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Hey I'm thinking of setting up like a network server for the house with an old Desktop we have. It'd mostly be for hosting game servers, and being able to have a network drive. What's the preferred operating system / remote access program of choice? I heard NAS8 is a good OS for that, but you can't run windows programs off of it, so hosting a lot of servers may become difficult. What are your guys opinions?
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Aug 9, 2014 03:00
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Turtlicious posted:Hey I'm thinking of setting up like a network server for the house with an old Desktop we have. It'd mostly be for hosting game servers, and being able to have a network drive. What's the preferred operating system / remote access program of choice? I heard NAS8 is a good OS for that, but you can't run windows programs off of it, so hosting a lot of servers may become difficult. What are your guys opinions? What servers are you wanting to run, and what platforms do they support? And what platforms are you familiar with in terms of management and administration? A user-friendly version of Linux (i.e. Ubuntu) is usually the default choice, and is likely the most compatible. But if you have something that requires Windows, or you have no *nix experience and feel uncomfortable with it, then there are other options.
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Aug 9, 2014 04:18
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I have run gaming "servers" on my home computer before, and I do IT / Digital Proctoring with my company through LogMeIn. I'm thinking of Minecraft, 7daystodie, Garry'sMod, and Unturned, which all both have linux and windows options, but the windows version runs better 9 times out of 10. I just don't have a lot of experience setting this up on a budget outside of a company setting.
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Aug 9, 2014 04:32
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Turtlicious posted:Minecraft Yeah, just stick with windows.
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Aug 9, 2014 06:18
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I need a cheap but reliable wifi router to get 1 or 2 chromebooks online for training at work. Yes, it will be in front of the firewall. I don't need anything fancy really, even G on 1st party firmware would be fine. Any suggestions?
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Aug 9, 2014 20:10
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Quick modem question, I'm about to set up a cable internet connection through Grande Communications and I'm going to go with their 50mbps package. I don't want to use their crappy rental modems so I was going to pick up a Motorola Surfboard (docsis 3.0) is that a decent pick for a modem? Or should I look elsewhere? I'm going to be using a WRT54GL for my router with tomato firmware. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Aug 10, 2014 |
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Aug 10, 2014 05:42
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Diametunim posted:Quick modem question, No input on the modem here, but you should strongly consider upgrading you router to something that at least has N. The WRT54GL will likely bottleneck your speeds.
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Aug 10, 2014 05:57
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SB6141. Next caller.
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Aug 10, 2014 06:04
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smax posted:No input on the modem here, but you should strongly consider upgrading you router to something that at least has N. The WRT54GL will likely bottleneck your speeds. Likely? Almost guaranteed for nearly any purpose. It's ancient and time to let it go.
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Aug 10, 2014 06:10
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Lots of stuff about routers etc, but any good recommendations for Wireless adapters? Just moved into a new apartment and the cable hookup is far enough away from the 2 PC's to make me think about wireless, since it'd be way less of a pain in the rear end than running cables. I've already got a dual band router that can do 2.4ghz and 5ghz separately, so my thinking was to get 2 Wireless NIC's that do 5ghz and leaving the 2.4ghz band for cellphones etc. Any recommendations for either USB or PCI/PCIe NIC's, or failing that a reason why this idea is bad and stupid would be greatly appreciated.
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Aug 10, 2014 09:07
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:SB6141. Next caller. SB6183 with 16 downstream channels is coming out. Probably more future proof if he can get one. http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6183-DOCSIS/dp/B00MA5U1FW/
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Aug 10, 2014 09:22
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Been having problems with our home network for months now. The internet connection keeps randomly dropping. Sometimes it can work for hours with no problems, and other times it can drop every 10-15 mins. After the connection drop it starts working again in 30secs-couple minutes. I suspect the problem is on our end since I've called the ISP and they don't see anything + the routers DSL light keeps glowing even during these connection drops. The network consists of 2 PCs, PS4, and tv. My router is Zyxel P-660HN-T1A. Our internet connection is 24mbit ADSL. Things I've tried already are changing my old router to the model I mentioned earlier, changing the cables, reseting the router multiple times, and making sure AV+firewall are working. I'm definitely no network expert so I'm pretty much out of ideas on what else to try.
