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Well currently the plan is just to slap some agrellan earth on there and then lightly go over that with raw sienna to give it a little color. Toss a little grass on afterward, if I can find any at this lovely hobby shop. I'm not sure how the cracking medium would respond to any of these different techniques, so I'm a little wary. Edit: I took some models that actually WERE slotta models, and taped the edges carefully to test this out. Just tape, gesso, and agrellan earth, and you can't tell they were ever there. Thanks for the advice, fellas! You saved me a few bucks. Ignite Memories fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 01:11
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'Special Effects Colors' - Rotten White, Rust, Flesh Blood, Dried Blood, Vomit, Verdigris and Dry Rust. This is also interesting:  LumberingTroll posted:Fuuuuck looks like I will be buying more Vallejo paints Did you ever come out with a Minitaire rack? I might want one of those. MasterSlowPoke fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 01:23
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glad I made this last rack with extra room, but I can see I will have to add at least another module to it. 
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Commissar Canuck posted:It may have required the heroic sacrifice of some decals off of a 1/72 scale Hawker Hurricane model kit, but I think it adds a nice touch to these (still in progress) Britannia carriers You models look good, but for some reason i'm finding it difficult to tell which direction they are facing, or how fast they are moving. Please remedy this.
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Jul 31, 2014 01:38
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MasterSlowPoke posted:'Special Effects Colors' - Rotten White, Rust, Flesh Blood, Dried Blood, Vomit, Verdigris and Dry Rust. Oof, this is far too tempting even after picking up the Minitaire range and rackspace for it. Game Air would likely fill a few colour gaps at least, the Minitaire range is just excellent value. The metallic primer is a great idea, has that been done for miniatures previously or is this a first? That would be a timesaver when combining it with the Minitaire Ghost Tints for that coloured metallic look. I haven't done that yet, but it's a cool option to have.
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Jul 31, 2014 02:23
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Ignite Memories posted:Currently I have 21 models on slotta bases which do not need to be. Now that I'm finally starting to base my guys, it's time to make some decisions re: these slottas. Should I try green stuffing the slot closed? Has anyone tried this? I'm trying to decide if that is a good use of my time / green stuff vs just buying 21 more bases. Get 1" steel washers instead.
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Jul 31, 2014 04:08
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MasterSlowPoke posted:
Actually there are three sizes in that image. 
They are designed to lay flat on their backs, or stacked, I put a single screw through the backs of the top ones here because I stacked them so high. Ive also got a slanted shelf designed that will go in the place of that clear rack in the center. but haven't made one yet.
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Jul 31, 2014 04:52
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MasterSlowPoke posted:'Special Effects Colors' - Rotten White, Rust, Flesh Blood, Dried Blood, Vomit, Verdigris and Dry Rust. Is there any info on these like price or release date? I can see them on the Vallejo website but there doesn't seem to be any evidence of them being for sale yet and I must have them!
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Jul 31, 2014 05:32
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Holy poo poo I just finally learned about a wet pallet and it's balls out amazing. I used one drop of paint for like 20 minutes and was done painting with it before it dried out. I really need to study more technique.
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Jul 31, 2014 06:07
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What's a wet pallet? You can't say these things and not share!
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Jul 31, 2014 06:32
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Magres posted:What's a wet pallet? You can't say these things and not share! Pretty simple idea especially for those of us in dry climates or who work under bright strong lights. Get shallow tupaware and put a few layers of sham wow cloth and soak it good. Add a piece of cooking parchment down on top and pat it down. Now use it as a pallet and your paint keeps moist. Pretty simple but really helps. Apperntly you can mix colors on it then refrigerate it and it will stay good but I havnt got that far experimenting with it. I'm just happy my paint doesn't skim over and dry up in 30 seconds anymore.
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Jul 31, 2014 06:48
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I just wish my wet pallet didn't dry out every few hours.
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Jul 31, 2014 10:42
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ijyt posted:My friend used some seraphim sepia and it's left a gross white residue on his model. He says he shook the poo poo out of it, and that it's worked fine before. Very rarely the washes can seperate and then they're hosed up. It happens a lot of the paint is stored in a warm room, or indeed if its been transported in a poorly insulated delivery van and been left to cook in the sun for a few hours. You cant fix it at this point.
