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Literally The Worst posted:I decided to cancel my Zeong order so I could throw a brown gundam marker in with it and it turns out that the addition of a marker was going to add literally a hundred dollars in shipping to my order. What the gently caress, Japan Huge items generally have a protective brown cardboard box perfectly fit to the real box. HMM Gojulas was that way. They arrive sealed so they wouldnt be adding the marker to the box short of taping it on. The next biggest size box is something like a coffin for a 10 year old
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Sep 11, 2014 07:23
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 09:30 |
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See that makes sense now. Whatever, ill just wait till I order Build Burning and Exia next month.
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Sep 11, 2014 07:24
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Literally The Worst posted:See that makes sense now. Whatever, ill just wait till I order Build Burning and Exia next month.  
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Sep 11, 2014 07:34
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Didn't you say the Gojulas was too big and went 'nope' on it? Neo Zeong is way bigger :P Good luck with that, please post your progress
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Sep 11, 2014 11:58
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Eirgen posted:Didn't you say the Gojulas was too big and went 'nope' on it? Neo Zeong is way bigger :P Definitely wasn't me. Zoids were my favorite thing growing up, there's no way I'd disparage a kit. And yeah, I'm documenting this thing as I go, including the receipt. BENGHAZI 2 fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 14:32
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So IIRC, the Nu version ka has chrome stickers to go underneath the bits of clear psychoframe to make them pop a bit, but the MG Unicorn doesn't have these. I haven't gotten my Nu yet, but my MG Turn A has this for its eyes and it works fairly well. Has anyone ever tried painting the backs of the psychoframe bits silver? If that doesn't work, would it be possible to just get a bit flat chrome sticker somewhere and cut it to fit on the backs of the parts?
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Sep 11, 2014 15:43
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I heard a lot of people doing something like that yes. I know I'm doing it for my HGUC Banshee, even if it is going to be handbrushing it's the backside anyway and would no doubt help a lot. (I'll just paint the puke-yellow gold though)
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Sep 11, 2014 15:45
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If I had to do it again I'd paint them. I did it for the gems on the Sengoku Astray and it looked great. Just make absolute sure it's dry or it'll get weird when pressure is applied. Also, paint the base piece, not the transparent one.
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Sep 11, 2014 15:46
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I've painted the backs of all my Unicorn kits' psychoframes silver, and it definitely makes a difference, especially with the green frame I have on my Banshee and Phenex. I originally straight built my green frame Banshee, but after taking it apart and doing the silver backing and giving it a gloss coat, the difference is night and day. Definitely worth doing if you want to make it pop.
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Sep 11, 2014 15:48
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Basically don't use foil stickers ever. I use Gundam Markers for them, which is kind of precisely what they were intended for. I like the chisel tips and hard points for really getting in there, and being alcohol soluble is a big plus.
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Sep 11, 2014 15:53
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I build about 1-2 hg's a week or a few sd's. My backlog buying has outstripped building though but I did just start pretty recently. Have 9 HG's built, 3 sd's and 4/4 of each in backlog, been at this for maybe 6 weeks.
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Sep 11, 2014 15:59
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I have gone from building an entire HG in one night to taking a week on one, just through adding in more vigorous sanding and paneling lining. I'm working on Turn A right now, and I might actually post a final shot of that; I think it looks pretty good. It needs more detailing work, though, before I'm done.
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Sep 11, 2014 16:48
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The Muffinlord posted:Also, paint the base piece, not the transparent one. This isn't an option on the MG Unicorn because back then Bandai hadn't realized you need to silver-back transparent pieces. Large chunks of the Unicorn frame are just clear pieces with nothing underneath, so all you can do is paint the insides.  And in some cases, like the backs of the legs, you can't do it at all. If you really want a Unicorn that pops, your best shot is honestly to just paint all over the pscyhoframe with some metallic shade.  On a related note, Armed Armors.
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Sep 11, 2014 16:50
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I've used tamiya silver with tamiya clear green and it's gotten me great results every time for gundam eyes and the like. You better drat well make sure everything's cured before putting pressure on it though.
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Sep 11, 2014 16:55
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Kurui Reiten posted:I have gone from building an entire HG in one night to taking a week on one, just through adding in more vigorous sanding and paneling lining. I'm working on Turn A right now, and I might actually post a final shot of that; I think it looks pretty good. It needs more detailing work, though, before I'm done. What method are you using to sand? I started with sand paper then went into sanding blocks and sanding sticks. Just switched from wet sanding with sand paper to wet sanding with sanding sticks. Now I check with a fingernail if an area is flush to stop after I sanded down some panel lines on my hg gouf ignited. Its pretty easy to sand off some details on hg kits, I figured when I move on to mg kits this will be harder to do with the bigger pieces.
