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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Shnooks posted:

I'm seeing a lot of websites saying they trace the pattern on a thicker piece of paper. I've never actually done that. Is it worthwhile?

I got a big roll of tracing paper from Dick Blick and use it to trace all my patterns. Makes it a lot easier to modify, grade, etc.

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Comrade Quack
Jun 6, 2006
Witty closing remarks have been replaced by massive head trauma and general stupidity.
I do it for patterns I'll reuse a bunch, vintage patterns, or when I need to modify.

Captain Blaargh
Apr 27, 2007

Yeah yeah yeah. How about some Scotch whiskey? You got any of that around here, or just a bunch of nonsense words?

Hello sewing thread. Dragged this beautiful thing out of family storage way out in the country, and am in the process of cleaning it up. Already removed most of the contents of a box of Prince elbow macaroni from its guts some long dead mouse packed in there for the cold Maine winters, and now all the parts move as they should. Hopefully soon it will be used for repairs and costuming projects.



In the meantime, do you folks know a good place to find parts for treadle machines? Miraculously most every part and accessory (I even have the machine oil soaked manual sans cover) from its obviously venerable history is there, but it is missing the front slide and the belt had dry rotted to tatters as those do. Any help would be appreciated.

I am the milkman
Oct 25, 2005
my milk is delicious

HodjasBitch posted:

That isn't a loose hoodie, an anorak is meant to be closer fitting.

Maybe, but I'd still prefer it to be on this end on the spectrum

as opppose to this, which what I currently have feels like.


HodjasBitch posted:

Judging from those shorts up there, I wouldn't have thought you'd mind something being on the fitted side.
:whatup:

Well there's a difference between butt enhancing and breath inhibiting :c00lbutt:

HodjasBitch posted:

Enlarging the neck opening on something with raglan sleeves is (for me) tricky because it's all the same circle. It should be simple in theory, but you also have a hood and a zipper to contend with.
Yeah, first I thought that I could just treat it as a circle and and a cm or two to the radius and call it a day, but it doesn't seam to work like that.
After borrowing a book on pattern cutting from the library I'm kinda starting to wrap my head around what adjustments need to be made and how. This poo poo is way harder than I thought it would be.

I am the milkman
Oct 25, 2005
my milk is delicious
Ok, so I think I'm starting to get somewhere with this.

First I decided not to use the hood from the pattern, instead I looked at the jackets I have and found a hood that I like.

tillflickr45-3310 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

Traced that hood.

tillflickr-3315 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

Then lowered the neckline in the front, making the length match the base of the hood.

tillflickr-3318 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

tillflickr-3319 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

I am the milkman fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Aug 7, 2014

Queen Elizatits
May 3, 2005

Haven't you heard?
MARATHONS ARE HARD
I post way too much about sergers in this thread sorry sorry.

I am finally going to go ahead and buy one though as a first step towards being a super serious business person. Is the Baby Lock Evolution still a very solid choice? The fact that it overlocks and cover stitches at the same time seems pretty fabulous.

And I swear I heard somewhere that Baby Lock was about to come out with a new serger but I can't find anything about that now, just a new embroidery machine. Anyone else heard anything or was I dreaming?

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Ok, will a serger let me sew knits and stretch fabrics without the nasty lettuce edge, or do I still have to bring some actual skill to the table? I can't obtain/maintain proper tension on my machine and no matter what I do, I can't get it right with knits and stretchy stuff.

Why don't people use the serger all the time? Is it just too much a pain in the rear end to thread, or is it just not suited to wovens or something?

wwjebusdo
Jan 1, 2009
Pain in the rear end to thread, mostly.

So I'm venturing into the world of making proper adjustments on the pattern rather than just pinching and resewing everything once it's made and this is giving me major anxiety. It also is making me reexamine how I view my body which I think might be...good?

Having exact measurements of every bit of me I thought should be measured is interesting but I don't know what I should do with some of it. Like, my right inseam is an inch longer than my left inseam. Should I bother adjusting for that with pants? If I use my bust or hip measurements I need to grade down two sizes for the waist and do something about the shoulders but if I use my upper bust measurement (generally recommended by the Internet) I have to grade up one size for the waist and three sizes for my hips and do a full bust adjustment. I haven't even begun to worry about swayback and prominent belly/bottom adjustments. Then there is stuff like despite having hourglass measurements, I look like an apple because all that girth is in my booty, not hips. If I only add width in the back pieces the pattern starts looking crazy.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a book that goes into serious detail about all this?