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Jul 31, 2014 10:45
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Wet palette. You can go a little better and buy a small wet palette from Michaels or AC Moore for a few bucks using a 40% off coupon. They also sell extremely thin sponge sheets - I bought one and cut a piece in the shape of my palette container. Works wonderfully. Or, go super cheap and use the container your lunchmeat came in, toss in a sponge and a piece of parchment paper, and you're golden. Buy a roll of parchment paper from Walmart - it is in the aisle with aluminum foil and wax paper. Do not cheap out and buy wax paper - it is not the same thing as parchment paper! One roll of parchment paper will last you a long, long time - suck it up and pay the extra buck or two. Do yourself a favor - whichever route you take, don't seal the palette container for more than a day or so. Otherwise, you'll forget about it and open it a month later to find your sponge all moldy and gross. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 15:53
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So, having painted and washed my fire warriors, not sure how I should go about highlighting. Should I just go over stuff like the armor with the same colour? Since that would be a bit lighter than the washed parts. Some people seem to repaint the whole parts after washing, but doesn't that kinda negate the wash fully? Should I just pick a lighter shade av my colour and highlight and leave the wash? Not really sure how people usually do and what the different results are. Also wayland games still hasn't sent the detail brush I ordered like 2 weeks ago and the GW one I bought was horrible, so maybe I should just say gently caress it to edge highlighting. Oath has to be finished today :O Edit: I'm stupid and already asked that question before, though it would still be nice to hear of people have different opinions on how to do it. Sistergodiva fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 16:20
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Sistergodiva posted:So, having painted and washed my fire warriors, not sure how I should go about highlighting. Should I just go over stuff like the armor with the same colour? Since that would be a bit lighter than the washed parts. Some people seem to repaint the whole parts after washing, but doesn't that kinda negate the wash fully? Should I just pick a lighter shade av my colour and highlight and leave the wash? Not really sure how people usually do and what the different results are. You leave the wash in the recesses, which gives you the shading you really want. Going over again with the base color over the washed surfaces (again, leaving it in the recesses) lets you get the benefits of a wash and the brightness of the base color. Typically, I paint something one color, wash it, bring it back up to that base color, then do highlights. For a visual example, here's some Crimson Fists I painted. They were Kantor Blue, washed with Nuln Oil, then highlighted with Altdorf Guard Blue:  Here are some Crimson Fists painted Kantor Blue, washed with Nuln Oil, then brought back up to Kantor Blue before highlighting:  They're markedly brighter and the colors are more distinguishable.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:36
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ijyt posted:My friend used some seraphim sepia and it's left a gross white residue on his model. He says he shook the poo poo out of it, and that it's worked fine before. That was me and I used the biel-tan green wash. I used black wash to try and hide it (the green surface is black in the crevices already). Other than that your out of luck I guess 
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Jul 31, 2014 17:51
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SRM posted:You leave the wash in the recesses, which gives you the shading you really want. Going over again with the base color over the washed surfaces (again, leaving it in the recesses) lets you get the benefits of a wash and the brightness of the base color. Typically, I paint something one color, wash it, bring it back up to that base color, then do highlights. I see. I guess it was just because the fire warriors have so many flat surfaces that washing and repainting felt like it would be extra work, but I repainted the armor on two of them now and I see how it works now. A bit unsure about what to leave washed or not, like what crevices and stuff, but I guess that comes with experience. Is there any trick to the really small lines? Like the ones of their helmets? Should I just try to get that from the wash? Because I seem to have kinda failed at that.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:55
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Not a viking posted:That was me and I used the biel-tan green wash. I used black wash to try and hide it (the green surface is black in the crevices already). Other than that your out of luck I guess
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Jul 31, 2014 18:19
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Regardless, it's at least made me aware about testing my washes - they've been on my paint station which has had a bit of exposure to the sun for the entirety of this last month.
