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Base Emitter posted:never bought one but according to a google search apparently the common problem is non-working filters. i would have assumed they'd be any random DIP with the numbers labelled off, i'm not sure how they're coming up with a SID-like chip without a filter. maybe its an unsuccessful cloning project (the filters the only real analog portion) the SID is a weird analog/digital hybrid. that's why emulated versions never sound right. its sound depends on a combination of analog hardware and manufacturing flaws. later revisions fixed some of the flaws which made commodore music people really mad! in the 70s you just had analog sound circuits in your arcade games. no music, just percussive and wobbly beep boop sound effects built out of RC circuits and op-amps. sounds like this. then they came up with PSG tone generators like the aforementioned AY-3-8910, SN74689, atari POKEY, or about a billion other chips in the early 80s. a couple sound channels and a noise generator for percussive sounds. envelope control, waveform control, fancy stuff if you had a good chip. if you really wanted to splurge or you were a good programmer you could get some PCM going too for sampled sounds by abusing the chip or throwing some more hardware on your board. if you're lucky, sounds like this. if you're not lucky, sounds like this since the chip literally can't produce a tone that's in tune. then you had FM synthesis from yamaha. this is what your sega genesis, sound blaster, and everything else from about 85 on used, such as the YM2612 or YMF262 but there are a million models of them. many devices combined both the FM chip and a PSG chip for maximum versatility. the sega genesis had both a YM2612 and SN74689! they also generally had built-in support for PCM sound samples of much higher quality than you'd get out of loving with the envelope settings on a PSG. sounds like this. to save money a lot of game companies tried to get away with just including an okidata ADPCM player as their only sound output. it sounds like garbage on the original hardware too. the super nintendo on the other hand had a 32KHz sony sample player chip inside it which gave it its unique sound. another fun project might be digging up an old votrax speech chip and making it say cuss words. you string phoneme codes together and send them to the chip instead of having preprogrammed phrases. it sounds like a robit. kraftwerk used it a bunch on one of their albums. Luigi Thirty fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 06:23
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Sagebrush posted:the yamaha ym2612 sounds like an interesting one, possibly still manufactured, and it does fm synth apparently. then again might suffer the same probs as the knockoff sids. maybe but the sid is by far the most in demand. good luck, post trip report.
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Jul 10, 2014 06:24
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hahahha
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Jul 10, 2014 12:13
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Luigi Thirty posted:the SID is a weird analog/digital hybrid. that's why emulated versions never sound right. its sound depends on a combination of analog hardware and manufacturing flaws. later revisions fixed some of the flaws which made commodore music people really mad! dont stop im almost there
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Jul 10, 2014 12:21
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holy poo poo that turntable. Gonna have to figure out some better grounding cause holy drat does it generate some static just spinning vinyl.
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Jul 10, 2014 14:47
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enotnert posted:holy poo poo that turntable. maybe the cork mat? also i guess make sure the ground is securely connected, no idea how easy that is tho
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Jul 11, 2014 01:05
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hey with an rgb LED that is powerful enough to require its own driver, could I run each element in parallel off the one driver? and put a transistor in series with each element for PWM control? and if i did this the current would be split amongst the elements (coz of parallel) so i'd need a driver that was 3x power of the individual elements? and the fact that each element drew different voltages would be an issue? or better to stick with a driver for each element?
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Jul 11, 2014 04:45
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echinopsis posted:hey with an rgb LED that is powerful enough to require its own driver, could I run each element in parallel off the one driver? and put a transistor in series with each element for PWM control? and if i did this the current would be split amongst the elements (coz of parallel) so i'd need a driver that was 3x power of the individual elements? and the fact that each element drew different voltages would be an issue? or better to stick with a driver for each element? generally parallel diodes don't divide current very well unless they're closely matched for example if you have a red diode with a typical voltage of 2.1V in parallel with a blue diode with a voltage of 3.3V at the same current, your current source will reach 2.1V and be driving all its current through the red diode and little to none through the blue also the pwm won't work well for a current source because the transistors will end up steering the same total current through whichever led is on. i saw a design once for leds in series (equal current) shunted by pwm'd fets, but then the power supply has to be able to quickly change from 0 (all off, current shunted through all the fets) to the sum of the diode voltages (all leds on, fets off) just get 3 drivers and if your led current is <50mA the driver can probably be just be a voltage and a resistor
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Jul 11, 2014 05:11
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Base Emitter posted:and if your led current is <50mA the driver can probably be just be a voltage and a resistor p sure if this is for the aquarium project he's talking about leds that draw 3-5 amps
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Jul 11, 2014 05:26
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Sagebrush posted:p sure if this is for the aquarium project he's talking about leds that draw 3-5 amps ah. i have very little post-to-post memory i'm afraid what is that 10-15watts of leds? you're gonna see those fish from orbit.