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

wwjebusdo posted:

Pain in the rear end to thread, mostly.

So I'm venturing into the world of making proper adjustments on the pattern rather than just pinching and resewing everything once it's made and this is giving me major anxiety. It also is making me reexamine how I view my body which I think might be...good?

Having exact measurements of every bit of me I thought should be measured is interesting but I don't know what I should do with some of it. Like, my right inseam is an inch longer than my left inseam. Should I bother adjusting for that with pants? If I use my bust or hip measurements I need to grade down two sizes for the waist and do something about the shoulders but if I use my upper bust measurement (generally recommended by the Internet) I have to grade up one size for the waist and three sizes for my hips and do a full bust adjustment. I haven't even begun to worry about swayback and prominent belly/bottom adjustments. Then there is stuff like despite having hourglass measurements, I look like an apple because all that girth is in my booty, not hips. If I only add width in the back pieces the pattern starts looking crazy.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a book that goes into serious detail about all this?

This one is one of the most popular. It has outdated pictures but is overall pretty useful. I actually need to find mine to he;p with this wedding dress I've been making.
http://www.amazon.com/Fit-Real-People-Clothes-Pattern/dp/0935278656

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I don't know if you knit, but there are a ton of resources there about this stuff. The obvious general rule is to make something that fits and flatters when it's being worn. It will probably look weird on a hanger, but who cares.

I am the milkman
Oct 25, 2005
my milk is delicious

NancyPants posted:

Ok, will a serger let me sew knits and stretch fabrics without the nasty lettuce edge, or do I still have to bring some actual skill to the table? I can't obtain/maintain proper tension on my machine and no matter what I do, I can't get it right with knits and stretchy stuff.

I recently got a cheap as poo poo walking foot from ebay and it turned out to be the best thing ever for sewing knits.


(link)

Finally I've been able to put some stuff together without it looking home made in the wrong sense of the word.

uncloudy day
Aug 4, 2010
I got ten yards yards of this heavyweight printed linen at value village for fifteen bucks.



Definitely something I could see in a 1970s kitchen until this folk art esque stuff fell out of style. One panel is about 24 in. wide. The print also repeats "a fully guaranteed vat print. 100% imported pure linen."

Anyone have any idea what kind of fabric (besides the fact that it's linen) I have here? Could it be valuable? I'm just curious before I go and use this to sew myself a lifetime supply of dishtowels.

zamiel
Nov 12, 2005

Pugs not drugs

Captain Blaargh posted:

Hello sewing thread. Dragged this beautiful thing out of family storage way out in the country, and am in the process of cleaning it up. Already removed most of the contents of a box of Prince elbow macaroni from its guts some long dead mouse packed in there for the cold Maine winters, and now all the parts move as they should. Hopefully soon it will be used for repairs and costuming projects.



In the meantime, do you folks know a good place to find parts for treadle machines? Miraculously most every part and accessory (I even have the machine oil soaked manual sans cover) from its obviously venerable history is there, but it is missing the front slide and the belt had dry rotted to tatters as those do. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello fellow treadle owner :) I'm hoping to get mine working by next summer. It's one of those "whenever I have the time and funds" projects. The nice thing about there being sort of a resurgence of interest in them is parts are out there, mostly cannibalized. For the belt, eBay of course has a ton of leather ones if you search Singer Treadle Belt. You'll have to check the diameter and length, but they're relatively inexpensive.

Bitter Beard
Sep 11, 2001

I don't even know what the fuck I'm doing!!

Queen Elizatits posted:

I post way too much about sergers in this thread sorry sorry.

I am finally going to go ahead and buy one though as a first step towards being a super serious business person. Is the Baby Lock Evolution still a very solid choice? The fact that it overlocks and cover stitches at the same time seems pretty fabulous.

And I swear I heard somewhere that Baby Lock was about to come out with a new serger but I can't find anything about that now, just a new embroidery machine. Anyone else heard anything or was I dreaming?

The Baby Lock Ovation? I didn't even have to lookup what you were talking about, we should go to Sewing Machines Anonymous together, I'll drive...

Pile of Kittens
Apr 23, 2005

Why does everything STILL smell like pussy?