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Sep 11, 2014 16:57
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Kinda crappy sanding sticks at 1200 grit that tend to run out faster than I anticipated. Probably switching to paper soon. The thing is, I try to sand down so the nub's level, even if it scuffs the surrounding plastic a little. I figure a flat coat'll make that look better in the end. What's taking more time is actually trying to eliminate the nub, as opposed to my previous goal being to just make it non-obvious. Looking back at my older models made me go "Wow, I was terrible at nubs", and now I wanna get rid of them.
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Sep 11, 2014 18:19
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Kurui Reiten posted:Kinda crappy sanding sticks at 1200 grit that tend to run out faster than I anticipated. Probably switching to paper soon. The thing is, I try to sand down so the nub's level, even if it scuffs the surrounding plastic a little. I figure a flat coat'll make that look better in the end. What's taking more time is actually trying to eliminate the nub, as opposed to my previous goal being to just make it non-obvious. Looking back at my older models made me go "Wow, I was terrible at nubs", and now I wanna get rid of them. Yeah, me too. Some of them even have nubs visibly coming off about a milimeter because I just got them with nippers rather than sanding or using an xacto. My Char's Zaku as a bunch of these on his tubes. 
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Sep 11, 2014 18:24
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Gammatron 64 posted:Yeah, me too. Some of them even have nubs visibly coming off about a milimeter because I just got them with nippers rather than sanding or using an xacto. My Char's Zaku as a bunch of these on his tubes. gently caress those little tube sections. I swear I sand off more of my finger tips than plastic cleaning those up. 
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Sep 11, 2014 18:32
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:gently caress those little tube sections. I swear I sand off more of my finger tips than plastic cleaning those up. This is the price for thinking that monoeye MS are way cooler than Gundams. The loving tubes. I can't help it, guys. Evil robot cyclops space germans just look really awesome. Bad guys are just cooler. 
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Sep 11, 2014 18:48
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This weekend when I get some more tools the big thing I want is an exacto, so I can trim nubs down a little better. Nobody I know knows anything about Gunpla, so as long as it looks good, it's fine. I don't need it to be perfectly smooth. Like right now even knowing where i missed nubs on the MG Build Strike FP I can't pick them out just from looking at it.
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Sep 11, 2014 19:23
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Kurui Reiten posted:Kinda crappy sanding sticks at 1200 grit that tend to run out faster than I anticipated. Probably switching to paper soon. The thing is, I try to sand down so the nub's level, even if it scuffs the surrounding plastic a little. I figure a flat coat'll make that look better in the end. What's taking more time is actually trying to eliminate the nub, as opposed to my previous goal being to just make it non-obvious. Looking back at my older models made me go "Wow, I was terrible at nubs", and now I wanna get rid of them. From what I have read is that getting rid of the small white stress marks are pretty much impossible without painting. So my goal is just to get the area of the nub flush with the least about of plastic lost due to nub removal/fixin. I have found starting with a coarse grit sanding to do the bulk of the work and then move up grits to polish out the scratches saves some paper. Wet sanding keeps the plastic dust off the parts and cleans the grit for less clogged problems. I don't know what is the difference from sanding paper to sanding sticks but my sand paper grit dies super fast after 3-4 nubs. While the coarse sanding stick is lasting forever, but I have no clue what grit it is because it only have coarse written on it. Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 19:29
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You guys shouldn't be using that high of a grit of sandpaper/sanding sticks for nub removal. Anything over 1000 is for polishing an area that is already nub free. I typically use a hobby knife, or a metal file to get the nub nearly flush, and then use coarser sandpaper to remove the rest of it, and polish the area with high grit sandpaper. Once you're using the high grit sandpaper, the nub should already be gone, otherwise you're going to wear out your sandpaper super fast. For reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyzqjTesJ-Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJmPRnelZAY
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Sep 11, 2014 19:38
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I practically don't even use hobby knives anymore. Using a needle file + sandpaper takes longer than slashing them off with your x-acto but I don't accidentally cut divots out of my parts (or fingers). And the little white discolored bits aren't even there. Put on some flat coat and it's hard to notice them.
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Sep 11, 2014 19:42
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Gammatron 64 posted:I practically don't even use hobby knives anymore. Using a needle file + sandpaper takes longer than slashing them off with your x-acto but I don't accidentally cut divots out of my parts (or fingers). And the little white discolored bits aren't even there. Put on some flat coat and it's hard to notice them. I usually only use the hobby knife when cutting the clear parts of kits, so that I don't scratch them at all since they don't get a flat coat.
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Sep 11, 2014 19:46
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peeNamaste posted:You guys shouldn't be using that high of a grit of sandpaper/sanding sticks for nub removal. Anything over 1000 is for polishing an area that is already nub free. I don't know what you're using, but even at 1200 grit I can look at the area I sanded and go "Yep, that was sanded". Like, it looks clearly and noticeably different than unsanded areas. To me, nub removal means "I can't even really tell it was there", and I still haven't reached that point. Sure, I could paint over it; but I have no proper set up for paint anywhere, so, that's not simple. Nubs would be so much easier if they attached the piece to the sprue via the typical pegs/sockets on the underside of each armor piece. I don't mean undergated, because that's just harder than normal. I mean actually attached to the pegs/sockets that get hidden inside each other. That would probably make packaging a bitch and use more plastic, though. Still, completely hidden nubs would be so nice. Kurui Reiten fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 19:57
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If you want to really get those sanded areas looking nearly the same as the unsanded ones you can try wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper.