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Jul 11, 2014 05:31
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Base Emitter posted:generally parallel diodes don't divide current very well unless they're closely matched thanks for that. makes sense. i thought it would be cheeky Sagebrush posted:p sure if this is for the aquarium project he's talking about leds that draw 3-5 amps http://www.ebay.com/itm/1W-3W-10W-3...=item460fd2bd33 those are the ones i am looking at. i grabbed the 10w and it says the forward current is 600ma. i actaully did grab 3 drivers for that one but i was ALSO looking at the 3w ones, at 350ma .. and i was trying to find drivers and i couldnt find ones as cheap so i was looking for a cheaper option coz the 3w ones only come in 5 pack and 3 drivers x 5 RGB leds is 15 drivers at maybe $3-4 each so yeah thats a good $50 on drivers for $8 of LEDs and for what? just dreaming really I did snag some neopixel 8 long bars for my sunrise clock. now i gotta find a source of colours for a sunrise. ic ould fake it with blackbody radation too i guess
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Jul 11, 2014 05:33
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echinopsis posted:i grabbed the 10w and it says the forward current is 600ma. are you guys tell me this might be wrong?
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Jul 11, 2014 05:33
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the specs aren't entirely clearquote:- DC Forward Voltage (VF) : 6~ 8V(Red), 9~12V(Green), 9~11V(Blue) don't know if the 600mA is for the whole led with all three diodes on full, or if that's per diode. if it's for the whole chip and you're powering it with a 12v supply then it's something less than 12*0.6 = 7.2 watts if it's per diode then it's nominally about 7*0.6 + 10*0.6 + 10*0.6 = 16.2 watts something's fucky?
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Jul 11, 2014 05:55
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cistps: ordered a bag of 50 3.875" o-rings from mcmaster because i am dumb, couldn't find a place selling them in smaller batches, and forgot how expensive their shipping is even for tiny orders. at least now i have enough spares to replace any that wear out i guess
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Jul 11, 2014 06:42
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current idiot spare time project status: I made a box that people on irc are pretty mad about. Deal with it
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Jul 11, 2014 06:54
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oh yeah for whoever was asking about FM chips a few models of Yamaha chips are patch-compatible or nearly so with the DX7 synthesizer so it's easy to find instrument settings for them online
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Jul 11, 2014 07:08
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Sagebrush posted:the specs aren't entirely clear welp I'll find out when it arrives in a month
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Jul 11, 2014 07:26
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the carnegie library of pittsburgh has free 3D printing now. i wanna 3D print some poo poo. how do i do this.
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Jul 11, 2014 16:22
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easiest way is just to download something from thingiverse and take the stl over on a flash drive I assume if you want to model something yourself, get a copy of rhino 3d
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Jul 11, 2014 18:14
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rhino it is 
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Jul 11, 2014 18:18
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i just wish all 3d poo poo wasn't so goddamn expensive, every 3d artist i've seen that i like apparently uses cinema 4d which doesn't have an easily fooled student version
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Jul 11, 2014 18:19
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blender is free 
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Jul 11, 2014 18:22
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i've actually been fuckin with blender a little while but reading/watching awful tutorials by ESL speakers and ugh it is poverty zone for real also doin this course and learnin a lot https://www.udacity.com/course/cs291
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Jul 11, 2014 18:26
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if you want to make video shame models or do stuff for movies w/ animation etc then yah you want something like cinema 4d, 3ds max, maya. they are meant for art and give you lots of freeform tools w/ moderate accuracy (good enough for a video game, not to cut an injection mold) if you want to make engineered products you need a NURBS CAD program like solidworks or pro/engineer, or a hybrid cad/freeform NURBS modeler like alias or rhino. i usually recommend rhino bc it's a good swiss army knife program (can open almost anything and do a bunch of different modeling techniques) and if you are associated with a university you can get it for 95 dollars. that's an unlimited, non-expiring full commercial license too. solidworks is also excellent, and for mechanical stuff there's nothing like it, but the student edition is 150 dollars a year for a limited version and a regular commercial one is like 4000 dollars.