I am the milkman posted:

I recently got a cheap as poo poo walking foot from ebay and it turned out to be the best thing ever for sewing knits.


(link)

Finally I've been able to put some stuff together without it looking home made in the wrong sense of the word.

Walking foots are the best, period. They are never worse for sewing anything. The only thing is that you have to adjust the height of the "gallop" for finer/heavier fabrics, but it's about as hard as adjusting feed dogs so if you're already doing that, it's not a problem.

Look who I got working! A quart of oil and some percussive therapy later, he's cycling like a gentleman. Needed a week to let the oil wick up into everything though... he's full of something similar in consistency and color to shoe polish and I expect I'll have to do a total teardown to really clean him out later.

SuzieMcAwesome
Jul 27, 2011

A lady should be two things, Classy and fabulous. Unfortunately, you my dear are neither.
I am needing to commission some one to make 5 adult vests and 1 child's vest for me for my wedding. I have asked around to several seamstresses but everyone I know is just to busy to get to them. Would anyone here be willing to do them? I have the pattern and I can order the fabric.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

SuzieMcAwesome posted:

I am needing to commission some one to make 5 adult vests and 1 child's vest for me for my wedding. I have asked around to several seamstresses but everyone I know is just to busy to get to them. Would anyone here be willing to do them? I have the pattern and I can order the fabric.

What pattern, fabric, and time frame are you looking at?

SuzieMcAwesome
Jul 27, 2011

A lady should be two things, Classy and fabulous. Unfortunately, you my dear are neither.
I bought this pattern


This is the look that I am going for, so whatever fabric is easiest to work with that creates this look


The wedding is October 18th. I would like to have them maybe 2 weeks before for any alterations that may need to be done.

SuzieMcAwesome fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Aug 11, 2014

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
taking this to PM

I am the milkman
Oct 25, 2005
my milk is delicious
Here, have some in-progress pics of my negroni shirt:


tillflickr45-3381 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

tillflickr45-3388 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

Queen Elizatits
May 3, 2005

Haven't you heard?
MARATHONS ARE HARD

Bitter Beard posted:

The Baby Lock Ovation? I didn't even have to lookup what you were talking about, we should go to Sewing Machines Anonymous together, I'll drive...

Maaaaaaan. I wonder how much that sucker runs for. Thank you for the name I'll be off watching the product videos now

MisterAlex
Dec 4, 2004

For Blood, Comic Mischief, Mature Humor, Nudity, Strong Language, Suggestive Themes, Use of Alcohol, and Intense Violence.

Online Interactions Not Rated.
Thanks a bunch for all the helpful links.
I haven't touched a sewing machine since Home Ec class, but I've been wanting to regain that particular skill. I'll probably look for some simple crafts to start off. I'll have to first re-familiarize myself with how to even set up and use a sewing machine. <=)

Marius Pontmercy
Apr 2, 2007

Liberte
Egalite
Beyonce
So even though I've been sewing kind of on an off for more than ten years, I am terrified of doing garments. I sewed a formal dress for a freshman dance with a lot of help and kind of gave up on doing a lot of garment sewing. Recently someone gave me some realtalk (also I watch a lot of Project Runway) and I want to get back into doing it, so when I saw this dress form at a garage sale for $10 this morning, I bought it.

This is Roberta with some expert draping going on. She's already scared the poo poo out of me twice walking through my sewing area.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


NancyPants posted:

Ok, will a serger let me sew knits and stretch fabrics without the nasty lettuce edge, or do I still have to bring some actual skill to the table? I can't obtain/maintain proper tension on my machine and no matter what I do, I can't get it right with knits and stretchy stuff.

Why don't people use the serger all the time? Is it just too much a pain in the rear end to thread, or is it just not suited to wovens or something?
1. Most stores that sell you a new sewing machine/serger will throw in free classes. If they don't, find another store that does. It's worth it.

2. Sergers will let you avoid that nasty lettuce edge, but you need to guide the fabric with a light touch. You also will need to adjust the differential feed on a scrap so that straight fabric in = straight fabric out.

