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I don't see why "In case I need to stick it in some stupid bastard" isn't a good reason. 
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Aug 19, 2014 21:13
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slidebite posted:At risk of a total hijacking poo poo show, this is not a dichotomy or binary thing. Not all of us live in the US and have virtually none of the problems you allude to. I know, I don't either. I need a new angle grinder, my faithful aldi jobby sucked the brushes into the commutator and it liked like a dog ate it. I'm cheap, corded is fine. I'm also in the UK.
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Aug 19, 2014 21:25
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Splizwarf posted:I don't see why "In case I need to stick it in some stupid bastard" isn't a good reason.  Cakefool posted:I need a new angle grinder, my faithful aldi jobby sucked the brushes into the commutator and it liked like a dog ate it. I'm cheap, corded is fine. I'm also in the UK.
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Aug 19, 2014 22:56
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Cakefool posted:I need a new angle grinder, my faithful aldi jobby sucked the brushes into the commutator and it liked like a dog ate it. I'm cheap, corded is fine. I'm also in the UK. I got the second cheapest one from Screwfix and it's lasted a few years so far.
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Aug 19, 2014 23:21
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I got one of these knives and it think it's pretty cool. Really sharp too. As you can see it isn't locking. I got the plastic handle though http://www.svord.com/index.php?id_category=26&controller=category 
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Aug 19, 2014 23:25
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I was doing a radiator swap this weekend and wondered if something like these could help. Crescent CX6RWS7 Combination Wrench Set with Ratcheting Open-End and Static Box-End, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L86A7O/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_dxb9tb1QEDQ3J The Reviews are mixed for similar wrenches, but I saw some craftsman ones that looked decent quality. Does the tool thread have any anecdotes?
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Aug 20, 2014 04:33
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Not sure I would trust the ratcheting open end wrench design not to round stuff off and make a mess of bolts. Better to just get proper ratcheting wrenches even if they cost a little more. For just doing a radiator swap you probably don't need fancy ratcheting wrenches though. If you have those annoying hose clamps you might want one of these remote hose clamp pliers: http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Flexible-Clamp-Pliers-Water/dp/B00F3DP2KC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-4&keywords=hose+clamp+pliers I haven't used one but folks here say they are amazing, and after doing some cooling system work without them I can see where they would be incredibly useful.
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Aug 20, 2014 04:39
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Well, how round do you like your bolt heads? If your answer is "perfectly", i'd say go for it.
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Aug 20, 2014 04:39
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mod sassinator posted:Not sure I would trust the ratcheting open end wrench design not to round stuff off and make a mess of bolts. Better to just get proper ratcheting wrenches even if they cost a little more. For just doing a radiator swap you probably don't need fancy ratcheting wrenches though. If you have those annoying hose clamps you might want one of these remote hose clamp pliers: http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Flexible-Clamp-Pliers-Water/dp/B00F3DP2KC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-4&keywords=hose+clamp+pliers I haven't used one but folks here say they are amazing, and after doing some cooling system work without them I can see where they would be incredibly useful. I've used those "ratcheting" type wrenches quite a bit for work,they're really not as terrible rounding-wise as they seem, but the "ratchet" feature is stupid and makes tightening a bolt under ideal circumstances like 3% faster. I'd just by a regular ol' wrench.
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Aug 20, 2014 04:51
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mod sassinator posted:Not sure I would trust the ratcheting open end wrench design not to round stuff off and make a mess of bolts. Better to just get proper ratcheting wrenches even if they cost a little more. For just doing a radiator swap you probably don't need fancy ratcheting wrenches though. If you have those annoying hose clamps you might want one of these remote hose clamp pliers: http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Flexible-Clamp-Pliers-Water/dp/B00F3DP2KC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-4&keywords=hose+clamp+pliers I haven't used one but folks here say they are amazing, and after doing some cooling system work without them I can see where they would be incredibly useful. Also make sure you have a screwdriver handy to replace those clamps with the gear type. Every time I take one of those clamps off it goes straight into the trash. Even if I have to walk to the parts store because I just took the radiator hose off my car. Wasabi the J posted:I was doing a radiator swap this weekend and wondered if something like these could help. I don't know about the ratcheting open end. I've never used them but I'm extremely skeptical. That universal style of box end is good for stripping fasteners, too, especially if they're already a little bit rounded. I have a set of sockets in that style and I almost never use them. Although if something's already rounded, and won't come off, you might be able to hammer a smaller size on and use it like an extractor...
