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I got a microsoft mouse a while back and the mousewheel is a bit glitchy. Basically if I scroll up, sometimes it will go down instead. It's just a minor annoyance but definitely annoying. Is this a bad mouse or is it possibly a software thing that can be corrected? I don't have another mouse handy to narrow the problem down.
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Sep 1, 2014 00:14
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Schweinhund posted:I got a microsoft mouse a while back and the mousewheel is a bit glitchy. Basically if I scroll up, sometimes it will go down instead. It's just a minor annoyance but definitely annoying. Is this a bad mouse or is it possibly a software thing that can be corrected? I don't have another mouse handy to narrow the problem down. Open it up and check for dust in the optoencoder. If that doesn't work, and "a while back" is within a couple of years, Microsoft hardware warranties are very good. For mice, they'll usually follow the same "we'll ship you a replacement, just get rid of the old one yourself" policy that Logitech used to use before idiots took too much advantage of them.
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Sep 1, 2014 00:46
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BonoMan posted:I'm not quite sure if this is a hardware problem, but we have a network of about 40 computers here at work. And a new Windows 8.1 machine that, when plugged into the network and then rebooted (the machine), it takes down the entire network. However if the network is up and running fine and I plug in the Windows 8.1 machine (hardwired to a gigabit switch) after everything is up and running... then the network continues to run fine. Something on the bootup is causing the machine to gently caress up the entire network. Dude the thread ground to a halt. For real, learned something interesting dont apologize
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Sep 1, 2014 01:00
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Space Gopher posted:Open it up and check for dust in the optoencoder.
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Sep 1, 2014 15:34
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So I bought a WD RE 3TB disk and it shows up only as a 746GB disk. My mobo is Asus P6T Deluxe from 2008(?), and aprrarently the issue is that I have too old drivers despite running Windows 8.1. On device manager the ide controller is listed as Intel ICH10R SATA AHCI Controller, driver date 4.6.2009 and version 8.9.0.1023. Seems I need newer drivers (if any exist) which support the larger drives. Mobo and OS support should be OK. I have no idea what drivers to try though, Asus doesn't list any newer ones and finding anything from intel.com is a mystery. Intel's update utility gives no results, but there are many versions of rather new "Intel® Rapid Storage Technology (Intel® RST) RAID Driver" sets available. They have drivers for "Intel 5 series 6 Port SATA AHCI Controller", but I guess they are the wrong drivers and meant for the "Ibex Beak" chipsets or whatever listed here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_5_Series#Ibex_Peak.5B1.5D.5B2.5D Edit: I had to go deeper and try even older drivers! https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22194 included drivers for Intel ICH10R SATA AHCI Controller dated 19.11.2012, version 11.7.0.1013. Here's hoping they fix the issue. Intel really should list supported chipsets on the download pages. Edit2: The drivers worked and I got a nice fat 2794.39GB partition!  Who knows why the only way to get working drivers is to try to guess the right zip from a long long list of zips.
Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Sep 1, 2014 |
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Sep 1, 2014 16:39
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Ihmemies posted:So I bought a WD RE 3TB disk and it shows up only as a 746GB disk. My mobo is Asus P6T Deluxe from 2008(?), and aprrarently the issue is that I have too old drivers despite running Windows 8.1. You can use the latest RST software package without any trouble, and you probably should, because it's the latest version and all. They do provide the list of supported chipsets here, although it's a few clicks deep: http://www.intel.com/support/chipsets/imsm/sb/cs-020644.htm
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Sep 1, 2014 21:59
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The speaker grill on my ThinkPad T420 has come loose and has lifted off its adhesive pad except at the very top. What do I need to reattach it?
