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So I'm putting a new bumper cover on the Miata and need to move the badge from the old one to the new one. I assume hair dryer + adhesive remover + floss for removal, but what about reapplication? How do I stick this sucker back on, and most importantly, do it straight and centered?
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Sep 13, 2014 18:30
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dupersaurus posted:What products would I need to do this? Get some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and a couple microfiber rags. Put it on the rag. Rub until the mark goes away. If the mark doesn't go away with that, use a Magic Eraser and the mark will probably come right off, then Ultimate Compound. After either of those, wax and go away happy. blk posted:So I'm putting a new bumper cover on the Miata and need to move the badge from the old one to the new one. I assume hair dryer + adhesive remover + floss for removal, but what about reapplication? How do I stick this sucker back on, and most importantly, do it straight and centered? Which badge? The two on the rear are easy because they are large, mostly rectangular pieces. The front should only have the one in the center if it's a newer NA, yeah, warm up with a hair dryer and use floss. Shouldn't even need adhesive remover. Get some 3M emblem tape, cut to size, put on and apply straight. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Sep 13, 2014 |
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Sep 13, 2014 19:03
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Get some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and a couple microfiber rags. Put it on the rag. Rub until the mark goes away. If the mark doesn't go away with that, use a Magic Eraser and the mark will probably come right off, then Ultimate Compound. After either of those, wax and go away happy. Having been to the Meguiar's forums this week, I feel the need to reiterate clean microfiber rags on a clean panel and following the package directions. Used correctly, Ultimate Compound is amazing stuff. Used like idiots on the internet use it, it's amazing in a completely different way.
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Sep 13, 2014 19:23
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blk posted:So I'm putting a new bumper cover on the Miata and need to move the badge from the old one to the new one. I assume hair dryer + adhesive remover + floss for removal, but what about reapplication? How do I stick this sucker back on, and most importantly, do it straight and centered? There are two alignment holes and there's adhesive on the backside of the front emblem.
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Sep 13, 2014 19:25
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Molten Llama posted:Used correctly, Ultimate Compound is amazing stuff. Used like idiots on the internet use it, it's amazing in a completely different way.  and a one-stage product you can't go far wrong.Phone posted:There are two alignment holes and there's adhesive on the backside of the front emblem. 
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Sep 13, 2014 19:34
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Anyone have a recommended method of getting dealer decals off a car? I just purchased a used car that had the standard dealer text on the back, as well as some pointless stripes going across the body.
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Sep 13, 2014 19:52
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If it's a recent one (i.e. from the dealer you bought it from), you may be able to peel it off easily. If not, it could need warming up with a hairdryer/heatgun and still come off in a million pieces. On glass, a razor or stanley blade can help, but watch for your heater on the rear screen. Also, if they've been on the body panels a while, the paint colour underneath may be noticeably different to the surrounding area, and need the panel compounded to blend it all together.
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Sep 13, 2014 19:58
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Thanks for the info, the rear decal is on the paint, but was in the dealers possession a very short time (I drove off with it an hour after it was serviced by them). The other decals must have been a previous owner, maybe I'll leave them on until I get a DA polisher if there could be complications.
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Sep 13, 2014 20:25
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Unless it's a car over 10 years old, say, or in a very sunny locale, it's not likely to be bad enough to not be fixable by hand.
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Sep 13, 2014 20:35
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InitialDave posted:If you don't have any wax etc at all, Meguiar's Cleaner Wax is a reasonable all-in-one product. Nowhere near as good as the Ultimate Compound followed by the wax, but for Echoing this. After my road tar cleanup with WD-40, I was lazy and hit the affected areas with Cleaner Wax (mostly because I had half a dozen of those little bottles that get included in Meguiar's claybar kits and wanted to get rid of them). That stuff did a pretty incredible job taking the last of the tar that the WD-40 and the subsequent wash missed.
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Sep 13, 2014 20:41
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InitialDave posted:Unless it's a car over 10 years old, say, or in a very sunny locale, it's not likely to be bad enough to not be fixable by hand. Ah good to know, yeah only a 2010. Would using a claybar to get it off be a good idea after heating it up a bit?
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Sep 13, 2014 20:48
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MrChips posted:Echoing this. After my road tar cleanup with WD-40, I was lazy and hit the affected areas with Cleaner Wax (mostly because I had half a dozen of those little bottles that get included in Meguiar's claybar kits and wanted to get rid of them). That stuff did a pretty incredible job taking the last of the tar that the WD-40 and the subsequent wash missed. Meguiars Cleaner Wax is definitely a good thing to have on the shelf. I use it for wheels, put it on heavy on the barrels and it does a good job with removing tar and brake dust build-up.