3. Sergers do one thing very well: sew straight serged stitches fast. They can't reverse. They can't sew tight curves. They can't go slowly; the speeds are quick and oh-my-God. They don't offer you precise control unless you're very, very good. I wouldn't want to put together a chiffon blouse with a serger; I wouldn't want to make ten ruffled skirts without a serger. A good analogy would be that a sewing machine is a chef's knife, a serger a Cuisinart.

edit: That's a great find, uncloudy day. Old fabric is only valuable if there are collectors looking for it. Barkcloth is valuable; original feedbag material is valuable; fabric useful for dollmaking are valuable; vintage prints from the 1940s and earlier can be valuable, if they're prints reenactors covet. I'm not aware of there being an active market for 1970s domestic-decoration yardage. (I could be wrong, of course.) Go ahead and make something fabulous. To my eye, that's probably a curtain, teatowel, or upholstery fabric, although it could be a big splashy print for a caftan or similar.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Sep 18, 2014

Oracle
Oct 9, 2004

Anybody ever seen a changshan pattern anywhere? (No, not cheongsam, that's the female version, and yes there are tons of those, all very fitted with darts and all that would be hard to convert). Folkwear has the cheongsam but not the male equivalent.

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

Oracle posted:

Anybody ever seen a changshan pattern anywhere? (No, not cheongsam, that's the female version, and yes there are tons of those, all very fitted with darts and all that would be hard to convert). Folkwear has the cheongsam but not the male equivalent.

It looks like the folkwear pattern doesn't have darts. You could probably just make the sides straight down instead of flared and get the look you want.

Bitter Beard
Sep 11, 2001

I don't even know what the fuck I'm doing!!

Queen Elizatits posted:

Maaaaaaan. I wonder how much that sucker runs for. Thank you for the name I'll be off watching the product videos now

I called a local sewing shop and I believe in the 900 dollar range.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


I've (tried to) make the Folkwear cheongsam pattern. It makes no allowance at all for the existence of boobs. Furthermore, it is extremely difficult to redraft because of the construction of the bodice. Three generations of experienced seamstresses (my grandmom, my mom, and me) couldn't figure out how to make the drat thing fit.

I strongly recommend against that one.

Would a shu he be close enough? You might look around this site on hanfu.

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

Arsenic Lupin posted:

I've (tried to) make the Folkwear cheongsam pattern. It makes no allowance at all for the existence of boobs. Furthermore, it is extremely difficult to redraft because of the construction of the bodice. Three generations of experienced seamstresses (my grandmom, my mom, and me) couldn't figure out how to make the drat thing fit.

I strongly recommend against that one.

Would a shu he be close enough? You might look around this site on hanfu.

Sounds like Oracle doesn't want one for boobs.

Oracle
Oct 9, 2004

Yeah, I'm going to need to redraft it anyway since it's for a kids Halloween costume. I also need the Mandarin collar and wrap style top.
This is the closest I've been able to find online.

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

Oracle posted:

Yeah, I'm going to need to redraft it anyway since it's for a kids Halloween costume. I also need the Mandarin collar and wrap style top.
This is the closest I've been able to find online.

I would probably use that one. Maybe ask the blogger if they have a sleeve pattern drafted.

Oracle
Oct 9, 2004

Funhilde posted:

I would probably use that one. Maybe ask the blogger if they have a sleeve pattern drafted.

I know noone else probably cares but me but OH HELL YEAH. Sometimes I love cosplayers.

Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear
I've been making some boring practical things, and also some really bananas things.

Boring and Practical:

New jean jacket since I left mine on a bus in South Philly. Dark denim with a little stretch, grey stitching, silver jean stud buttons. I really should have used a thicker top stitch thread. Sleeves are a little big to accommodate sweaters in the winter. I made the shirt underneath too, it's just a short sleeve chambray shirt, nothing special.



Flannel shirt and chambray shirt. I've got my shirt pattern right where I like it, and I can crank them out pretty fast. I chain pieced these at the same time and got them both done in a few days.


Corduroy bomber style jacket. My welt pockets are still a little wobbly, but I'm happy with the rest of it. Wish it wasn't so bright, but $3 thrift store fabric is what it is.

I also finally got to use this ice dyed fabric from a few years back as the lining! This was my second attempt at a lined jacket, and I think I got most of the bugs worked out.

Getting Stranger:

Inspired by some Zam Barett pants I saw, I decide to try and make a J-Leg pant pattern, and see what happened. It was a pretty easy alteration, but it took tons of fabric to make.

