTD at Autox's that I attend. The secret? I went to every autox/HPDE/ice race that I could in my area and built up my skills. In the beginning you are always better off spending $5,000 on HPDE, autox, and drivers school than dropping the same amount on parts.
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Jun 29, 2014 00:18
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ZincBoy posted:Uploaded a few laps from one of my practice sessions at the time attack last weekend. I kept forgetting to setup one of the gopro, GPS, or datalogger so most of the laps did not turn out. Whats the camera setup there? G-Mach posted:In the beginning you are always better off spending $5,000 on HPDE, autox, and drivers school than dropping the same amount on parts. So true, yet so seldom done. Almost no one goes to the track believing that they'll be slow and, when they are, it's much easier to solve the "problems with the car" instead of learning to drive. I've seen people upgrade to big brake kits for their second track day instead of learning how to properly use the brakes they have (hint: ducts and pads solve almost any issue), guys who drop thousands on double-adjustable suspensions they have no idea how to setup properly, and slap on superchargers and big turbos instead of learning to carry speed out of corners. The fact is that via magazines and advertisements, enthusiasts are repeatedly told to upgrade parts, not skills. That said, after my first track day, I sold my '99 Mustang GT and bought a truck, trailer and fully built ITA car with less than half the horsepower, and proceeded to do the rest of my learning in that. I'd rather drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow. Stardotstar fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jun 29, 2014 |
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Jun 29, 2014 04:41
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Stardotstar posted:Whats the camera setup there? The camera rig is a GoPro Hero3 Black on a Vector mount. The Vector mount allows the camera to rotate into the direction of the turn. I then combine the data from Harry's lap timer on my iPhone using Race Render to generate the final video. I find the output useful as I can see that I am in no way maxing out the last hairpin onto the main straight. I think I could save half a second or so if I was willing to risk interacting with the pit wall more... You can see the camera rig on the sun roof in this photo:  Stardotstar posted:So true, yet so seldom done. Almost no one goes to the track believing that they'll be slow and, when they are, it's much easier to solve the "problems with the car" instead of learning to drive. I've seen people upgrade to big brake kits for their second track day instead of learning how to properly use the brakes they have (hint: ducts and pads solve almost any issue), guys who drop thousands on double-adjustable suspensions they have no idea how to setup properly, and slap on superchargers and big turbos instead of learning to carry speed out of corners. The fact is that via magazines and advertisements, enthusiasts are repeatedly told to upgrade parts, not skills. This is very true. One of the fastest people in the C (beginner) group when I started was a lady in her base civic on street tires. I could pass her in the straight but forget about the corners. Now that I have somewhat improved my driving, I can beat her around the track, but swap cars and I don't think I would do as well. I also focused on things in the following priority: 1. Reliability 2. Handling 3. Power (not done yet) On the reliability front I looked after all of the problem areas the various internet sources mentioned. The cooling system given that it is an e46 BMW, baffling the oil pan, locktight added to the oil pump nut, oil seals replaced, suspension bushings replaced with HD OEM. For handling, I upgraded the swaybars, struts/springs, and the rear diff to add an LSD. On the power side, I have done nothing and only feel the lack when on the straights. As long as I am catching people in the turns I am happy. At the moment I can hold my own against a decent driver in an M3 and I am fine with that. Now that I am using Rcomp tires, I am on a slippery slope to doom to upgrade the rest of the car to match...
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Jun 30, 2014 04:43
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Phone posted:Don't buy anything for your car that isn't maintenance. Especially don't buy KYB or Teins. This all the way, if you ever think you need xxxx part, let an instructor drive your car. In most cases their first hot lap will be several seconds faster than yours. If it's not, go ahead and buy. Humility is the key to speed.
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Jun 30, 2014 06:35
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DJ Commie posted:I'm as excited for that as I am for the new Thunderhill course. The new track is really technical and a lot of fun to drive. Not so much to race on as there really isn't any passing area unless the person in front of you really messes up. Add to that big rocks that get dragged on with the slightest off and car bending curbs. It's a bit of a mess back there right now. Not my video thankfully. Big repair bill @ just past 5:05 https://vimeo.com/98998190
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Jun 30, 2014 06:38
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Phone posted:...Extreme performance summer tires (Dunlop Z2, Hankook R-S3, BFG Rival, etc) would be a great idea, but not entirely necessary... I'm a big proponent of learning on good tires like RS-3s/Rivals/etc. Not R-comps, mind you, but I didn't start getting faster until I took off my Super Sports and put on RS-3s. It may have just been those tires, but compared to the RS-3s, the breakaway and communication was abysmal. For someone learning, this meant when I exceeded the limit a bit, the car was sideways. On the RS3s, the car slid a bit, I learned a lesson, and could keep going.
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Jun 30, 2014 07:18
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Aurune posted:The new track is really technical and a lot of fun to drive. Not so much to race on as there really isn't any passing area unless the person in front of you really messes up. Add to that big rocks that get dragged on with the slightest off and car bending curbs. It's a bit of a mess back there right now. My only disappointment is the turn 9 bypass for the new course, 7-10 is my favorite part of the course.
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Jun 30, 2014 17:05
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the poi posted:I'm a big proponent of learning on good tires like RS-3s/Rivals/etc. Not R-comps, mind you, but I didn't start getting faster until I took off my Super Sports and put on RS-3s. It may have just been those tires, but compared to the RS-3s, the breakaway and communication was abysmal. For someone learning, this meant when I exceeded the limit a bit, the car was sideways. On the RS3s, the car slid a bit, I learned a lesson, and could keep going. I would agree. The first event I want to was on all seasons. It was terrifying. The car was so much more controllable and fun to drive on good tires. I had a lot more confidence with good tires.