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Jul 31, 2014 19:40
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Do any other paint manufacturer have similar products that don't gently caress up my (albeit average  ) paint job? I don't want to pay GW extra money for an inferior product from their competitors (and still I play their game!  )
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Jul 31, 2014 19:50
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As I posted in the Warmachines thread, I just bought the 2 player battle box and I'm shopping for the paint supplies locally in order to get these things painted. I seen the thread suggests Krylon flat black spraypaint for a dark primer, is there something special I should be using for a white primer?
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Jul 31, 2014 19:52
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DeathSandwich posted:As I posted in the Warmachines thread, I just bought the 2 player battle box and I'm shopping for the paint supplies locally in order to get these things painted. I seen the thread suggests Krylon flat black spraypaint for a dark primer, is there something special I should be using for a white primer? Krylon flat white.
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Jul 31, 2014 19:58
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DeathSandwich posted:As I posted in the Warmachines thread, I just bought the 2 player battle box and I'm shopping for the paint supplies locally in order to get these things painted. I seen the thread suggests Krylon flat black spraypaint for a dark primer, is there something special I should be using for a white primer? Krylon primers are generally the best quality for their price. I highly suggest their grey primer for everyday use, but their white primer is also pretty good from my limited experience. Not a viking posted:Do any other paint manufacturer have similar products that don't gently caress up my (albeit average Army Painter Inks are basically like the old GW washes before they got changed over, and come in dropper bottles rather than pots. They work really good and behave pretty much exactly like regular washes. If you're in the US I'd suggest ordering through The Warstore though, as shipping directly from Army Painter is killer. I've heard some good things about Secret Weapon's brand of washes, though I have had no experience with it personally. From what I gather it goes on pretty strong, almost like a glaze really, which is you're looking for something like that then you might want to check'em out.
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Jul 31, 2014 19:59
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DeathSandwich posted:As I posted in the Warmachines thread, I just bought the 2 player battle box and I'm shopping for the paint supplies locally in order to get these things painted. I seen the thread suggests Krylon flat black spraypaint for a dark primer, is there something special I should be using for a white primer? If you can get it, I actually prefer Duplicolor sandable black (and white) automotive primer to Krylon. Goes on thinner, but I feel like it takes paint better. It's also the stuff that Privateer rebrands for their P3 line, if that matters to you (it probably shouldn't). About $8 a can from O'Reilly if you have them.
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Jul 31, 2014 20:01
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Here's a rough outline for some troops I've got to paint up before Gencon. No highlights yet, but just a simple black and red scheme with bronze-silver-gold armour to differentiate troops.
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Jul 31, 2014 22:19
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Limited Edition Skull Scabbard bit looks decent on Sicarius (I have no idea where his sword went).
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Jul 31, 2014 23:25
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 Mockup IW terminator I did that has now evolved into an in-progress display model. These Cataphractii are pretty hard to pose but I hope to have it done within a day.
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Jul 31, 2014 23:28
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Not a viking posted:That was me and I used the biel-tan green wash. I used black wash to try and hide it (the green surface is black in the crevices already). Other than that your out of luck I guess This is caused by the Matte Medium separating. You should be able to reverse it by apply gloss varnish over it. DeathSandwich posted:As I posted in the Warmachines thread, I just bought the 2 player battle box and I'm shopping for the paint supplies locally in order to get these things painted. I seen the thread suggests Krylon flat black spraypaint for a dark primer, is there something special I should be using for a white primer? Rustoleum 2x Ultra Cover Flat White Primer
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Aug 1, 2014 02:15
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ijyt posted:I agree, both of those mock-ups look great, I especially like the red one. I think you have bought matt black spray paint and not primer. You should use grey primer if that is the case.
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Aug 1, 2014 02:33
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Finished my 1st (of 8 ohmygod) Leman Russ:    2 more to go to finish my 2000 pt list for the NOVA Open.