They have a neat drapey effect on them though. Next time I would taper the ankle of them a little more. I also had a real brain fart when putting together the fly area, so I can really only wear them with longer shirts.

What are You Doing, Why:

Just bought a new serger, decided to test drive it with Y-seams and a million 1" diamonds, that sounds reasonable, right? Testing out some ideas I had for making quilt patterned work out/athletic gear.

Sorry about the bum pic. I didn't finish these as the pattern I was using is clearly ill fitting, and the colors are pretty awful (just used whatever 4-way stretch I had on hand) but I'm happy to see it's possible, and have some plans for a finished product in the future.

The other thing you should definitely do to get used to your new serger/acclimate yourself to working with spandex is a complicated multi-layer applique. Yep.


It's super imperfect, but I sure learned a lot through the process. And I have a rad Halloween costume now so it all works out. The ripples and warping mostly go away when it's on, at least:

If want to read about my really trial and error method of spandex applique, I wrote it up a bit on my tumblr.

Nicol Bolas
Feb 13, 2009
Hey Goldaline when are you going to open up an etsy shop so I can buy those diamond-pattern shorts? Because WOW I need those. Everything you've made is loving gorgeous but those SHORTS! I want that pattern on leggings and a top and EVERYTHING.

HELLO LADIES
Feb 15, 2008
:3 -$5 :3

Nicol Bolas posted:

Hey Goldaline when are you going to open up an etsy shop so I can buy those diamond-pattern shorts? Because WOW I need those. Everything you've made is loving gorgeous but those SHORTS! I want that pattern on leggings and a top and EVERYTHING.

I second all of this. Holy mother of crap let me give you all of my money, I need yoga quilt in my life.

venus de lmao
Apr 30, 2007

Call me "pixeltits"

Can you make quilted booty shorts for men? I suddenly feel the need to wear something ridiculous to the gym.

Goldaline
Dec 21, 2006

my dear

Nicol Bolas posted:

Hey Goldaline when are you going to open up an etsy shop so I can buy those diamond-pattern shorts? Because WOW I need those. Everything you've made is loving gorgeous but those SHORTS! I want that pattern on leggings and a top and EVERYTHING.

Haha, well first I need to actually make a real finished pair! I'm still learning my way around stretch fabrics and my work is pretty wobbly/messy so I wouldn't feel comfortable selling anything yet. But I do really want to get into making weird sportswear. If anything happens on the etsy front I'll be sure to post here. Right now I'm still in the experimentation stage.

Queen Elizatits
May 3, 2005

Haven't you heard?
MARATHONS ARE HARD

Goldaline posted:

Getting Stranger:

Inspired by some Zam Barett pants I saw, I decide to try and make a J-Leg pant pattern, and see what happened. It was a pretty easy alteration, but it took tons of fabric to make.

They have a neat drapey effect on them though. Next time I would taper the ankle of them a little more. I also had a real brain fart when putting together the fly area, so I can really only wear them with longer shirts.

I love everything but these pants are just killing me they are so great. Did you alter an existing pattern or draft the entire thing? And mind if I ask where you picked up the material from I haven't managed to find denim I like much online. Found the answer on your blog which BTW

EDIT cause I am reading your blog and you made BOOTS that is amazing you need to post so much more in here please

Queen Elizatits fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Oct 21, 2014

HodjasBitch
Apr 24, 2003

Too bad you revealed what a huge asshole you are so early in the game.....I woulda put out.
Fun Shoe
I love a good Goldaline post. It has been too long. :allears:

Everyone I know has been having babies, and they are all boys. I made quilts for five nephews 2 years ago, and now this. I'm dying to make something frilly and pink.



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Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



I'm making an assload of quilts for people for christmas and/or babies even though I'm still very new to quilting. I find piecing everything very zen and then I just do straight line quilting with my walking foot because :effort:

My first real quilt! I don't have a picture of it sans dog right now but I really like it even though I put the backing on upsidedown.


Modern-ish cat design blatantly stolen from the "Here Kitty,Kitty" line of fabrics. This is going to a friend of mine with soon.


This is the back and a better look at the bright purple binding that I love.


Modern Maples going to my parents when its done. I realized as I was piecing it that my dad is red/green colorblind. Oops.


Ohio stars baby quilt going to a friend if she ever pops out this baby of hers. I hosed up the seam allowances so the tips of the QSTs are cut off but I figure a baby won't notice.

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