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Neddy Seagoon posted:Well you could at least tell us which ones . HG Forbidden Gundam remaster HG MS08 Custom Gouf HG Cherudim Gundam HG 00 Rasier + GN Sword 3
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 03:47 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 20:20 |
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Yeah, I really don't like that. I love the big bulky Double Zeta too much.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 03:48 |
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BlitzBlast posted:OH MY GOOOOOO- it's the really ugly slim redesign I don't like at all. I kinda dig it to be honest. I do admit it's weird they went for THAT resin ZZ when there's 2-3 others that actually retain ZZ's traditional bulk.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 04:03 |
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Backlogs, is it? I'm not in a location where I can get a picture, but: HG Bearguy-san HG Cherudim SD 00 Gundam SD Full Armor Unicorn (in progress) MG Build Strike Full Package (plus the booster thing) MG Exia Ignition Mode MG Exia Repair II MG Wing Proto Zero RG Strike Freedom Oh yeah, and NG 1/144 Gundams Wing, Deathscythe, and Sandrock. The R-II was what started this entire thing for me, too.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 04:25 |
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The Muffinlord posted:Well then sell some to us you dweeb I've tried. Surprisingly enough, there's no demand for partially built 30-year-old crap and '90s vintage SD kits, which make up about 90% of what I'd still like to get rid of.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 04:53 |
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Not pictured the RG Gundam MK.II and Thunderbolt Zaku II in my HLJ warehouse. I've started on that Reborns half a dozen times and never finished it because I keep thinking I'm going to gently caress it up, so I should wait and finish it once I've had more practice.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 06:14 |
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Well I got the Soulgain that was on sale last week/two weeks ago and built it today. It looks nice but the shoulder connectors are just the worst loving thing. Try to adjust it even a little bit and the arms plop right off.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 07:15 |
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You guys really need help if your backlogs are that deep. But I'm not going to be the one to give it to you, as I picked up a few things myself today. Got lucky with a trip to my local hobby shop to find they had both a Valuable Pod and a Gunpla Starter Set Vol 2 (A G30th Edition RX-78-02 with a lining pen), something I've been hunting for for ages. The VP was actually a surprising find as their "new-release" stock is usual not more recent than about 2-3 months ago, and they're taking preorders for the upcoming Build Fighters Tri and G-Reco kits, so it looks like they're catching up to Japan's release dates. Pray for me .
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 08:51 |
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Bimmi posted:I've tried. Surprisingly enough, there's no demand for partially built 30-year-old crap and '90s vintage SD kits, which make up about 90% of what I'd still like to get rid of. If you've got a partially built Super Gundam I'd be game for that. I'd like a Dendrobium-like gun for my GP-03, and that looks the best.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 08:53 |
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I don't own that many kits but I did clean up my backlog in the last year or so; I only had 3 kits to do but still. I did buy HGUC Banshee Norn Destory Mode + Banshee Head display stand I am planning a order around march though (1/100RE gp04 come to me ) and ill likely treat myself to a few kits for xmas.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 10:15 |
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I've started using gundam markers in lieu of fighting with tiny mono color stickers, sometimes not so tiny when I can tell that they are just going to come off, fist wrappers etc. I notice, and this is probably due to my technique, that there is a decent amount of pooling on bigger pieces. How can I avoid that ? They come out decent enough if uneven.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 14:00 |
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madpanda posted:I've started using gundam markers in lieu of fighting with tiny mono color stickers, sometimes not so tiny when I can tell that they are just going to come off, fist wrappers etc. I notice, and this is probably due to my technique, that there is a decent amount of pooling on bigger pieces. How can I avoid that ? They come out decent enough if uneven. Gundam Markers are just terrible dogshit. Use a small brush + paint for the tiny parts.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 14:08 |
madpanda posted:I've started using gundam markers in lieu of fighting with tiny mono color stickers, sometimes not so tiny when I can tell that they are just going to come off, fist wrappers etc. I notice, and this is probably due to my technique, that there is a decent amount of pooling on bigger pieces. How can I avoid that ? They come out decent enough if uneven. Popehoist is right, get a small brush and some paints. But until then try painting the part from below, that will minimize the amount of paint that comes out. Also use multiple light coats, etc.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 14:18 |
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I just want a good 1/100 ZZ.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 14:25 |
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ZZ's 30th anno (gently caress I'M OLD) is coming up pretty soon, wouldn't be surprised at all if it's next year's ver.Ka,
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 14:36 |
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Bimmi posted:ZZ's 30th anno (gently caress I'M OLD) is coming up pretty soon, wouldn't be surprised at all if it's next year's ver.Ka,
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 14:48 |
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Popehoist posted:Gundam Markers are just terrible dogshit. Use a small brush + paint for the tiny parts. Pretty much what I figured, i guess I can use the markers as extra paint at least. They do fine for coloring in sights/very small areas, once you get to anything bigger though...