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Jul 11, 2014 18:27
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Silver Alicorn posted:blender is free literal garbage off the street, or poop from a butt, is also free.
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Jul 11, 2014 18:27
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Sagebrush posted:if you want to make video shame models or do stuff for movies w/ animation etc then yah you want something like cinema 4d, 3ds max, maya. they are meant for art and give you lots of freeform tools w/ moderate accuracy (good enough for a video game, not to cut an injection mold) thanks this is what i needed to know. ideally i'd like to be able to make game models/animate stuff and also 3d print models of said stuff but i should probably stop trying to do every goddamn thing at once
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Jul 11, 2014 18:28
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prepare for  basicaly there are two different fundamental ways of storing 3d data (not counting weird stuff like voxels): polygonal models and NURBS surface model. polygonal models are what you think, lots of flat surfaces that you move around by pushing and pulling vertices and with enough of them you can approximate a curved shape. polys are super lightweight and fast and they're easy to work with because you literally just grab a vertex and move it. video games and many movies use high res polys because of this (and because they don't care if your round machine gun barrel is actually a 12-sided prism) NURBS modeling is a way of mathematically describing the curvature of a surface with a continuous polynomial equation. once you set the parameters for that equation, you can sample it at any point and get the exact value for the surface location, so a NURBS can be sampled at arbitrarily high resolution. it's the only way to 100% accurately record a curved surface like a sphere or the line of a car body in a computer and so is also how all modeling for engineering and design is done. disadvantage of nurbs is that it's harder for people to wrap their heads around, because you aren't directly adjusting the surface shape but only controlling the equations that define the surface, so it can be harder to grasp initially. but it's the way to go if you want quality engineering models. then within nurbs there are two main modeling paradigms: solid modeling and surface modeling. fundamentally they make the same type and quality of model but they're different mindsets. in solid modeling you act like you're starting with a block of wood and carving pieces away or gluing more pieces on until you get teh shape you want. in surface modeling you act like you're building a wire cage for the model and then stretching fabric or paper along the outside to get teh shape. ultimately surface modeling is the most open and flexible but also the most difficult to understand. if u want a programming analogy, poly modeling is like python or something (used in industry but not for the really serious life-threatening stuff), solid modeling is like C++ (the bread and butter of 90% of the good engineering you see out there) and surface modeling is like assembly (total control over every aspect of your product at the expense of increased complexity) rhino is primarily a surface modeler with the option to do solids and some polygon editing and conversion. solidworks is a solid modeler with a not-very-good surface modeler patched in and no helpful handling of polygon data. art apps like 3ds, maya, cinema 4d are going to be primarily polygon modelers with some basic nurbs surfacing tools thrown in and no solid-modeling paradigm. so surface or solid modeling is where you wanna go for the highest quality and accuracy if you're making a model for manufacturing. HOWEVER there is one more aspect: the resolution of the 3d printer. most printers these days don't even approach the resolution of a quality cnc'd injection mold, so you can totally get away with a low res polygon model in most cases. in fact 3d printers take only poly models as inputs (stl file), but if you start with a nurbs you can render it out at low or high resolution as is appropriate for your printer and model scale. w/ polygons you're stuck at whatever number of polys you have. essentially if what you're printing is warhammer figures or something and you don't care to go further then any 3d modeling program will do you. if you wanna start making useful mechanical parts then you want a real nurbs cad program most definitely. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jul 11, 2014 |
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Jul 11, 2014 18:49
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Sagebrush posted:prepare for There is only one fundamental way to store your posts, in the trash. lol
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Jul 11, 2014 18:53
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as an educator, my job is to explain things to people in excruciating detail. i am literally a professional pedant. also i can type pretty fast compared to the average (80-90 wpm) and i get faster every time i make another post so the quantity of stuff i can spew per hour just keep increasing. just you wait
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Jul 11, 2014 18:59
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hey speaking of 3d printing, i was watching "neighbors" (which is entirely mediocre and forgettable otherwise) and there's a scene where one of the frat kids is using a 3d printer to make a copy of his dick i think this is the first time a 3d printer has shown up in a non-sci-fi movie? and it amuses me to no end that of course it's being used to print a dick
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Jul 11, 2014 19:01
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a dick was like the third thing i searched for on thingiverse when i found the site existed.