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Sep 2, 2014 01:53
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I booted up my old gaming pc for the first time in 4 months. It failed to boot twice and had to do a disk check. Now, it will freeze every few minutes for about 30 seconds. According to the activity monitor, the hard disk is completely unresponsive during those times. Am I right in assuming that this thing is about to die? tankadillo fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Sep 3, 2014 |
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Sep 3, 2014 03:00
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tankadillo posted:I booted up my old gaming pc for the first time in 4 months. It failed to boot twice and had to do a disk check. Now, it will freeze every few minutes for about 30 seconds. According to the activity monitor, the hard disk is completely unresponsive during those times. Absolutely yes, if you have anything you need off that drive you may want to try the old freezer trick with it in order to get a bit more time to pull things off.
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Sep 3, 2014 04:17
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It's amusing that people are still using the freezer trick. Whenever I told my friends with dead laptop drives who never kept backups, I'm like "honestly put it in a ziplock and stick it in the freezer, then use my SATA-USB adapter.." They're like "You're loving with me. This is serious!" It works! But only in the case where the head is crashing. In my experience modern HDDs die in far dumber ways. :/
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Sep 3, 2014 04:21
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Space Gopher posted:You can use the latest RST software package without any trouble, and you probably should, because it's the latest version and all. They do provide the list of supported chipsets here, although it's a few clicks deep: I tried newest, but Windows didn't automatically find new drivers from the zip and I could not manually find matching device from the "have disk" list either. All this assuming f6flpy-x64.zip is the right package  SetupRST.exe said "not a supported platform".My guess is they removed support for ICH10R at some point and did not bother to update the list..?
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Sep 3, 2014 09:59
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Ihmemies posted:I tried newest, but Windows didn't automatically find new drivers from the zip and I could not manually find matching device from the "have disk" list either. All this assuming f6flpy-x64.zip is the right package
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Sep 3, 2014 17:37
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Pivo posted:In my experience modern HDDs die in far dumber ways. :/
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Sep 3, 2014 18:31
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:How do they die? I haven't had a head crash or had a friend who has had a head crash in a long time. Usually it's some fuckup with the PCB, it just doesn't power up or if it powers up it doesn't mount. It's just anecdotal, I'm sure people who run server farms have had enough head crashes, but I just personally haven't encountered a hard drive where the freezer trick would work in a long, long time.
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Sep 3, 2014 18:39
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Pivo posted:It's amusing that people are still using the freezer trick. Whenever I told my friends with dead laptop drives who never kept backups, I'm like "honestly put it in a ziplock and stick it in the freezer, then use my SATA-USB adapter.." They're like "You're loving with me. This is serious!" Works for bad heads, bad solder, and a lot of other weird things. The old shop I worked at used it to great success - more so on older drives, but even more recent models it sometimes helps. We had a hole cut in the freezer top with a SATA cable leading to a test system so the drive could remain in the freezer while we sucked data off it - when it worked, it worked well.
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Sep 3, 2014 19:41
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Alereon posted:The F6 floppy package is for the Windows installer only. SetupRST should have worked, but if the motherboard BIOS hasn't been updated in forever then it may not be compatible. Well the latest few bioses are from 2010 and only changes listed are "support new CPU's". It depends on your definition of "forever". X58 is an old platform and it would not surprise me if Intel dropped support a few years ago.
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Sep 4, 2014 17:53
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I wonder if the people that design computer cases actually test if their ideas actually work or not. I have a Corsair 650D case and moved the drive chassis to the bottom position because you can't fit a decent front fan otherwise. Except that connecting SATA cabling results in gross abuse to said cables, because now they're bent like motherfuckers and I'm praying a Hail Mary that they stay in that position and connected. Jesus tapdancing Christ...
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Sep 4, 2014 18:05
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Maybe they assume you'll use those cables with 90 degree bent ends on the drive side.
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Sep 4, 2014 18:43
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Ihmemies posted:Well the latest few bioses are from 2010 and only changes listed are "support new CPU's". It depends on your definition of "forever". X58 is an old platform and it would not surprise me if Intel dropped support a few years ago.