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 15:12 |
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Bimmi posted:ZZ's 30th anno (gently caress I'M OLD) is coming up pretty soon, wouldn't be surprised at all if it's next year's ver.Ka, Okay, so not getting an MG ZZ would be a good idea. With my luck, the second I buy one, they'll announce a 2.0 or ver ka a month after.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 15:22 |
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Gammatron 64 posted:Okay, so not getting an MG ZZ would be a good idea. With my luck, the second I buy one, they'll announce a 2.0 or ver ka a month after. Someone in the thread has to buy one to trigger the
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 16:14 |
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I'm getting the feeling I won't be getting a replacement antenna for the RX-78-2 Evolve 15. So I'm gonna do something stupid. I'll be getting Grey Stuff (edit: actually it's something else) epoxy and will attempt to make a replacement piece sans spiky antennae. I'm not a fan of those anyway. Wish me luck!
Ledenko fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Sep 6, 2014 |
# ? Sep 6, 2014 17:14 |
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Whoever linked that cheap Soulgain, thanks. It came in the mail today, I was expecting a crap model and instead it's the cool $50+ one.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 19:32 |
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HGUC Zeta Plus is really cool, I just wish HLJ had emailed me sooner to tell me that it was all set at after the recall, instead of having to email and ask near the end of its private warehouse lifetime
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 20:07 |
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Ledenko posted:I'm getting the feeling I won't be getting a replacement antenna for the RX-78-2 Evolve 15. So I'm gonna do something stupid. I'll be getting Grey Stuff (edit: actually it's something else) epoxy and will attempt to make a replacement piece sans spiky antennae. I'm not a fan of those anyway. Wish me luck! Will one of these not work? Edit: Eh, didn't read all the way to the end of your post. Good luck, dude.
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# ? Sep 6, 2014 20:36 |
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Any tips for using plastic cement? Should I be just holding pieces together and go down the seam line or open them alittle and cement in the seam line. Planning on practicing on some cut up runners first before trying actual parts. I also shaved pegs and bored some of the holes inside parts for easy disassembly, do I need to cement those as well?