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Aug 1, 2014 05:12
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Oath Crosspost Getting a little bit better. I tried a magic wash based on some articles and I don't know if it really acted as a wash or what. I like how if made the skin look glossy, but I don't know if I "did it right" or not. Either way, I am happy to have something that is more than primer black. Just need a warlock totally painted to do something I have never done in years of table top gaming: field a fully painted army for a game. Don't care that it's not gonna be Buffalochicken or SRM good, just having a very small, but fully painted force on the table really has me excited
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Aug 1, 2014 05:35
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Thanks to this thread I got a big boy lightbox to replace my baby homemade one. If you've ever wondered what kind of difference lighting + background makes, here you go: Blue felt backdrop- pretty mediocre. None of the colors and depth you see in person are really coming through.  White felt backdrop- better. Wow you can see everything, but my whites are blown out and everything is a little flat. You can't really see my metal dryrbushing and its pretty saturated.  Black felt backdrop- almost there. The depth, reflections, and colors are almost right. But, since the black felt bottom absorbs light I have to direct more to the tops of the models. This blows the levels off of my whites. The rest is good though.  Black felt backdrop, black frosted glass bottom- The models are standing on a glass desk with a semi-reflective surface. Thanks to a little bouncing around of the light, I'm getting lifelike colors, most of the models are illuminated, the white has depth, and my dryburshing/weathering is clear.  Thanks LumberingTroll!
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Aug 1, 2014 07:10
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Here's my quick and dirty Sherman tanks for Flames of War. Painted mostly with spray basecoat and the new weathering spray from Plastic Soldier Company, with tracks, stowage and crew done with a brush afterwards. Very quickly done with decent tabletop standard results. Now I'm just waiting for Dom's Decals' decals. 
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Aug 1, 2014 08:58
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Big Willy Style posted:I think you have bought matt black spray paint and not primer. You should use grey primer if that is the case. No, it's fine. Halford's black matte works as well as any hobby primer. Spraying twice would probably be worse.
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Aug 1, 2014 10:06
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Crosspostin' some marines I just finished. The first of my Deathwatch marines, which I will be using as Sternguard  I tried to keep them visually characterful and recognizable to be from a specific chapter, and not just have different colored shoulder pads. Also, here's a chaplain, who will hopefully someday be actually used in a game. 
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Aug 1, 2014 10:31
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Okay, so, looking for some advice. Local game store has a monthly painting contest. The proprietor couldn't come up with a theme this month, so I suggested Over The Top. Since I suggested it, I feel obligated to try getting something in. Rules are that the base model has to come from the shop, bought when the contest starts. This is both to get the shop some cash, and to make sure everyone's starting more-or-less at square one. The model does not have to be GW, but it has to be purchased there. They have a pretty full selection of the basic 40K and Fantasy lines, as well as some Reaper models like Cthulhu and Nethyrmaul. My current thought is to take something like the Soul Grinder or other big huge monster and have it "ork-looted," with ork vehicle parts glued on (with some string for rope and maybe tiny strips of duct tape acting as steel supports). My current resources: Bunch of orks I got in an auction, with a couple of bike looking things. Ork sprues from Stormclaw. Some sprues with parts for dreadnaught torsos (no legs) and weapon sprues for what I'm told is a Baal predator. One of the other game shops has piecemeal bits for an ork army, with eight or nine small vehicles (jeeps and flatbed jeep-like things, and some cannons and killa kanz). Any suggestions? I could probably get some bitz from eBay as well, but I need to get started on this sooner rather than later.
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Aug 1, 2014 11:04
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BULBASAUR posted:Thanks to this thread I got a big boy lightbox to replace my baby homemade one. If you've ever wondered what kind of difference lighting + background makes, here you go: What specifically are you using for the lighting? My photo tent kit came with lighting, but it's garbage.
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Aug 1, 2014 14:58
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LumberingTroll posted:Actually there are three sizes in that image. Hey man, my understanding is you actually make these things. Would you be willing to sell these as kits? I'd be willing to buy them if it means paying a reasonable price and not paying shipping from Australia.
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Aug 1, 2014 14:59
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Anyone knows how blue tack stuff reacts to primer? Can i put some under my guys feet to hold them for prining? Or will it do something crazy if sprayed?
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Aug 1, 2014 15:51
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Nah, it will just get covered in paint. You can usually squish it back up and reuse it, but it will only last so long.
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Aug 1, 2014 15:55
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