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Sep 13, 2014 21:11
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Full Circle posted:Ah good to know, yeah only a 2010. Would using a claybar to get it off be a good idea after heating it up a bit? A clay bar is meant for pulling out detritus that is embeded into the surface of the paint, but with removing an old sticker, you're more likely to be dealing with adhesive residue and perhaps a very fine line of dirt around the edge, which has escaped the normal car cleaning regime. This will mostly be on the paint. I would try and just get the edge started with a fingernail, and see if it wants to come off in a nice run. If not, warm it with the aformentioned heat source, and see if that improves things. It may still only let you peel off a small bit before breaking up, but persevere. Just sit there on a stool with a beer and take your time. Once the sticker is off, you need to clean off what it's left behind. If you're needing to wash the car anyway, go right ahead, and see what it gets off that way, but I can almost guarantee it will still have something there. A mild solvent of some kind and a soft cloth will help get the old adhesive etc shifted. Lighter fluid, meths, bug and tar remover, I have a habit of just grabbing what's to hand and using that. Anything you use will also remove any existing wax protection, but you'll put that back on later anyway. Just get off any obvious stuck-on gunk, the kind your fingernail easily hooks onto. Then you want to give the area you've worked a clean/compound to sort out any inconsistent sun fading and the like. Any compound or cleaner is likely ok, I always like Meguiar's stuff (as you can see from my other post), but there are plenty out there. Seeing as it's a new car, I say, what the hell, do the whole thing. Get one of the Meguiar's clay kits that MrChips alluded to above, and once you've removed the sticker and any old glue, claybar the car and use the cleaner wax included with the kit. Don't bother using the detailing spray in the kit for clay lube, just use water, save the spray to use as an actual detailing spray.
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Sep 13, 2014 21:20
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Anyone know how to get asphalt off plastic trim? Only thing that seems to work is a razor blade
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Sep 18, 2014 22:45
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divx posted:Anyone know how to get asphalt off plastic trim? Only thing that seems to work is a razor blade Patience and bug-and-tar remover saturation.
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Sep 18, 2014 22:59
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Finally got around to doing a non-black car: 2006 Honda Accord in G-G-G-GOLD    Final product:  The paint was only spotty in a few areas, so I only had to hit the hood, roof, bumper cover, and trunk with a yellow pad + UC. Everything else got hit with a green pad and Menzerna PF2500 and Power Lock. The hood also got hit with a blue pad and SF4500. Only took 8 hours for: 2 washes w/ Dawn, claying, taping everything off, hitting the bad spots with Ultimate Compound, polishing the entire car, and sealing it. I'm getting better at this.
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Sep 22, 2014 02:14
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What was the wheel cleaner that's been posted here multiple times and does wonders on brake dust? I thought it was Sonus' Rim Bright, but it's been a while since I read about it.
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Sep 22, 2014 06:47
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SONAX Full Effect.Chinatown posted:So I bought a bottle of Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner after hearing about it online and god drat is this poo poo amazing.
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Sep 22, 2014 06:49
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Phone posted:Finally got around to doing a non-black car: 2006 Honda Accord in G-G-G-GOLD Oh man, that had to feel good.
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Sep 22, 2014 10:04
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meatpimp posted:Oh man, that had to feel good. Both of those spots were like 2 seconds with UC. It really does do everything. 
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Sep 22, 2014 13:02
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Chinatown posted:SONAX Full Effect. Thanks! I just ordered a bottle off of amazon, I have high hopes for it.
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Sep 22, 2014 16:17
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MomJeans420 posted:Thanks! I just ordered a bottle off of amazon, I have high hopes for it. Gonna post this again because I'm proud of it. Sonax turns red when it comes in contact with brake dust. My wife's car had a stuck caliper. 
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Sep 22, 2014 16:47
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Sonax actually has an updated version of their wheel cleaner out now. Wheel cleaner plus. By all accounts, it bests Full Effect by a good bit. I picked some up, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet.
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Sep 22, 2014 17:42
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What's a good wheel cleaner I can get in the UK? I'm sure the thick caked on deposits of grime and brake dust are actually sending my wheels out of balance.
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Sep 22, 2014 20:22
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Lightning deal on Amazon -- a bit over 2 hours left: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UW1IQU Porter Cable Detailing Kit What's Included Porter Cable 7424XP Variable Speed Polisher Counter Weight Wrench Backing Plate 5 Hex-Logic Pads Pad Cleaner Pad Conditioner 2 Microfiber Towels Clip the coupon on the page for an additional $20 off, taking the price to $165. That's a pretty good deal with the extras, and the Chemical Brothers hex pads are really nice.
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Sep 24, 2014 16:32
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Is that a good deal if I have everything else detailing related? (claybar, SONAX, microfibers, 303, etc). I'm needing to polish this and am looking to start with good hardware I can keep for years.