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Aug 10, 2014 16:06
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 Thanks to the NAS megathread, I now have a NAS - on which I will store my photos, docs, music library. This will allow 2 users to share these files, as well as letting me use my smart TV and PS3 as media centres via DLNA. Also backups from the desktop PC and laptop. I think this is too much for my cheapo Technicolor TG582n to handle - I believe that it struggles with 4+ simultaneous connections and I have not gotten DLNA to work reliably via wifi. Also, streaming on the netbook will kill online gaming on the PS3 (high ping). Best options for upgrade? Add an Asus RT-N66U, disable Technicolor and use it as a wired router? Also, would it be feasible to connect a wifi dongle to the NAS so I can move it away from the router?
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Aug 10, 2014 19:22
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I would keep the NAS wired in if you're planning on streaming a lot from/saving a lot to it.
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Aug 10, 2014 19:45
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e.pilot posted:I once ran a 600ft cat5e cable when I was deployed, worked surprisingly well until a truck ran over it. I once ran 250ft of CAT3 (all we had when we were poor broke teenagers) that maintained a solid 100mbps for several years.
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Aug 10, 2014 19:47
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Zilkin posted:Been having problems with our home network for months now. The internet connection keeps randomly dropping. Sometimes it can work for hours with no problems, and other times it can drop every 10-15 mins. After the connection drop it starts working again in 30secs-couple minutes. I suspect the problem is on our end since I've called the ISP and they don't see anything + the routers DSL light keeps glowing even during these connection drops. Pingplotter (google, free trial) is awesome for watching your connection. Wire a connection to your modem directly with no router or anything, power cycle the modem, run Pingplotter set to ping google every second and it'll graph out any drops. That'll give you step one on ruling out what side the problem's on.
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Aug 10, 2014 20:17
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spog posted:Thanks to the NAS megathread, I now have a NAS - on which I will store my photos, docs, music library. If you want to be able to game and stream at the same time, a router that has good QoS is pretty much a must, and in most cases, that means using custom firmware - a lot of stock firmware on consumer routers will advertise having QoS features, but I've never heard of any of them being as good as what you get on Tomato and it's variants (which I find to be better than DD-WRT / OpenWRT). So I would look at ones that are well supported by one of the branches that are in active development (like Shibby), which I believe the ASUS RT-N66U / AC66U does. Also, the Technicolor TG582n appears to be a combination modem + router. So you will need to keep it around as a modem (assuming it can be configured as just a modem) unless you're going to get a new modem as well.
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Aug 10, 2014 20:21
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smax posted:No input on the modem here, but you should strongly consider upgrading you router to something that at least has N. The WRT54GL will likely bottleneck your speeds. Star War Sex Parrot posted:SB6141. Next caller. IOwnCalculus posted:Likely? Almost guaranteed for nearly any purpose. It's ancient and time to let it go. DaNzA posted:SB6183 with 16 downstream channels is coming out. Probably more future proof if he can get one. Thanks for the input guys, appreciate it. As far as buying an SB6183, I'm a cheap penny pinching university student and I've only got a year and some change left. Hopefully by the time I graduate I'll have a job and be moving to a fibre based location so I'll probably skimp the future proofing at the moment. Bottleneck wise, how large are we talking here? I plan to wire both my Desktop and my PS4. The only devices that will see wireless is my laptop, smart TV, and the occasional guest that wanders in. I won't be pushing 1080p streams or doing anything otherwise that's seriously network intensive on any of the devices using wireless. Think I'll be able to squeeze the last bit of life out of my WRT54GL until I graduate? I'd buy a new router but building one sounds like fun. I know I won't have the funds to build anything impressive for a bit.
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Aug 10, 2014 20:43
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Diametunim posted:Thanks for the input guys, appreciate it. As far as buying an SB6183, I'm a cheap penny pinching university student and I've only got a year and some change left. Hopefully by the time I graduate I'll have a job and be moving to a fibre based location so I'll probably skimp the future proofing at the moment. If you're short on cash get the Motorola/Arris SB6141 (or maaaybe SB6121 if it's still being sold and supports the amount of bandwidth you'll get) and keep the WRT54GL until your situation improves. With so few devices you should be fine. I usually see the 6121 for about 60 bucks and the 6141 for 80, but they've had a few sales recently.