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Sep 4, 2014 18:44
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I have a MSI GTX770 Twin Frozr 2GB card currently installed in my Fractal R4 windowed case, I noticed some GPU sag. Is it possible to have a custom back-plate made for it or should I try pulling it straight with the PCI-e power connectors.
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Sep 4, 2014 21:40
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It'll tolerate sag. Usually there's a plate under the heatsink to absorb most of the torque. Reinforcement is usually a premium feature - off the top of my head, EVGA makes metal backplates. A company had made anti-sag brackets in the past, but I can't find any reference to them now. Uh... PowerColor PowerJack? Really, this is not a huge issue, except for shipping the computer. When you do that, you generally want to remove any high-torque items like graphics cards and tower air coolers and pack them separately.
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Sep 5, 2014 01:02
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It should be relatively solid since the cooler is secured to the PCB at several points. You can always ziptie the PCI-E connectors a bit higher to hold it up if it bugs you, but there shouldn't really be enough droop to matter much. I didn't notice any sagging with my MSI 280X at any rate. Older aftermarket GPU coolers usually led to significant PCB sagging without modding since 4XXX and 8XXX cards were pretty long, but I can't really think of time when I've seen or read about any issues from it. future ghost fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Sep 5, 2014 |
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Sep 5, 2014 01:03
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Alternative, get a water bracked and mount the AIO on the top fan slot. Keeps my PCB as straight as an arrow, not that I really cared about the slight slag but bonus side effect
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Sep 5, 2014 15:39
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1gnoirents posted:Alternative, get a water bracked and mount the AIO on the top fan slot. Keeps my PCB as straight as an arrow, not that I really cared about the slight slag but bonus side effect  slightly-raise black metal bracket on my 6970 (with a cutout near the GPU/cooler mounting section) so when I installed the accelero cooler on it I just put the bracket back on with tiny black zipties & it's rigid as hell.
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Sep 5, 2014 18:47
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I just started using a Samsung 830 SSD I had sitting around. It had never been used before. SMART seems to be working, but the power on count and power on hours attributes seem to be frozen. Anyone have any idea what that's about?
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Sep 6, 2014 19:14
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DNova posted:I just started using a Samsung 830 SSD I had sitting around. It had never been used before. SMART seems to be working, but the power on count and power on hours attributes seem to be frozen. Anyone have any idea what that's about?
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Sep 6, 2014 22:05
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Alereon posted:They may only update on drive initialization, try shutting the system down and then rebooting it. Also update to the latest firmware. Thanks, but it turns out to be my mistake. It's keeping track correctly.
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Sep 7, 2014 06:46
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1gnoirents posted:Alternative, get a water bracked and mount the AIO on the top fan slot. Keeps my PCB as straight as an arrow, not that I really cared about the slight slag but bonus side effect Heh, I have a Raven 2 case from Silverstone where expansion cards hang vertically. No sag at all 
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Sep 7, 2014 07:24
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Is it that unusual for a brand spanking new Samsung 850 Pro to die in under a month? I just bought one last month, transferred my Hackintosh root partition to it, and that started Spotlight taking eternity to scan my system and returning bad path errors flooding my console. Then, just yesterday, it up and died, and only appears in the firmware setup menu long enough to load Clover, which then fails to boot from it. My Samsung 830, housing my Windows installation, and having hosted other poo poo over its history, is still going strong after 2 years.
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Sep 7, 2014 11:35
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kode54 posted:Is it that unusual for a brand spanking new Samsung 850 Pro to die in under a month? I just bought one last month, transferred my Hackintosh root partition to it, and that started Spotlight taking eternity to scan my system and returning bad path errors flooding my console. Then, just yesterday, it up and died, and only appears in the firmware setup menu long enough to load Clover, which then fails to boot from it.