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 01:57 |
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Tenzarin posted:Any tips for using plastic cement? Should I be just holding pieces together and go down the seam line or open them alittle and cement in the seam line. Planning on practicing on some cut up runners first before trying actual parts. I also shaved pegs and bored some of the holes inside parts for easy disassembly, do I need to cement those as well? You can do it either way. I usually put it on the mating surfaces when the interface is fairly wide and paint the seam when it's not. Keeping the cement on the mating surface means less mess on the outside since the cement melts the plastic it contacts. If you shaved pegs you might put a dab on them too, since they're designed to be the structural support.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 02:19 |
Tenzarin posted:Any tips for using plastic cement? Should I be just holding pieces together and go down the seam line or open them alittle and cement in the seam line. Planning on practicing on some cut up runners first before trying actual parts. I also shaved pegs and bored some of the holes inside parts for easy disassembly, do I need to cement those as well? You want to put the cement on any surfaces that will come in contact with each other and then hold the surfaces against each other for a minute or so. After that leave the part for a while to let the weld cure, then you clean up the surface with a hobby knife/sandpaper/files.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 02:20 |
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how in the sweet gently caress do you get the sazabi to actually hold its rifles? Every time I try it looks like the wrists are just too shallow and the butt of the rifle is hitting the forearm.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 02:55 |
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slightpirate posted:how in the sweet gently caress do you get the sazabi to actually hold its rifles? Every time I try it looks like the wrists are just too shallow and the butt of the rifle is hitting the forearm. If you mean the normal beam rifle, you have to tilt the wrist so that the stock is on the inside of Sazabi's arm. For the long rifle, the only feasible way to pull that off is to two-hand it with the rifle going across Sazabi's chest.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 03:08 |
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IT IS mostly FINISHED. All I need to do is paint the orange psychoframe like I did the V-Fin, since I found the right color combination to get the right shade, but I'm holding off on that for a bit. I also finished the Phenex, which was a build that the universe straight up did not want me to finish. Parts were warped/cracked, some pieces were missing, (the crest is straight up gone for some reason), and the expected extra finish troubles combined with the general MG Unicorn jankiness made for a hell of a struggle, but it looks good for now. I'll get to repainting it a more reasonable gold in the future, but I need to do a parts order first to replace the broken crap because apparently play-asia manhandles their kits. Damned if it isn't an impressively shiny bastard though.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 03:56 |
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S-Alpha posted:IT IS mostly FINISHED. looks great you literal crazy person
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 04:35 |
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i was hype that the zeta plus A1 hguc looks like it's ready for anything and everything up to a loving hummingbird release, but that's probably more impressive
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 04:38 |
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S-Alpha posted:IT IS mostly FINISHED. Hahaha, jesus man, don't you think you went a little overboard on the decals for the Banshee's Armed Armors? The gun is practically a candy cane.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 05:01 |
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There is no such thing as going overboard on decals. My only limit is the amount I'm willing to spend on waterslides.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 05:07 |
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Tenzarin posted:Any tips for using plastic cement? Should I be just holding pieces together and go down the seam line or open them alittle and cement in the seam line. Planning on practicing on some cut up runners first before trying actual parts. I also shaved pegs and bored some of the holes inside parts for easy disassembly, do I need to cement those as well? I will generally brush cement on the mating surfaces of both parts, wait a few seconds, and then repeat so that the surfaces look/are wet. I like to see a little bead of melted plastic squish up when the parts are pressed together: it means the seam will be mostly if not completely filled when the weld cures, lessening the need for any extra fillers and ensuring a strong bond. I dislike using the capillary action method, which I find messy, uncontrollable, and flat-out ineffective. The drawback to my method is that the join may take a long time to fully cure if you're overly-liberal with the cement application. Using clamps or tape to hold parts together is not something I've really had to do with Bandai kits. Pressing the parts firmly together for 30-60 seconds is usually sufficient. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Sep 7, 2014 |
# ? Sep 7, 2014 05:31 |
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On a whim I picked up one of the MSN-001A1 Delta Plus boxes at aus comiccon yesterday, what can I say I loving love transformers. First actual gundam that's not a tiny guntank. Holy crap this thing is awesome. I'm sure I'll be able to stop at one.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 14:11 |
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Cassa posted:I'm sure I'll be able to stop at one. Sure you will. That's what we all said.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 14:52 |
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Cassa posted:I'm sure I'll be able to stop at one. You poor fool .
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 15:25 |
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ahaha this fuckin person.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 15:34 |
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Out of general curiosity, with the release of the new Next Generation Patlabor kit that's just come out, do you think there is any chance Bandai might decide to release a new version of the old-school AV-98 Ingram based off it?
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 18:33 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 20:20 |
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Out of general curiosity, with the release of the new Next Generation Patlabor kit that's just come out, do you think there is any chance Bandai might decide to release a new version of the old-school AV-98 Ingram based off it? With Bandai, who the hell really knows? Personal opinion though - probably not.
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# ? Sep 7, 2014 18:35 |