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Aug 10, 2014 22:45
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SB6121 or even a 6120 should do 50mbps without issue.
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Aug 10, 2014 23:38
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Diametunim posted:Think I'll be able to squeeze the last bit of life out of my WRT54GL until I graduate? I'd buy a new router but building one sounds like fun. I know I won't have the funds to build anything impressive for a bit. Mine topped out around 15mbps. That's when I switched to pfSense on an ALIX unit.
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Aug 11, 2014 01:34
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:SB6121 or even a 6120 should do 50mbps without issue. I have a 6120 and it does 100mbps down.
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Aug 11, 2014 03:07
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So my parents pc used a D-Link DWA-125 to establish a connection since they don't want cables. I updated their old pos computer with new hardware & Windows 8.1 and now the dongle doesn't find any wi-fi networks at all in Control panel. The drivers are installed and the device appears to work OK according to Windows. Should I just recycle the D-link dongle and buy an internal wi-fi card or something?
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Aug 11, 2014 13:35
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:SB6121 or even a 6120 should do 50mbps without issue. 6121 can do up to 160mpbs Search Results With each channel capable of providing around 40 Mbps of data, the Motorola SURFboard SB6121's four downstream channels can provide a theoretical maximum of 160 Mbps of throughput. I just got comcast speed boosted to 100mpbs boost, and my 6120 does 120-130 no problem.
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Aug 11, 2014 16:10
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I got my network working great and wanted to thank you all. This can be scary and it's nice to know at least someone will answer your questions and not be a dick about your ignorance.
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Aug 11, 2014 17:11
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Ihmemies posted:So my parents pc used a D-Link DWA-125 to establish a connection since they don't want cables. I updated their old pos computer with new hardware & Windows 8.1 and now the dongle doesn't find any wi-fi networks at all in Control panel. The drivers are installed and the device appears to work OK according to Windows. I'd replace it, I have an older model of that dongle that doesn't support anything beyond Vista. If the device is somewhere where you know the wifi is strong you could go with the tiny EdiMax USB dongle that is usually $10. If not, then the best wireless internal cards are Intel, but they're usually $30-40.
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Aug 11, 2014 19:41
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At our jobsite, we used to have a DSL line that we all accessed through a wireless router. Our DSL line is gone and we're sharing an aircard. That's fine, except our network printer/copier was previously connected to that network, and now it's not. I know this is the Home networking thread, but any help would be greatly appreciated. We've got: 2 PCs 1 Laptop 1 Savin C5050 Printer - It's a rebranded Ricoh or something 1 Linksys E1200 Wireless Router 1 Verizon Jetpack aircard 0 Tech support or Networking guys I'm at a complete loss about what to do to get this running, and networking is completely out of my area of expertise. Any suggestions would be awesome. Edit: the more I'm thinking about it, the less likely to work this seems Loopyface fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Aug 11, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 20:02
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Rexxed posted:I'd replace it, I have an older model of that dongle that doesn't support anything beyond Vista. If the device is somewhere where you know the wifi is strong you could go with the tiny EdiMax USB dongle that is usually $10. If not, then the best wireless internal cards are Intel, but they're usually $30-40. Thanks, bought an Asus pcie card since Intel cards weren't directly available on the store. Seems to work without issues, and altough the wifi chip probably offloads everything to cpu it isn't a problem really. The d-link was from pre-win7 era so mine was probably similar to yours.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:05
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Loopyface posted:At our jobsite, we used to have a DSL line that we all accessed through a wireless router. Our DSL line is gone and we're sharing an aircard. That's fine, except our network printer/copier was previously connected to that network, and now it's not. I know this is the Home networking thread, but any help would be greatly appreciated. You should just be able to plug it into the router and use it like you used to. The LAN didn't change, just your internet connection.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:55
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Inspector_666 posted:You should just be able to plug it into the router and use it like you used to. The LAN didn't change, just your internet connection. I think he is saying that their DSL line was connected to the Linksys router, now they are directly connecting to the aircard (wifi only device). I'll take a stab that all 3 of the PCs were using wifi before, and the printer is the wired device that is now left out.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:58
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Moey posted:I think he is saying that their DSL line was connected to the Linksys router, now they are directly connecting to the aircard (wifi only device). I'll take a stab that all 3 of the PCs were using wifi before, and the printer is the wired device that is now left out. Oh, I just assumed the Linksys was still involved since it was on the list. My real answer is stop running an office off of a cell phone connection.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:12
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Moey posted:I think he is saying that their DSL line was connected to the Linksys router, now they are directly connecting to the aircard (wifi only device). I'll take a stab that all 3 of the PCs were using wifi before, and the printer is the wired device that is now left out. nevermind, that was dumb.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:12
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kid sinister posted:I need a cheap but reliable wifi router to get 1 or 2 chromebooks online for training at work. Yes, it will be in front of the firewall. I don't need anything fancy really, even G on 1st party firmware would be fine. Any suggestions? Anybody?
