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Eirgen posted:Finally finished building the gojulas I bought off Fauxtool. Posting it as per Fauxtool's request since I guess these don't make it out of Japan that often I guess. I haven't done anything to it besides building it and probably will revisit it later to at least top coat it when I learn how to top coat. niiiice, that thing is huge. Im glad it was sold to someone that would build it. To topcoat it, goto your local gaming hobbystore (warhammer and that kind of stuff) and buy some matte or semigloss in a spray can. Disassemble it into its major components, like arms, head, tail segments, and spray it. Remove any clear plastics and dont spray those. Its very simple and it makes a huge difference. I wouldnt worry about panel lining it, im not sure it really needs it considering its big enough to cast a lot of its own shadows without needing the illusion of depth Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 03:40
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Okay, guys, I'm finally getting my Wing Gundam Fenice from months ago ready for some topcoat, but I have an extremely technical question I need answered beforehand. How do I get the clear piece of plastic out of there?  Trying to pry it out with the tip of my knife makes me feel like I'm gonna scratch it. Do I need to mask it in order to stop it frosting over?
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Aug 18, 2014 05:54
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Your best option is to mask it. That piece wasn't really designed to come out once inserted. You could just leave the yellow piece off altogether and reattach it once you finish the topcoat - I highly doubt it'll even be noticeable.
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Aug 18, 2014 05:59
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TaurusOxford posted:Your best option is to mask it. That piece wasn't really designed to come out once inserted. You could just leave the yellow piece off altogether and reattach it once you finish the topcoat - I highly doubt it'll even be noticeable. That's fair; I'll probably go with leaving it off for the initial painting, then. I'll go back and mask and paint it individually if it sticks out too much. Thanks! Tomorrow I'll post some pictures of the SD Gundam mk. IV I touched up for my girlfriend (it looks terrible, still), and then maybe a WIP or two of another kit I picked out for her desk at work. 
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Aug 18, 2014 06:03
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TaurusOxford posted:Is again a picture I can't see. Use this from now on: http://imgur.com/ 
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Aug 18, 2014 07:05
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I just finished this strapping young gentleman right here.  I'm pretty happy with how he turned out. I forgot to take out the center clear piece, so it looks a little cloudy, but I kind of like it. Makes it seem like it's softly glowing. I put on just enough paint to cover the nib marks, but my next gunpla (zaku II) is going to be primed and painted completely! Can't wait to get started.
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Aug 18, 2014 08:19
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Zedd posted:If you get an HGUC Sinanju I'd invest in a 2 bucks golden paint marker (doesn't have to be gundam marker brand, mine is generic hobby shop) and use that over stickers. Definitely do not bother with gold or silver Gundam Markers, they are quite worthless. Any well-stocked craft store should have some decent enamel-based metallic paint pens
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Aug 18, 2014 10:42
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Bimmi posted:Definitely do not bother with gold or silver Gundam Markers, they are quite worthless. 
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Aug 18, 2014 11:40
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"Doesn't have to be" versus "definitely shouldn't be."
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Aug 18, 2014 13:58
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http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-detail-line-tutorial http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-line-detailing-equipment Since there are a few other new people talking now, I found these guides helpful when I started (2 weeks ago), also it shows the pigma micron pens which can be picked up at michaels or most other craft stores in the US. I really wish they came in grey though.
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Aug 18, 2014 14:11
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Kitfox88 posted:http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=197649 That is basically what I would want in Build Fighters, specifically those last two pics holy poo poo 
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Aug 18, 2014 16:39
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It's not Gunpla, but Bandai just announced a new line called Metal Robot Damashii, which will mix the articulation of a RD with the look and feel of a Chogokin: http://gundamguy.blogspot.ca/2014/08/bandai-metal-robot-damashii-new-product.html I don't know why they wouldn't just call it the Real Robot Chogokin line, but whatever. Not that amazing to me anyway.
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Aug 18, 2014 19:56
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It sounds neat and all but I wish they would have announced actual products or showed prototypes. Still, as a guy who has a cabinet full of Robot Damashii and Chogokin toys, I can't say I'm not intrigued.
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Aug 18, 2014 20:15
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Bimmi posted:What are you trying to mask and how exactly is it not fitting? Sorry, I know this is from about a week ago but my wife got me sick and then I couldn't be bothered to grab my camera. It isn't gunpla but I don't want to learn a bunch of new assholes in the scale modeling thread when I know you guys are probably equally adept at schooling me on paint. I need to mask off the three bumpy areas on the USS Defiant's main deflector:  I tried doing the "scribble on a piece of painter's tape with a pencil" trick so I could cut out the proper shape but I was having trouble working in such a small area sunken into its surroundings. The test I ran using Micro Mask on my Harlequin Gundam (paint mule) was encouraging but I'd still like to know what to look out for before I screw this up. Here's the original shooting model for reference (from a site that would rather I not repost pictures):  The area I'm looking to mask off is the clear bit since Paramount/CBS can afford to put lights in their 3 foot studio models. Protip: Never look at your models (in-progress or finished) and a much larger, professional model built for film use at the same time because its depressing. Oh, and if anyone has any tips for filling seam lines with dried out Milliput (other than to cut off the crusty outer part), I'm all ears.