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Sep 11, 2014 20:25
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peeNamaste posted:I usually only use the hobby knife when cutting the clear parts of kits, so that I don't scratch them at all since they don't get a flat coat. Yeah the nubs are going to be bad on clear or chrome parts no matter what. Luckily most kits seem to cover the nubs on clear bits.
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Sep 11, 2014 20:26
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Kurui Reiten posted:I don't know what you're using, but even at 1200 grit I can look at the area I sanded and go "Yep, that was sanded". And if you were using something heavier like 400/800, you can look at the area you sanded and go "Yep, that sure was a hell of a lot faster." EDIT: Also if you just want to get rid of the discoloration spray a flat coat. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 20:36
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Kurui Reiten posted:I don't know what you're using, but even at 1200 grit I can look at the area I sanded and go "Yep, that was sanded". Like, it looks clearly and noticeably different than unsanded areas. To me, nub removal means "I can't even really tell it was there", and I still haven't reached that point. Sure, I could paint over it; but I have no proper set up for paint anywhere, so, that's not simple. Are you cleaning up the dust left on from sanding? After a wipe with a wet paper towel with anything higher then 800 grit for me starts to shine again. HG 00 Raiser kit covers pegs and seams insanely well.
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Sep 11, 2014 20:36
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Kurui Reiten posted:Kinda crappy sanding sticks at 1200 grit that tend to run out faster than I anticipated. Probably switching to paper soon. The thing is, I try to sand down so the nub's level, even if it scuffs the surrounding plastic a little. I figure a flat coat'll make that look better in the end. What's taking more time is actually trying to eliminate the nub, as opposed to my previous goal being to just make it non-obvious. Looking back at my older models made me go "Wow, I was terrible at nubs", and now I wanna get rid of them. You can go through sanding sticks quickly, which is why you should make your own! Sandpaper + popsicle sticks + super glue = stupid amount of cheap sanding sticks. And yeah, anything over 800 grit is polishing. Start at a low grit, like 320 or 400, and work your way up. 400/600/800 is usually a good progression. If you want to sand out stress marks, you're going to have to really get up there in grit. If you're not going to paint, your best bet is probably o get some really good sharp side cutters that can cut through nubs nearly flush with the part and not leave stress marks on the surrounding plastic while doing it.
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Sep 11, 2014 20:51
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This is why I'm glad I paint because those scratches drive me nuts and primer covers the scratches 
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Sep 11, 2014 20:51
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Also look at the shape of your nubs and try to always cut from and angle that will minimize the amount of plastic you are cutting through, if you have a rectangular nub like this: [] You want to cut inwards from the sides, not from the top and bottom, this minimizes compression of the plastic in the middle and therefore minimizes stress marks.
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Sep 11, 2014 21:30
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I have an airbrush and hella paint. I'm gonna fuckin airbrush a gundam. Protips? Should I assemble the skeleton before spraying? How should I go about applying varnish? Do I need to sand edges? This is my first gunpla
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Sep 11, 2014 22:27
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Slap it together however you feel like. Make an abstract sculpture out of it.
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Sep 11, 2014 22:33
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Oh god I wish I didn't love the ZZ so much because this MG is the worst poo poo.
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Sep 12, 2014 00:20
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Dirty Deeds Done posted:Oh god I wish I didn't love the ZZ so much because this MG is the worst poo poo. I'm fairly certain the design intent behind the ZZ on Tomino's end was "Make it as hideously complex as possible to gently caress over Bandai's plamo division."
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Sep 12, 2014 00:24
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How's the transformation on the ReZEL? I saw the one with the huge missile packs and poo poo on Amazon the other day and I love the color scheme.
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Sep 12, 2014 00:30
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MG FA ZZ held the record for highest parts count (well, if you count the unused stuff) until FA Unicorn. It still holds the title for most complicated construction too, though you could argue Victory vKa gives it a run for its money.The Muffinlord posted:How's the transformation on the ReZEL? I saw the one with the huge missile packs and poo poo on Amazon the other day and I love the color scheme. The end result looks different, but it's still the Zeta's complex as gently caress transformation.
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Sep 12, 2014 00:42
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Do you guys mix your colors to match the guide that comes with models? How easy/hard is it to get the colors to match?
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Sep 12, 2014 00:55
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 09:30 |
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How is the MG FA Unicorn anyway? It caught my eye as something I want to do after I get done with the Zeong and my little diorama and maybe the 00 Gundams.
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Sep 12, 2014 01:05
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