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Sep 24, 2014 17:03
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DJ Commie posted:Is that a good deal if I have everything else detailing related? (claybar, SONAX, microfibers, 303, etc). I'm needing to polish this and am looking to start with good hardware I can keep for years. The polisher is $109 at Amazon, plus the backing wheel is another $15. That means you'd be paying about $40 for 5 pads and the spray cleaner and conditioner. I haven't used the conditioner, but I can vouch for the cleaner -- I've used a white pad of theirs 5 times and it still looks new after using the cleaner. If you're going to be getting a polisher, this is a good kit at a good price. And you'll need every bit of it to bring back that red. It's doable, though, look up my MR2 project, it looked just as bad and shined up beautifully.
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Sep 24, 2014 17:10
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I've wanted a polisher but have been wary of the accessories and compounds needed, this about solves it.
DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Sep 24, 2014 |
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Sep 24, 2014 17:21
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DJ Commie posted:I've wanted a polisher but have been wary of the accessories and compounds needed, this about solves it. Get this kit, some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and your choice of polish and you'll be in fine shape to start. I'll vouch for the quality of the accessories with that kit. Your paint may need something more aggressive than UC to start. I'd suggest doing what I did to the MR2, its paint was absolutely dry as hell, so I slathered on Meguiars Hand Polish and just let it sit for a couple days. I think that put some moisture into my paint that allowed it to polish up without a huge amount of work or any further damage.
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Sep 24, 2014 18:14
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Tried out the new DA polisher I ordered. It does absolutely wonderful things to paint, finally got all the swirls out of the bonnet, glazed, and sealed it. Wonderfully easy to use, and does a superb job.   And then immediately afterwards a nearby forest fire dumped a huge amount of ash on it. At least it looked good for a day.
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Sep 25, 2014 02:58
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That top you have is siiiiiiiiiiicckkkkkkkkkkkkkkk.
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Sep 25, 2014 03:07
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bull3964 posted:Sonax actually has an updated version of their wheel cleaner out now. Wheel cleaner plus. By all accounts, it bests Full Effect by a good bit. I picked some up, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet. I am blown away by this stuff. Completely clean wheels, literally spray on and then hose off after a few minutes. I figured I would have finish it off with a cloth like iI do with griots wheel cleaner.
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Sep 27, 2014 16:36
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I came in here to ask about a nuclear option for the front wheels on my BMW since after about 20 minutes with a couple (crappy?) products I still have a lot of brake dust on them. I'm going to order some of that SONAX stuff and try it out next weekend. I'll be doing my brakes so I'll have the wheels off the car anyway so will be able to hit the insides as well. I'll take some pictures and post them here. e: SlimManFat posted:I've been detailing my own cars/cars for friends for years, but never really went in-depth into glass. Beyond claybaring and a tube of Canadian Tire glass polish, does anyone have any insight into it? I'm looking for a nice detailed article or video or something.  about detailing, and his other videos are pretty good too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVUtdlzrktI GentlemanofLeisure fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Sep 29, 2014 |
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Sep 28, 2014 21:54
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Chalk another (mostly) victory to Ultimate Compound. Now about windows: I've been trying to clean the inside windows (particularly the windshield), and I'm having trouble finding something. I've tried windex and some wipes, but it seems like I'm only pushing the gunk around. I'm not a smoker so it's all just natural accumulation.
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Sep 30, 2014 23:14
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dupersaurus posted:Chalk another (mostly) victory to Ultimate Compound. Now about windows: I've been trying to clean the inside windows (particularly the windshield), and I'm having trouble finding something. I've tried windex and some wipes, but it seems like I'm only pushing the gunk around. I'm not a smoker so it's all just natural accumulation. Stoner's Invisible Glass. Or white vinegar.
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Oct 1, 2014 01:22
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BoyBlunder posted:Stoner's Invisible Glass. +1 for Stoner's. Use newspaper instead of a paper towel / microfiber and your windows will be glistening.
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Oct 1, 2014 02:20
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Ooo0o0o I am gonna try that newspaper trick. Thats pro.
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Oct 1, 2014 02:22
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Yeah it works amazing, just make sure to crumple it up and it'll scrub up anything and dry without any streaks. And it's free.
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Oct 1, 2014 02:46
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:I was reading back through the thread and saw this. Hopefully you've cleaned your glass by now, but here's a pretty great video from Larry Kosilla of AMMO NYC featured on Drive Clean on Youtube. He's pretty I just spent way too much time watching this guy's videos, somehow he makes it seem reasonable to go buy a glass polishing pad for my porter cable and spend an hour cleaning my windshield. Definitely
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Oct 1, 2014 16:48
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Which of these should I get? http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=sonax+wheel&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Asonax+wheel E: the wheel cleaners.
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Oct 2, 2014 20:37
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