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Aug 19, 2014 06:44
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Cat Hatter posted:Sorry, I know this is from about a week ago but my wife got me sick and then I couldn't be bothered to grab my camera. It isn't gunpla but I don't want to learn a bunch of new assholes in the scale modeling thread when I know you guys are probably equally adept at schooling me on paint. why are you trying to mask off those three inner areas? I'm guessing that you plan on painting the whole thing (not leaving the inner parts blue) so why not just paint it all the color you are going to make the inner parts then just use a brush to do the outter areas? That'd be much easier. If you are dead set on masking those areas they sell a clear film for models called 'frisket film' which you can lay over top and then cut away what you don't need and since its clear you aren't doing much guess work on where you are cutting. Its made for airbrushing and such.
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Aug 19, 2014 07:12
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Blackchamber posted:why are you trying to mask off those three inner areas? I'm guessing that you plan on painting the whole thing (not leaving the inner parts blue) so why not just paint it all the color you are going to make the inner parts then just use a brush to do the outter areas? That'd be much easier. I appologize for not explaining this very well. This is what it's supposed to look like:  The only parts I've painted are the glowing blue parts (there are some on the back as well) which I did in a two part silver with clear blue over top. Now I need to mask off the areas that will stay blue while I paint the rest in an azteking grey/blue/yellow pattern. The problem I'm having is using tape to mask off that one piece so I picked up some Micro Mask (which seemed to work ok in preliminary tests) but I've never worked with it before and others had mentioned having problems with it so I was trying to mitigate the damage, especially since I've never tried a paint job this intricate before (and usually find something to screw up on my other projects). But since this is the gunpla thread and I keep talking about my Star Tracks, here is the only paintjob I'm really happy with. My 1/48 Gundam:  It isn't too complex, the lighting sucks, I didn't fix the seam lines, there is a minor error where the shin/calf changes color and I didn't paint the white parts before topcoating everything; but I still really like it.
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Aug 19, 2014 07:36
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I'm laughing way more than I should be at Sinanju looking at he's aiming for a red comet kick at the RX-78-2's head. Well done on the paintjob.
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Aug 19, 2014 07:40
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use liquid masking fluid, since you are trying to leave the raised parts unmasked it will be very easy
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Aug 19, 2014 07:44
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Yeah, that's one of those rare cases where a liquid mask might be the only sane solution. Looks like a real headache of a job otherwise.
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Aug 19, 2014 08:11
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I expect a headache either way. I still haven't even decided on the order I'm going to lay down the 5 layers of paint I need to do aside from priming and top coating.
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Aug 19, 2014 08:15
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Before I do it, how much of a horrible mess am I going to make top/clear coating (is this the same thing) a completed model? The few tutorials i've found seem to recommend doing it to individual pieces. I ask if they are the same thing because I asked for top coat at the store and they said oh you mean clear coat, and handed me a can of testors spray lacquer matte which seemed to match up with the tutorials. But they refer to it as top coat.
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Aug 19, 2014 15:19
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madpanda posted:Before I do it, how much of a horrible mess am I going to make top/clear coating (is this the same thing) a completed model? The few tutorials i've found seem to recommend doing it to individual pieces. They're the same thing. A top coat is (almost always) literally a clear coat of paint. It's protective, because it's another layer of paint anything damaging needs to go through. I would highly suggest testing it out on a piece of the model's sprue or something first, if you're worried, but it should work fine. The easiest way to do a completed model, from what I've heard, is to pop the limbs and head and extra bits off, and spray each chunk individually. Also to spray them with the joints fully extended, and then again fully bent. It should be really easy, though I'll admit I'm still working towards doing it myself. Kurui Reiten fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Aug 21, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 15:26
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It's usually not that hard to break a robot down to its component assemblies. Spraying a complete arm or leg is something you never want to do unless there's no way around it, but spraying each individual part is generally overkill Also be aware that Testors clearcoats are generally regarded as junk.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:14
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I was going by http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-top-coat-guide It seemed like the easiest Matte coat to get in the US. What's a better option? I'm not anywhere near the point of wanting to drop money on an airbrush.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:24
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Someone who knows more about topcoats will have to weigh in here. I'd personally go with Gunze Sangyo when taking the spraycan route, but poo poo ain't cheap. Games Workshop spraycoats have a rep for being formulated very "hot" and I've heard some horror stories. Fuckin' LOL to using Krylon for anything. You can give Dullcote a shot, just be aware that it's apparently very tetchy about humidity and temperature conditions. Testors also makes Model Master clearcoats which may be a different formula.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:37
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Its taken me a while but I found I had a whole Gunpla kit I forgot I even bought! Back at Connecticon 2011 or 2012 I bought the Gundam X Divider and at the con I had assembled the upper body and shoulders. So what better kit to work on first after a long Gunpla hiatus? https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd....008485a13cc9a46 And now it is assembled and stickered. I just need to touch up paint, panel ink, and topcoat. Though I might mod it a bit to use some parts from the mid 90s 144 X kit. Satellite Cannon! The old 144 is so ancient and yellowed and built by less skilled hands its mostly just parts fodder at this point so I could try primerpainting it, gluing it, sanding, and topcoating as an experiment and then managing to find a way to keep most of the Divider backpack while still having a top loading Satellite Cannon. I think underslung would be kind of gauche. Plus I wouldn't mind trying to give the Divider Shield a forearm attachment so Garrod can go full Warhammer 40K sans the massive Skull Fetish. (Unless I decide to get the Build Fighters Skull Pack. But I would almost rather use that with the RG Aile Strike kit and make like the KHORNE CUSTOM MURDERGUNDAM. If I can find a proper sized Chainaxe anyhow..)
