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Yeah, that just looks like the HGUC kit colors to me, too. Alot of the promo photos make it look much bluer than it actually is. edit: Weird, the photos on Dalong look blue too, but the one I'm holding in my hand right now is teal as can be. SpikeMcclane fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Aug 14, 2014 |
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Aug 14, 2014 20:23
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SpikeMcclane posted:Yeah, that just looks like the HGUC kit colors to me, too. Alot of the promo photos make it look much bluer than it actually is. Can you check the color guide in the manual? I'd be curious to know whether it says to paint it blue or green. Maybe there are different versions of the kit.
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Aug 14, 2014 20:36
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Son Ryo posted:Can you check the color guide in the manual? I'd be curious to know whether it says to paint it blue or green. Maybe there are different versions of the kit. HGUC ReZel color guide: 
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Aug 14, 2014 21:16
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Zedd posted:HGUC ReZel color guide: Thanks, but I found that on my own already and it just results in blue, that's why I wanted Spike to check his manual in case it was a different version. EDIT: Apparently there was an online exclusive version of the ReZEL that was teal. Now I just need to track down someone who got it and can scan their manual... Son Ryo fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Aug 14, 2014 |
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Aug 14, 2014 21:19
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Son Ryo posted:Thanks, but I found that on my own already and it just results in blue, that's why I wanted Spike to check his manual in case it was a different version. The manual likely has the standard color guide if it was an online exclusive.
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Aug 14, 2014 21:40
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muike posted:The manual likely has the standard color guide if it was an online exclusive. What, really? drat, that's terrible. Thanks for letting me know before I wasted a bunch of time trying to track someone down, at least.
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Aug 14, 2014 21:46
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If I'm wrong, someone will likely chime in, but online exclusive guides tend to have as minimal changes to the printing as possible.
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Aug 14, 2014 21:48
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Well, actually, web exclusives tend to have a pack in sheet with color information, like this one for the recent web exclusive Zaku II: That said, I can't find a scan of the pack in sheet for the kit you're looking for, so sorry there.
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Aug 14, 2014 21:52
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In penance for being full of poo poo I'll take a look around and see what I can find.
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Aug 14, 2014 21:55
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Son Ryo posted:EDIT: Apparently there was an online exclusive version of the ReZEL that was teal. Now I just need to track down someone who got it and can scan their manual...
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Aug 14, 2014 21:55
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http://www.toysking.jp/wptest/idsyouhin.php?auctionID=s392137152 Manual insert doesn't look like it comes with color printing, but I'll check some more.
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Aug 14, 2014 22:03
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Zedd posted:Do you mean the one called "P-Bandai Hobby Online Shop Exclusive: HGUC 1/144 ReZEL Defensor [b-Unit] Type C" ? It's just listed as the ReZEL (DEFENSER b-UNIT) on the premium shop ( http://p-bandai.hk/hobby/special-1000000126/ ), but I think it is the Type-C. I've seen it listed as 'MSV Color' a few places, though.
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Aug 14, 2014 22:03
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Son Ryo posted:Thanks, but I found that on my own already and it just results in blue, that's why I wanted Spike to check his manual in case it was a different version. It'll probably take me a day or three to see if I still have the manual in storage, just in case, but I can confirm it was the regular release HGUC 108 Commander Type.
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Aug 15, 2014 02:10
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Cut a piece I thought was a sprue, it wasn't. Cut a piece off of the runner of about the same size and shape and used this to glue it back into place. http://smile.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-For-Plastics-1-15oz/dp/B0006N6ODS Let it sit for 24 hours and it just easily came away. Is this the right adhesive for the job? edit: this wasn't a matter of not noticing the warning in the manual, it was 2 shoulder pieces and one had a very obvious protrusion which didn't match the other.
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Aug 15, 2014 15:23
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You didn't let it cure long enough. I'd let the glue sit more like 2 days if it's something that has force applied to it during construction.
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Aug 15, 2014 15:30
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Twenty-four hours should be more than sufficient for a weld to not just come apart. If the piece in question is ABS, though, that cement won't work.
