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So how do you go about painting Salamander green then?
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Aug 6, 2014 16:47
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TheOneOutside posted:Did you use sponges for the blue? Sorry, missed your question. No sponges for the blue, just haphazardly slapping it on with a big cheap brush. I did use sponges for all the weathering though.
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Aug 6, 2014 17:14
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The method FW use is a basecoat of Tamiya Flat Green, a highlight of Loren Green and a wash of 50/50 Biel Tan Green and Lahmian Medium. Found a picture of some of mine using the same technique, although the picture seems a little washed out. 
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Aug 6, 2014 17:14
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That'll work Any idea what the closest GW or vallejo to the tamiya flat green is?
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Aug 6, 2014 17:36
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Vallejo Sick Green is an alternative for Sallies, depending how you wash & highlight it's a slightly more vibrant, crisp colour.
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Aug 6, 2014 19:16
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VGC Sick Green is just their copy of GW's old Snot Green, so yeah that would be a pretty good alternative.
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Aug 6, 2014 19:21
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Got a pot of Snot Green thats still good, cheers chaps!
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Aug 6, 2014 19:39
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What's Vallejo equivalent to dark angel green?
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Aug 6, 2014 21:12
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LingcodKilla posted:What's Vallejo equivalent to dark angel green? Misery.
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Aug 6, 2014 21:17
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In honor of the thread title I received a notification from Amazon is $10 a bottle today!
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Aug 6, 2014 22:06
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LingcodKilla posted:What's Vallejo equivalent to dark angel green? dark
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Aug 6, 2014 22:16
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serious gaylord posted:Misery. And here I thought my bottle was just lovely.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:15
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Bought these at GenCon 2010, figured I should finally get them painted before I go back this year.  
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Aug 7, 2014 03:36
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Fyrbrand posted:Bought these at GenCon 2010, figured I should finally get them painted before I go back this year. Those are awesome and would make sweet objective markers if they fit on 50mm bases. Who makes those?
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Aug 7, 2014 05:09
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Here's the quick oath I dashed off this month, a Reaper Bones golem that I took a crack at doing up in NMM gold.quote:
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Aug 7, 2014 06:05
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Anyone here use the GW drybrush paints? What consistency should they have? Just bought a thing of the Necron Compound, and it's not fluid at all. It's not quite solid, but it's almost like a paste.
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Aug 7, 2014 07:12
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That sounds about right. After taking from the pot you are supposed to dab onto a papertowel or something to get most of the excess paint and moisture out of the brush so your pigments are 'dry' and also held deeper/centrial inside the hairs of the brush to have better control. The GW paints are not solid nor are they powder, but some less-moist pasty texture that is easier to dab to the right consistency. A contrast would be Badger Minitaire[sic] paints that are almost impossible to get into a drybrush because they are so diluted for airbrush consistency. Their paint would never really feel 'dry' in the brush and as you flicked the hairs over your model the effect would be less like adding a dusting of color on the highest points but instead many small vivid lacerations of color that could also bleed into recesses, which is not normally how you want when you drybrush. Edit: Looking at that color name I would say it would be perfect over a black primed mini. I love drybrushing silver metals over black since it gives the metals some wonderful depth and drybrushing is a quick way to get satisfying shading into fiddly details like cables and armorplates/rivets. It has a worn look but for most beginner/intermediate painters it looks spot on in one or two layers of quick easy painting. WhiteOutMouse fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Aug 7, 2014 |
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Aug 7, 2014 07:36
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will blow your mind.
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Thanks, I might try it. I have to have this model done by the end of the month, and there are so many bits to work on, I'm taking every shortcut I can. The soul grinder's skin is just bloodstain red, with a drybrush midtone and some line and point highlights here and there.