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Aug 19, 2014 22:30
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Paint question before I accidentally destroy the Noblesse Oblige that's coming my way pretty soon. I have some plastic spoons that I'll test this out on before I do anything, but I also figured I'd ask here first to make sure I'm not misunderstanding. My plan is acrylic paint -> enamel panel line wash -> dullcote, with Future on the shiny gold parts instead. Is this doable, or will this cause problems?
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Aug 20, 2014 00:09
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That'll work fine. Future the acrylic before you do the panel wash though, or else you might rub off paint along with the panel wash excess.
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Aug 20, 2014 00:24
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That sounds like the correct order, though you should spray a primer coat before laying down the acrylic.
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Aug 20, 2014 00:25
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I just got a new job, which means it's time to blow a nice chunk of a paycheck on plastic robots! I was hoping someone here could recommend me some cool/fun to assemble HGUC kits. I'm trying to keep it relatively simple after the 12 hour autism fest that was the RG RX782.
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Aug 20, 2014 02:15
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Almost any HG should be fine in comparison to an RG. Try one of the recent All Gundam kits I guess.
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Aug 20, 2014 02:32
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Literally The Worst posted:I just got a new job, which means it's time to blow a nice chunk of a paycheck on plastic robots! I was hoping someone here could recommend me some cool/fun to assemble HGUC kits. I'm trying to keep it relatively simple after the 12 hour autism fest that was the RG RX782. Since your looking to blow your paycheck I think the HG Neo Zeong may be just what your looking for.
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Aug 20, 2014 03:50
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Gaius Marius posted:Since your looking to blow your paycheck I think the HG Neo Zeong may be just what your looking for. Let's aim a touch cheaper.
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Aug 20, 2014 04:20
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Literally The Worst posted:Let's aim a touch cheaper. Goji's Top Pick for Dickeye. Alternatively.
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Aug 20, 2014 04:57
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Think i've got my first mg narrowed down, which I will only buy when I finish the backlog of HG's I have. Char's Zaku II ver 2.0 http://www.dalong.net/review/mg/mg98/mg98_p.htm The dalong review seems pretty favorable, anyone build this that can chime in? Building this badass motherfucker right now http://www.dalong.net/review/hg/h122/h122_i.htm Geara Zulu [Guards Type] Which I got from Faltion ChaiCalico fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Aug 20, 2014 |
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Aug 20, 2014 14:10
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You literally can't go wrong with 2.0 kits. Zeta 2.0 is the weakest, and even it's still a great build, it just can't pose for poo poo and transforming it is a nightmare.
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Aug 20, 2014 15:30
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Literally The Worst posted:I just got a new job, which means it's time to blow a nice chunk of a paycheck on plastic robots! I was hoping someone here could recommend me some cool/fun to assemble HGUC kits. I'm trying to keep it relatively simple after the 12 hour autism fest that was the RG RX782. Try one of the HGCE Strike Gundams (Strike or Strike Rouge, the version with numbers in the main HG line of around 170-ish), or give either of the Build Strike's a look. They're nice solid kits, and set up to be compatible with just about any Booster or accessory pack that may take your fancy.
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Aug 20, 2014 17:53
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Is there a list out there of which HG kits are All Gundam? I want to slap a ton of kits together but I'd like to not have to plastic cement them to do it.
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Aug 20, 2014 17:56
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The Muffinlord posted:Is there a list out there of which HG kits are All Gundam? I want to slap a ton of kits together but I'd like to not have to plastic cement them to do it. Any Gundam after the Wing Gundam, iirc. Though the V's and F91 might not be useable for what you have in mind because of their smaller stature. On a side note, I'm surprised they haven't done an All-Gundam RX-78-02 release yet, even if just as a rebranded G30th.
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Aug 20, 2014 18:04
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Does that include outliers like the Zssa or is it literally anything with Gundam in the unit designation?
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Aug 20, 2014 18:07
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