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Jul 11, 2014 19:03
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i modeled my own when i was loving around with 3d printing [insert joke about my dick not fitting inside the build area of a makerbot]
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Jul 11, 2014 19:09
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Sagebrush posted:solidworks is also excellent, and for mechanical stuff there's nothing like it, but the student edition is 150 dollars a year for a limited version and a regular commercial one is like 4000 dollars. solidworks makes all its money off big engineering firms and doesn't really give a poo poo about people who use the limited student edition. it's pretty easy to snag a free academic license or twenty if you send them a nice email and are involved with some sort of educational engineering or design thing. in the past six years i've never had to pay for a copy of solidworks, which owns a lot because solidworks is the pro-est of the cad programs.
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Jul 11, 2014 19:18
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my oscilloscope has BNC poo poo on it instead of the banana plugs like on my multimeter so I can't use my test leads. where do I buy leads for it that I can use like to connect to my arduino so I can draw boners on the screen
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Jul 11, 2014 19:34
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Luigi Thirty posted:my oscilloscope has BNC poo poo on it instead of the banana plugs like on my multimeter so I can't use my test leads. where do I buy leads for it that I can use like to connect to my arduino so I can draw boners on the screen prime. buy every thing on amazon prime. heres an adapter if you want to be lazy http://www.amazon.com/Male-Dual-Binding-Posts-Adapter/dp/B000LFWQH4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1405103673&sr=8-6&keywords=bnc+to+banana+adapter
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Jul 11, 2014 19:35
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Luigi Thirty posted:my oscilloscope has BNC poo poo on it instead of the banana plugs like on my multimeter so I can't use my test leads. where do I buy leads for it that I can use like to connect to my arduino so I can draw boners on the screen Be aware that oscilloscope probes have electronics inside them for high frequency stuff but multimeter probes are just long wires so you might get funny results w/them Boner drawing should be fine but you should probably buy actually scope probes if you're gonna start doing actual circuit debugging
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Jul 11, 2014 20:37
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Sagebrush posted:literal garbage off the street, or poop from a butt, is also free. hey blenders not that bad it just has a steep learning curve. coming from 3ds max there are a lot of things i really like about blender and almost everything i ever wanted to achieve was just a keyboard shortcut away (as in i could never find a way to do anything without the keyboard.. not necessarily a bad thing but if you dont know the shortcuts nor the name for the feature youre looking for...)
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Jul 11, 2014 20:53
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Glorgnole posted:solidworks makes all its money off big engineering firms and doesn't really give a poo poo about people who use the limited student edition. it's pretty easy to snag a free academic license or twenty if you send them a nice email and are involved with some sort of educational engineering or design thing. in the past six years i've never had to pay for a copy of solidworks, which owns a lot because solidworks is the pro-est of the cad programs. hell yeah solidworks owns. i've only played with a pirated copy once at least 5 years ago but when i did there were so many things it did that just made life so easy
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Jul 11, 2014 20:54
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Arcsech posted:Be aware that oscilloscope probes have electronics inside them for high frequency stuff but multimeter probes are just long wires so you might get funny results w/them my current scope probes are a wire electrical taped onto into a BNC -> RCA adapter -> 1/8" headphone plug so that's probably an improvement
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Jul 11, 2014 21:18
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echinopsis posted:hey blenders not that bad it just has a steep learning curve. coming from 3ds max there are a lot of things i really like about blender and almost everything i ever wanted to achieve was just a keyboard shortcut away (as in i could never find a way to do anything without the keyboard.. not necessarily a bad thing but if you dont know the shortcuts nor the name for the feature youre looking for...) fukken LOL forever @ blender remember that blender's original developers' business plan was to capitalize on blender's horrid and unintuitive interface by giving the software away for free and selling printed manuals and such. this was after their original plan of selling blender for actual earth dollars failed due to said asstastic interface, so they decided to poo poo up the interface even more and make their money by telling people how to use the damned thing. the fact that the interface is still terrible, despite it no longer being in anyone's financial interest, doesn't speak well for its current developers and is hard to overlook.
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Jul 11, 2014 23:56
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