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Aug 15, 2014 16:22
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The piece in question was a shoulder with connecting nub. It was the material which the majority of runner parts are made out of which feels like ABS. It's the harder plastic that body parts usually are made out of. http://www.dalong.net/review/hg/h137/p/h137_r01.jpg B18 ? in this pic next to B16 at the top. I got the kit looking right by putting some cement further in where the shoulder pad connects and it looks fine, but I'm having the same issue with my Goog now, one of the leg connectors snapped as I was reconnecting the polycap. ChaiCalico fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Aug 16, 2014 |
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Aug 16, 2014 15:16
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madpanda posted:The piece in question was a shoulder with connecting nub. It was the material which the majority of runner parts are made out of which feels like ABS. It's the harder plastic that body parts usually are made out of. On the other side of the runner it should say PS or ABS on it somewhere.
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Aug 16, 2014 15:25
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Don't have the runners anymore but according to the manual its PS for Yonem Kirks, Gogg's manual doesn't say.
ChaiCalico fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Aug 16, 2014 |
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Aug 16, 2014 15:38
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ABS is generally used only for inner frame/joint parts, so that cement should have worked. Bear in mind, that stuff is not glue — it works by melting the plastic and creating a weld when it cures. You need to pay close attention to fit of the pieces and can't just glob on the goo & jam it on there (not saying that's what you did, but I've seen it happen.)
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Aug 16, 2014 16:21
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I tried to pay attention on Gogg, on Yonem kirks I was making a new connection from scratch since I mistakenly cut the old one. I didn't realize I bought that type of adhesive.
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Aug 16, 2014 16:26
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if you cut that mounting post off there's probably no way a cement weld would ever fix it. Breaks are somewhat easier to deal with. In such a case I'd probably drill out the remains of the post and replace it with plastic or brass rod, though a piece of runner might also work in a pinch.
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Aug 16, 2014 16:38
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madpanda posted:Don't have the runners anymore but according to the manual its PS for Yonem Kirks, Gogg's manual doesn't say. Well I've not done too many kits but I've never seen ABS used outside of emotion manipulators and the RG inner frames.
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Aug 16, 2014 16:49
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Luminaflare posted:Well I've not done too many kits but I've never seen ABS used outside of emotion manipulators and the RG inner frames. A bunch of the joint parts for the HG Messala are ABS.
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Aug 16, 2014 22:02
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http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=197649 Two of my favorite gundams, together at last!
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Aug 17, 2014 16:50
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Kitfox88 posted:http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=197649  It's glorious.poo poo, I'd almost be tempted to make that if I could spare the cash for some extra plastic crack...
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Aug 17, 2014 20:55
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That somehow looks much cooler than either of the things it's made from.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:21
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Just finished my first Gundam model, the HG 00 Raiser w/ GN Sword III. I had a great time putting it together (took about 6 or 7 hours over a couple of weekends, I'm not fast), and it came out pretty nice even though i did little to it other than following the instructions and trimming off all the nubs with an x-acto. I'm probably going to do one more HG and try a bit of panel lining / some light painting and try sanding down all the nubs after snipping / cutting them this time, but then I want to give an MG model a shot. I'm vaguely annoyed that there are some marks visible where I x-acto'd things, particularly on the grey plastic pieces. I've attached a crappy cell phone picture. It's really an awesome looking model. Now to figure out which one to try next.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:42
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To hide the nub marks, use an appropriately colored marker, dab the nub mark, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. It won't hide the mark completely(the only way to do that is paint), but it'll do a satisfactory job. As for your next HG kit, do you have a Gundam series you prefer? It'll help a lot with giving you suggestions. Also, your picture isn't showing up for me.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:47
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I've got that kit in my to do pile as well, looking forward to it, not seeing the picture either. Just finished Gundam Exia Repair II (whats with the repair tag, i was expecting some battle damage decals) The limbs are really nice on this model, love the sword as well, only thing im not 100% on is way the sword connects to the hand, it looks like it would be pretty solid but it falls out a lot. Think i'm going to start clear coating and taking pictures soon, picking up a new camera first though as mine is a 2 megapixel from ages back. Is there some sort of midground between an action base and none? I've noticed some of the models have a harder time standing up just something that would give a small amount of support but doesn't take up that much horizontal room. ChaiCalico fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 01:41
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madpanda posted:I've got that kit in my to do pile as well, looking forward to it, not seeing the picture either. Bad Engrish, mostly. The Exia Repair is the battle-damaged one-armed version from the first episode of season 2. The Exia Repair II is the Exia fully restored for a battle at the end of the series where Celestial Being had to use everything they had.