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Jun 30, 2014 21:00
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the poi posted:I'm a big proponent of learning on good tires like RS-3s/Rivals/etc. This cannot be stressed enough. We run our 780 on Rivals and they do a drat great job.
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Jun 30, 2014 22:25
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DJ Commie posted:My only disappointment is the turn 9 bypass for the new course, 7-10 is my favorite part of the course. Yeah, I love turn 9 too. The upside is the connector and the following straight + kink is a ton of fun.
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Jun 30, 2014 22:45
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does anyone use speed bleeders? Those bleed screws with the check valve built into them. Like these:http://topbrakes.com/c/car-series/1...oG9u2c6JbLw_wcB What is everyone's experience with these things? People are telling me I can just crack those speed bleeders open, pump the brake a few times, and I'm done. No need for polytubing, no pressure bleeders. Do they really work like that? Anyone ever had a bad experience with speed bleeders? My other question would be how do I install them...is it just a matter of screwing the stock bleeders out and just screwing the new speed bleeders in?
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Jul 4, 2014 01:54
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Marauder Stig posted:does anyone use speed bleeders? Those bleed screws with the check valve built into them. I had them in my wrx. Used em for 10 years no issues. Worked as advertised. Just unscrewed stock bleeder and put them in.
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Jul 4, 2014 02:33
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Anybody got a link for used SA2005 or SA2010 helmets in the GTA? Or should I just go new? These are for time attack/lapping, I am currently using a donated Arai M2000 (I wasn't too familiar with regulations, and I didn't realize that my SHOEI helmet from 1988 was actually illegal for track days  ).
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Jul 8, 2014 21:32
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 Because racecar. and 141k mile tow vehicle
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Jul 9, 2014 02:56
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animeliker posted:Anybody got a link for used SA2005 or SA2010 helmets in the GTA? Or should I just go new? These are for time attack/lapping, I am currently using a donated Arai M2000 (I wasn't too familiar with regulations, and I didn't realize that my SHOEI helmet from 1988 was actually illegal for track days I wouldn't ever trust a second hand helmet. Is it a horrible thing to say if you can't afford a new helmet you probably can't afford to take your car on track? You don't need a CF one, anything that's passed Snell should be at least as good as any other. If you have to miss a trackday because you spent $300 on something to protect your brain, think of it like insurance.
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Jul 9, 2014 03:03
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Unless you have a cage Snell M is legal is it not? Our time attack doesn't require SA and we use CASC-OR rules. Decent HJC Snell M helmets are only ~180CAD.
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Jul 9, 2014 03:10
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drgitlin posted:I wouldn't ever trust a second hand helmet. Is it a horrible thing to say if you can't afford a new helmet you probably can't afford to take your car on track? You don't need a CF one, anything that's passed Snell should be at least as good as any other. If you have to miss a trackday because you spent $300 on something to protect your brain, think of it like insurance. There are $300 dollar helmets? Aren't new ones between $600-$1000?
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Jul 9, 2014 03:11
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Crustashio posted:Unless you have a cage Snell M is legal is it not? Our time attack doesn't require SA and we use CASC-OR rules. Wow that was much cheaper than I was expecting. No cage, stock NA '91 MR2. I use a Arai M2000 right now but it's about to expire. I was told M helmets are less than ideal though (only designed to survive 1 impact).
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Jul 9, 2014 03:12
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animeliker posted:Wow that was much cheaper than I was expecting. No cage, stock NA '91 MR2. http://www.apexperformance.net/prod-2398.htm
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Jul 9, 2014 03:14
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Thanks. I'll get this.
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Jul 9, 2014 03:15
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Grab a smoked spare shield, it makes a pretty nice difference not having to wear sunglasses or anything.
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Jul 9, 2014 03:21
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animeliker posted:Wow that was much cheaper than I was expecting. No cage, stock NA '91 MR2. I use a Arai M2000 right now but it's about to expire. I was told M helmets are less than ideal though (only designed to survive 1 impact). That makes no sense in terms of designed to survive one impact. You're going to tumble in a motorcycle accident and have multiple head impacts... or at least that's how mine have gone.
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Jul 9, 2014 04:55
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animeliker posted:There are $300 dollar helmets? Aren't new ones between $600-$1000? My Bell M4 was like $350 and it's really good.
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Jul 9, 2014 05:18
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M helmets don't have the fire retardant qualities. That said, there may be other differences, as a car accident in a caged car is a series of hits, while a motorcycle crash is generally one big hit. I'd get an SA helmet, if not for safety (I still think it is a bit of a crock in an uncaged, airbaged car without HANS), because everyone takes SA.
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Jul 9, 2014 06:15
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animeliker posted:There are $300 dollar helmets? Aren't new ones between $600-$1000? If you wait until October or November you'll probably find some great bargains once the SAH2015s start arriving and everyone discounts their SA2010s to get them out the store.
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Jul 9, 2014 12:35
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SA2010s didn't come out until like November 2010.
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Jul 9, 2014 15:04
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My Bell Sport, SA 2010, was $300 plus tax at a local retailer. Amazon has them for $280 if you're comfortable gambling on the fitment. E: Don't skimp on safety. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jul 9, 2014 15:32
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I appreciate all the help guys thank you.
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Jul 9, 2014 22:40
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