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Aug 20, 2014 06:22
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I saw something about a brillo-pad like wheel for use on a drill to take off rtv and paper gasket leavings quickly but lost track of it. Does anyone know what that is?
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Aug 20, 2014 13:31
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Parts Kit posted:I saw something about a brillo-pad like wheel for use on a drill to take off rtv and paper gasket leavings quickly but lost track of it. Does anyone know what that is? 3M Scotch Brite Rolocs. They are really easy to gouge with on large flat surfaces and you need to make sure you aren't leaving their leavings in the motor or it's gonna gently caress your day up.
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Aug 20, 2014 16:08
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bobbilljim posted:I got one of these knives and it think it's pretty cool. Really sharp too. As you can see it isn't locking. I got the plastic handle though Jesus, that looks fantastic. I'm in love.  Re: cable-operated remote hose clamp pliers: chiming in to say they are loving great and everyone should own one. Not only do they work really well as intended, they are also useful for a thousand random bullshit tasks where you could use a controllable clamp.
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Aug 20, 2014 17:39
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Motronic posted:3M Scotch Brite Rolocs. Don't ever use one on the headgasket surface of an engine, ever. The aluminum oxide from them gets everywhere, and will royally gently caress up everything.
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Aug 20, 2014 21:33
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InitialDave posted:Somewhat annoying, just got myself a nice new Swiss army knife (Victorinox Workchamp), and barely have I opened the box, my MD points out to me that it's illegal to actually carry because the blade locks and is 4" long. I think you are worrying too much. Unless you are a twat or the policeman you happened to be dealing with was a twat I think you have a good reason for carrying it. Its just about context. If you have it in your pocket when you are walking round town or on a night out, or keep it by the front door at home or in the door pocket of you car then you should be done for it as you are an idiot. If it is in your pocket while you work (in a practical job that needs a knife) and then in the bottom of your bag along with the rest of your essential poo poo for the rest of the day its no problem. My penknife is a 3" lock knife. It lives in the bottom of my rucksack which I carry if I walk anywhere more than 5 minutes away from the car/home. My rucksack also has a headtorch and a small first aid kit along with my coat and a load of other I do a 2 mile each way rural walk to my favorite local pub once or twice a week and my rucksack comes with me (I need a coat and a torch on the way home!). The bag gets chucked in my car/landy when i leave the house and it might end up going to the shops with me if i'm walking or buying anything more than one item. I feel in this context I have a use for the knife and it should be there. When I was 15-20 I used to do loads of scouting and camp most weekends. I remember once walking through the city centre on a saturday afternoon carrying air rifles and various sharp, flammable and alcoholic items and getting chatted to by a passing bobby who said 'keep them in the bags, don't do anything stupid and enjoy your weekend' and left us to it.
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Aug 20, 2014 22:43
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I specifically want something that I can just stick in my jacket pocket with my keys etc and just leave there. I have plenty of stuff to do a given job when required, but the entire point of a Swiss army knife is that you just have it there as a useful gadget! I'm fully aware that I would probably be ok with the Workchamp, but given the vagaries of the law, it's not worth the risk to me. Frankly there are a ton of other things I'm far more dangerous with, and generally to myself rather than others, but if they will insist on applying the law to me as well as others, I think I'll just grumble about it and sidestep this one.
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Aug 20, 2014 23:32
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sharkytm posted:Don't ever use one on the headgasket surface of an engine, ever. The aluminum oxide from them gets everywhere, and will royally gently caress up everything. Like, from ether powder loving up the bores/grinding away at things? Or is there a powder+coolant chemistry thing?