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Aug 18, 2014 01:46
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Finally finished building the gojulas I bought off Fauxtool. Posting it as per Fauxtool's request since I guess these don't make it out of Japan that often I guess. I haven't done anything to it besides building it and probably will revisit it later to at least top coat it when I learn how to top coat. drat this thing is huge For an album of my silliness with this model: http://imgur.com/a/1TgmL
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Aug 18, 2014 02:47
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TaurusOxford posted:To hide the nub marks, use an appropriately colored marker, dab the nub mark, and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. It won't hide the mark completely(the only way to do that is paint), but it'll do a satisfactory job. I've been watching 08th MS Team, but it's the first Gundam I've ever seen (I do like it, I'm thinking about perhaps the HG Zaku II for the next model, or I really wanted to try the HGUC Sinanju, but people steered me away from it due to the stickers). I originally just wanted to build robot models, but I bought Dynasty Warriors Gundam 2 and started watching the anime now to figure out what is what.  Is again a really bad picture. I'll have to get some markers, that seems a lot easier than painting for the time being. Substandard fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 02:59
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Yeah the pictures probably won't show up for most people, at least for a while, due to SA's dogshit attachment system
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Aug 18, 2014 03:00
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Substandard posted:I've been watching 08th MS Team, but it's the first Gundam I've ever seen (I do like it, I'm thinking about perhaps the HG Zaku II for the next model, or I really wanted to try the HGUC Sinanju, but people steered me away from it due to the stickers). I originally just wanted to build robot models, but I bought Dynasty Warriors Gundam 2 and started watching the anime now to figure out what is what. If you can find it for a decent price I recommend the HGUC Ez8.
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Aug 18, 2014 03:02
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Substandard posted:I've been watching 08th MS Team, but it's the first Gundam I've ever seen (I do like it, I'm thinking about perhaps the HG Zaku II for the next model, or I really wanted to try the HGUC Sinanju, but people steered me away from it due to the stickers). I originally just wanted to build robot models, but I bought Dynasty Warriors Gundam 2 and started watching the anime now to figure out what is what. Still can't see the image. Try using imgur instead. madpanda posted:Is there some sort of midground between an action base and none? I've noticed some of the models have a harder time standing up just something that would give a small amount of support but doesn't take up that much horizontal room. No, sorry. Some kits do come with basic fixed bases (generally the ones that have no actual way of standing on their own), but they're roughly also Action Base-height.
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Aug 18, 2014 03:02
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Substandard posted:Is again a really bad picture. Is again a picture I can't see. Use this from now on: http://imgur.com/ Following up TARDISman's suggestion, HGUC Ground Gundam is also a great kit, along with HGUC Gouf Custom if you want to go full-on 08th MS Team. As for Sinanju, don't be that scared of it. The stickers aren't that bad as long as you take your time with them. Just use the side of a toothpick to push the stickers down so they'll adhere better.
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Aug 18, 2014 03:09
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TaurusOxford posted:Is again a picture I can't see. Use this from now on: http://imgur.com/ Doesn't the HGUC Ground Gundam come with an extra head for the GM type?
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Aug 18, 2014 03:22
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TaurusOxford posted:Is again a picture I can't see. Use this from now on: http://imgur.com/ Sorry I generally hang out in the Games forum and have minimal use for screenshots. I switched the last post to imgur, so hopefully it is working now. I looked at the RX-79G Ground Gundam, but I hadn't seen the Ez8 (which is a pretty cool model). I also do really like the Gouf Custom, it was on my short list as well. If I am looking at markers, do I want the ultra fine set or the basic set? I am assuming the basic set since I won't really be lining anything with them.
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Aug 18, 2014 03:25
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TARDISman posted:Doesn't the HGUC Ground Gundam come with an extra head for the GM type? According to Dalong, no. Substandard posted:If I am looking at markers, do I want the ultra fine set or the basic set? I am assuming the basic set since I won't really be lining anything with them. If all you're looking to do is cover up nub marks, this will basically serve your needs: http://www.amazon.ca/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S Just keep in mind, the markers are meant for detail work at most - do NOT try and paint whole parts with them.
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Aug 18, 2014 03:32
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