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Aug 7, 2014 07:53
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Edit: Looking at that color name I would say it would be perfect over a black primed mini. I love drybrushing silver metals over black since it gives the metals some wonderful depth and drybrushing is a quick way to get satisfying shading into fiddly details like cables and armorplates/rivets. It has a worn look but for most beginner/intermediate painters it looks spot on in one or two layers of quick easy painting. I use a Tamiya TS-42 Light Gunmetal over black primer for my GKs, then I overbrush Ironbreaker or whatever Boltgun Metal's new equivalent over the top of it to get more of a smooth blend. It gives a nice depth as you mentioned, but is good for less of a worn appearance and great for covering large areas like predominantly silver infantry or vehicles. Slap on some highlights, a black wash and some edge highlights afterwards and you're good to go.
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Aug 7, 2014 07:55
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Acceptableloss posted:Those are awesome and would make sweet objective markers if they fit on 50mm bases. I got them from the Armorcast booth. I'm at work now, but I'm pretty sure they're a little too big to fit on 50mm bases. I can confirm tonight though. Edit: Here they are. Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Aug 7, 2014 |
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Aug 7, 2014 14:06
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I made some bases with cork and sprayed them black. I realized I probably want them brownish to look like cracked mud or something, since I made them pretty flat, but most tutorials I find, they drybrush clack with grey or white. Anyone have any experiences? Edit: This is how it looks  There was this youtube channel posted here I think with a lot of good tips for basing, but I can't seem to find it anymore. Sistergodiva fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Aug 7, 2014 |
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Aug 7, 2014 15:47
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Sistergodiva posted:I made some bases with cork and sprayed them black. I realized I probably want them brownish to look like cracked mud or something, since I made them pretty flat, but most tutorials I find, they drybrush clack with grey or white. Anyone have any experiences? Off the top my head the youtube channel you're probably looking for is EonsofBattle.
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Aug 7, 2014 18:27
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Ultramarines 2nd Battle Company (so far) with some detachments from 1st and The Armoury. The fact it's been 3 years on and off painting showed when I've had to tidy up the older models so they didn't stick out like a sore thumb! I've been trying to resist the desire to strip the paint and redo completely...though I may let myself with the Captain when I'm finished.  
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Aug 7, 2014 18:58
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JerryLee posted:Here's the quick oath I dashed off this month, a Reaper Bones golem that I took a crack at doing up in NMM gold. That looks rad as hell. I may have to steal this idea if I ever get around to painting that dude.
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Aug 8, 2014 00:09
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I haven't painted for over half a year. I was limited on how far I could go because it was a birthday present for someone. I ran out of time to do more.   Tell me what you guys think! Edit: Blends are mix of brush and airbrush. I do all the main layers with the airbrush then go in with a brush and deepen/bring up finer areas. I left it with a satin varnish rather than matte because it helps the colours pop more and I think suits the beastie. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 00:12
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Fabulous, is the blending with an airbrush? It's super smooth.
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Aug 8, 2014 00:13
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Several goons have posted that model over the few years I've been reading these threads, it seems like, and every time it almost makes me glad I don't play the game/faction it's for (High Elves?) because goddamn I would never ever be able to do it like you folks do. Even my tabletop standard would look like THIN YOUR PAINTS compared to some of these jobs.