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Aug 11, 2014 21:18
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kid sinister posted:Anybody? Cheap and reliable usually don't go hand in hand. It won't be seeing much load though, so really just buy whatever and it should work. In my experience consumer routers start getting lovely with 5+ active wifi devices at once, so 2 chromebooks shouldn't be a big deal at all.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:20
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kid sinister posted:Anybody? So you already have a firewall and router in place? A simple access point will get this done for you. Although if this is a corporate network, they will probably get furious with you for plugging a device into their network. This will be overkill for your situation, but will work well. If you have an old wireless router, you could turn it into an access point as well. http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B004XXMUCQ
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Aug 11, 2014 21:21
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kid sinister posted:Anybody? How does the ASUS RT-N16 look to you? It's 2.4GHz only, so if you need 5GHz then the ASUS RT-N66U seems to be well-regarded.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:21
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:SB6141. Next caller. FYI, there's an Arris / Motorola model and a Motorola model, doesn't seem to be much difference between the two. I recently helped someone who mistakenly bought both and they let me keep the Arris one. If there's a caveat with both models, its that they seemed to have sourced LEDs meant for flashlights. All of the indicator LEDs combine to form what's pretty much a very distracting night light, it will keep an entire curtained off bedroom lit at dim TV levels. Only way I was able to keep it from keeping them up at night was to paste an exactly cut length of Gorilla Tape over the indicators so that the front ventilation holes aren't covered.
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Aug 11, 2014 22:09
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Binary Badger posted:If there's a caveat with both models, its that they seemed to have sourced LEDs meant for flashlights.
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Aug 11, 2014 22:11
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SamDabbers posted:How does the ASUS RT-N16 look to you? It's 2.4GHz only, so if you need 5GHz then the ASUS RT-N66U seems to be well-regarded. I run the RT-N16 at home. It's ran great for a year now, no complaints. Well, except for yesterday when its wifi poo poo the bed on letting my laptop renew its IP address, yet when I connected through my old WRT54G configured as a WAP that I still use for all my old devices that don't do N (Nintendo poo poo mostly), it renewed just fine, yet still wouldn't let me switch back to the RT-N16's connection. Moey posted:So you already have a firewall and router in place? A simple access point will get this done for you. Although if this is a corporate network, they will probably get furious with you for plugging a device into their network. currently I just got some old wired Linksys router at this location because Centurytel only gave us a modem for this location. We're a franchise business, so it's on us what we hook up to our connection. Should I just swap out the old wired router for a wifi one, or should I go to the trouble to make the new wifi router to be the new edge router, then leave the old wired router with its firewall in place for the old network devices to protect all of them? Somehow I doubt I'll get a bunch of punks trying to hack the wifi to get into the network of a hair salon. I checked my parts bin and I'm all out of old routers, that's why I asked. Eh, maybe I should upgrade at home to that Asus RT-N66U so that I'd have 2 spares to dole out. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Aug 11, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 22:38
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kid sinister posted:currently I just got some old wired Linksys router at this location because Centurytel only gave us a modem for this location. We're a franchise business, so it's on us what we hook up to our connection. Should I just swap out the old wired router for a wifi one, or should I go to the trouble to make the new wifi router to be the new edge router, then leave the old wired router with its firewall in place for the old network devices to protect all of them? Somehow I doubt I'll get a bunch of punks trying to hack the wifi to get into the network of a hair salon. Are you running a credit card machine over this internet connection as well? How about grabbing a newer midrange Asus wireless router and replacing the existing one. For your wireless, make it isolated from your wired network and password protected for these chromebooks.
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Aug 11, 2014 22:45
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