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Aug 21, 2014 01:48
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Frank Dillinger posted:Like, from ether powder loving up the bores/grinding away at things? Or is there a powder+coolant chemistry thing? Aluminum oxide is what is used as an abrasive on sandpaper. And these discs. So the former.
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Aug 21, 2014 02:03
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Dang, didn't realize they were treated with aluminum oxide. Any reason you couldn't just use a regular scotch brite pad like what's used on pots and pans and some elbow grease?
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Aug 21, 2014 02:35
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nm
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Aug 21, 2014 02:38
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Parts Kit posted:Any reason you couldn't just use a regular scotch brite pad like what's used on pots and pans and some elbow grease? No.......but they're made out of the same thing. So if you have an appropriate use case and air tools why would you?
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Aug 21, 2014 03:11
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Motronic posted:No.......but they're made out of the same thing. So if you have an appropriate use case and air tools why would you?
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Aug 21, 2014 04:46
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Parts Kit posted:Are the green household pads covered in aluminum oxide? Can't say I ever noticed it if so. The maroon colored pads are the non-woven ones with aluminum oxide on the outside. The green woven have an abrasive bonded to the fibers throughout, and I can't find anywhere 3M discloses what exactly that abrasive is. Doesn't sound like something that's worth the risk to me.
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Aug 21, 2014 15:13
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Yeah, in general, if it's abrasive, you don't want the residue in your engine. I don't care what magical application/bonding method is used.
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Aug 21, 2014 15:17
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Motronic posted:The maroon colored pads are the non-woven ones with aluminum oxide on the outside. The green woven have an abrasive bonded to the fibers throughout, and I can't find anywhere 3M discloses what exactly that abrasive is. http://academic.evergreen.edu/projects/biophysics/technotes/fabric/finish.pdf
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Aug 21, 2014 16:49
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Is there a good ratchet/socket brand that's significantly better quality than Craftsman but not quite at a SnapOn price point? I haven't been impressed with the newer Craftsman stuff (broken ratchets, cracked sockets...never had an issue with their older tools). I don't mind paying a premium for tools that will last, but I also don't have 10k to drop on a socket set.
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Aug 22, 2014 01:08
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I'm going to parrot what I learned at garagejournal forums when I was researching a tool set. The big thing they talk about is country of origin, mainly china vs taiwan with taiwan generally hitting the quality spot you are talking about. So any of the big box brands that have a set that is made in taiwan should do you fine. I'm assuming you have new craftsman that is made in china? I have some misc. craftsman stuff from my dad that's usa made and it's not as good as the set I bought. I bought this set which is made in taiwan and I've been real happy with it. The wrenches are ok, somewhat limited but you should hopefully have those already. It's like 40-50 lbs id estimate: http://www.sears.com/dewalt-socket-set/p-00939204000P I also have a smaller kobalt set (lowes) that's also made in taiwan and it's as good as the dewalt set.
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Aug 22, 2014 02:17
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Proto maybe? Navy uses em on their ships. Not that much cheaper though.
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Aug 22, 2014 02:18
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Hollis Brown posted:I'm going to parrot what I learned at garagejournal forums when I was researching a tool set. The big thing they talk about is country of origin, mainly china vs taiwan with taiwan generally hitting the quality spot you are talking about. So any of the big box brands that have a set that is made in taiwan should do you fine. Williams in particular. Make really good stuff and the pricing can be attractive. If by chance you live in Canada, I can help you out. full online catalog
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Aug 22, 2014 02:49
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A lot of companies have a Good -> Better -> Best (or just Good -> Best) system with their brands, with the Good and Better being import, and the Best being made in the US. For Stanley, it goes: Stanley and Expert (import) -> Blackhawk (import) -> Proto (US) For Apex Tool Group: Crescent (import) -> Gearwrench (import) -> Armstrong (US) Wright Tool: Cougar Pro (import) -> Wright (US) My company stocks a Mexican brand called Urrea. I guess the story goes that Proto used to have a factory in Mexico. Through ownership changes, Proto brought everything back to the US, but Urrea continued to make the same tools in Mexico. It's arguably the same quality(in fact, their part numbers are eerily similar), and they make all of the same really heavy industrial spud wrenches, striking wrenches, and impact sockets, etc. I believe their smaller sized hand sockets are imported from Taiwan, but we have some pretty large contractors that buy their tools without complaint or issue.