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Aug 8, 2014 00:32
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 yeah I guess that's ok
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Aug 8, 2014 00:39
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I love that model and the colours 
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Aug 8, 2014 03:13
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Dat burd. Okay, so, my soul grinder project. I was not joking when I said I was cheating every which way I could. The paint job is ugly and won't win any prizes, so I'm hoping the overall execution of the project pulls me through.  Here we see the main body of the Soul Grinder. It's done up primarily in GW paints. I ended up getting a bunch to paint up a Space Wolves army. In general, I don't like 'em as much, mostly because I hate working out of pots. Eventually, I'll take the time to transfer them all to dropper bottles, the way God intended. This is pretty much all leadbelcher, with a little bit of Necron Compound drybrush and a bunch of Typhus Corrosion.  Here's the first leg painted up. The others will hopefully go faster, now that I know what my color scheme is for them. Man, the Abaddon Black went on thick. Probably gonna use the Reaper Pure Black for the other legs. Again, mostly GW colors. Did use Splintered Bone for the skull, and the sinews are done with Bloodstain Red, so Reaper is somewhat represented. Speaking of Bloodstain Red...  Torso was done primarily in bloodstain red, with some P3 Skorne Red drybrushed on, and some highlights done with a touch of lava orange mixed with the Skorn Red for spot and line highlights. It was quick and dirty, but I'm gonna have to take every shortcut I can to get this done on time. I'm hoping that spectacle will win me through where I don't have time to do a lot of skill-intensive stuff.  Here you can see where a couple of orks will go. The ork on top is replacing the head, and will have a set of handlebars that are wired into the body. Haven't decided exactly what I'll do about the hole, but I may put some greenstuff on the edges to make it look more uneven and organic. Just a bit ol' neckhole. You can see a machine gunner peeking out the back, awaiting priming and a head.  This guy I'm gonna use as the main piece of orkification. I'll be cutting it in half. Front half will go on the waist with an ork dozer bit, and the back will go on behind the body, and serve as a platform for other orks. It was already painted when I got it, but I cleared using it with the store owner, so long as I do some clean-up. The big thing is that I paint up the primary model myself.  Here's the bulldozer bit. It's gonna be fun to paint up. That's pretty much where I'm at for the moment. We'll see how long it takes to finish up the legs and arms on the soul grinder, and then I'll start working in the added parts.
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Aug 8, 2014 05:04
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So after almost of full week of seeing my better half I decided to not dive back in straight away with miniatures and instead work on some terrain. Watched a few videos and this is what I've done so far. I'll eventually make it into area terrain with bits of brick and other odds and ends. (Included Space Marine for scale)
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Aug 8, 2014 06:40
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This is potentially a stupid question but can anybody id the grey/blue paint on these mini's, I've been looking for that sort of grey for an urban scheme but I can't for the life of me find a match.
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Aug 8, 2014 13:33
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7WkwcPZ9k0 A review of the Vallejo Game Air paints. They seem pretty solid.
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Aug 8, 2014 13:56
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I'm excited for game air. I'll definitely buy the set. I own the set of minitaire, and while I don't dislike them as much as schnauzerface they certainly have their failings.
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Aug 8, 2014 14:26
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THRILLED 2B HERE posted:This is potentially a stupid question but can anybody id the grey/blue paint on these mini's, I've been looking for that sort of grey for an urban scheme but I can't for the life of me find a match. Bear in mind that the colors you see online aren't always rendered properly. Lighting, the background, and any potential Photoshop edits are going to really change to tone of the color you're seeing. I'd look at Vallejo Pale Blue, Vallejo Pale Gray Blue, or Light Sea Gray: http://www.10mm-wargaming.com/vallejo-paints.htm Have you tried asking the painter? Most painters are willing to give up their color recipes if you ask nicely.
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Aug 8, 2014 14:54
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berzerkmonkey posted:Bear in mind that the colors you see online aren't always rendered properly. Lighting, the background, and any potential Photoshop edits are going to really change to tone of the color you're seeing. I'd look at Vallejo Pale Blue, Vallejo Pale Gray Blue, or Light Sea Gray: http://www.10mm-wargaming.com/vallejo-paints.htm I would also say VMA Pale Grey too.
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Aug 8, 2014 15:28
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Fyrbrand posted:More lighting tests. This time a big mek stompa I converted and painted up a couple years ago. This isn't getting enough love but it's cool as hell. I'm hoping to get my WHFB Giant glued and primed tonight. "WiP pics coming," he says to motivate himself.
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Aug 8, 2014 15:42
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Is there a good source for those old-rear end space marine bayonets and chainsaw bayonets? Does anybody even stock bits that old?
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Aug 8, 2014 15:45
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Are you talking about the ones from the original beige beakies set? I've never seen those anywhere. I might have some leftover though - how many were you looking for?
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Aug 8, 2014 16:17
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Anywhere from four to twelve would work, I might still have some buried in my parents' attic from twenty years ago, too.
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Aug 8, 2014 16:21
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