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Sep 7, 2014 13:04
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Alereon posted:It's pretty unusual because of the low failure rates of Samsung drives, but even reliable hardware has some failures, and with the volume of drives Samsung sells some failures will definitely be seen. Measured failure rates are around 0.5%, but that still means five failures for every thousand drives. Anything I should try to verify it really is dead before I send it on? I'd try setting a port to allow hot swapping, since it tends to cease reporting itself as an attached drive within 30 seconds of powering on with it attached. Or maybe it's just that port?
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Sep 7, 2014 14:35
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http://i.imgur.com/EPbOp4A.png I've been experiencing HDD issues and found this in my SMART log. Very notable is the Calibration Retry Count. Is it telling me that I should replace my HDD?
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Sep 8, 2014 00:20
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I'd like to follow up and say it appears the ram was the culprit for my system taking a poo poo last week. I RMA'd what I had while on a work trip but bought some temporary ram today and was able to reinstall correctly. It weirded me out that memtest would pass on single sticks but not both together, leading me to think there was another issue possibly but as of right now it appears it was the ram. I wish I still had the ram to test bumping the voltage but the timing didn't work out
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Sep 8, 2014 00:45
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Titor posted:http://i.imgur.com/EPbOp4A.png E: Geemer is right the temperature is fine, all of my drives hold current temperature in C in the current column so I assumed that one did too. My bad! Alereon fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Sep 8, 2014 |
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Sep 8, 2014 00:54
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Alereon posted:Yes, though replace your SATA cable, run a memory diagnostic, and fix your case ventilation too. Your drive is running extremely hot, and the interface CRC errors mean either a problem on the SATA cable or system RAM. Yo, I know you're pretty much the authority on this. But the top of the image says 30°C, which I wouldn't call extremely hot. Some hard drives throw a whole buncha garbage into the temperature's data field. But I don't think it's actually that hot. Unless that weird dash isn't supposed to be a degree sign and rather some kind of rendering artifact of trying to render more than 2 characters into that field. A picture of my almost the same old hard drive with a huge garbage number in the temperature field: http://i.imgur.com/UMamZSr.png (UDMA CRC and hardware ECC errors in that picture are from when my old motherboard's SATA controllers were dying.)
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Sep 8, 2014 01:03
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Alereon posted:Yes, though replace your SATA cable, run a memory diagnostic, and fix your case ventilation too. Your drive is running extremely hot, and the interface CRC errors mean either a problem on the SATA cable or system RAM. Temperatures are completely fine; I keep my system ventilated enough and neatly internally organised. I replaced the Sata cable and did a memory diagnostic, issue still remains. My HDD often keeps spinning up and down while making a clicking noise when in use. I'm really gonna suspect I might have to replace it. Titor fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Sep 8, 2014 |
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Sep 8, 2014 08:06
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Hello, all. I recently swapped my hard drive into a new tower I got from my sister's business (only relevant in that I didn't build the system). Specs: Antec 1200 Case Corsair TX850W power supply Intel i7-920 CPU 12GB RAM 2x GeForce 9800 GTX+ with SLI I don't know the exact motherboard, probably not relevant to my questions. Question the first: The tower, as you can see in the picture in the link, has some  blue LED cooling fans, and lots of them. (The computer was used for video editing and graphics rendering, and ran continuously at high capacity as far as I know all the time). The big 200mm one on top has a switch to turn the lights off, the rest (5x 120mm) do not, and of those 5, 2 don't turn at all, 1 will eventually start spinning but only after like 10 minutes, and 1 spins but has horrific bearing noise (this box was also apparently never cleaned during its ~3 years of heavy use in a warehouse, it was dusty as gently caress when I got it). I want to replace all the fans with non-  ones (just so we're clear: no lights). What's a standard recommendation for reliable, quiet fans that won't break my wallet? (my current browsing-and-gaming use is presumably less stressful than what it was built for, so total cooling load is probably a non issue considering how many fans there are) I assume any brand would work, but if not let me know; it comes with antec-branded fans.Question B: Even with the current half-broken fans, the computer doesn't seem to be overheating, but it does seem to be putting out a lot more heat than my old Dell did; with the new tower and most games on even moderate graphics settings, after a few hours of operation my room is a good 5-10 degrees warmer than the rest of the house. Probably doesn't help that the A/C vent is right by my bedroom door while the computer is at the opposite corner, but I digress. Is it normal for a rig like this to be pumping out that much heat into the room? Question III: I'm occasionally getting strange graphical issues while playing games, most specifically War Thunder. Strange in that most of the time it's fine, but occasionally (I'm talking maybe one match out of 50) I'll have severe framerate slowdown, down into the teens, on water-heavy maps; the rest of the time it's fine, even on those same maps. This is my first computer with a dual-GPU setup, and I've heard some people have issues with those compared to a comparable single-card setup. Could the SLI thing cause inconsistent issues like that? Would I be better off saving up and getting a newer, single card to replace the two? Disclaimers: I've made sure I've got current drivers, turned settings down (makes no improvement when the issue is happening, doesn't hurt turning them up when it isn't), checked for unusual CPU/RAM usage (again, no correlation to the problem happening).