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Aug 22, 2014 03:47
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Minus Pants posted:significantly better quality than Craftsman I know it's the Tools Thread broken record, but: Harbor Freight. Their impact and chrome sockets are both dependable, and easily shame the current state of Craftsman tools. I've blown up a bunch of Craftsman and Duralast sockets, but my HF sockets take even more abuse and with zero complaint. Well, except the multicolor nylon-sleeved lugnut sockets, but they're deliberately very thin-walled to accommodate the nylon sleeve (and one of my co-workers keeps blowing his suspiciously-identical Matco ones just as often so v  v).
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Aug 22, 2014 04:06
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quote is not edit
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Aug 22, 2014 04:08
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Splizwarf posted:I know it's the Tools Thread broken record, but: Harbor Freight. Their impact and chrome sockets are both dependable, and easily shame the current state of Craftsman tools. I've blown up a bunch of Craftsman and Duralast sockets, but my HF sockets take even more abuse and with zero complaint. Quoted for what everyone knows. I have broken a dozen Craftsman sockets of the last year and maybe 1 HF socket.
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Aug 22, 2014 04:12
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I've got a mix of Crescent, Husky, Craftsman (hand-me-downs), and some HF sockets. Honestly, the Craftsman is the worst of it.
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Aug 22, 2014 04:17
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Minus Pants posted:Is there a good ratchet/socket brand that's significantly better quality than Craftsman but not quite at a SnapOn price point? I haven't been impressed with the newer Craftsman stuff (broken ratchets, cracked sockets...never had an issue with their older tools). I don't mind paying a premium for tools that will last, but I also don't have 10k to drop on a socket set. I've been really happy with the SK sockets I bought a few months ago. They're made in the USA and their quality is way better than Craftsman, but they're not horribly expensive-a full set of SAE and metric sockets in normal and deep sizes runs about $150 with a ratchet and extensions on Amazon. I got mine used from a pawn shop for about $80. They're probably overkill for a hack like me but they'll probably be the last ones I buy (if I don't lose any).
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Aug 22, 2014 04:55
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Motronic posted:The maroon colored pads are the non-woven ones with aluminum oxide on the outside. The green woven have an abrasive bonded to the fibers throughout, and I can't find anywhere 3M discloses what exactly that abrasive is.
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Aug 22, 2014 05:14
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I absolutely abuse my older craftsman stuff and it holds up really well, but when i put the same treatment to my newer stuff, it crumbles. I'm a huge fan of my HF impact sockets though, they have been through hell and never let me down.
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Aug 22, 2014 05:38
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Parts Kit posted:Ugh, great. Is there any other way to remove stuck rtv or paper gasket material that's faster than scraping with a razor and doesn't have this risk? Maybe just a plain-jane wire wheel? Sharp razor blades. I go through 2 or three on a water pump. They are cheap, but they don't stay sharp long. Having the right selection of blade handles makes a huge difference.
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Aug 22, 2014 15:29
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Parts Kit posted:Ugh, great. Is there any other way to remove stuck rtv or paper gasket material that's faster than scraping with a razor and doesn't have this risk? Maybe just a plain-jane wire wheel? Aircraft stripper or acetone can soften that poo poo up. Depending on the surface, be careful with the razor, it can gouge aluminum block faces, etc.
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Aug 22, 2014 15:50
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Tamir Lenk posted:be careful with the razor, it can gouge aluminum block faces, etc. Yeah, always shallow angles. That's why having the right handles (a selection of them) is important for tight spaces.
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Aug 22, 2014 15:57
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