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Sep 11, 2014 03:41
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1. Honestly I'd strongly consider getting a good low-noise case that comes with fans preinstalled. A major downside of those high-performance towers is that the open air path also means there isn't even sheet metal between you and the fans inside the system. You wouldn't think <1mm sheet would make a difference, but it seriously reduces high-frequency noise, especially with a deadening layer installed. If you don't want to get a new case there isn't really much need for fancy fans, just get some cheap low-rpm (<1000rpm) ball bearing fans without LEDs of whatever size fits. B. Yes, that system is designed for maximum power inefficiency. The CPU isn't so bad, but each videocard puts out a lot of heat when idle and running in SLI defeats power-saving modes. I'd strongly recommend a single modern videocard for a huge performance and efficiency boost. A Geforce GTX 750 Ti would provide roughly equivalent performance and save 180W under load, or ~150W idle. Higher-end videocards provide less power savings under load but very similar power savings when idle. III. Yes, this is SLI combined with obsolete videocards without enough RAM. Bonus Edit: Upgrading to a higher-efficiency power supply would reduce heat and power usage, but probably not enough to be worth it. Your current power supply is 86% efficient, an 80+ Platinum model would be 92% efficient. Assuming a total system draw of ~400W under load, there's a 31W difference there. The difference would be substantially smaller if you replaced your SLI setup with a single card, and given that a new power supply costs ~$100, it's not worth it if you're not having power issues. Alereon fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 03:53
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Fucknag posted:Hello, all. I recently swapped my hard drive into a new tower I got from my sister's business (only relevant in that I didn't build the system). Nanoxia fans, or bitfenix spectre pros. Whatever is cheaper where you live. That being said, you can get a fabulous non ridiculous teenager case for under 100 dollars and you should consider the cost/benefit. It would certainly be quieter. No case needs that many fans. 9800gtxs are antique - they may not even be supported by current drivers. Sli causes problems with modern cards, it would have been worse back then. They also have a very limited amount of vram by current standards which holds them back considerably. A single gtx760 would improve your performance dramatically, with a considerable noise and heat reduction.
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Sep 11, 2014 03:53
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Thanks for the quick responses! -I'll probably just get new fans for now. My mom has one of the other towers, identical configuration but with non-hosed fans, and that's plenty quiet for me. Even if a new case would be a bit quieter, it's not important enough even for the extra $50 or whatever it would be. -drat I didn't realize the cards were that old, but they were released in July 2008; that's barely newer than my old computer. Said computer has an ATI 5750, which is a slightly newer design I believe, but I think it's on its last legs; Diablo 3 was running it at 100% load and overheating it, so not really worth it to just swap that in. I guess I'll save my pennies and get that newer card when I can, then. Good to know it's not just me overlooking something blindingly obvious.
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Sep 11, 2014 04:25
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